help finding custom build pill shaped machine

[DONDIDIT]

hey all .. i know this is a shot in the dark.. 
but if there is hope this is the place!!!!!

soooo..   some years back i saw someone build a custom cab..   im pretty sure it was a pacman theme and it was blue

the tricky part was he made he cabinet in sort of pill shape
so it was round on top and bottum and

i would lovvvvve to find this cab build..   ive always wanted to replicate it
im just now coming into the tools and finances to do so

any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

[rackoon]

Your probably in the right spot. I have seen a few round pac-man cabs come through here in the past years. Try the search option

[leapinlew]

These?

Pac-Man Legion from OND
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,158914.0.html


Rototron from OND
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,158083.0.html

[RandyT]

I could be wrong, but I think the OP may be thinking of those blue cylindrical-shaped plastic cabinets.  I believe they were roto-molded.  I haven't seen an image of one in forever, and I'll be darned if I can find one.

Otherwise, I agree that Ond is most likely to have made something similar to the description.

[PL1]

I could be wrong, but I think the OP may be thinking of those blue cylindrical-shaped plastic cabinets.  I believe they were roto-molded.

You're referring to Williams Duramold cabinets.



Duramold fun quote:   
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talk:Duramold

I remember Eugene Jarvis talking in Arcade's Greatest Hits for the PS1 about how they shrank over time and about one case where the pressure built up in one so much that it ejected its monitor into a Donkey Kong Jr machine

Scott

[RandyT]

The search-fu is strong with this one 

*edit*

Thanks for digging this up.  I don't know about the OP, but I would personally love to own one of these.  They should be dimensionally stable so long as not left in the sun to expand and shrink with the heat/cold.  I get the feeling that the one which ejected the monitor was in a boardwalk/street location or directly in front of a big window.

[PL1]

Glad to assist.   

Hope you find one as nice as this Blaster.   




Scott

[bobbyb13]

I immediately thought DuraMold Williams also, but the OP was asking about a custom build I thought.

Even with all the silly crap I have been building I still haven't made something that looks like a Tylenol gel capsule yet.

Does give me some ideas though-

[DONDIDIT]

hey all sorry for the late reply..

covid kicked my whole families ass!!!!
i mean it handed it to me the worst for sure  lol

still havent gotten my taste or smell back! 
imagine eating pizza that tastes like slime  lmao

anywho      just as i was closing out all my tabs    somehow the machine build popped on in google images!!!! woohoo
and it turns out it was posted here

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=profile;area=showposts;u=90041

that shape is f**kin awesome..
i know he used rubs and flexible plywood with laminate over the top

any similar build i could possible get a better idea about the wood ribs from?

thank you guys for al the replys!!!!!!!!!
and sorry for the late response..  ive literally been going through helll

[RandyT]

Glad you are feeling better!

I totally didn't see that in my mind's eye from the description

But it looks pretty easy to make something like that, made a lot easier if you have a CNC machine.  Literally, all one would need to do to pull that off is to use 1/4" lauan plywood for the curved sections and cut the appropriate curved slots in the side panels with a 1/4" bit, fill it with wood glue, screw the sides together to clamp it (with some internal framework) and fasten down the edges.  Sand fill and paint.

Some light relief cuts can be used on one side of the lauan, or wet-form if necessary.  Just don't leave it wet and to it's own devices.  That stuff will go every which way on you.

There's also the option of using flexible polymer sheet along the lines of Kydex.  Lots of options to get there.

[DONDIDIT]

hey randy!!    thanks for the reply .,. and it seems you have alot of experience with wood working so i appreciate the advice..

how do you think i should start>?
possibly with a regular arcade cab and then make mods?

[PL1]

how do you think i should start>?
possibly with a regular arcade cab and then make mods?

To get the curves you want, it will be easier to do a scratch build than modify an already-built cab.

Perhaps you could modify the plans of an original cab like one of the Taito cabs from classicarcadecabinets.com . . .



