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Author Topic: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel  (Read 18359 times)

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Zebidee

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Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« on: March 26, 2022, 11:00:43 pm »
Mostly I see people doing arcade builds with wooden control panels. There is nothing at all wrong with that, but I have a preference for working with metal control panels. I like the look and feel of metal panels, they seem to add a level of professionalism. So I thought I'd do one.

I've never made a metal control panel from scratch before. However, I have restored many arcade cabs previously, and had to replace old panels with new, so I had a fair idea of what was needed.

This is the cab I am fitting the metal control panel to. This is an older pic, and you may have seen this cab in other posts where I've talked about mounting CRTs. This cab has been in-progress for over three years, but we'll get it done eventually.


 


One complication to my plans was that I required the CP to be hinged. With a hinge, it is easy to open the panel and access switches, wires for servicing.

So I sourced some piano hinges. These came in lengths of 2 metres each. Then I cut a piece to the required width (53.4cm) with an angle grinder. The thing to be aware of here is to cut the hinge so that one half comes to the outside at both ends. That keeps it together. Otherwise the hinge halves can tend to come apart. I don't know if that all makes sense, but I'm not sure how else to explain it.

Here is a pic of the uncut piano hinge. Unfortunately I didn't take any separate pics of the cut hinge.





I carefully drew up some plans (left), and I actually used this piece of cardboard to mock-up the shape of the panel in place (You can still see the fold lines). Eventually I was happy, and headed off to a local metal shop. The guy there then drew-up his own interpretation of my plan (right).


 


At the metal shop there are a few things to keep in mind. First is that they can cut and bend metal sheet, but they can't do anything terribly fancy like large radius bends. Nor can they do small fiddly stuff well, the machines are too large. So it has to be simple. My design involves just 2 bends, at 90 degrees and at 45 degrees. In addition to the panel itself, I also got a right-angle bracket made for attaching it to the cab. While I was at the metal shop, I also grabbed a offcut strip of metal about 1cm wide - this will be useful for making clips later. It all went well.

The metal used is 1.5mm thick steel.


NEXT: Putting it all together
« Last Edit: April 10, 2022, 01:03:36 am by Zebidee »
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Zebidee

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Re: Hinged metal control panel
« Reply #1 on: March 26, 2022, 11:34:25 pm »
Putting it together

What I did first was to use gaffer tape (cloth tape) to temporarily connect the hinge onto the bottom of the panel and installed the right-angle bracket onto the cab. Then I was able to roughly put the CP into place, to see how it would sit.

I did a fair bit of trimming to size with my angle grinder, a file and some sandpaper. One thing to be aware of is sharp edges on freshly cut steel - so a good idea to grind them back too. Very easy to get a nasty cut otherwise.

Probably a good idea to wear proper shoes and eye protection when doing this, as it generates a lot of sparks. I wore safety goggles but was only wearing sandals, and a tiny piece of red-hot steel landed in between my toes. Not fun, very ouchie, but fortunately no permanent damage ;)

Interestingly I'd recently commented on another thread that I should probably wear better footwear in the workshop. Oh well.

I also cut the holes for joysticks and buttons because I wanted to work out where to put the clips (see below).

Eventually I was ready to go off to a local welder. I don't do welding, and I'm not about to learn. Very worthwhile getting someone who knows what they are doing for this part. I just explained what I wanted. The hinge metal is relatively thin and is easy to damage with improper welding technique. I went with my brother-in-law who knows more about welding than I do.

I got them to weld the hinge to a) the main CP and also b) to the right-angle bracket. Then asked them to cut 2 pieces about 5-6cm long each from the 1cm wide offcut (remember I collected this from the metal shop earlier?), and then bend those pieces into a "C" shape. Finally they weld those pieces onto the underside of the CP. These are clips that the clamps with grab onto when securing the CP.

Anyway, here are the results.











