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Building a Star wars yoke from scratch
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Chris:
VERY sharp!  I particularly like the way the grips came out... when I first saw them I thought they were gonna look silly, but after painting, they're quite sharp.

I am concerned, though, about the possibility of the paint wearing off.  I wonder if the stretchy grip material used for baseball bat handles would work well here?

Oh, and what kind of controller are you using as your interface?

--Chris
Stormy151:
Or you could try that spray on rubber grip stuff, it comes in black.  I think it's called "Plasti-Dip".

Where's the tut?  I'm dyin' ovah heah!  ;)
G@M3FR3@K:

--- Quote from: Chris on March 16, 2004, 04:28:23 pm ---Oh, and what kind of controller are you using as your interface?

--Chris

--- End quote ---

I believe he is using a Microsoft Sidewinder Dual Strike  Gamepad hack like the one documented on 1UP's Arcade site.

I'm pretty sure if you wait for Menace's writeup (tutorial), he will tell you exactly what he used and how he did it.  ;)
Xiaou2:
 looking pretty decent.

 however,  i still have to advise that you put some small metal tubes on the sides, to act as brushings/bearings.  (hmm, rollerblade bearings might fit the shaft if its not too thick...)

 when you mentioned that the grooves in the shaft would just settle in place - i dont think you realized something...

 if the handles moved left to right a bit as you moved back/forth - then yes... the groove wouldnt be altered much.  

 but since its meant not to sway - and even if it was... it might not because your hands force will alter its course... its gonna eat a new path into the wood.  Couple that with the constant downward pressure that your most likely putting on it as you play... it will further destroy and dig deep into the soft wood.

 ohh - and dont forget about the springs.  you have them pulling up on the shaft - thus it will also eat the upper part of the wood up at times.


 once the sawing takes place - there will be more and more 'play' - which will cause greater damage because the added forces will magnify with the pivot.   eventually the  gears will get out of place and chip/bind/break... ect.

 its not hard to find a part to act as a propper brushing... certainly not as hard as having to rebuild the entire 2 side assemblies with limited play...

  edit:  just noticed  -  easy fix.   just get 2 more of those metal end parts and pop them into the sides from the inside outwards. (so the large metal circle is on the inside)   Mount it by drilling 2 small holes in it and screw it down... or simply just woodglue it in place using the outter rim.    it might cover the bar all the way to the outter part - thus making it a bit more pretty. : )    if too long - just sand or cut down.... or use washers or a simular spacer to keep it from sticking out as far.

 
Tiger-Heli:

--- Quote from: Xiaou2 on March 17, 2004, 01:10:49 am ---  edit:  just noticed  -  easy fix.   just get 2 more of those metal end parts and pop them into the sides from the inside outwards.

--- End quote ---
If I understand what you are saying, the metal end parts above are a separate washer and a threaded nut, so that won't work.

I like your idea though, and it should be possible to add a spacer with a washer on the end (one piece deal) that will slide over lamp rod and could mount to the inside of the yoke side panels.  Failing that, it wouldn't be very hard to find metal sleeves and overdrill the holes and glue them in place.

Now that I think about it, you could make the sleeves the length of the side panel plus the threaded rod extension, place the sleeves loose over the rod, tighten the handles and have very little if any threaded rod showing.

And all of this is only required on the handle grip axis, the side-to-side axis is fine without a bushing (when the plans come out, you'll understand).
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