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Author Topic: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!  (Read 2191 times)

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bobbyb13

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Well,

I got irritated that I'm waiting on parts to finish the cabinet I am building for Sgt. Kam (in trade for the 6 termite farm cabinets I got from him- should I have posted that build first?!) and the girls decided they would watch another Criminal Minds episode when I was trying to not electrocute myself with dialing in the Mocktail cabinet (thank you Andrew for proper moniker and Scott and Gil for CRT motivation!) so I went up to the workshop.

Instead of just going upstairs and PLAYING something I figured I should do something productive.

My sick mind decided that it was less time/frustration to build a whole new cabinet than sort out details on the various other open projects I have going on.

I would like to blame it on the Appleton's.
It is extra yummy when you add it to a mango milkshake (everybody's trees here are in hyperdrive- dry winter I hypothesize.)

A jamma fpga cabinet is ridiculously easy to build and not only have I had a Jrok Mylstar board here for a bit (and a BitKit2 now for that matter) but I had an epiphany about scratch builds here.

I don't have room for the 30 cabinets I would like to have (not to mention at least ONE real freakin pinball machine before I die) so why don't I make all my builds henceforth at 28" wide interior dims (apart from Rampage and Spy Hunter) and pin the harnesses the same so that I can indiscriminately swap control panels across machines?

If you are building seperate vertical, horizontal, vector, multisync/whatever cabinets (and you have had too much rum) doesn't this make sense?!

And so Q*bert!

Didn't take long to find a proper profile to work from on the interwebs and I found original dims and sorted out a ratio to make a repro.



After looking at the thing it occured to me that this is a tiny cabinet and for somebody 6' ish with a sore neck it would need some adjustment to be comfy fo rme to play- originality be damned!
Nobody else here will care or notice.

A bit of adjustment on screen angle and shortening marquee height a bit for sightline for me and here we are.



Had to wait until morning to cut it out (rrrrrrr.....)
If you aren't shooting for a CNC cut pure repro then a circular saw, jig saw, sander and router are all you need to pull this off really.



It took me a few (six is it?!) cabinets to arrive at an easy solid base but this is it and will be repeated forever hereafter-



3/4" ply (cut to fit inside the side panels, kick panel, and power inlet panel below the door) with 2" solid nylon casters (locking swivel ones for the front) and 2x2 perimeter pieces to screw through for the vertical panels- and done.

The cabinet doesn't wobble during play and is still easy to move and if you glue these things together before they are screwed and nailed together they are NOT coming apart on you- or your great-grandchildren for that matter.

So I got a little into it with my cut list (if anyone wants the list just send me a message) table saw, glue and brad nailer and got to this point before I took another pic.



Added bonus is Nikki is happy about it (even though it is s distraction from what I am SUPPOSED to be doing around here!) because she loved Q*bert BITD.

But didn't all the ladies love Q*bert (and Centipede?)
 >:D
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

Semper Why

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #1 on: June 27, 2022, 09:24:06 am »
Who doesn't love Q*Bert?

It's amazing how fast this is coming together. The result of experience, I suppose.

pbj

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #2 on: June 27, 2022, 05:45:27 pm »
Easy with the booze and power tools.  My school principal lost 3 of his fingers making cabinets while drunk.




bobbyb13

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #3 on: June 27, 2022, 07:32:37 pm »
A sobering thought of course.

If I'm running the saws, router, etc. I drink little if any at all.
I have a healthy respect for blood-letting tools.

The big issue seems to be a lot of rum in the planning stages (although still nobody here even sees me tipsy at any point) hence another build thread!

If I can get through a few other tasks today I will get the kick and door panel cut later and then get to priming this evening when the wind has calmed down.
It would be fun to be playing this one by the weekend.

THAT will certainly involve a few drinks.
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

javeryh

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #4 on: June 27, 2022, 08:12:23 pm »
Yo bobby - chill out with these insanely fast builds - you are making the rest of us look bad!

Awesome job so far - Q*bert is great.  Definitely can't wait to see this one come together...

Zebidee

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #5 on: June 28, 2022, 03:34:25 pm »
Ahhhh Q*bert. A dedicated Q*Bert cab is like a dream! And yes, the ladies love this gender-neutral hero who swears indecipherable obscenities when things go bad. Who wouldn't!!!?

