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Author Topic: Help with sega model 2 monitor and chassis  (Read 384 times)

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Harlock

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Help with sega model 2 monitor and chassis
« on: December 20, 2022, 05:08:18 am »
So, This is a bit, of a long story, I bought this cabinet from a guy, that he is supposed to repair old cabinets and resell them with pandora cards in it.
It was a sega virtual striker arcade (sega model 2 I think)


At the beginning I found out that the sides of the screen pixels were squashed


The arcade chassis in it is a Handared polo 25/28 and the tube has no stickers, except a number 68SP110H29 [] 54



Someone from this forum told me to change C97 Capacitor with a larger one and that relatively fixed the squashing issue, but it created another two problems,
some faint lines on the left and a bit of wigglines that doesn't go away with the nobes



Also the pixels left and right as you watch the image seem a bit off
this is the center ones, that look fine and clear


and those are on the sides, where you can clearly spot the rgb colors splitting somehow (not sure, maybe that's how it is supposed to look like)


Other than that, someone could say that this was acceptable and that this stupid handarex chassis
only supports vga output and 31Hz

In my desperation to fix it, I tried two wei-ya arcade chassis believing that it would solve all my issues and also allow me to use (CGA 15hz, cause I wanted to use pi2jamma or other original boards)

I tried them, I measured the resistance of Vertical and Horizontal coils and they were out of specs (V:0.4 Ohms and H:4.6 Ohms),
so I added I added one 1.5 Ohm resistor (10W) to each coil in order to be in specs



and I powered it up aaaand nothing happened, with both wei-ya's no smoke, no screen, no light in tthe tube, no nothing.
(one of them also has a fan on it and it moves a bit like it is trying to spin and it can't).

I replugged old handarex back and it works like it used to

So now my questions are
1. Which tube is that and can I find the original arcade chassis for it (maybe Nanao?)
2. Why the wei-yas don't work?
3. Can this tube also work with 31Hz and 15Hz?
4. I am getting a bit desperate here, also I have spent a bunch of extra money for no luck so far
5. Should I just burn it at the backyard? Why is this thing such a pain? And why it weights a ton?
6. What have gone so wrong? should I look for another handarex board maybe?

lilshawn

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Re: Help with sega model 2 monitor and chassis
« Reply #1 on: March 14, 2023, 06:13:33 pm »
i know this is old, but I feel i should clarify a few things.

A CRT does not have "pixels" like what you see on an LCD or other flat panel monitor. there are LINES that are drawn on the screen, and as the lines are drawn, the guns at the neck of the tube switch on and off to create the colors you see on that line. the colors are separated by a grid of holes/slots/wires (depending who made it and the arrangement of the guns) called a mask so that the appropriate guns are able to hit the appropriate hole/slot/space between wires and by proxy, the correct color phosphors printed on the front face of the tube.

because this is done at various angles in different parts of the screen. (from straight on zero degrees in the dead center of the screen, up to 60 degrees both upwards and to the sides in the corners of the screen) the phosphor elements and shapes vary throughout the screen to try and compensate for the off side angle of the electrons hitting them and the mask at an angle.

a CRT is not going to be perfect everywhere on the screen,. it's gonna be good in the middle, and likely kinda fuzzy on the edges and corners. if you want perfect everywhere, you are going to have to go with an 1:1 pixel LCD monitor. there is no other way around it.