Main > Driving & Racing Cabinets
Installing G27 directly into the Control Panel of a Daytona Cab
baritonomarchetto:
It's not 2010 anymore: cabinets must be preserved and original components should be preferred over third party periferals.
Yes, it could take a little more time to interface a genuine wheel, but the feeling is completely different.
bsoder52:
I would love to keep the original steering wheel, shifter and pedals if I can. I agree that they are fantastic components. As I've looked into what to do I have to admit I get scared when I start seeing wiring charts and diagrams posted though and I don't have soldering skills for PC boards. I can solder wires and use heat shrink sleaves, but that is the extent of my electrical wiring capabilities. I believe I can solder wires to pots as well, but that's about it. I'm going to continue to gut the machines but going to try to cleanup the wheel/shifter/pedals and see if they pedals are functional. (One set seemed ok I think the other 2 sets are seized up). Anyone want to volunteer to be my mentor in the process? LOL i'll proly need a good one. This approach is a bit daunting to say the least ha.
What about the buttons needed to run emulation while keeping the original components? There would be no exit button on the original cabinet as an example.
baritonomarchetto:
Yes, converting a cabinet the right way takes a lot of time and efforts. But please believe me when I say that removing excellent, factory components and replace them with commercial PC peripherals by cutting and drilling a genuine cab will not stop your daytona hunger. It's not hiding PC peripherals into your cab that will turn it into a working daytona (phrase of the week :D).
If I was you, I would start with a simple gamepad hack. No force feedback, no lamp outputs... Only wheel, pedals and buttons/switches. In the process you will take confidence with soldering, your own cabinet architecture and your ideas will clear. Then you can stop or go on and start studying an approach
to FF. I started this way. Recently I developed a (open) JVS to PC interface, and a good number of other arcade dedicated, custom interfaces. Nothing special: it's just to say that it is possibile to improve starting from zero :)
About the limited number of buttons in racing games: a smart approach to increase the number of messages/keystrokes is the use of a shift button. When the shift button is held pressed, any other button sends a different key. Most commercial and DIY cab to pc interfaces adopt such a solution but also those gamepad to keyboard softwares could be used
fablog:
You don't have to solder anything if you use
this and this
Connect them to the different boards inside your cab and to the BFF. Configure the BFF software and that's it!
I try to do my own cables but it's not an obligation. The most difficult part is to get a wiring diagram for your cab and search which wire goes where.
The BFF creator have a thread in the gamoover forum, you should check there. It's in French (hint: google translate) but they speak English too.
bsoder52:
Interesting, which boards would I need to keep to run a PC and save the original game controls? Also, am I able to use the monitors with the PC somehow or should I look to sell those and replace with LCD TVs?
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