Love your easy-style approach to cutting cabs.

I always like cutting wood in the mornings - cooler, and pretty much guarantees that I'm (mostly) sober.
Check out my completed projects!


bobbyb13

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #6 on: June 29, 2022, 02:40:15 am »
This was another of those incomprehensibly ridiculous games that I sucked at- and still love to suck at!
Oh, the paper route money that went into this one too.

Of course I have had the garden cage project to deal with (the peacocks destroyed the last productive cucumber, pea, and tomato patch the girls planted,) the trade winds are blowing even when it is dark, and a small pack of wild dogs showed up to harass the neighborhood's livestock last night too, so distractions from Q*bert are reaching a crescendo here.

I need to go pour myself some rum, go sand out this freakin' cabinet, and keep an ear out for ---smurfy--- barking.

Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

bobbyb13

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #7 on: June 29, 2022, 04:58:40 am »
Damn wind finally stopped blowing and I didn't hear any feral dogs yet, so...



I have dicovered something important about the sprayer.
Mineral spirits (in meager quantity) are fine for thinning your oil base paint out a bit so it doesn't mung up your gun while shooting, but when it comes to cleaning it out afterwards...?
Turpentine or nothing.

It is the only thing strong enough to melt all the crap back out of all those pinholes in the gun parts and not destroy anything in the process.

The other critical bit was this time around I decided to go a bit depper with sanding prep and took it to 400 grit before even laying the primer on.
And I ditched the microfiber type cloth I was using previously to start on removing sanding dust and just opted for a blast from the airgun.
I think that cloth was raising the nap actually since it grabs loose fibers (however small.)
I can already see that the finish is going to be greatly improved from previous builds.

Maybe tomorrow after I fix some stuff at the local Boy Scout camp and hang some lights out on my buddy's new front deck tomorrow then this project can actually turn yellow too.
 :D
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

Mike A

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #8 on: June 29, 2022, 07:07:01 am »
Nice work so far.

Love it.

bobbyb13

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #9 on: June 30, 2022, 04:15:56 am »
Thank ya!
This has been a fun one because it has gone so fast.
Been trying to get it playable this week so Nikki could play it on the 10 yr anniversary of when we met (this Friday) but it may have to wait.

Wind finally died so I got at it.



Between prep, paint mixing, spraying, and clean up one coat takes an hour, an hour 15 somtimes.

But it is yellow now!

The jamma stuff does go real quickly but I need to decide how the guts will be layed out since it will house at least two game boards.

I still need to sift through the pile of monitor stuff I have now to choose which screen/chassis combo will go in it to begin with also.

Man-
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

Zebidee

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #10 on: June 30, 2022, 07:11:44 am »
Man you work fast
Check out my completed projects!


javeryh

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #11 on: July 03, 2022, 03:20:53 pm »
This looks incredible so far.  Love the color!   :cheers:

bobbyb13

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #12 on: July 03, 2022, 07:18:59 pm »
Thank you gents.  :cheers:

I went to measure for where the tube was going to hang before I painted the inside panels black (like a real Q*bert) and decided that I like how obnoxious all this yellow is- so it may remain that way.
If I change my mind later it will get vinyl where it should be black so I don't have to take it all apart to paint.

Probably the most fun part of this build is that it is the one I will finally implement the ability to swap multiple panels around to a few different machines.

I want to be able to swap any one of maybe 6 panels between:
This vertical jamma BitKit2 and Jrok Mylstar cabinet
A horizontal one with a 27" multi-sync running MAME
If I can ever get the parts, a cabinet with a 25" color vector running AdvanceMame.
I think I can pull it off this time and it will allow me to play all my old favorite games with proper controls- and a few weird ones I never got good at.

The trickiest part will be having control panel harnesses that are all pinned the same way.
Not a huge deal really.

I also got to spend some time sorting out the Franken-monitor for this one, using a Magnavox TV and a Wells chassis that says P447C on it.

Actually got it to sync and I'm either getting really lucky or must be learning how to dial these in because it looks pretty decent.

I'll have to post a progress pic when I can.
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

bobbyb13

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #13 on: July 03, 2022, 11:17:40 pm »
As threatened...

Couldn't help myself but start cramming electronics into it.
Jamma/fpga builds are so easy compared to other possibilities.