NEXT: Fitting the control panel
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Zebidee

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Re: Hinged metal control panel
« Reply #2 on: March 27, 2022, 12:33:32 am »
Fitting the control panel


Fitting the right-angle bracket on was pretty straight-forward.

I needed to add an extra piece of plywood underneath the CP, so that I could mount the clamps below. This plywood also provided a flat solid surface to the CP to be clamped down to.

Now I realised I'd positioned the button holes maybe 10mm higher than I should have, because the plywood now partly occluded a couple of buttons and part of the joysticks. So I got busy with my hammer and chisel to make some more room.


 


And here is how it looks when it all comes together.

Those with keen eyes may notice that I made a mistake when drilling holes for mounting the right-angle bracket. I drilled 6 holes for mounting M5 bolts, but one hole was 10mm out (I must have slipped the ruler without noticing). So I'll have to get busy with some putty and sandpaper later. Eventually I will replace the hex-head bolts you see here with carriage bolts (smooth domed head), but I need to paint their heads black first!


 


In general I'm quite happy with the way it has all come together. I was worried about there being a gap between the wood and the hinge, but there is really no gap at all. I can barely get the tip of a fingernail in there.

BTW, the paper tape on the left side of the cab is there to protect the T-molding groove from my aforementioned brother-in-law's wandering hands. He had a habit of running his finger down the curve while walking past, which was making the wood start to flake away from the unprotected edge. So, tape.

The CP also feels very solid. I'm sure I could pick the whole cab up by the CP, if I was stong enough. The panel in recessed from the wood edge by at least several millimetres, and once the T-molding is applied it will be perfect.

Speaking of strength, I did the last parts of this (assembly and installation) with my left arm in constant pain, and only roughly 25-50% capacity, from cubital tunnel syndrome (Ulnar nerve entrapment, at the elbow). So it took a while. My arm still has the problem, but has improved somewhat since with massage/rest/exercises.

Obviously the cab still has quite a way to go, but this is an important milestone. Next I'd like to get some glass done, mount some speakers above the monitor, and make a front door with a recessed mini-control panel (for credits/pause/admin/volume etc). Then some finishing and some art.

Speaking of art, I need something to cover the control panel. Currently it is just bare metal! I was thinking about using some 6D carbon-graphene vynil used for automotive detailing. Or maybe just black paint. I don't want anything too fancy. Suggestions?






« Last Edit: March 27, 2022, 03:27:27 am by Zebidee »
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bobbyb13

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Re: Hinged metal control panel
« Reply #3 on: March 27, 2022, 02:39:59 am »
Great to see you working on a cabinet!
Love the original template work
Simple and all that was needed obviously because the finished product turned out excellent.
Unfamiliar with those panel clamps though!
Never seen that style before.

I would hold off on what the control panel art should be until I had the rest (marquee, side and kick panels...) sorted myself.

Keep going!
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

Zebidee

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Re: Hinged metal control panel
« Reply #4 on: March 27, 2022, 03:18:31 am »
Great to see you working on a cabinet!
Love the original template work
Simple and all that was needed obviously because the finished product turned out excellent.
Unfamiliar with those panel clamps though!
Never seen that style before.

I would hold off on what the control panel art should be until I had the rest (marquee, side and kick panels...) sorted myself.

Keep going!

Thanks for the encouragement Bobby :cheers:

I think I know the kind of clamps you're probably more familiar with, common in arcades (with a slightly springy, slightly U shaped arm?), but I couldn't find any like that locally.

The clamps I used are manufactured by a local company and do the same thing. I had my doubts at first, but they are actually a bit easier to hook-in and lock down. They have a quite high load rating, though I can't remember exactly what it is off top of my head. Also, with that threaded arm they are very easy to adjust for the right tension.

Think I'll focus on getting it to "lockup stage" for now rather than worrying about art too much.

