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| Lexiq:
--- Quote from: Pixelstreamers on March 07, 2024, 05:20:09 pm ---I have been reading over these 2 pages for the last couple of weeks over and over again, and admire your skill level in producing such a high quality cabinet. Very nicely done ! Especially the laminated sidewalls give this cabinet the professional finish it deserves. Also i really like the global aesthetic this cabinet showcases, everything seems to be very well thought out and matches the overall theme. Again, nicely done ! :applaud: --- End quote --- Thank you Pixelstreamers. I'm happy you're enjoying the posts! ;D |
| Lexiq:
T-Molding T-Molding is very often used to protect the edges of arcade cabinet sides, and any other exposed panel edges. It is applied using a pressure fit, with the stem of the T in a slot, and the top of the T lying flat against the panel edge. I chose to use dark blue for the sides and control panel, matching the blue / yellow theme, and black for the less exposed areas. I purchased my T-Molding from T-Molding.com after calculating how much I would need of each colour, and then adding some extra to allow for mistakes. I also included in my order a slot cutting router bit and accessories for cutting and trimming. Cutting the Slot T-Molding is fastened with a pressure fit into a slot cut in the center of the panel edge. This is cut with a router using the slot cutting bit mentioned above. To ensure the slot is cut exactly in the middle of the edge, I adjusted the router depth to the approximate center and then rotated the bit by hand so that it scratched a shallow groove in the wood, then turned the piece over and did the same from the other side. I adjusted the depth until the grooves from each side lined up exactly. This method guarantees the slot will be in the center of the edge, taking the thickness of the laminate into account. To keep the bit speed high and to avoid binding, the slot should be cut in several shallow passes, and in several sections for the larger pieces so that you're balanced and not stretching. Kick Board and Access Panel The lower edges of the kick board and lower rear access panel are currently unfinished plywood end grain, and don't adjoin any other panels. They face the ground and aren't visible from above, but it makes sense to protect them, and they proved an opportunity to practice applying T-Molding before attempting the cabinet sides. These panels are finished in black. Cabinet Sides These are the largest panels and as mentioned above, I cut the slots in sections with multiple passes for each section. With this design, each side has a single slot running from under the control box all the way around the bottom edge, up the back, around the top, and finishing at the lower edge of the screen just behind the control panel. This method has the advantage of protecting the lower edges of the cabinet sides, and also means that there are only two places where the slot terminates, both of which are hidden by the control panel and box. Control Panel The control panel is more difficult than the other panels for two reasons. The first is that the molding needs to cover the edge of the acrylic sheet that forms the surface of the control panel, so the slot must be offset up from the center of the panel edge. The second is that the molding will run all the way around the panel, finishing where it starts, so the length needs to be precise. The first problem is solved by using the already established router depth calculated for the other panels, and then cutting the slot with the acrylic clamped in place. This means that the edge of the molding will be flush with the surface of the acrylic, and slighting offset from the bottom of the panel. I rounded over the lower edge of the control panel by sanding, and it is painted black, so this is barely noticeable. The second problem is solved after applying the molding. Once the end is reached, the excess can be progressively trimmed until there's only a small overlap between the beginning and end. This can then be finished with a utility knife so the ends are touching. Because this is on the back edge of the panel, the join is almost invisible during use. Control panel molding needs to be done as a final step after applying graphics and securing the acrylic in place. Combined with the controls themselves, the molding will keep the acrylic in place and no additional fastening is required. Applying the T-Molding The T-Molding is applied using a rubber mallet. I also wrapped the mallet it in some spare EVA foam sheet to avoid leaving indentations in the molding, but I'm not sure this was necessary. Avoid using fabric for this purpose as it will leave an imprint of the weave on the molding. To begin, gently tap the stem of the molding into the slot until it's all the way in. After that, a little more force can be used and the surface of the molding will flatten out slightly. With a start made, continue along the slot. I found that to ensure the molding fits consistently into the slot without kinking, it helps to bend it away from the slot so you're only working on a very small section at a time, as well as keeping it under slight tension. Corners When nearing a corner, work out which part of the molding will coincide with the corner radius. I did this by bending the molding around the corner and marking the start and end of the curve on the molding. To allow the molding to follow the curve, it must be cut, and the cuts need to be different depending on whether the corner is convex or concave. For convex corners (e.g. the top or bottom of the sides, or any corner on the control panel), small V shapes must be cut from the stem that fits into the slot. For larger radius corners, the V shapes can be quite narrow, and wider for smaller ones. These cuts allow the molding to bend without intersecting and compressing itself. For concave corners (under the speaker panel and under the drawer), only a series of single cuts are required. These cuts allow the stem to spread apart around the outside of the radius. Trimming Once complete, the ends can be trimmed using a utility knife. Keeping the blade flat to the edge of the panel and cutting slowly ensures a clean, flush cut. If the T-molding is wider than the panel thickness and overlaps slightly, you may want to trim it. This can be done with a trimmer tool designed for this purpose, or very carefully with a razor blade, taking care not to scratch the surface of the panel. In most cases, any overlap was minimal, so I decided not to trim, but it was necessary on the inner back edges of the sides because even a small amount of overlap made it difficult to remove the rear access panels. Finishing T-molding may have blemishes in the surface, either from the factory or later from wear and tear. I found that in most cases, these can be healed by rubbing with a microfibre cloth. The heat generated by friction and the polishing action of the cloth result in a smooth finish. |
| Zebidee:
Thanks for the detailed account of the T-molding process :notworthy: What width slotting bit/cutter did you use? |
| Lexiq:
--- Quote from: Zebidee on March 24, 2024, 08:42:47 am ---Thanks for the detailed account of the T-molding process :notworthy: What width slotting bit/cutter did you use? --- End quote --- I used the 1/16" 3-Wing from T-molding.com to match the 3/4" molding. I also had to get a 1/4" arbor to fit my router. The 3/4" T-molding isn't an exact match for 18mm plywood, but with the 0.7mm laminate applied, it's almost perfect. |
| Zebidee:
Thanks - I once used 3/32 and it was mostly OK, but in some places I had to put some "packing" into the slot. I couldn't find my rubber mallet that time, and used a normal hammer with an offcut piece of hardwood, about 1 inch x 1 inch x 4-5 inches. That was really useful for transferring the energy to where it was needed. Think that T-molding is designed to have a tiny bit of excess - is easy to trim off with a craft knife. If the T-molding was a little too narrow, then that would be the much bigger issue. |
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