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Author Topic: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel  (Read 18599 times)

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bobbyb13

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #40 on: June 30, 2022, 08:52:24 pm »
Would be pretty easy to fab a raised bezel that would keep one from accidentally whacking a MAME admin button even at knee height on the kick panel.
Even more fun maybe if it could be disguised as a legit coin door, maybe via one of those faux 3d printed ones-

The next cabinet I build is one that could benefit from such a layout.

Hmmm...
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #41 on: July 11, 2022, 03:22:07 pm »
I've been suffering decision paralysis with this cab for a while.

But then, a few days ago, I had a revelation.

I was thinking about the mini-control panel, thinking about cutting the hole in the door, thinking that this cab already looks pretty good WITHOUT that hole or mini-CP, and I realised...

I can put the admin and pause buttons up under the marquee, behind the speakers, left and right sides. It will be all black in there. Make the buttons black, and nobody will ever see them.

Volume control can be mounted between the speakers, in line with the top of the speakers. It will also be black (with white indicator), so you'll barely see it, it won't distract your eyes.

Credit button (lit) can go on front of control panel, between P1 and P2 start buttons. Still no solution for USB ports, but they are not essential, and I can always add them at the back.

So it looks like I can leave the mini-CP out this time. Which is good, because while they can look cool 'n all, it takes a lot of fiddly work that I'd rather avoid.

The best part about this is, now I know what I'm doing, I can move on and start prep for painting. My decision paralysis has lifted.

Will post some painting prep shots later.
Check out my completed projects!


bobbyb13

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #42 on: July 11, 2022, 03:47:27 pm »
I'm with you on less is more.
My builds keep getting more streamlined as I go.
The hidden in plain sight thing is a great plan.
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #43 on: July 11, 2022, 04:24:34 pm »
Bobby, your threads have inspired me.

Beyond  rattle-cans, I haven't done spray painting since school, and that was with the little pen-gun for sci-fi space-painting kinda stuff.

So I ordered a cheap, local, Chinese, ubiquitous paint sprayer for about $15. See how we go.

Already have the air compressor.

I've been hearing and heeding that any moisture *at all* getting into the gun = bad.

So, also ordered a couple of those water/oil filters to keep any crap out of the air lines, with the quick-connects. One for each end of the hose.

One filter has a gauge built in, so I'll always know what pressure I'm working with. That will go on the gun end of the hose.

Local paint store should be good enough for paints/solvents. They probably sell spray guns too for that matter, hmmmm.

While I'm waiting for the gun and other bits to come, I can get busy gutting the cab and prepping surfaces (bit like when you catch a fish?).
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bobbyb13

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #44 on: July 13, 2022, 06:59:08 am »
I think well placed black admin buttons in the speaker panel is a great idea.

Need to come up with some solutions for my current monstrosity.
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

Mike A

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #45 on: July 13, 2022, 07:06:55 am »
I use a wireless keyboard for admin stuff.

It cost 11 bucks or something like that.

It is about the size of an Xbox controller.


Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #46 on: July 13, 2022, 11:24:00 am »
I think well placed black admin buttons in the speaker panel is a great idea.

Need to come up with some solutions for my current monstrosity.

Thanks - though I often waste a lot of time thinking about these things, usually the simplest solutions are the best.

Many of your cabs are designed around a single game, which means you may not always have the same needs for extra buttons. You really want to think about how each cab will be used, and what you will be running inside it.


I use a wireless keyboard for admin stuff.

This is the way to go for keyboards, I should buy a few - for same reasons, USB ports on this cab would be unnecessary, extravagant.

However, will still need the discrete "admin" and "pause" buttons. Just realised... I haven't given any thought to where the power button should go! Golly gosh, wife will want that.

This cab will be primarily for others to use. My wife, smaller kids. Paying guests (we run a guesthouse). I don't want them to have to deal with a keyboard, even a wireless one. Don't want people calling me, out of my batcave, because they want to change games, ho-hum  ::)  Will keep a keyboard inside for use when "servicing" it.

