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Author Topic: U-HID and Ultrastik 360 analog?  (Read 436 times)

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Kelduum

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U-HID and Ultrastik 360 analog?
« on: September 15, 2023, 08:30:33 pm »
Hi all, long time lurker but first time poster...

I'm very likely doing something stupid here, but I'd welcome any input.

I'm in the process of building an arcade cab to work with a range of different things, notably Windows, Linux and MiSTer style setups, and attempting to replicate something along the lines of the typical modern console controller, with two analog sticks, two analog triggers and a load of buttons, all on one device, with things being reconfigured and indicators on sticks/buttons/etc lighting up dependent on the actual game running.
 
For now, I've picked up a U-HID and Ultrastik 360 (the idea being that I should be able to reconfigure them on the fly), but I'm having trouble getting both of the analog X and Y axes working as I'd expect.

I've hooked up the relevant 'raw analog' pins on the Ultrastik to J6 on the U-HID, configured them as analog (and configured the digital pins as well, and tweaked the offset and scale, but one axis (specifically X axis on the stick, but its the same if i swap it ) has very little difference between min and max deflection, and turning up the 'gain' makes it incredibly noisy and then seems to influence the other axis.

Similarly, the digital stick outputs don't seem to do anything on the pins with the U-HID, so I don't know if they're not being detected correctly or the stick is falling into the wrong mode?

With the stick plugged in via USB, that works as expected, and Windows is seeing the normal (expected) output, but I suspect im doing something stupid...

Any suggestions?

PL1

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Re: U-HID and Ultrastik 360 analog?
« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2023, 11:50:50 pm »
one axis (specifically X axis on the stick, but its the same if i swap it ) has very little difference between min and max deflection
Are you seeing this in Windows or MAME?

    Windows - Have you run a calibration for the analog stick via Control Panel?

    MAME - Have you reduced the deadzone?
                   For 270 wheels, set the joystick deadzone to .05 in the mame.ini file;
                 the default .3 means that you have to turn the wheel fairly far before it does anything.
                 Joystick saturation narrows the operating range of your wheel, i.e. you only have to
                 turn it halfway before MAME sees it as being turned all the way.  Set it to 1.


Scott

Kelduum

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Re: U-HID and Ultrastik 360 analog?
« Reply #2 on: September 16, 2023, 08:12:29 pm »
Are you seeing this in Windows or MAME?

    Windows - Have you run a calibration for the analog stick via Control Panel?

Thanks for the reply!

I'm seeing it in Windows - both the joystick cpl, and and online tester thing in the browser. Not even got to running it in Mame yet.

My current thinking is that I may have some dodgy wiring for one axis (it's acting a bit like it's floating but coupled), so I'm going to give that a check over, try fresh wiring, and see what the multimeter is saying, just in case.

I'll update this with what I find, either way.

Kelduum

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Re: U-HID and Ultrastik 360 analog?
« Reply #3 on: September 18, 2023, 06:30:27 am »
I'll update this with what I find, either way.

Okay, quick update time - I've got the digital controls working as expected (my configuration error), and I've checked and swapped the wiring, hooking up a regular 10k variable resistor instead works as I'd expect, so everything is fine with the board and so on, but still no useful analog output from the pins on one axis on the stick.

Running the Windows calibration with what little signal I can get results in some really inconsistent results - one axis is perfectly fine, but the other is always reading very odd, values as if it's floating, which (based on the Windows calibration numbers) seem to slowly increase/decrease the longer you hold the stick at an extreme, and influence the other (normally okay) axis as they do, slowly skewing it.

The problem seems to be a fault with the board and the raw analog on that one pin - I'll contact Andy at Ultimarc and see what can be done.