Lichtknarre: Unmodified Wii remote as a sight accurate Lightgun using 2/4 LEDs

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RandyT:

--- Quote from: Howard_Casto on January 14, 2023, 03:30:20 am --- I really don't have a clue how many times one would fire in the typical non-machine gun, light gun game so I guess this is a try it and find out deal.

--- End quote ---

Based on a typical playthrough of VC2, it wouldn't be difficult to fire off a couple thousand shots or more during the course of the entire game. The faster, "splatter shooters" like HOTD, I imagine could be even higher. For a ball-park reference, a couple of 18650 Li-Ions rated at a real 2500ma, wired in series for ~8v when fully charged, would get you around 20whrs.

The 14500 types, however, are reported to have a MAXIMUM real capacity of around 750ma for the best of them, which means the ones in your gun are probably around 500ma. So, a rough guess would put those at about 4whrs, or most likely, not enough to get through even one play-through of VC2.

To get the juice you need for a decent solenoid, I would probably consider a hybrid "wireless" approach. i.e. something like a fanny-pack battery, with a short plug-in wire to supply the power to the gun. That way, the battery could be pretty large, and you would still be untethered to any fixed appliances.

Other than that, I think a couple of good 18650's would be the bare minimum useful configuration, with 4 in a 2S2P configuration being much better. But this would require a pretty good-sized gun shell to accommodate.

*edit* This would be awesome, but expensive... and heavy (4.5lbs), considering it uses a Lead-Acid battery :)

Howard_Casto:
Yeah if I've gotta wear some idiotic backpack I might as well just go back to a tether. I don't think the solenoid needs to be particularly powerful on pistol guns.... the ones in the arcade aren't very strong.

lilshawn:
3d print yourself some "magazines" with lithium batteries in them. chop a hole in the handle of your gun and BAM! RELOAD!

Howard_Casto:
Yeah I'm not worried about it. Wireless would be great but I'm not opposed to wired. I'm just playing around with what we can do to kind of help others if they want to go this route. I'm in a holding pattern atm. My mosfet boards came in but I'm still waiting on the solenoids. Probably need to go ahead and order the big boys from aliexpress as well since I couldn't find a comparable alternative.

Howard_Casto:
So I opened up the uzi today just to see what I'd be working with. I compared it to a generic wiimote I had lying around with the black plastic removed from the front so I could see exactly where the sensor lands. There are some vertical slats in the area where the wiimote would go but they are thin, and you can probably remove them with a hobby knife without much effort. The cavity itself is exactly as wide as a wiimote, I mean exactly. Like if you closed it it'd keep the wiimote from moving but wouldn't bulge the plastic exactly. The height of that upper cavity is almost exactly as high as a wiimote as well with maybe an 1/8th of an inch or so wiggle room. The length of the wiimote goes from the front of the shell to just past the upper middle screw. I think that screw post could be kept in place by nipping away at the wiimote shell, but I think the one in front towards the barrel would have to be removed. The shell has 7 screws holding it together as well as the barrel, so I think it'd still close well without it. So all in all everything looks good.

The only problem is the barrel. If installed as described, I don't think the sensor lines up with the barrel perfectly in the vertical orientation. Regardless of that the barrel is too long even with lenses in place so it'll have to be shortened. So, either I de-case the wiimote to get more vertical wiggle room, or I cut the barrel off the front and reposition it. Neither of which seems particularly difficult. The strap holder behind the barrel tip would cover up any ugliness from moving the barrel or if I go the decase route I could cut a slit in those vertical slats, and it'd hold the wiimote pcb in place. All of this is going by the knock-offs position though. I have a nyko wand and the real deal coming in this weekend. I'll remove the front plastic from them to make sure they all have the same vertical alignment.

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