Gutted the cab yesterday and started working on some surface prep today. This plywood is mediocre quality, sometimes has open gaps internally and can be quite flaky in parts, and can come up from the edges easily. Initially I used some PVA wood glue (Titebond II) to seal around the edges and gaps and prevent further flaking. The PVA glue will also help prevent moisture getting in the edges and ruining paintwork (humid climate). Then a tougher acrylic wood putty, designed for large cracks and edges (Agnew's, an Australian brand I had stashed away, powder mix with water).

Made up a couple of small batches of putty to start with. Being acrylic, it dries quickly so you need to work fairly fast. Been a while, years, so my first attempt applying the putty was quite kludgy. More sanding back I guesss   :-\

Then I found my plasterer's groove (literally, the T-molding groove!) and the magic started happening.

Worst parts for the flaking are around the T-molding grooves, in particular that top-left curved edge where my bro-in-law's wandering hand kept feeling the unprotected curve, as he walked past several times a day (until I covered it with tape). Can't blame him though, my own fault really for leaving the cab half-done for 2-3 years, I guess.

I admit there is something quite satisfying and almost irresistible about running your fingers along that curve. Maybe I just like curves ;)
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Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #47 on: July 13, 2022, 02:01:05 pm »
Pics, I know, pics or it didn't happen.

I neglected to take any "before" shots. It was messy. Main objective here was to fill gaps, restore and seal edges. hopefully to get that nice curve back too.

The left side was the worst, but it looks a lot better now.

 


Looks OK, not great IMHO. Much better than it was. T-molding will hide many of my sins. However, I may hit some spots with a little putty, one more time.

I need to make up another batch anyway - for the door.

Here is the acrylic putty I used:

 

For each batch I used around 2 desert spoons of powder. Start with one, make a little hole, add a little water, mix. Add second spoon/water as needed to make right "doughy" consistency. In fact, you make dough mixing the same way. This Agnews putty is easy to clean up too. At the end of my last putty session it started raining here (wet season), so I just scraped the big bits off and left my mixing stuff (bucket and stick) in the rain (not the metal scraper).

I couldn't find anything obvious for a putty mixing plate, but I found a standard old 20 litre PVC paint bucket. I wanted the lid, but no lid. So I turned the bucket upside-down, cleaned the bottom off, and used that to mix on! I was elevated about 50-60cm so I didn't have to bend down much, and I used so little water that it didn't run off

After 6-8 hours drying time, putty was easy to sand. After 24hrs or more, probably not so easy.

Only tools used were a 20cm wide metal plasterers spatula, a mixing stick, a damp rag, and some sandpaper.
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bobbyb13

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #48 on: July 13, 2022, 02:23:15 pm »
I use a wireless keyboard for admin stuff.

It cost 11 bucks or something like that.

It is about the size of an Xbox controller.

Need to look into this too.
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

Gilrock

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #49 on: July 13, 2022, 02:56:23 pm »

Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #50 on: July 13, 2022, 03:43:07 pm »
Every "mame" cab, or Pi or Mister etc. should have one. No cables, no fuss.

You can use velcro tabs to stick it somewhere inside your cab.
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bobbyb13

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #51 on: July 13, 2022, 06:43:00 pm »
Here's the mini keyboard I bought for my bartop:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079L2C7J1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's awesome Gil- thank you!
I was worried about dropping the mouse pad that I've had in my full size ones to get that small of a form factor.
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #52 on: July 13, 2022, 10:05:42 pm »
I was worried about dropping the mouse pad that I've had in my full size ones to get that small of a form factor.

I keep a few USB trackball (marble) ergonomic mouses, which I use for doing most setup stuff on my cabs. Used to get carpal tunnel syndrome, and found a trackball mouse much easier to use. Can use entire hand, in any position, no mousepad or surface needed.

Once most stuff is sorted out, can swap back to normal mouse or wireless keyboard/touchpad as convenient.
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Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #53 on: July 15, 2022, 09:29:18 am »
Redid my puttying. Especially on the left side curve.