Here is the monitor concoction, tuning device function compliments of CraftyMech's TPG2.



It took me a while to sort out that the neurotic V-hold issue I was having was less a bad pot on the remote adjuster board and more the incomplete sync arrangement I started with.
I had a pretty decent picture but seemingly endless fiddling with the V- hold wouldn't get the image to sit still.

As soon as I decided to add a -V sync line to pin 10 on the chassis then all of a sudden it was lovely.

As long as I can guess well on screen view angles and mounting depth then I can get the runners to carry the tube in tonight probably.
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

bobbyb13

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #14 on: July 04, 2022, 05:48:17 am »
Got the tube mounted, chassis sorted and installed, fired her up and...
Image is upside down.
I was going off my Sinistar build because I figured James may have used the same default orientation with all his boards- which he may have!
And I messed with the Sinistar and forgot.
I think it can be flipped in settings.  Need to actually read the manual I printed out now.

Makes me wonder what fun the BitKit2 attempt will look like since they need to agree in orientation or my dreams are shattered.

And no freakin way does the whole thing stay yellow.
Holy crap.
Soon as I put a piece of t-molding on and a joystick and buttons inthe CP it made me think of what you would see if Ronald McDonald was into the hobby and built a HellCade.

Standard Q*bert black panels happen tomorrow.
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #15 on: July 04, 2022, 07:34:01 am »
cab looks great, Q*bert sucks.
If you're replying to a troll you are part of the problem.
I also need to follow this advice. Ignore or report, don't reply.

Mike A

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #16 on: July 04, 2022, 08:13:27 am »
Nice work so far.

Love it.

Still applies.

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #17 on: July 04, 2022, 12:58:25 pm »
Nice job so far, Bobby!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk and left on because who the hell are you to tell me what to do?
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

Zebidee

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #18 on: July 05, 2022, 07:47:46 am »
Impressed by you using an ISO transformer, even though you strictly don't need one with a TV (but it is safer).

Just a thought about the yellow... I find yellow works on the outside or convex surfaces of an object, imagine Pikachu, but doesn't work so well on the concave surfaces.

Another way to say it: yellow works well on the "outside" angles of surfaces, not so well on the "inside" angles.

This is because of the way the light gets reflected off each surface and onto the other surface(s). Yellow paint essentially absorbs blue light but emits red and green. For weird reasons (this is glossing over a lot) our eyes interpret this mixture as "yellow". However, when that light reflects off nearby yellow surfaces, it tends to "muddy" them.

An extreme example would be to paint yellow into a 90 degree inside angle, like the inside walls of a room corner, it will look a lot darker and dirtier than you probably expect.

Summary of my suggestion is, avoid yellow for inside corners, like the monitor well :D


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bobbyb13

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #19 on: July 05, 2022, 08:12:52 pm »
And yes!
In the interest of continuing on the too much yellow escapade, I decided that black vinyl maybe later was a lazy cop out-

And so masking-



And of course why would it NOT decide to rain (when it hasn't for 6 months) now that I am at this point.

Took a while waiting to dodge rainshowers but paint came out fine, and while I was waiting for it to harden up to put on t-molding on, and was working on the monitor...



So much for doing better with arcade chassis tuning.

This is the thing that makes me most aggravated in this hobby.

Back to the monitor drawing board I guess.  :banghead:

Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

javeryh

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #20 on: July 05, 2022, 08:32:03 pm »
The black/yellow combo looks badass.  What are you using to spray?

Zebidee

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #21 on: July 05, 2022, 09:33:43 pm »
The black/yellow combo looks badass.  What are you using to spray?

My thoughts exactly. Draws your eyes in. Once you get a CP, bezel, some art in, it'll be awesome.

Bobby, am re-reading your posts about the painting process. Appreciate the level of detail you provide. I'm also interested in what spray gear and paints you use.

Check out my completed projects!


bobbyb13

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #22 on: July 06, 2022, 02:33:37 am »
Winning!



After making myself nutty with trying to get a K7000 going (I discovered the previously unknown joy of frozen width coils) I remembered that I still had a generic Chinese chassis that was first on my Multi-Williams build- and that it too was a wide neck like the tube I had cut those braces for.
yeehaw
Hopefully it lasts for a little while.  I imagine they are not very robust but the thing won't be on for 12 hrs at a clip.