This project wasn't stupidly expensive either. The metal CP itself, cut and folded, only cost about $20, though I know steel prices have risen since then. The welding was another $15. But that was in Thailand. Probably at least 5 times that in US or Australia (OK, $175 for a CP would be starting to sound expensive). Can't recall how much the piano hinge and clamps were, bought them a while back, but it wasn't a huge amount.
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lomoverde

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Re: Hinged metal control panel
« Reply #5 on: April 01, 2022, 05:11:20 pm »
I love the idea of making a metal CP for my next build.When I was serving my apptrenticeship many years ago,I spent a lot of hours in the fab shop,Id love the use of a decent brake and pedestal drill now for the job.

Yours looks excellent mate.

I actually should have bought your style of clamps for my current build,Similar to what my pool table uses:

https://www.arcadexpress.com/en/accesories/438-juego-cierre-abrazadera-panel-control-regulable-recreativa-bartop-.html


However I cheaped out and bought these:

https://www.arcadexpress.com/en/accesories/185-juegos-cierres-panel-de-control.html

Not real easy to position the clamp accurately,And found i had to bend the arm a bit more to get a real tight pull on it.They have an overall substandard feel to them.   :(

Zebidee

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Re: Hinged metal control panel
« Reply #6 on: April 02, 2022, 12:19:21 am »
Thanks mate!

No fancy drills used for this project! Would love a good pedestal drill setup, but have to rely on a steady hand, :lol

Speaking of steady hands, the CP on this should be better for mine (issue noted above). With the slight angle and no prominent wood/T-molding at the front, I'm hoping for less aggravation of my condition.

So yeah, easier than you might think. I drilled the holes myself, but the steel cutting/bending/welding was all done at shops. So no special skills required to do it. Cutting the steel requires big machines you should keep your fingers away from. The welding needs some experience and skill as well as proper workshop gear. However, go and ask, you may find it cheaper than you think, especially if you have a solid plan (or sample piece) and the guys are otherwise just sitting around in the workshop (as I often find).

If you are impressed with their low price, you can buy a six-pack for them to enjoy at the end of the day. If the price is high, they can buy their own!

Every clamp has some kind of spring or adjustment mechanism, to give it some range. The clamps you used, which are good and I was originally looking for in fact, have that "spring" range built into the curved metal arm. The ones I used, like your pool table latches, are easy to adjust with the threaded arm. If a bit loose or tight, just give the arm a couple of turns and it will be alright. I find them easier to latch-on to the clip from underneath too.

I'm actually off to the metal shop again today, to get a few more pieces cut for this cab. I need some right angle-brackets and a fascia piece for the area above the monitor, where the speakers will go. Some of the angle brackets will be welded to a long piano hinge for use with the front door as well.

« Last Edit: April 02, 2022, 03:44:47 am by Zebidee »
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bobbyb13

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Re: Hinged metal control panel
« Reply #7 on: April 02, 2022, 02:49:34 am »
Refreshments can go a long way!

Look forward to the next bit of progress.
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #8 on: April 10, 2022, 12:55:21 am »
I've done a bit more work on the Aussie lowboy cab.

I went back to the metal shop and got a few more bits cut. Total of 12 pieces. This lot cost me the princely sum of 400 baht, around US$15. The manager remembered me and I indulged him by doing show-and-tell on my completed control panel (it was easy to take off cab and bring into the shop), and tipped them and extra 100 baht (enough for a bottle of local rice whiskey, enough for 2-4 people to get a bit pissed in the evening). Also included is a pic of my incredibly detailed hi-tec plans.

 


The largest flat pieces are covers to go above the monitor, where the speakers will be. The smaller flat pieces are for the kickboard (area at front, below where the door will go, where players will tend to kick the cab).

The right angle brackets will have various purposes. They are for control panel hinges, front door hinges, and for the marquee. Yes you read that right, I plan to use a piano hinge (larger one) for the front door as well, so will need right-angle brackets for that. I upgraded the size of the brackets from 2x2cm to 2x3cm, to give more room for supporting screws.