Got my ski-slope curve back. Added the before shot (right, after first round of putty) for comparison.


 



I like a small mix. Bottom of this paint bucket is perfect for mixing on.





Back to more puttying

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Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #54 on: July 17, 2022, 03:39:09 pm »
I lost most of my original side panel plan/cut photos with my old phone, but I found a few shots on my newer phone of how I cut the front curve. Some highlights below.

After experimenting with several techniques, I settled on using my trusty one metre long metal ruler to make the curve. I used a total of four small nails, barely tapped in, two nails each end, to hold the ruler in place while I marked the cut in pencil. As the cut would take out the nail holes anyway, there was no need to worry about filling later.

In the last photo, back of the ruler, you can see the second nail on the other side, around 4-5cm further along. This was enough to stop the ruler from springing out.

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bobbyb13

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #55 on: July 17, 2022, 07:25:55 pm »
Fill work makes me nuts.
Unless really heinous I often skip it.
 :)

Nice idea on the metal ruler!
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #56 on: July 17, 2022, 09:40:47 pm »
Fill work makes me nuts.
Unless really heinous I often skip it.
 :)

I have noted that too, and do sometimes ask myself why I am bothering so much.

It is like this: it is my art, and I don't want to do ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- art. ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- art is not really art, it is just ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---. Anything worth doing is worth doing well - or not at all.

On the other hand, my old man (who himself was a great artist and an art master/teacher - seriously. You can look him up in encyclopedias and his works hangs in major galleries) taught me that if you are working on a piece, and you are fundamentally unhappy with it, then just scrap it and start again. Don't look back.

Thus, I tend to vacillate between being really fastidious about getting something right, or taking to it with a sledgehammer, petrol and a torch.

Nice idea on the metal ruler!

Thanks!
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bobbyb13

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #57 on: July 18, 2022, 04:10:27 am »
Quote of Grandaddy of mine is "If it's worth doing at all, it's worth doing properly."
I take that one to heart, however...

For me at least I have adopted my approach to surfboard building to suit most other things.

I recognize my shortcomings, realize that I will make more of these superfluous things and simply use lessons learned on current iteration to make next better and press on.

Goal is to play the games on these.
I have a bunch more I want to play again before I'm dust and that means I have at least four more cabinets to build.

And that's just for me
 :)

I do admire your fortitude though!
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

EvilNuff

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #58 on: July 18, 2022, 09:46:30 am »
Here's the mini keyboard I bought for my bartop:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079L2C7J1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've used these mini Rii keyboard/mouse pads for years for various things and love them.  I second the recommendation.

To Zebidee, if you cut a thin strip of wood you can use that as a curved bending form as well.  If you cut the wood with even thickness you will get an even curve, if you cut it tapered you will get a curve favoring one side. 
« Last Edit: July 18, 2022, 09:48:23 am by EvilNuff »

Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #59 on: July 18, 2022, 03:30:40 pm »
... if you cut a thin strip of wood you can use that as a curved bending form as well.  If you cut the wood with even thickness you will get an even curve, if you cut it tapered you will get a curve favoring one side. 

Nice to know! Sounds a bit too advanced for me at this stage though!

Expect I'd probably just end up with lots of small broken bits of wood.

For me at least I have adopted my approach to surfboard building to suit most other things.

I feel that God or whatever gives all of us special talents for certain things. To deny that to the world would be a sin! So get out there and do it, be creative and productive.

Quote
I recognize my shortcomings, realize that I will make more of these superfluous things and simply use lessons learned on current iteration to make next better and press on.
...
I do admire your fortitude though!

Good principles, and thanks!

This cab will have to look good. It will go into the main house, replace the huge hulking hunk of arcade cab I have there now.

We often host our guesthouse visitors there, so it has to look attractive, neat and tidy, but not overbearing.

