Lichtknarre: Unmodified Wii remote as a sight accurate Lightgun using 2/4 LEDs

Main > Lightguns

<< < (38/68) > >>

ZTylerDurden717:
Went over my buddies to test out some shooting on his 65". Used the nunchuck for reload and threw some random mp3 to drown out the banter. Don't mind the 60% accuracy I wasn't focusing before he hit record ;D

Can't get over this damn software.

RandyT:

--- Quote from: ZTylerDurden717 on March 04, 2023, 11:21:37 pm ---Can't get over this damn software.

--- End quote ---

Now that I have things tuned in, I'm still amazed. I think the highest I achieved for accuracy on the first part of VC1 was 99%. Then I figured out that just hit accuracy isn't the best way to get points. But still, it's a great test of the system.

If you really want a grueling test, fire up some "Sport Shooting USA". I think I'm addicted. :lol

I think my biggest problem right now isn't related to the software. The trigger-pull on the stock Nyko "Perfect Shot" is killing me, but I'll have that sorted shortly ;).

Howard_Casto:
Go to lowes/walmart/where ever and get some 6/32 x 1" machine screws. (Maybe 1/32 smaller but I like it nice and tight to avoid slop). Using one of the nuts as a spacer you can get a standard arcade switch centered behind the blue pull rod. Take off the grips and just drill holes and mount the switch with the screws. Then either remove the b trigger on the wiimote or cut off the little fin shaped tab at the end of the pull rod to keep the rod from catching on the wiimote so it only stops when hitting the switch. A little soldering and you are done. You may have to cut one of the supports but half of those are redundant anyway.

ZTylerDurden717:

--- Quote from: Howard_Casto on March 05, 2023, 07:47:25 pm ---Go to lowes/walmart/where ever and get some 6/32 x 1" machine screws. (Maybe 1/32 smaller but I like it nice and tight to avoid slop). Using one of the nuts as a spacer you can get a standard arcade switch centered behind the blue pull rod. Take off the grips and just drill holes and mount the switch with the screws. Then either remove the b trigger on the wiimote or cut off the little fin shaped tab at the end of the pull rod to keep the rod from catching on the wiimote so it only stops when hitting the switch. A little soldering and you are done. You may have to cut one of the supports but half of those are redundant anyway.

--- End quote ---

Practical. Definitely wanna see this in action.

RandyT:
I appreciate the tips, but I've already done the problem-solving steps. What works great is a mini-microswitch with a long-ish lever. If you bend the lever at a hard 90 a little less than halfway along the length of the switch body and then bend the end of the lever downward with a bit of a rounded profile, it places the switch in the open area in the top rear of the shell and the curved end of the lever contacts the back part of the bar. At that point, the screws and nuts for spacers to mount is a good approach, or even a pile of hot melt if one is lazy.

I also think the best way to handle the trigger bar is to just cut off any part of it which isn't necessary. Silicone grease helps a LOT in that channel, but just getting rid of anything which can add friction solves it permanently. The goal, for those who haven't guessed it, is to actuate the switch well before the trigger bottoms out, to prevent the actuation from pulling the front of the gun off-target....which is what happens too often with these types of shells.

The reason I haven't completed the mods on this one, is because I am working on 2 other shell candidates at the same time, one of which may end up being a better general-purpose solution. So that one is getting the attention at the moment, while I playtest with the other Nyko I haven't torn apart yet :).

Navigation

 Message Index

Go to full version