. . . to end up with something similar to the design you were inspired by.

Scott

[bobbyb13]

^This^

Scratch build wouldn't be so bad.
1. Take far less effort than destroying an original cabinet.
2. Take a lot less time!
2. You can use better material.
3. It will be a HELL of a lot Iighter when you are done.

Kerf cuts on 1/2" ply or mdf and properly placed batten bracing to get your curved parts and the rest is standard stuff.

[Zebidee]

To sketch out those big curves around the monitor, you can use a long metal ruler, or something else that is similarly flexible but strong.

It is relatively easy and ends up looking more natural than something plotted out with a giant compass/protractor.

[DONDIDIT]

hey guys thanks for all the replys and ideas!!!!
i keep trying to reply but for some reason i come back and my reply is missing!!!!!  lol

so here i go again with this reply lol

i was'nt meaning to tear down an old machine.. 
rather i was just thinking if there was a general sketchup file   i could start from and make modifications to
as i'm not sure what dimensions i should be going for .. (like general height of the machine and control board or angle of the screen etc )

also is there a general mount people use for the screens?
or is that something that should designed and cnc'd also?

here's what i plan to do

use the cnc machine (foldable lowrider 2)
to cut the side panels (along with the carved slots for the ribs to go into) , the control panel and all the screw holes

i'm new to cnc..  and all things machine made  --- but i usually dive into to deep water and somehow don't drown (right away at least )lol
i'm definetly a tech guy (mainly repairs)  but i have built a frew cool thingys

i have some questions that have been boggling my mind though (about arcade building)
where the control panel and top panel meet the plexy glass   i'm am so confused what is supposed to go there.

again thank you guys for alllll the replys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i admire all the creativity and skills lol..     
the is truly a wonderful forum for sure!!!!!!   

[PL1]

i keep trying to reply but for some reason i come back and my reply is missing!!!!!  lol

None of your posts are in "Trash Can" or "Post Hell" so it sounds like you're losing them when you try to post or preview after your forum login times out.

On the login screen, you can set the number of minutes to stay logged in or check the always stay logged in box.

If you think your login is going to time out, here are two ways to work around that:

1. Keep a forum page in another tab.  Just before previewing or posting, refresh that page and see if you are still logged in.  If not, login on that page then switch back to the tab with your post.

2. Click anywhere in the post text window, Ctrl-A (highlight all the post text), then Ctrl-C (copy highlighted text) before you post or preview.
- If your login times out, log back in and Ctrl-V (paste) your your text in a new reply.   


Scott

[Zebidee]

also is there a general mount people use for the screens?

I recommend using 4 pieces of wood:

- two straight-edged battens, about 1 inch thick, screwed into the sides. They must be parallel, and angled according to your desired monitor angle.
- two offcut pieces for brackets about 4-5 inches wide, length same as internal width of cabinet (inside to inside). These will be attached to the CRT corner pegs.

For the bracket pieces, you need to cut in a U shape around 2 inches deep to accommodate the part of CRT that bulges above the level of the corner pegs, and to allow the degaussing coil to not get crunched.

The angled cuts can be at approximately 45 degrees (don't have to be precise) and around 2 inches long (again, don't have to be precise).

This simple design allows you to "slide" the brackets up/down along the battens, until you find the right positions for your CRT. Slide both up/down together to adjust your CRT position. Screw into place when finished.

Use T-nuts for securing the CRT corner pegs.

This is easier to do and more flexible than building a monitor "shelf".

In my Aussie lowboy current build thread you can see an example of how this works. Later on in that thread I decided to swap in a slightly larger CRT, and you can see how easy it was to adapt the brackets and positioning for the larger size.

Two more straight battens, above and parallel to the first two below the monitor, support the glass.

i have some questions that have been boggling my mind though (about arcade building)
where the control panel and top panel meet the plexy glass   i'm am so confused what is supposed to go there.