Therefore, it will be showcasing my talents (or otherwise), so I don't want to do a "meh" job. Not that I ever want to do meh jobs, but ya'all know what I mean :D

Spray painting will be fun I'm sure  :o

Not a lot of experience with the pressurised gun, so things may get messy. :scared

May start with the removable back access panel - if I screw up, nobody will see it anyway   :cheers:
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bobbyb13

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #60 on: July 18, 2022, 04:33:15 pm »
A test panel is of course the best approach.
The good thing about painting is that you can always sand out your drips and sags and hit it again!
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #61 on: July 18, 2022, 04:56:37 pm »
I've just been shopping online for some leveling legs and fixed 2" wheels.

I found some wheels in a colour similar to what I want to paint with! So that is a plus.

I want a small person to be able to tip it back, onto the wheels, to move it around.

Will take a little engineering, but I remain optimistic.

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vertexguy

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  • ...but this one goes to 11.
    • forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,161694.0.html
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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #62 on: July 18, 2022, 11:27:46 pm »
I dig those castors!

Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #63 on: July 19, 2022, 06:10:49 am »
These are the kind of gaps I find in this plywood. Completely hidden from above, big hole with only a sliver of wood hiding it. This is on the back side of the door.

This hole was only revealed after I took the metal hinge off. I didn't notice it earlier, but the wood might've been loose and just fell out. I've already gone over all the other exposed edges with wood glue, but this was covered until now.

There was a larger hole like that on the left side curve, which only got worse by bro running his finger along it, absent-mindedly picking off loose bits.

This one will obviously need a bit of putty. Ho hum.
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Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #64 on: July 20, 2022, 07:59:21 am »
Practiced by putting a thin layer of topcoat plaster over the back parts. Hard to convey in a photo, but it really looks totally shmick now, feels solid and smooth as, totally different to the uneven crumbly plywood.

Forgot to do the little "ears" sticking up - will catch them on the next round.

No paint as yet!

Gotta finish the topcoating first. Now going to go over the front panels and door.
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Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #65 on: July 20, 2022, 10:17:22 pm »
Did topcoating on the front & inside & door panels last night.

Was too humid, and started raining towards the end. Then continued to rain all night. Next morning I was rested and ready to sand, but is still wet. Hurrr, oh well.

At least I had enough smarts to move it away from the hole in the roof (where that tree, behind top/right, pokes out).

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bobbyb13

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #66 on: July 20, 2022, 11:36:18 pm »
Getting closer!
Lots of fill work though, wow.
Man, I need to be more grateful that I can get decent quality ply here.
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #67 on: July 21, 2022, 08:07:11 am »
Plastering is a bit like potato chips. Once you start you can't stop!

For the front parts, I went around the edges with putty first. Later, some sanding, then filled the middle with topcoat.

Those front bits are all done now, all smooth and shiny.

This second pic is where I am up to now, with one side. No putty this time, but I did use some topcoat around the edges. I then used a bit more topcoat (whatever I had left on my trowel, more or less) to cover the middle parts with a very thin layer (a little thicker in the middle-middle).

I did it this way because the area is quite large - if I try to plaster it all at once, I will just be moving sludge around and making a mess.

The edges, and the thin layer in the middle, will help the next layer of topcoat to stick and hold properly. ultimately I should use less plaster and get better results this way.

We'll see :D
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EvilNuff

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #68 on: July 21, 2022, 12:10:05 pm »
...
Man, I need to be more grateful that I can get decent quality ply here.

Same here, it just cost a stupid amount!  I picked up some 4x8 melamine the other day for an epoxy table pour form and really appreciate all the variety available.

Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #69 on: July 21, 2022, 12:24:10 pm »
Blue castors arrived.

I'm wheelly excited!

[EDIT: updated pic]
« Last Edit: July 21, 2022, 11:12:01 pm by Zebidee »
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Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #70 on: July 22, 2022, 07:32:58 pm »
So, I finished putting a very thin plaster layer on that side, a couple of nights ago.

However, it is rainy season and it rained all night. The plaster simply refused to go off/set/dry. Even with a fan on.

With morning temperature 24C at 6am, it starts to think about hardening.