And thank you everybody for kudos and words of encouragement.  I'm stoked on this one at this point.

cab looks great, Q*bert sucks.

And do you really hate Q*bert Malenko?!

It is totally inane of course, but I always thought it was the completely ridiculous premise of the whole thing that made it hilarious to play.
Plus if you sat at one in the wild long enough BITD it was pretty much a guarantee that some of the ladies would be showing up.
 8)
Appreciate your compliment even if you think the game sucks!

The painting I am getting better at recently- thank you guys.

Amazingly, I am using a rather cheap gun from Home Cheapo.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Gravity-Feed-Composite-HVLP-Spray-Gun-H4850GHVSG/203497641

It actually works really well for the price (last one I used that was nicer was over $700!) but keeping it clean is critical.
Also requires that you NEVER use ANYTHING except oil based primers and paints.

Even the smallest bit of water in these things and parts immediately corrode and pit and you need to throw all the precision bits (if not the whole gun even) away.
Seriously.
One round of latex (probably acrylic too) and it is toast.

Oils (or if you are a rock star like that Ond guy- urethanes!) only.

I've been having great luck with both Kilz and Zinsser oil based primers and Rustoleum oil based colors for top coats.

Those stick to wood nicely, harden up pretty quickly, and if you hope to add any artwork later then the stuff will actually STICK to oil based paint.
Even the best 3M adhesives do NOT properly stick to any water based paint from what I have seen.

I use mineral spirits to thin the paint to a good flow consistency (like whole milk or half and half,) pour that directly into the feed cup through a toss away paper cone strainer and then spray away.

The gun likes 35-40 lbs of pressure if you get the paint consistency right and I use the larger of the two gauge needle/diffuser combos that came with the gun because of how thick of a material I'm using.

You need to play with the dial settings for paint volume and it takes time to get a feel for the trigger (it first sets air flow and then pulls more to meter the paint feed) but once you have it set up it works great.

The other thing is that you really need to pull it all apart and fastidiously clean it EVERY time you use it.

I use turpentine because it is a stronger solvent than mineral spirits and actually gets all the previous tasks paint out.
Q-tips and a toothbrush and dixie cups are awesome.

When it is all clean, then reassemble it, blow a thimble full of turpentine through it and it will actually work the next time you go to use it.

If you count setup, mixing, spraying, and cleaning then a single round for a full cabinet is about an hours time.

I was being lazy previously and only sanding the bare ply to 220 but this time I took it 400 and the grain disappeared even faster.
Even one coat of primer and two of color and the wood grain is practically gone.

If you were more patient than me and sanded it to 400 before primer and then also in between your colors coats you would probably think it was laminated when you were done.

I need to knock some T-molding into this baby and then try my lovely new BitKit2 in it also to see if I have my screen orientation good for both (or if I have to flip the stupid tube over!)
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

Zebidee

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #23 on: July 06, 2022, 03:29:54 am »
Thanks for the detailed info!

You would know that I need to paint my own cab soon.

So, with your plywood, seems you just sanded it down. I was wondering if I needed to apply some jointing compound onto mine (I think the plywood is lower quality to yours) then sand to level it off. I've read advice to use the jointing compound, but you seemed to get away with just some 400 grade sandpaper. Your paint job looks great. Thoughts?

I'm going to jump online as see if I can find a decent but cheap spray gun/set. And some turps!
Check out my completed projects!


bobbyb13

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #24 on: July 06, 2022, 05:05:45 am »
Yeah, if your wood sucks you'll want to skim it with something before you try to smooth it out for paint.

I've heard of people using drywall compound but I can't speak to its longevity/compatability with oil based paint.
Only ever used my epoxy/microballoons concoction myself.

Bondo or the like (effectively a polyester analog of my secret sauce- and yet a lot cheaper and less sophisticated!) is a safer bet without experience but you have to use what you can find.

Decent paint work helps of course but with what I've made it's the artwork that really makes the look of the cabinet in the end anyway.

Finally now though the time and $ into painting and the results have gotten to the point for me where I have abandoned the idea of formica laminating a whole cabinet.