I can also use 2x3 metal brackets for securing the marquee at top.

Why so many pieces? I am already planning the cab I will build after this one. After that, I may churn out a few more, having established local capabilities. Planning for the future.

Here is how the cab looks with the metal piece for the speakers, above the monitor, trimmed and temporarily put in place. The speaker covers are just blu-tacked into place for the photo, I will measure it out properly and finish that off later, not important for now. What *is* important is that now I can secure that top piece, and I can get the glass guy to come over and cut a 6mm piece of glass to go over the monitor.

For reference, under the top piece above the monitor, I have put a piece of 8mm thick plywood. It is slightly shorter than the metal, by about 1cm. This means there is an overlap, which goes over the glass. There is a similar, though much smaller, blocking piece at the bottom. You cannot see it in the picture. That 8mm plywood brings the metal piece up, allowing room for the glass to slide underneath. I expect there to be be a small gap, at top and bottom of the glass, but this can be closed with a piece of rubber strip. Or maybe a glued strip of felt at top. More on that in next post.

   
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bobbyb13

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #9 on: April 10, 2022, 01:36:41 am »
I like your front glass capture plan.

Score on the local metalwork!
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #10 on: April 10, 2022, 02:05:54 am »
I like your front glass capture plan.

Thanks Bobby.

My plan is to enable removal of glass by simply un-clipping the control panel. Which will be easy (so long as you have a key to get inside and undo the clips). Even so, glass will remain safely in place until you specifically choose to lift it out.

Quote
Score on the local metalwork!

I think most localities will have similar metal shops. You will just need to ask around. I'm sure a tradie like yourself would know a few contacts already. A bit of a smile and a chat, a thought-out plan, maybe some pics on the phone, and all should be fine. They are all looking for extra work if they can fit it in. Prices might be a little higher where you are, but hopefully not too much.
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Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #11 on: June 15, 2022, 08:36:11 pm »
I've been doing some work on the sound system for this lowboy.

This cab will spend most of its time in the house, and my missus will mostly use it for playing music (and the occasional Tetris). So I decided to put a decent amp and speakers into it!

I found these 4" full-range 50W 8 ohm speakers. They were the best I could find locally. They were not cheap, but not super-expensive either (around US$50-60 for the pair). I matched the speakers with a board amp, ZX-502MT (< US$10) which is able to power 2x50W speakers.


 


I also sourced a 24v/200W/10A power supply for the amp. This is probably a bit of overkill (specs recommend at least 3A PSU), but it didn't cost much more and I'd prefer to have extra power available than not enough.

I then went and setup the system to give it a test. At first it sounded quite average. But then I put the speakers into some old cardboard boxes (for resonance) and they sounded a bit better.





Finally, I added Zobel terminations across the speaker terminals. This improved the sound quality considerably by reducing signal oscillations, adding warmth and tone while removing excess vibrations etc when music hit extremes. (Note there is no physical connection between the cap/resistor added and the copper braid speaker wires below, they are separated by nearly an inch, they just look connected due to 2D photo.)





This Zobel termination is simply a 0.1uF (104) 50v ceramic capacitor and a 33 ohm 3W metal film resistor connected, in series, between the positive and negative speaker terminals. I already had the capacitors (I have > 1000 104 caps!) and resistors on-hand, so this cost me nothing. Similar to video signal termination, it helps to remove stray signals and interference from speaker cables.

The Zobel termination made a big difference to the sound quality for about 2 cents worth of materials. Even if you don't know anything about your speaker/amp impedance characteristics, almost any speaker would benefit from a 104 ceramic cap + 10 ohm resistor (1W rating should be enough) Zobel. For more on Zobel terminations, please read articles by Rod Elliot: https://sound-au.com/cable-z.htm

Next post, I'll show you how I added the speakers to the cab (not easy!).





« Last Edit: June 15, 2022, 10:48:44 pm by Zebidee »
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bobbyb13

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #12 on: June 15, 2022, 10:46:50 pm »
Love this tip- thank you!
I have so much more to learn.