It only really started to set close to midday, with temperature above 30C.

However, just as the plaster was starting to set, wrinkles appeared in two spots.

Press gently on the spots and you can feel it bounce slightly - there are gaps in the wood below, underneath a very thin outer veneer. Would be similar to a pic I posted earlier, large gap inside the plywood. That veneer got slightly wet from the plaster all night, then cracked and warped as the plaster dried. Faaaarkn ---smurfy--- plywood.

Would look something like this inside:





So I had to sand back and go over those spots again. Mounded up the plaster slightly. Another night, more rain, still not dry. Waiting until midday :/  Hoping it doesn't crack/warp this time. Taking too long.

Worried that I will have to wait for this persistent rain to ease up for painting (it is wet season)!
« Last Edit: July 22, 2022, 07:35:56 pm by Zebidee »
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EvilNuff

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #71 on: July 23, 2022, 06:24:28 pm »
What about something like bondo in the trouble spots so you don't have to wait for the plaster?

bobbyb13

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #72 on: July 23, 2022, 10:25:33 pm »
My guess is that the bigger issue with plaster in regard to those mystery voids that sneak up on you is water content.
The polyester in bondo probably would not bubble up those thin veneers hanging over air as readily I imagine.

Wish I could offer first hand plaster advice, but I've only ever used my secret sauce epoxy concoction- and I know not everybody has 2 part aluzine and microballoons just laying around.
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #73 on: July 24, 2022, 04:41:43 am »
I know Bondo is popular on BYOAC, but it is not ideal for wood. It is more for car smash repairs.

Unfortunately, Bondo creates issues. Like, it is inflexible, and won't expand or or move as the rest of the cab moves/expands/changes. Bondo won't work happily with the acrylics either.

Because Bondo is impervious to moisture, I expect the variable humidity (wet/dry seasons) would eventually make it crack away or even come out over time too.

Plaster is easy to work with and easy to sand. It breathes moisture like the wood. Easy to paint. Non-toxic. Easy to clean up (some water) and the waste can go to the garden. I don't get crap stuck to my fingers either (not much anyway).

With the plaster I can quickly go around the edges (I used acrylic putty around edges the inside/front panel edges, but mostly only used plaster on edges of the outside of the side panels) and a bit in the middle. Wait for that to dry off a bit, then put a thin layer of plaster across the rest, to fill in any tiny bumps. You don't have to be terribly precise or even level - it is easy to sand back, so you can build it up a little.

Don't think you can do all that with Bondo.

As I've progressed, I've been using less plaster. Fussing less. For the last large/outside side panel, I deliberately skimped on plaster in the middle parts. All I need is a thin layer fill the tiny gaps in grain of the plywood.

Where that bubble-up happened, I just sanded it back a bit and put a bit more plaster over top, another sand and it all seems to have settled down properly now.

I'm don't have huge experience with plastering, just know the principles.

I once sat down and shared some beers with a pro plasterer, while he was doing a small cash-job for me (plastering a wall).  Watching him work was amazing. He was lightning fast compared to me. He didn't even need to sand it back very much. I often find myself thinking of that time when doing such work.

Just finished - now to wait for it to dry (No rain today, but still humid). Then a quick sand and hopefully I can get painting tomorrow (have to buy paint!).

Will add pics if I can find my phone :P
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Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #74 on: July 24, 2022, 04:54:36 am »
In the time it took my to write that post, the plaster has already dried off. So let's call that 45 minutes tops.

All thanks to lower humidity - not even that hot today.

Gotta go feed cats and a swim student will arrive soon. Hah, she will see me with plastered fingers!

Still can't find that phone
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Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #75 on: July 24, 2022, 06:04:10 am »
Here we go - last side roughly plastered. You can see I was getting tired of it by the bottom part, pretty thin down there. Still, should be enough, no rough bits there. If not, another quick go-over.

There is a orange/black bug handing around on the plaster - I figured it isn't hurting anything so left it alone (I'm no entomologist, but orange/black is nature's way of saying "---fudgesicle--- off, I'll hurt you").

