Ms. Pacman Cabaret Scratch Build

[Zebidee]

When I look at top of CRT and see how thin your plywood is there, and how far the CRT is from the side battens, I take back the comment about cutting across the middle to make two pieces. In this case I reckon leave it together (which you are doing anyway, so I guess I didn't really need to say this, but here it is ).
 

[Greenman]

I managed to get a bit more stuff done. 

I have almost completed the artwork in photoshop, have cut the perspex for the bezel and have prepared the control panel for the joystick.  I still have to rebuilt the joystick but that can wait for now.  Thanks for the tips on paintwork Bobby!

[Zebidee]

Leaf switched joysticks! Going to the next level

[Greenman]

I figure the three most important things are PCB, CRT and original controls. 

[Greenman]

Some more updates.  Front and back cut.  Metal work for bezel and riser finished.  Marquee light panel done. Blocking for front and back done.  Monitor chassis mount done. Sanding done (among other things). 

Next is to route vents in back door, create base to sit it on and then undercoat.  I'm leaning toward illuminating the inside and having a transparent pink perspex window on the front instead of a coin door.  Then the PCB etc can be seen. Could even cut the window into the shape of Ms. Pacman... 

[Zebidee]

Looking good!

No front door of any kind then? You could make your perspex window openable?

The insides of cabs always get dirty/messy/dusty, not sure I'd want people seeing that.

Coin doors are popular on BYOAC. I'm indifferent, but makes sense for a classic repro.

I still suggest a foot below the base, that lifts the sides slightly above the ground, and allows you to run the T-molding all the way around without it touching the floor. Will reduce risk of it tipping a bit too (currently there is a slightly curved edge at front/bottom, makes tipping the cab easier). Even just a 3/4" thick piece of plywood.

You can always add it later.

[Mike A]

A classic arcade design looks better with a coin door.

[Greenman]

Unfortunately we over here in Australia had some very ordinary coin doors attached to our cabinets.  Below are some examples.  If I want anything from overseas, it costs $300 plus exorbitant shipping due to the weight...  Not sure I want the coin door to be the most expensive part of the build.  I was going to build a different machine every few months until I had all the ones I wanted.  I thought a clear colour (matched to the game) tinted window showing inside each machine with the PCB etc. lit up would at least display original architecture (not a raspberry pi).  I would prefer a coin door but my options are limited.

[Zebidee]

Unfortunately we over here in Australia had some very ordinary coin doors attached to our cabinets.  Below are some examples.  If I want anything from overseas, it costs $300 plus exorbitant shipping due to the weight...  Not sure I want the coin door to be the most expensive part of the build.  I was going to build a different machine every few months until I had all the ones I wanted.  I thought a clear colour (matched to the game) tinted window showing inside each machine with the PCB etc. lit up would at least display original architecture (not a raspberry pi).  I would prefer a coin door but my options are limited.

I'm Aussie too so I know exactly what you mean. Just look at some of the cabs in my sig, where many of the coin mechs are completely gone and replaced a "admin" panel, complete with credit & pause buttons and volume control. More useful for a "MAME" cab.

But, coin door better for a repro. A much cheaper option might be to literally print a coin door on. High quality graphics are available (somewhere), and many people have done it before on this forum (search). You can install a credit button in the appropriate place as well.

If you want to show off the innards of your cab, you can just open the front door.... oh, looks like you don't have one 

Practically speaking, if you don't have any kind of door on the front, at all, then it will make accessing your cab harder. Like, how will you get your hand inside, to unlatch the control panel, to service it? Reach up, from the back, around the CRT neck and anode cap? Not very convenient.

In those last pics of your, those Aussie lowboys (LAI, front and centre), you can clearly see those "foot" I was talking about earlier.

Sorry if I sound discouraging, trying to be constructive    Great work so far. Having see your earlier work with the jukebox, I just want this build to be as good.

[Greenman]

Thanks Zebidee.  And thanks for the continued encouragement.  I haven't glued the front panel yet so I still have some options.

A much cheaper option might be to literally print a coin door on.

I'd rather use vinegar as eye drops TBH.   

