Lichtknarre: Unmodified Wii remote as a sight accurate Lightgun using 2/4 LEDs

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BadMouth:
I also forgot to mention that with vjoy the games have to be played stretched widescreen. I think calibrating in the in game service menu on games that allow for it could allow them to be played in 4:3, but haven't tried it. Also remember to always decrease MAME's default 30% deadzone and increase saturation to 100% for analog controls. It just dawned on the that the trailing on screen crosshairs probably could have been improved by cranking up the sensitivity in MAME's in game options. I wasn't thinking in terms of analog controls, but if it is ran through vjoy and showing up as joysticks, all those settings come into effect.

RandyT:
Everything sounds good then. I noted the lens flares, and since the Wii camera has a simple, single focus lens, I don't think it experiences them. I swear the photo makes it look like the monitor was inset, but photos are funny things when it comes to finding depth. And there should be no problem stepping down from 12v. Maybe just a janky multi-turn pot. Apologies for the back-seat driving, just thinking extremely out-loud :) At least others reading my ramblings might see some things to avoid.

I was still trying to get my brain to swallow the LED positioning (sorry for being a dingbat). But I think I get it now. The horizontal line of the on-screen LED position screen is only useful if you are able to position the top and bottom LEDs at exactly the points to which they intersect with their respective screen edges. I think what needs to be done to simplify this is to make this a multi-step process with either some extra code or a small external app. The way I see this working would be:

1: A vertical line is shown on-screen as a reference to center the top and bottom LEDs, maybe with some verbiage to place them as close as possible to the active screen edges to keep the shooting distance reasonable, due to the camera's limited vertical FOV.

2: Put up a couple of input boxes for the user to enter the measured distance from the center of the LED or cluster to the active screen edge for top and bottom respectively. Then from those two values, calculate a vertical offset to achieve the proper ratio. I have to think about this more to come up with the formula, but I don't think it's too complicated.

3: Show a horizontal line on the screen at the position calculated in step two, with some verbiage to place the side LEDs in-line with it and to maintain equal spacing from the active screen edge, which should keep them equidistant from center.

Does this sound remotely correct?

And thanks for the link to the LEDs. Amazon's curated search results must have kept me from seeing those, as they never came up in my attempts to find them. :angry:
Edit: FWIW, it kept showing me these, which are cheaper and are probably the same, but probably wouldn't get delivered as fast as not shipped by Amazon.

Fusselkroete:

--- Quote from: RandyT on October 27, 2022, 12:44:48 pm ---Everything sounds good then. I noted the lens flares, and since the Wii camera has a simple, single focus lens, I don't think it experiences them. I swear the photo makes it look like the monitor was inset, but photos are funny things when it comes to finding depth. And there should be no problem stepping down from 12v. Maybe just a janky multi-turn pot. Apologies for the back-seat driving, just thinking extremely out-loud :) At least others reading my ramblings might see some things to avoid.

I was still trying to get my brain to swallow the LED positioning (sorry for being a dingbat). But I think I get it now. The horizontal line of the on-screen LED position screen is only useful if you are able to position the top and bottom LEDs at exactly the points to which they intersect with their respective screen edges. I think what needs to be done to simplify this is to make this a multi-step process with either some extra code or a small external app. The way I see this working would be:

1: A vertical line is shown on-screen as a reference to center the top and bottom LEDs, maybe with some verbiage to place them as close as possible to the active screen edges to keep the shooting distance reasonable, due to the camera's limited vertical FOV.

2: Put up a couple of input boxes for the user to enter the measured distance from the center of the LED or cluster to the active screen edge for top and bottom respectively. Then from those two values, calculate a vertical offset to achieve the proper ratio. I have to think about this more to come up with the formula, but I don't think it's too complicated.

3: Show a horizontal line on the screen at the position calculated in step two, with some verbiage to place the side LEDs in-line with it and to maintain equal spacing from the active screen edge, which should keep them equidistant from center.

Does this sound remotely correct?

And thanks for the link to the LEDs. Amazon's curated search results must have kept me from seeing those, as they never came up in my attempts to find them. :angry:
Edit: FWIW, it kept showing me these, which are cheaper and are probably the same, but probably wouldn't get delivered as fast as not shipped by Amazon.

--- End quote ---

The white bars and the ratio number display should be the indicator so that the ratio is properly maintained. The problem here is that the program never knows where exactly the screen is. Whether there is more space on the left, right, top or bottom. The Wii simply cannot see this. Therefore, only the imbalance can be shown by the currently white lines.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=392263;image

It is also very difficult to calculate that the other way around, as multistep. If there would be a new screen where the program tries to calculate this the other way around, then the program does not know which ratio the screen has, if it would assume that the user has put the LEDs directly to the screen.

Also:

It is possible to have correct aiming also at the edges. Simply start to test at the left and increase/decrease the left offset in small steps and test inbetween. Continue with right offset. I will try to make a video about it in the near future.

https://geekonarium.de/en/what-is-ir-offset-and-why-do-i-need-it/

Also:

I heard for normal size screens 980nm IR LEDs works also fine!

Also:

Yes please beware reflections from walls or other objects :) a rim around the LED could help or only on one side.

BadMouth:
When I add LEDs to my cab, I think I can work out steps for using the current calibration screen that is easier to explain and gets better results than my quick taped on test.
It might be a while before I get to it though. I have some other things that need done first and I want to design and 3D print some brackets for the LEDs.

BadMouth:
Fusselkroete, thank you for providing more information. :cheers:

Has there been much interest in Lichtknarre? My reaction was "Why haven't I heard of this before?"
It works great!

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