Anyway, I included this bug shot to give you a foreground subject, interest and context for the next pic, which hopefully indicates just how roughly you can apply the plaster (before sanding).

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EvilNuff

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #76 on: July 24, 2022, 09:14:52 pm »
I know Bondo is popular on BYOAC, but it is not ideal for wood. It is more for car smash repairs.

Unfortunately, Bondo creates issues. Like, it is inflexible, and won't expand or or move as the rest of the cab moves/expands/changes. Bondo won't work happily with the acrylics either.

Because Bondo is impervious to moisture, I expect the variable humidity (wet/dry seasons) would eventually make it crack away or even come out over time too.
...

Shouldn't have any problems with bondo in plywood.  Real wood yes definitely!  :)

Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #77 on: July 25, 2022, 02:29:10 am »
Shouldn't have any problems with bondo in plywood.  Real wood yes definitely!  :)

Plywood is real wood too! If I find something I can't fill with acrylic putty, then I'll give it a go ;)

I've done some great repair work with acrylic putty. Looking just at my sig, the red cab and both yellow cabs had some serious dings and some chunks missing when I bought them. The repairs are hard to spot.

On the other hand, I've seen some Bondo repairs that stand out like sore thumbs. Not much one can do about it either. Maybe those guys just had no skill  :dunno

Here's a neat acrylics putty tip for you. You can mix acrylic paint (moderate amounts) with the acrylic putty! Colour will usually be lighter than original as putty dilutes it. However, it makes it much easier to match original shades when painting later, adding colour "depth" and helping with the blending. This is even easier when dealing with primary colours as no colour mixing required. Note: too much paint will degrade the integrity of the putty, add in moderation.

That woody "Princess" cab, 4th from left in my sig, was literally junk when it was given to me. Many deep scratches and gouges, stinking of rats ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- & piss (had been a rat nest), water damage. I repaired and restored the wood laminate using acrylic putty and it is like new again. My repairs are invisible.

I mixed putty with the right shade of brown - for best result, choose the lightest shade commonly present in the woodgrain. Fill the big bits first. Then just apply very thinly, just to fill any cracks/holes. Very light sanding, use fine/old sandpaper. Then tung oil, couple of coats applied with a soft cloth (rub it in, no brush).

I got that woody Princess cab for free, restored it as above, put in an old 20" Teac CRT, put on some fresh art, threw in an ancient IPAC and a lovingly-made VGA-SCART cable (for the TV).  Flipped it quickly for $500, but people kept contacting me. Maybe I should've asked for more! Or kept it.

Pics for interest:

 


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Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #78 on: July 25, 2022, 05:00:08 am »
Had just done the last post, then flipped my Aussie lowboy around to check to other side, the one with the vertical cracks appearing...

and more of the same. These cracks appeared late, after I had sanded and moved onto the other side.

May be that the wood on this side is sucking the moisture from the plaster too hard, and/or the plaster layer is too thick.

In which case the only solution is even more plaster - but need to keep it thin.

Just redid it, very thinly - then realised I forgot to take pics of the cracks again.

I think I recall my plaster mate mentioning this, and the need to avoid it (like, by using thin coats and not doing it on wet days). I dunno, was a long time ago.  :dunno

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Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #79 on: August 03, 2022, 10:04:05 pm »
Prepping is done. Those cracks I dealt with. Just needed some very light plaster over top, some patience waiting for it to dry, and some sanding

Had to put-off spraying because we have had many guests (guesthouse) and then I don't like running the compressor or other power tools (we offer "peacefulness" here, rare thing these days). Also, raining most days, and often the heat (or humidity) is just too much for both the paint and me.

While I was waiting, added a few holes for fan, vent, power inlet.

Did a little work on mounting the wheels and back legs.

The best times are mornings, so up early.

I decided to go with acrylic paints in the end.

I am currently test-painting. So far, so good. Theory is: many light coats.

More pics in a moment.
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