Namco light gun schematics

[AMG KC]

Hi all, does anyone have the schematic diagram of the Namco light gun sensor board?

Namely the Namco 96-0454-00 amplified type sensor, trying to find these now is very difficult, and i'd be interested to know exactly what is in there to see how they have done it all.

I use the Guncon .45 and the Guncon 2 on my projector and they typically work very well.

Some of the other guns for other consoles don't tend to work so well on the projector, and some just won't work well enough to use at all. If i could replicate this amplifying circuit and do a bit of testing i reckon i could get any of them to work without a hitch.

Here is a couple short videos of the Guncon 2 in action on the projector:

[lilshawn]

I just replace the sensor transistor and the LM311 IC and they are 99 of the time good to go.

most of the time the sensor has a broken leg or blown from static from the monitor (make sure your monitors are grounded on gun games) and i just replace the LM311 as a matter of course since it's like an 60 cent part

https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/LM311PSR?qs=VBduBm9rCJS3za09gxtBzA%3D%3D

the original sensor eye transistors are NLA but a suitable replacement i have been using is the OP805SL its about 5 bucks.

https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/Optek-TT-Electronics/OP805SL?qs=MYMjFsmMg9YRusPHjGj65w%3D%3D

be sure to cut the correct leg off and orient it correctly.

very rarely the L1 Inductor goes open, but that's only if it's had a serious zap. i'm unsure of it's value.

so for about 6 bucks in parts, you can rebuild the sensor boards. that goes for IT guns, raw thrills guns... really most of them that use this same optical triggering system. some of the sammy ones use a different sensor, but more or less the same.

[AMG KC]

I just replace the sensor transistor and the LM311 IC and they are 99 of the time good to go.

most of the time the sensor has a broken leg or blown from static from the monitor (make sure your monitors are grounded on gun games) and i just replace the LM311 as a matter of course since it's like an 60 cent part

https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/LM311PSR?qs=VBduBm9rCJS3za09gxtBzA%3D%3D

the original sensor eye transistors are NLA but a suitable replacement i have been using is the OP805SL its about 5 bucks.

https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/Optek-TT-Electronics/OP805SL?qs=MYMjFsmMg9YRusPHjGj65w%3D%3D

be sure to cut the correct leg off and orient it correctly.

very rarely the L1 Inductor goes open, but that's only if it's had a serious zap. i'm unsure of it's value.

so for about 6 bucks in parts, you can rebuild the sensor boards. that goes for IT guns, raw thrills guns... really most of them that use this same optical triggering system. some of the sammy ones use a different sensor, but more or less the same.

I know how to repair the faulty ones yes, this is not the issue, all the guns work correctly as they should.

I want to amplifer boost them so i can run a lower drive on the blue tube. Light guns only care about the blue image, green has minimal impact, and red is completely ignored. You can disconnect red and green (or in the case of a projector simply cover the green and red lenses) and the guns will still work perfectly. Cover the blue lens or remove the blue signal input and the gun won't work well, if it will work at all, and it generally will not.

Namco used to sell an amplifer boosted sensor board for their guns, part number is in the first thread. If i can find a diagram of that board or get one of them i can replicate it. This board allowed those guns to function well even on very worn tubes with low light output.

[lilshawn]

i getcha. you are talking about having these....



and replacing it with this...

https://na.suzohapp.com/products/arcade_game_parts/96-0454-00

yes, it's a (now) standard optical drive system used everywhere.. i can draw up a suitable schematic for you if you'd like. it' wont be EXACTLY the same , but will operate the same if you want to take a stab at rolling your own.

[AMG KC]

i getcha. you are talking about having these....



and replacing it with this...

https://na.suzohapp.com/products/arcade_game_parts/96-0454-00

yes, it's a (now) standard optical drive system used everywhere.. i can draw up a suitable schematic for you if you'd like. it' wont be EXACTLY the same , but will operate the same if you want to take a stab at rolling your own.

Yep That is the same standard one i have a couple of those new here.

Would be great if you could do that, would appreciate it!!

Thanks mate!!

[lilshawn]

ok, i drew this up with easyEDA. it's free and works okay enough, if not a little clunky.

https://www.mediafire.com/file/679iyddjw36807a/Desktop.rar/file

it's porblabbly 90% accuprate. also i'm constantly tired and my brain isnt working optimally. I didnt install any of the SPICE libraries or anything on my computer so i couldn't simulate or pre-route it or anything to double check it.

so, this is the 95-1018-00 board, which based on the pics of the namco board on happs site, look like the exact same thing as the namco compatible board, only shrunk down. I also included some populated and unpopulated board pics in case i fudged any of the connections, they can be retraced.

the only thing i'm not 100% sure on is the transistors...as one of them is nearly unreadable and could be about 5 different things, even uder a microscope i couldn't get the first digit... and the other comes up as 2 different things, one of them NPN the other PNP. so i guessed based on the rest of the circuit, but  you might have to play with what you can get... or try simulating the circuit with a few different ones you can locally source... but resistor values and capacitor values and stuff are accurate. The opto part is just a pin-compatible-similar-part-placeholder-for-the-actual-part-later, for basically when you layout and route out the board connections

i recommend flooding the rest of the board with ground plane, as it's susceptible to interference and static.

[AMG KC]

ok, i drew this up with easyEDA. it's free and works okay enough, if not a little clunky.

https://www.mediafire.com/file/679iyddjw36807a/Desktop.rar/file

it's porblabbly 90% accuprate. also i'm constantly tired and my brain isnt working optimally. I didnt install any of the SPICE libraries or anything on my computer so i couldn't simulate or pre-route it or anything to double check it.

so, this is the 95-1018-00 board, which based on the pics of the namco board on happs site, look like the exact same thing as the namco compatible board, only shrunk down. I also included some populated and unpopulated board pics in case i fudged any of the connections, they can be retraced.

the only thing i'm not 100% sure on is the transistors...as one of them is nearly unreadable and could be about 5 different things, even uder a microscope i couldn't get the first digit... and the other comes up as 2 different things, one of them NPN the other PNP. so i guessed based on the rest of the circuit, but  you might have to play with what you can get... or try simulating the circuit with a few different ones you can locally source... but resistor values and capacitor values and stuff are accurate. The opto part is just a pin-compatible-similar-part-placeholder-for-the-actual-part-later, for basically when you layout and route out the board connections

i recommend flooding the rest of the board with ground plane, as it's susceptible to interference and static.

Thanks mate!! That is brilliant

Sorry for slow reply, i didn't see your response until now.