Those speakers look pretty fancy actually, what with that crazy cone on them.
Special material of some sort?

Glad to see you back at a project Andrew!
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #13 on: June 15, 2022, 11:13:36 pm »
Love this tip- thank you!
I have so much more to learn.

Those speakers look pretty fancy actually, what with that crazy cone on them.
Special material of some sort?

Glad to see you back at a project Andrew!

Cheers Bobby! I've been plodding along with the project, just saving the posts until I have some decent pics to show ;)

Here is the link from where I bought the speakers. Mostly in Thai, but you can work out the specs:
https://www.lazada.co.th/products/i2743344860-s10801556294.html?urlFlag=true&mp=1

I wouldn't describe myself as an audiophile, but these guys seem to know their speakers. In addition, they have magnetic shielding so I know they are going to be safe near a CRT.

I assume that the silver cone bit is for high frequencies. It sticks out above the surface plane a little, so I had to be careful fitting them. The yellow "petals" seem to be some kind of silicon, and get some crazy vibration going when the bass kicks in.

I mounted the speakers into their faceplate. They are bigger than I anticipated (obviously they are 4" speakers, but they are fairly heavy and their butts stick out a lot), but will fit into the cab (barely!).








See how the metal sticks out a bit more than the wood? That is to accommodate the glass when fitted, the metal will stick out, giving a slot for the glass to slip into. The tape will be removed later, and of course I will eventually pull it all apart again to paint.
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Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #14 on: June 16, 2022, 12:47:43 am »
I know you want more, so here is is.

I added the speaker panel onto the cab, slipped the glass in (5mm standard clear), and secured the control panel, so you can see how it will look  8)






The glass is very easy to install/replace, yet held very securely at both top and bottom. To remove just unclip the control panel from inside and fold it out, and the glass can be lifted up.

I've added some automotive rubber trim to the edge of the control panel, where it seals with the glass to prevent accidental moisture from penetrating. It is the same kind of trim that you buy for car door/window seals. This strip is not glued down, so I can remove it for painting and glue it in later. You can buy auto door rubber seals that come with an adhesive strip already in place, so installing it is very simple.





I mounted the speakers facing up/outward, rather than putting them up into the marquee cavity, facing down. This is a bit different to most Aussie lowboy designs. I did this, at least partly, because the speakers I wanted to put in would be too large otherwise. Also, I didn't want the speakers shadowing/interfering with the marquee light-box arrangement. Finally, I wanted the sound to "project" as much as possible, for better or worse.

On the other hand, the speakers will gather dust more easily, and use surfaces that could otherwise be used for art and/or instructions. Some will argue it would sound better if reflected off a flat surface. Well, whatever, they are now in and will be the way they are.

Because the speakers are quite heavy, so as a precaution I've added a wooden support underneath, just below the speakers but above the glass.  However, because the speakers butts are so large, I have to screw that in AFTER putting the speakers in place. Oh what fun!

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #15 on: June 16, 2022, 05:50:23 am »
Wow Zeb - this project is really coming along.  Absolutely love the metal work - it does look professional!  I’m also a huge fan of the overall shape of this cabinet - looks very comfortable to stand and play at.  The footprint looks a bit smaller than it otherwise would be with the monitor at less of an angle, which is awesome for home use. 

Have you made any progress on artwork?

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #16 on: June 16, 2022, 06:44:18 am »
Wow Zeb - this project is really coming along.  Absolutely love the metal work - it does look professional!  I’m also a huge fan of the overall shape of this cabinet - looks very comfortable to stand and play at.  The footprint looks a bit smaller than it otherwise would be with the monitor at less of an angle, which is awesome for home use. 

Have you made any progress on artwork?

Thanks! I've been trying to keep it to the pro standard of "real" cabs I've worked with over the years.