Bad enough that even cheap cabinet ply is $75/sheet, but enough laminate to do a whole box would add $400 just in material these days out here.
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

Zebidee

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #25 on: July 06, 2022, 09:03:01 am »
I'll give the drywall stuff a go. It is water-based, easy to work/sand. I've already got some in fact, local brand "Acrylic filler for small cracks", so it should fill in any tiny gaps/cracks pretty easily. All I'm missing is a good squeegee.

The stuff is designed to be painted over with all kinds of paint, though a coat of primer recommended. The rule of thumb is oil over acrylic OK, acrylic over oil not OK.

A little story. I once rented a apartment where the owner had painted inside himself. He tended to use whatever pot was at hand, and painted acrylic house paint over old oil paint in the bathroom. With all the moisture, the acrylic paint simply came away with a wet sponge if you tried to clean the mold off (and it had lots of mold, rising damp in fact).

I moved out after six months (early as possible, end of my lease) and he tried to take money from my bond for the bathroom paint. I told him directly that you never paint acrylic over oil, and to give me my damn money!
Check out my completed projects!


yotsuya

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #26 on: July 06, 2022, 12:16:12 pm »
Hereís what inquiring minds want to know - since youíre using a Jrok, are you going to incorporate the knocker for Qbert?


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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #27 on: July 06, 2022, 01:13:12 pm »
Hereís what inquiring minds want to know - since youíre using a Jrok, are you going to incorporate the knocker for Qbert?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk and left on because who the hell are you to tell me what to do?

Absolutely will!

Love that he incorporated that.
Need to buy me some parts and get that happening now that the machine is actually functional.


Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #28 on: July 06, 2022, 10:15:26 pm »
Hereís what inquiring minds want to know - since youíre using a Jrok, are you going to incorporate the knocker for Qbert?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk and left on because who the hell are you to tell me what to do?

Absolutely will!

Love that he incorporated that.
Need to buy me some parts and get that happening now that the machine is actually functional.
Itís fun to get working and not hard to do. I did it with my Q-beret.


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***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

bobbyb13

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #29 on: July 06, 2022, 11:42:20 pm »
Hereís what inquiring minds want to know - since youíre using a Jrok, are you going to incorporate the knocker for Qbert?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk and left on because who the hell are you to tell me what to do?

Absolutely will!

Love that he incorporated that.
Need to buy me some parts and get that happening now that the machine is actually functional.
Itís fun to get working and not hard to do. I did it with my Q-beret.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk and left on because who the hell are you to tell me what to do?

I will need to look up this Q*beret of which you speak!
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #30 on: July 07, 2022, 03:16:36 am »
Hereís what inquiring minds want to know - since youíre using a Jrok, are you going to incorporate the knocker for Qbert?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk and left on because who the hell are you to tell me what to do?

Absolutely will!

Love that he incorporated that.
Need to buy me some parts and get that happening now that the machine is actually functional.
Itís fun to get working and not hard to do. I did it with my Q-beret.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk and left on because who the hell are you to tell me what to do?

I will need to look up this Q*beret of which you speak!
Thread: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=151827


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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #31 on: July 07, 2022, 04:19:31 am »
Thank you!
With a moniker so clever I couldn't wait and dug it up as soon as I finished readi g your post.
 :lol

Sweet machine sir!
Blending the front glass and CP on the same plane is really slick.

Did you make your artwork too?
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #32 on: July 07, 2022, 05:58:11 pm »
Thank you!
With a moniker so clever I couldn't wait and dug it up as soon as I finished readi g your post.
 :lol

Sweet machine sir!
Blending the front glass and CP on the same plane is really slick.

Did you make your artwork too?
Yeah, I did. That was back when I had access to a sweet printer and metal shop!

The knocker took it over the edge. My Godzilla has a virtual knocker if you win a free game, but Iím thinking about putting an old-school one in just because. :)


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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #33 on: July 07, 2022, 08:21:15 pm »
Always fun to see the tools and skillsets people here have.

I got nothing with image work and I have a lot to learn still with electronics.

In fact, I'm not even sure what diode I am supposed to be using so the knocker doesn't blow up my board.

Oh, the things I didn't know I would need to know!
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #34 on: July 08, 2022, 02:22:55 am »
I'm not even sure what diode I am supposed to be using so the knocker doesn't blow up my board.
The function you're talking about is called a snubber or flyback diode.

