| Main > Lightguns |
| Lichtknarre: Unmodified Wii remote as a sight accurate Lightgun using 2/4 LEDs |
| << < (9/68) > >> |
| RandyT:
--- Quote from: BadMouth on October 31, 2022, 08:34:16 am ---Still a tad above, but since I have the oddness of larger offsets than expected, I wouldn't bother trying to revise it until you set your own up. Might be something weird on my end. --- End quote --- Thanks for checking it out. I'm pretty sure it's good this time. You can check my updated post for how it's being calculated. According to the measurements you gave, the blue line should be 272.32mm below the center of your top LED. Is it pretty close to that? If so, then the LED positions may be what's accounting for the offset values Fusselkroete thought were a little strange. Either that, or that particular camera type in the gun may be seeing things a bit differently than the typical Wii remote. If there is possibly intentional distortion in the lens, or some other optical difference, the optimal positioning may be slightly different. But I'm happy to hear that you were able to get your guns working! I ordered a 6.5v supply, so I'm going to attempt a constant voltage approach to the LEDs. If I have to, I'll add a small resistor, but that's pretty well below what 4 of those LEDs in series can handle (~8v) so as long as the supply doesn't get overtaxed, things should run without damage. I guess I'll be the guinea pig for that one. For safety reasons, there should probably be a .5a fuse in-line, but I'll add that later if things work well. |
| Fusselkroete:
--- Quote from: RandyT on October 31, 2022, 10:50:55 am --- --- Quote from: BadMouth on October 31, 2022, 08:34:16 am ---Still a tad above, but since I have the oddness of larger offsets than expected, I wouldn't bother trying to revise it until you set your own up. Might be something weird on my end. --- End quote --- Thanks for checking it out. I'm pretty sure it's good this time. You can check my updated post for how it's being calculated. According to the measurements you gave, the blue line should be 272.32mm below the center of your top LED. Is it pretty close to that? If so, then the LED positions may be what's accounting for the offset values Fusselkroete thought were a little strange. Either that, or that particular camera type in the gun may be seeing things a bit differently than the typical Wii remote. If there is possibly intentional distortion in the lens, or some other optical difference, the optimal positioning may be slightly different. But I'm happy to hear that you were able to get your guns working! I ordered a 6.5v supply, so I'm going to attempt a constant voltage approach to the LEDs. If I have to, I'll add a small resistor, but that's pretty well below what 4 of those LEDs in series can handle (~8v) so as long as the supply doesn't get overtaxed, things should run without damage. I guess I'll be the guinea pig for that one. For safety reasons, there should probably be a .5a fuse in-line, but I'll add that later if things work well. --- End quote --- Yep the lens distortion could be a part of this calculation xD. In 4 LED Tracker i ignore the distortion but when you align LEDs over the wii camera, than for sure the lens distortion is a factor when aligning the LEDs. Will also integrate maybe this kind of calculator/calibration-tool to the 4 LED tracker-plugin. Lens distortion is also part of the 2 LED Tracker. I hope that i soon find the time to release a guncase with lensholder: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ty1HJIT5EhbennsuP9QQvOKh2KsIYql9/view?usp=sharing Than will speak more about lensfactor :D |
| RandyT:
I finally got some of these LEDs in today and soldered up 4 of them in series. My 6.5v supplies haven't arrived yet, but for testing purposes, I just used my bench lab supply set to 6.5v. You can do all the calculations you want with these things, but at the end of the day, what they draw is what they draw. According to my supply, 4 in series with no resistor @ 6.5v gets them to about 600ma draw. If I put them onto some good sized heat sinks, I think that would be fine, but without heatsinks, they get "burn your fingers" hot. I also don't think the output is considerably better at 600ma, as opposed to about 400-450ma (which is pretty much what the graphs indicate.) But even at that level of current, they are still pretty hot. However, this isn't yet a fair test, as they are in series "lug-to-lug" so there's no wire in-between to help sink the heat away. I fully expect them to run a bit cooler with a decently large gauge wire between. I'm thinking somewhere in the neighborhood of ~18 gauge at minimum. So I think I have settled upon using a 6.5v supply and single 1/4w .1 ohm resistor, which seems to make them stable at a 410ma current. The resistor doesn't even get warm, so I know efficiency is pretty darned good. I may need put some small heat sinks on the LEDs, but I'm hoping I won't need to. I also did some testing with the cell phone camera. Turned off all of the lights and the LEDs were nice, bright white and well defined dots. However, I removed the filter from both an original and a knock-off Wii remote and placed them in front of the cell camera. Both filters knocked the brightness of the LEDs right into the proverbial dirt, but the filter from the knock-off was worse. When I looked at a bright light through both of them, it was clear as to why. The original filter had a slightly purple shade, while the knock-off was more cyan. If you want to let a good chunk of the longer red wavelengths through, cyan is about the worst color one could use. This image from the subtractive color wiki shows pretty well the effect that filters have on color. So while you don't want to let in so much red as to see the red power LED from your TV (you covered that anyway, right?) , you do want to let SOME of it through. Therefore, the slightly purple filter is definitely better. All of that stated, not all filters are created equal. I also tested a filter from a different light gun system which seemed to work considerably better, at least with the cell camera. So I guess the take-away is that if the image of the dots is weak, it may not be the LEDs, rather the filter in front of the camera! FWIW, I have some material on the way for testing which supposedly does very well in the wavelengths we are interested in, reaching close to 90% while blocking everything below the mid 700's. If I find that it works better, I'll probably make some pre-cut filters available in different shapes and sizes. Just thought people might find some of this interesting, as it's applicable no matter what type of IR system is being used. :) Edit: I just put ~10" of 14 gauge wire between each of the LEDs. This lowered the temperatures enough to also lower the total current consumption. It looks like I can do this without heatsinks and still get ~400ma with this size wire. If I ditch the resistor I see 570ma and module temps around 160f, which would probably still be fine so long as the back of the module was exposed to open air. |
| BadMouth:
My guns seem to have no problem seeing them through a tinted bezel at 300ma, but that's from 40 inches away. Even under the smoked acrylic, my black duct tape job looks like crap. I'm also worried about heat since I have them flat against the monitor. So I decided to redo them. When I originally built the cab, I put the acrylic as close to the monitor as possible. Regretting that now. Originally the plan was to mount the LEDs on the sides of the monitor, but putting them next to the screen results in a play distance short enough to never be an issue. The next iteration is some strips of thin (maybe 1/16") aluminum cut from a shop air filter frame with the LED and a small heatsink thermal glued to it. I'll bend the strips to fit around the sides of the monitor, paint and attach to the sides with vhb tape. |
| Fusselkroete:
tbh i think normal 980nm IR lights which are in the wii sensor bar could also work fine enough for normal size monitors/tvs. The video i made was only my way i did it. :D Some ppl told me that 980nm works fine. I used high power LEDs because i use this tool in beamer/projector from far distance. But i didn't validated this. Your choice xD |
| Navigation |
| Message Index |
| Next page |
| Previous page |