Greenman, looking good so far.
A few contructive suggestions.
First, I suggest you change the CRT mounting slightly, so that the CRT corner pegs sit on top. Use T-nuts (on top, but drilled through) to secure.
Mounting it above means gravity is your friend, helping to keep the CRT in place. Mounting it below means gravity is fighting you, and everything depends on those screws not failing
Second, I suggest that you cut that piece supporting the CRT into two separate pieces with some room between them (the piece with a hole cut out of the middle for the CRT), and make a little more room for stuff like degaussing coils. There is no loss of strength or structural integrity from doing this.
That way you can slide the two pieces up/down, along the parallel battens, until you get the right position for your CRT. It'll also make it easier to physically manipulate the CRT to mount on top (rather than below).
I could go on more, but I have already written it all up here:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,165973.msg1749841.html#msg1749841In my Aussie Lowboy build thread, I also documented how easy it was to adapt this design to a slightly larger CRT if needed (just drill some more holes).
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,166352.msg1758984.html#msg1758984I could claim credit for the ideas, but really I worked it out from pulling apart and rebuilding cabs in Australia. I just saw what operators had done before and what worked.
Lastly, I suggest you build a squared (or rectangular) "foot" for the bottom of the cab, so that the sides do not sit directly onto the floor. It only has to be about 2-5 inches high, with some of that covered by the sides.
This way you can run the T-molding 360 degrees around each entire side, and you can round-off the corners for a slicker look.
The extra room below means you can also tuck a pair of wheels (and/or leveling legs) invisibly into the back, making it easy to move the cab about.
Having the sides off the floor also makes it more stable (safer), means you are less likely to damage the bottom/art, and makes it easier to sweep and mop around the cab.
In commercial arcades, the front part of this "foot" is often covered with painted or chromed steel plate, called a "kickplate", for obvious reasons
If you look over internet images of pacman cabs, you can see this foot on many cabs but you may have to look carefully, as it is never the focus of their pics. If you see a cab with a rounded front/bottom side corner, most will have a squared foot, even if it isn't obvious (to prevent the cab from accidentally falling on someone!)
On cabs with a foot, the inner floor area may actually be several inches higher than the bottom of the sides, as it would sit on top of the foot instead.
Hope this helps!