Some solenoids and relays have a built-in diode (check the datasheet) that prevents voltage spikes and chatter when the coil's magnetic field collapses.

A common switching diode or a 1N4 series one like the 1N4001 should be fine as long as it's rated for more current than the solenoid coil.
- The relevant diode ratings are discussed from 11:47-13:07 in this video.



Sounds like you'll be using the JROK knocker output to trigger a relay board and --depending on the solenoid-- a separate (12v? 30v?) power supply.
- The relay board takes the place of the transistor in the video above.
- The JROK knocker output pulse triggers the relay board.
- The relay applies the operating voltage (12v? 30v?) to the solenoid.



Lots of useful info in this thread.   :cheers:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,109029.0.html


Scott

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #35 on: July 08, 2022, 05:53:45 am »
Thank you once again Scott!

At least now I know what parts to order and I'll give those links a go now.  :cheers:

I assumed that I could use the 12v from the SPS running the cabinet (since nothing else utilizes it anyway) but I don't want to create voltage issues if triggering that solenoid requires a huge draw and it could mess with the 5v output on the power supply.

More interesting stuff to learn.
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #36 on: July 08, 2022, 07:29:19 am »
At least now I know what parts to order and I'll give those links a go now.  :cheers:
It's a start, but you should dig deeper before ordering parts.

Forgot to mention the recommended inline slow-blow (2.5A?) fuse between the power supply and the knocker coil in case the relay gets stuck in the closed position.   :embarassed:

I assumed that I could use the 12v from the SPS running the cabinet (since nothing else utilizes it anyway) but I don't want to create voltage issues if triggering that solenoid requires a huge draw and it could mess with the 5v output on the power supply.
I'm not sure how much current a 12v coil draws (this post says about 2.7 Amps for an A-5194) or if that level of current draw will mess with the 5v output.   :dunno




Scott

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #37 on: July 08, 2022, 01:47:12 pm »
Jrok's literature says a 1A slow blow is appropriate.
I would rather blow that fuse than my board!

Seems like that coil is not energized for long and from the drawing there is no relay necessary?
Appears that you just feed the coil 12v and the board grounds it though terminal H on a jamma connector.

On page 6 of his Mylstar fpga manual (I would post it here if I could figure out how to!) he gives a great drawing of how to build it.
He assumes that we plebes know more about diodes I guess.
 :lol
« Last Edit: July 08, 2022, 02:22:30 pm by bobbyb13 »
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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #38 on: July 08, 2022, 05:12:23 pm »
Jrok's literature says a 1A slow blow is appropriate.
I would rather blow that fuse than my board!

Seems like that coil is not energized for long and from the drawing there is no relay necessary?
Appears that you just feed the coil 12v and the board grounds it though terminal H on a jamma connector.

On page 6 of his Mylstar fpga manual (I would post it here if I could figure out how to!) he gives a great drawing of how to build it.
You are correct on all counts.   :cheers:

Thanks for the reminder to RTFM -- Read The . . . Fun . . . Manual.   ;)   :lol

Here's a link to the manual for anyone interested.
http://files.arcadeshop.com/pdf/msf_manual_rev_01.pdf

Pages 6 and 7 cover everything you need to know to connect the knocker to the JROK board.
- If you're in a hurry (12v knocker is currently out of stock) and want some flexibility on running the knocker on 12v or 30v, you can order the 30v knocker and the 12v coil.  Both are currently in stock and it's easy to swap coils.

He assumes that we plebes know more about diodes I guess.
Looking at various pics online, the Gottlieb A-5194 and A-5195 coils/knocker assemblies mentioned in the manual come with a snubber diode already installed so all you need to know is which end of the coil is attached to the cathode. (band end of the diode)   ;D

   


Scott

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Re: Q*bert- Because who was alive in 1982 and doesn't want one?!
« Reply #39 on: July 09, 2022, 12:15:51 am »
Nice get!
Hadn't seen that- thanks Scott.
I'm planning on getting the 12v flavor and making my own bracket so we'll see how I do once I have the parts in my hands.

I conned Tyler into helping me move Q*bert upstairs but took the tube out to make it more managable so need to reinstall that first.
Really need to test the BitKit2 in it also and load some roms actually.

And might as well confirm the tube is oriented properly before I start on bezel shenanigans.
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.