For my Aussie lowboy, I built a fold-out hinged metal control panel that comes down to just above the glass when closed. This locks the glass in place. A short length of automotive window trim seals it.

In a pinch, you can use the rubber seals that hold mosquito mesh into frames. You carefully cut a slot along one side and slip it over the edge of the metal.

Otherwise, you might cover the bottom/top of the glass with some simple angled metal brackets. Get them fabbed up at a local metal shop, paint them with a rattle-can. That keeps the glass in place, unscrew to remove/clean/replace glass. At least, that's what I've done before.

[danny_galaga]

how do you think i should start>?
possibly with a regular arcade cab and then make mods?

To get the curves you want, it will be easier to do a scratch build than modify an already-built cab.

Perhaps you could modify the plans of an original cab like one of the Taito cabs from classicarcadecabinets.com . . .



. . . to end up with something similar to the design you were inspired by.

Scott

Just be aware that whatever is undercut at the bottom (as opposed to the regular footprint of a regular cab) will make it more likely to want to tip forward. This happened to my George Jetson cab. In my case I just put as much heavy stuff towards the back and made the back Panels really thick

[RandyT]

Just be aware that whatever is undercut at the bottom (as opposed to the regular footprint of a regular cab) will make it more likely to want to tip forward. This happened to my George Jetson cab. In my case I just put as much heavy stuff towards the back and made the back Panels really thick

THIS.  One possibility IF the cabinet will be going into a corner, would be to also design in a "kickstand" at the back center of the machine.  This would go a long way to increase stability and not be easily visible.

[Zebidee]

My Aussie lowboy was tipping backwards easily, my own fault really because I did an angle cut at the back (for the wheels) that was too large.

Installing a pair of adjustable levelling feet (and those wheels I mentioned) at the back solved the problem, now it is rock solid.

I'd always prefer to put a square base or foot down for a cab. Then the side panels can "float"slightly above the floor, and you can put T-molding all the way around without risking damage (from scaping on the floor).

That cab with the rounded front/bottom could benefit from a squared base, or at least a piece at front to stabilise it.

Cabs (and other coin operated things) falling on people is a real problem, especially with a) kids and b) vending machines.

Vending machines are more likely to kill you than sharks.

https://rushkult.com/eng/scubamagazine/things-more-likely-to-kill-you-than-a-shark/

[RandyT]

Vending machines are more likely to kill you than sharks.

Unfortunately, I have some experience with this.  Way back when I was young and stupid and in the military, there were soda machines in the barracks which we heard would drop a free soda if you tipped them.  My buddies and I had a little too much to drink one night and thought to give it a try.  One of the guys had a girl in his room next to it, so my buddies were listening at the door and not paying attention.  So I gave the machine a tip on my own and it fell over, pinning me at gut level against the opposing wall in the hallway.  I hadn't realized that they filled the machine that day and it probably weighed well over 500lbs. 

When my buddies pulled it off of me, one of them said "Dude, look at your hand!".  It was twisted around backwards.  It had broken the corner of my radius bone so that the hand was able to come out and twist.  I had enough to drink, so I pulled and twisted it back into place.  I immediately went into shock and couldn't breathe.  Spent time in a cast for that stunt.

Had no-one else been there, that's how they would have found me.  Pinned against the wall dead with a soda machine on me.  So yeah, be very careful with heavy stuff designed to be used by people standing in front of it.  Who knows what stupidity they might be up to .

[yotsuya]

Vending machines are more likely to kill you than sharks.

One of the guys had a girl in his room next to it, so my buddies were listening at the door and not paying attention. 

That’s some PBJ-level creepin’ right there. Make sure I award you a badge if we ever meet in person, Randy!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RandyT]

That’s some PBJ-level creepin’ right there. Make sure I award you a badge if we ever meet in person, Randy!

Lol.  That wasn't me doing that, I was too busy trying to kill myself with a soda machine.  My buddies were the ones who got distracted from the mission.

