Winning!
After making myself nutty with trying to get a K7000 going (I discovered the previously unknown joy of frozen width coils) I remembered that I still had a generic Chinese chassis that was first on my Multi-Williams build- and that it too was a wide neck like the tube I had cut those braces for.
yeehaw
Hopefully it lasts for a little while. I imagine they are not very robust but the thing won't be on for 12 hrs at a clip.
And thank you everybody for kudos and words of encouragement. I'm stoked on this one at this point.
cab looks great, Q*bert sucks.
And do you really hate Q*bert Malenko?!
It is totally inane of course, but I always thought it was the completely ridiculous premise of the whole thing that made it hilarious to play.
Plus if you sat at one in the wild long enough BITD it was pretty much a guarantee that some of the ladies would be showing up.
Appreciate your compliment even if you think the game sucks!
The painting I am getting better at recently- thank you guys.
Amazingly, I am using a rather cheap gun from Home Cheapo.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Gravity-Feed-Composite-HVLP-Spray-Gun-H4850GHVSG/203497641It actually works really well for the price (last one I used that was nicer was over $700!) but keeping it clean is critical.
Also requires that you NEVER use ANYTHING except oil based primers and paints.
Even the smallest bit of water in these things and parts immediately corrode and pit and you need to throw all the precision bits (if not the whole gun even) away.
Seriously.
One round of latex (probably acrylic too) and it is toast.
Oils (or if you are a rock star like that Ond guy- urethanes!) only.
I've been having great luck with both Kilz and Zinsser oil based primers and Rustoleum oil based colors for top coats.
Those stick to wood nicely, harden up pretty quickly, and if you hope to add any artwork later then the stuff will actually STICK to oil based paint.
Even the best 3M adhesives do NOT properly stick to any water based paint from what I have seen.
I use mineral spirits to thin the paint to a good flow consistency (like whole milk or half and half,) pour that directly into the feed cup through a toss away paper cone strainer and then spray away.
The gun likes 35-40 lbs of pressure if you get the paint consistency right and I use the larger of the two gauge needle/diffuser combos that came with the gun because of how thick of a material I'm using.
You need to play with the dial settings for paint volume and it takes time to get a feel for the trigger (it first sets air flow and then pulls more to meter the paint feed) but once you have it set up it works great.
The other thing is that you really need to pull it all apart and fastidiously clean it EVERY time you use it.
I use turpentine because it is a stronger solvent than mineral spirits and actually gets all the previous tasks paint out.
Q-tips and a toothbrush and dixie cups are awesome.
When it is all clean, then reassemble it, blow a thimble full of turpentine through it and it will actually work the next time you go to use it.
If you count setup, mixing, spraying, and cleaning then a single round for a full cabinet is about an hours time.
I was being lazy previously and only sanding the bare ply to 220 but this time I took it 400 and the grain disappeared even faster.
Even one coat of primer and two of color and the wood grain is practically gone.
If you were more patient than me and sanded it to 400 before primer and then also in between your colors coats you would probably think it was laminated when you were done.
I need to knock some T-molding into this baby and then try my lovely new BitKit2 in it also to see if I have my screen orientation good for both (or if I have to flip the stupid tube over!)