Making PC Engine HuCards

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pdco_arcade:
Found on PCBWay site their specification for copper pull back from a non-plated hole is >0.2mm. I had only about 0.1mm. So have increased the hole diameter in the bottom copper for the 2 alignment holes. That is ready as Rev C.

Any other suggestions for changes? If not I can post Rev C.

pdco_arcade:
Having heard nothing negative ( or positive ) I am assuming the files are perfect :)

Attached here are the Rev C versions. Only change is to open the copper pull back around the 2 new holes for alignment posts to be used when fastening the 2 PCB together.

Again give it all a good review before using them for PCB order. And go low expense first.

****

How do the cards operate ( this version and the other ) ? I like the game connector layout in the other version. Specifically some of the contacts are staggered compared to the majority of others. Looks like this is how the real HuCard's are fabricated. I think so the +v and gnd contacts make first when plugging a card, then the remainder make contact. But other flash cards use the same layout of of the attached card. Not sure it matters if the cards are always inserted with the game console power OFF.

About the other style card - is the EPROM size select feature really needed? I mean will either the 1MiB or 512 KiB EPROM be used or only the 1MiB seen in the pictures?

pbj:
I ordered 10 of your previous revision boards earlier this week. They’re in the mail.

I still need to hash out the rom vs jumper situation. I think it’s like Genesis where the rom doesn’t care so long as the system addresses it correctly. From the other pcb, it seems like 512Kb roms will work on a 512Kb or 1024Kb chip so long as it’s jumpered to either 4 or 8Mb. The true test of your board will be the handful of 1024Kb roms. I haven’t searched too hard but I’m still unsure which 256Kb chips work with this thing. At 90 cents each for 512Kb chips, I don’t particularly care, either.

I have 9 legitimate HuCards and 1 bootleg Everdrive. The contact situation seems to vary. I’m not sure the original PC Engine had the physical lockout to prevent you from inserting or removing cards with the power on.

The boards I had printed from the Aussicade files are such a pain in the ass to use that I’m about to scrap all of them.

Anyway, stay tuned… I will know more soon…

In other news, I’ve been playing around with artwork for those 3D printed HuCard trays shoved into CD jewel cases. I’m really happy with the look:

I also beat Splatterhouse this evening.

I also discovered that contemporaneous bootlegs using EPROMs were sold in cassette cases.

:lol

pdco_arcade:
So is the z-team design with the EPROM size selection jumpers the preferred design? Maybe I should have updated that design instead of the aussirarcade design?

pdco_arcade:
Attached is updated version of the z-team design for review. This design has the EPROM select size jumpers. Added the pads to surface mount the EPROM, 2 new holes for pcb alignment during assembly, what else ?.

Had to perform a lot more work on this design re-routing traces to make room for the extra pads. I think it all is correct however I will give it more review in the next few days. Look it over well before spending money.
Opinions welcome.

This PCB layout is a bit backwards compared to 'normal' ( to me anyway ) . The component side is listed as the bottom while the solder side is the top. Also found a few problems ( I think ) with the original files and fixed them. An example is in the original PCB files the locations for the EPROM size select jumpers do not have pads in the top copper ( side away from the mounted EPROM ). In the pictures looks like there is some copper present at those locations. I guess the PCB fab house added them. They do not like having plated through holes with no annular rings on the top & bottom copper layers as minimum.

What's next? Need to investigate that USB flashable HuCard design. The flash chips are only 1mm thick. The EPROM chips ( 5mm thick ) look like albatrosses now.

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