*edit* Thought I would add that it was only a few months later that I saw another service member hobbling around with a full leg cast, ankle to hip.  The other machine was in a wider hallway, so it came all the way down on him, breaking his leg in 3 places and trapping him underneath.  Took half a dozen strong guys to get it off of him.  Those things are nothing to mess with!

[bobbyb13]

This thread has gotten more interesting than I thought it would!

Not that it is the best solution, but I have read that even some original cabinets had cement blocks on the floor inside (from the factory!) to help prevent them from falling on people.

It really is a cool cabinet shape.
As long as it is made deep enough and has enough weight low and toward the back it would probably be fine.

Worst case scenario you could always add a floor bracket like many kitchen stoves have!

[Zebidee]

Had no-one else been there, that's how they would have found me.  Pinned against the wall dead with a soda machine on me. 

That's truly chilling. Wow.

Worst case scenario you could always add a floor bracket like many kitchen stoves have!

This is the preferred way to secure vending machines these days. I've never been to Hawaii, but I think that if you went out and about and had a look, you'd probably find most larger machines are secured with a floor bracket.

Otherwise operators (or someone else) would get sued.

[DONDIDIT]

well damn!!!!!!!!!       you guys completely convinced me about the rounded bottom being a bad idea..   and a headache to work around most likely!!!!!!!!!

i would not want to hurt anybody just because im trying to look cool!!!!!!!     but..  i decided to do few searches and i came across somebody who enjoyed the same design the original creator had    and modified the bottom to be flat!!!!!!   wooohoooo.


doesnt look too bad either..  but definetly not the same lol  maybe if the design was still rounded at the bottom it would still look as cool

[KenToad]

The overhang of that marquee area just kills the design for me. At 6'2", I definitely won't be playing this thing standing up. The second iteration with the flat bottom looks even worse. There's a reason why classic designs are classic and it's not just aesthetics.

[RandyT]

The overhang of that marquee area just kills the design for me. At 6'2", I definitely won't be playing this thing standing up. The second iteration with the flat bottom looks even worse. There's a reason why classic designs are classic and it's not just aesthetics.

The shape of the cabinet isn't necessarily what's important, at least with regard to player height.  What is important is the "eye box" or line-of-sight for the monitor.

The use of CAD with some stock, anatomically proportional human figure images or models comes in handy to figure this out.  They just need to be placed the proper playing distance in front of a profile view of the cabinet which shows dots indicating the top and bottom of the monitor/TV.   Once one is happy with the player position, all that's left to do is draw a straight line between the eye of the player to the dots.  If you want to see the maximum player height for a design, just increase the size of the player, obviously keeping the feet anchored, until just below the point where the the line intersects some part of the cabinet.

If the player height ends up being shorter than what you want, it's just a matter of using some geometry and spatial positioning to make some tweaks.  Angling the monitor makes it shorter, and bringing the monitor forward, or lowering it, increases the angle of the upper LOS.  Making the control panel protrude from the front more has the same effect by moving the player back from the monitor.

In other words, there's a good amount of space above the monitor in the second image, so it doesn't really matter if the underside of the overhang has an angle leading to it or is flat like this one.  The LOS will be unchanged.  The cabinet also seems pretty tall when compared to the doorway next to it, but without exact height measurements, it's difficult to come to the conclusion that there will be a problem for taller players.

The only other consideration is the comfort of taller players.  You don't want the marquee area to feel like it's "in the face" of the player, even if they have complete view of the monitor.  The human eye has a roughly 180 degree vertical field-of-view, which is pretty large, so angling the player head to face the center of the monitor space can help one decide if this is likely to be an issue.  Obviously, changes which move the player back or raising the height of that leading edge, at least with this design, will be the only options.

But at the end of the day, you are building it for you, family members and possibly your group of friends.  If your design fits for that crowd, you needn't be concerned with the best design for the general public where heights might be much more varied.     

[Zebidee]

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