I've designed it with small people, younger kids in mind. It couldn't be too large and overbearing. Easily usable by a standing 8-14 year old (approx 160cm max). A little small for me, though I could sit on a stool.

Thanks also for raising artwork javery, I've just been discussing that (again) with my wife.

She wants side-art (dammit). When I ask her "what art?", she use to just say "Sailor Moon", as though that closed the issue forever. She now just says something like "Studio Ghibli", she enjoyed the cartoon novels as a kid. Fine, but "what art?", What images, appropriate high-quality images have you collected for us to work with, to think about, sort through? Nothing. At. All.

I feel that I will need to not only find the appropriate art myself, for a theme that is not of my choosing, but will regardless have to clear it past the committee first. Ho-hum.

On the positive side, we seem to have located a local business capable of appropriately printing the art... once we have it.

My cynical self's rough plan for the marquee, for now, is to write "ARCADE" with a magic marker across the paper protecting the plexiglass. Until I think of something better and get it past the committee anyway.

In the meantime, I am maintaining my optimism in the face of apathy and progressing as though all will magically fall into place. So I have been figuring out how to prep/smooth off the plywood surfaces for painting or art application. Unfortunately, all that woodgrain will eventually be lost to time, like flowers that are beautiful but not last, or tears in the rain...

<Zeb releases dove>
« Last Edit: June 16, 2022, 06:47:04 am by Zebidee »
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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #17 on: June 17, 2022, 05:41:30 pm »
If you want to have artwork and keep the grain, you could maybe use the 'ink transfer to wood' method, which is basically printing the artwork to something that doesn't absorb the ink, then press that to the wood, thereby transferring most of the ink to the wood. There are plenty of youtube vids that show you how it's done.

On my pinup cab, I transferred the artwork to the wood, masked it off, put a coat of clear lacquer on it and the stained the wood. Came out great.



The same lady stained:



                  

Zebidee

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #18 on: June 17, 2022, 07:54:48 pm »
That's a great idea yamatetsu. I like what you've done, looks good on your cab, will keep it in mind for the future. However, the quality of the woodgrain in this plywood is "marginal", not like on your cab. With a bit of putty, love and some teak oil it would look OK, but it isn't like an oak or walnut veneer.

I've also made choices along the way that have made painting/artwork the only option. Unlike the neat classic "Tully" cab design, the only way I could cut all pieces from a single sheet of plywood was to "flip" one side (blame the bit that sticks out to accommodate the control panel). So the right side looks a bit crappy.

I made that decision to flip a side over three years ago. Interesting to note that at the time, I was cutting the sheet under our house, where I have very limited headroom. This low headroom and tight space made it basically impossible to even turn the 1200mm x 2400mm (4'x8') plywood to inspect, so I just assumed both sides were more-or-less the same and it wouldn't matter (and in any case, I was assuming paint/print for the side art). It was only after this that I realised just how crappy the other side looked, but ah well it doesn't matter.

Anyway back to the present, and yesterday I think I may have talked some solid sense into my wife. I explained that it would be better to keep it simple, as will be in the house. Too much fancy graphics is not so good on something that is essentially furniture. I like simple elegance, I like things that are designed and fit for specific purpose. So, I wouldn't want to apply art that does not reflect that specific purpose, if you know what I mean. Some random Studio Ghibli cartoon print (what wife was suggesting) on an arcade cab does not reflect purpose.

I did propose some game-related art, say Tetris (she likes that game), but she rejected that.

So, currently I am thinking to paint (or cover with sticker/laminate!) the sides in solid pastel magenta. A mid-deep blue with a touch of pinky/purple. Would be attractive to little kids (target audience). Easier to do. Simple, neat, elegant, fit-for-purpose, not distracting.

The metal parts (e.g. speakers, control panel) will just be black with a semi-gloss finish. That's great because, again, I don't have to do any art, just prep the surfaces and spray. There will be some space above the control panel, about one inch high, where I can put simple instructions (under the glass). The monitor well will be matt black too (I need to make a bezel!).