[Mike A]

I don't know much about Australia.

Just that everything is upside down and everyone has kangaroos as pets.

But here is a place that has coin doors.

https://www.austinamusements.com.au/collections/coin-mechs-and-coin-doors/products/coin-door-and-cash-box-door-1

It is the first place I looked and their cheaper ones are out of stock.

If places are selling them there then I imagine there are used ones for sale.

But if you don't want a coin door I get it. Keep building cabs. Looks good so far.

[Zebidee]

I don't know much about Australia.

Just that everything is upside down and everyone has kangaroos as pets.

Well, I actually did have a kangaroo pet as a kid. Named, imaginatively or not, "Skippy".

We got him as a joey. His mother had been shot by some "cowboy" hunters that came onto our land illegally, without our permission.

We looked after him as a joey, but he was otherwise free. He would accompany us while we rode around the farm on bikes and such. A constant companion.

One sad night, the cowboys came back and got him

[bobbyb13]

I have the same dilemma as regards coin doors Paul.

As a future proofing defensive tactic I have taken to having my kickpanels be removable (screwed on to battens from the inside) and then cutting a coin door sized door into them.

Solves the problem of access and makes it so that I can always add a coin door if/when the proper one arrives in my life.

With the kickpanel built to be removable, if a coon door of a different size or shape arrives I can always pull the panel and start again.

Lots of possibilities.

[Greenman]

Thanks guys.  Definitely food for thought.  I like the idea of the removable kick panel.

But here is a place that has coin doors.

Permanently out of stock.

Could always marry up these two...

[Zebidee]

Looks good enough to me, all things considered.

Just don't install it at knee-height, otherwise you'll be knocking that button a lot!

[LTC]

Could always marry up these two.

That's what I did with my Virtual Pinball machine. Blank coin door, 2 25¢ push buttons, and 3D printed fake coin return doors.

[Zebidee]

On another build, Laythe's "Shapeshifter", he cut square/rectangular holes to recess buttons like these, so that only the bezel/top of the button sticks out. An impressive project, worth a look if you haven't seen it yet.


 

 

[abispac]

So im my place, we have lots of old cabs and theyr parts are mostly crap. But sometimes you can rescue the monitor and the coin door. But real coin doors are getting rare. What they use here, they build theyr own, and use an electronic coin mech, i know this would kill the original look, so if it were me, i would probably go with the coin door sticker, while  getting a real coin door in the wild.

[Greenman]

Some metal work done, simple base built, routed rear door.  A few more small jobs and I'll be ready for undercoat. 

[bobbyb13]

This is looking awesome.

How did you get the metal of the control panel formed so perfectly?!

[Zebidee]

This is looking awesome.

How did you get the metal of the control panel formed so perfectly?!

I was going to ask this too! Did you get that done at a metal shop?

Those screws above the CP, for the glass holding bracket - I know that reflects an original cab, but normal screws are a bit blah  for such a prominent location. I suggest M4 or M5 black hex-head, with T-nuts behind to secure them.

Looking good 

[Greenman]

Friends in high places. A friend has a husband who works with sheetmetal. Awesome work. 

Yes, the current bolts are temporary.

[Greenman]

How do you think something like this would look?

[Zebidee]

How do you think something like this would look?

I think it would look great after a touch-up respray with a rattle-can (matt or semi-gloss finish).

I've learned (from painful experience) that you should bake that paint on with a heater, at least if in a humid climate (much of Australia right now).

[Greenman]

A little more progress with this one. Paint, T-molding, marquee, marquee lighting and speaker among other things. 

[Zebidee]

I love the colour. I used something similar on my Aussie lowboy. Also like the matching T-molding.

I see you are using the same kind of lockdown clamps, for the control panel, that I used on my lowboy. I've found them convenient and easy to adjust.

[javeryh]

It’s beautiful.

[Kayfabed]

Pink trim is the way to go! I personally went with pink buttons as well. Not sure if I can name them but they're a listed as a vendor on the site. It's an exact match.

[Phreakwars]

Looking pretty good so far. If you are looking for a vectorized image of the bezel, I uploaded some here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,164076.msg1728727.html