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| Zebidee:
Nice pics of your cuts, I like the details. Good that you can still find the old pics. I recently finished my Aussie lowboy cab, after ( like you) having started about 6 years ago, but couldn't find the early pics nor could I find the original plans (drawn onto scrap cardboard). Anyways just wanted to say "nice work" and I like the finished product - classic, non-pretentious, clean lines. You've got a multi-function control panel but not a frankenpanel. Well thought-out. |
| javeryh:
I’m sure you will get there but I’d like more I for on the monitor and how you mounted it to get such a large playfield. Is it a TV? Does it turn in with everything else? |
| Lexiq:
--- Quote from: Zebidee on June 11, 2023, 10:22:01 pm ---Nice pics of your cuts, I like the details. Good that you can still find the old pics. I recently finished my Aussie lowboy cab, after ( like you) having started about 6 years ago, but couldn't find the early pics nor could I find the original plans (drawn onto scrap cardboard). Anyways just wanted to say "nice work" and I like the finished product - classic, non-pretentious, clean lines. You've got a multi-function control panel but not a frankenpanel. Well thought-out. --- End quote --- Thanks Zebidee - the lowboy looks great! I took a lot of photos thinking I might write it up some time - I used Google Photos and Google Drive to keep track of everything. Regarding the panel - I was aware of the Frankenpanel trap ;D so I spent quite a bit of time trying to find that balance. |
| Lexiq:
--- Quote from: javeryh on June 12, 2023, 06:54:04 am ---I’m sure you will get there but I’d like more I for on the monitor and how you mounted it to get such a large playfield. Is it a TV? Does it turn in with everything else? --- End quote --- I was wondering if anyone would notice that ;) It could be a while before I get up to the screen, so I'll share a few details. The monitor is an Eizo EV2730Q, which is a square monitor with a resolution of 1920x1920. I originally planned to use a 24" 16:10 monitor as it seemed like the best option that would fit at the time. I don't remember where I first read about the Eizo, but it was over a year before I pulled the trigger because it was very expensive. In the end, I decided it was worth it, considering the amount of time I'd spent on everything else, and I haven't regretted it. It's perfect for 4:3 arcade games both horizontal and vertical as they take up the full height or width of the screen without requiring any sort of rotation. PC games like pinball also work really well because they can use the full resolution. The mounting is fairly simple - it fits into a routed area in the bezel, secured with the standard VESA mount. The bezel is made from the same 18mm plywood as the rest of the cabinet. The small pieces of cardboard were used as temporary shims to align the monitor within the bezel while assembling. The monitor is always connected to power and to the PC inside the cabinet, so it wakes up when the PC is powered on, and sleeps almost immediately when it stops receiving a video signal. Since purchasing the Eizo, LG released the 28MQ780-B which is similar (although not quite square) and quite a bit cheaper, so could also be a good option. |
| Lexiq:
Base and Shelf Slots The slots for the base and monitor shelf are cut into each side. They help to add rigidity and ensure that the total weight of the cabinet is supported directly by the base instead of only screws or bolts. This is important because the cabinet will be sitting on casters so the sides won't be directly supported by the ground. The length of the slots should leave enough space at either end for a panel (18mm), and the inset (12mm) for a total of 30mm from the edge. Preparation The router is again used, but this time with a straight bit which can cut vertically as well as horizontally. The bit diameter should match the thickness of the material used for the base and shelf - in this case, the same 18mm plywood used for the sides. Once you have an outline for the slot drawn on the side, position a straight edge such that the bit is within the lines of the slot when the router base is sitting against it. The track saw track is also very useful as a straight edge for routing. One technique for aligning the straight edge is to use a guide made from a strip of wood the same width as the distance from the edge of the router base to the edge of the bit. When this is lined up with the edge of the slot, the straight edge can be positioned against it and clamped in place. Remove the guide and position the router against the straight edge - the bit should line up with the slot. To cut the guide, use the router with the same bit, with both the edge of the guide and the router positioned against the same straight edge. In addition to the straight edge, a block at either end is needed so the cut stops at either end of the slot. These can just be scraps of wood clamped in place. To position them correctly, lock the router base so that the bit is just touching the surface of the wood and manually rotate the bit (making sure the router is unplugged first) so that the tip of the blade is touching the line marking the end of the slot, with the router against the straight edge. Then move the block so it touches the router base and clamp it in place. Cutting I used a depth of 5mm for the slots. Using the plunge base, adjust the maximum depth such that the end of the bit is 5mm below the base. The guide on the base's depth stop can be used for this, but I also like to double check by hanging the bit off the edge of the wood and lining it up with a measured mark on the side. While keeping the router base firmly positioned against the straight edge, start cutting by pressing the bit into the surface of the wood and moving the router between the stop. Make multiple shallow passes over the entire length of the slot until the router hits the depth stop and the bit is no longer cutting anything. Finishing Because the bit is round, the ends of the slot are circular. To make them square, I used a hammer and chisel to remove the corners. There's no special technique to this beyond making sure the chisel blade is accurately lined up the the edges of the corners before hitting it. Once the corners are cut to the depth of the slot, it fairly easy due to the plywood layering, to again use the chisel to cut horizontally and remove them completely. |
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