There is enough room between the speakers to put some kind of art/print, but for now I will leave it black and art can come later.

I already have some decent art/files for printing up some generic marquees. I'll just use one of these for now, unless wife wants to make up something else.

NEXT: Front cabinet door
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yamatetsu

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #19 on: June 18, 2022, 05:49:24 am »
My cynical self's rough plan for the marquee, for now, is to write "ARCADE" with a magic marker across the paper protecting the plexiglass. Until I think of something better and get it past the committee anyway.

So, currently I am thinking to paint (or cover with sticker/laminate!) the sides in solid pastel magenta. A mid-deep blue with a touch of pinky/purple. Would be attractive to little kids (target audience). Easier to do. Simple, neat, elegant, fit-for-purpose, not distracting.

That reminds me of a lowboy that I found while looking for inspiration way back in '16. Simple, yet elegant.



Zebidee-style:

                  

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #20 on: June 18, 2022, 11:09:31 am »
 :laugh2:  I love it!  Very similar, nothing fussy  :cheers:

Today I got busy making a back door for the cab. I want to test out the speakers in situ, but they won't sound good until I get the back door in.

However I didn't take photos, as back doors are not terribly exciting. Is really just a rectangle of plywood and some blocking pieces. I got it about 90% done before I had to eat/sleep.

EDIT: This "Holden" Aussie lowboy project from 15 years ago is one of my inspirations:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=54567.0
« Last Edit: June 18, 2022, 11:14:28 am by Zebidee »
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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #21 on: June 18, 2022, 04:25:26 pm »
It really is a cool form factor.
Funny that a bunch of the 4 player games that I like (Gauntlet, TMNT, Simpsons, etc.) have a similar vibe in screen angle, overall cabinet shape and depth, and such.
I always felt like the screen angle was a bit too on the sore C7 pitch but I may need to rethink that!

Also, Andrew gets extra points for poetic flourish in previous post and yamatetsu for superior marquee graphical representation.
 :lol
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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #22 on: June 18, 2022, 06:52:54 pm »
It really is a cool form factor.
Funny that a bunch of the 4 player games that I like (Gauntlet, TMNT, Simpsons, etc.) have a similar vibe in screen angle, overall cabinet shape and depth, and such.
I always felt like the screen angle was a bit too on the sore C7 pitch but I may need to rethink that!

Also, Andrew gets extra points for poetic flourish in previous post and yamatetsu for superior marquee graphical representation.
 :lol

One of the great things about this basic design's form factor is that you can adapt it in several ways.

First, you can make the marquee higher and lift the screen, including making the angle steeper.

I have already cut the sides for an adult shmup variant of this Aussie lowboy along these lines! Taller, CP bit higher, and screen angle higher.

Second, you can make  it wider for a more relaxed adult streetfighter-type setup (check out cab third from left on my signature, the yellow laid-back cab, it is an example of this).

Mix and match as you wish.

My intention is to use this first cab as my prototype. Then to pump out 6-10 of them (powered by GreenAntz) for various purposes.
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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #23 on: June 19, 2022, 05:00:32 am »
The inspiration is awesome.
I won't live long enough to make what I want to!

Thanks Andrew- on numerous fronts.

CP height at 37-38" is a requirement at this point (shorter people can get a step-stool) as I build for myself.

If I make more than 2 of anything it is because I found somebody to fund an arcade/roller-rink venture out here!
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #24 on: June 19, 2022, 03:15:22 pm »
Lockup stage!

I got the front door fitted today. I also fitted a simple panel to close up the back (not pictured). As a tribute to yamatetsu, I got the magic marker out :D  8)





While I was there, I changed the hex-head bolts for the control panel for carriage bolts, to match the ones used on the door. In case you are wondering, I used a small chisel to carefully square the top of the bolt holes.

I am starting to think I will leave the carriage bolt heads chrome, instead of painting them black like I was thinking a while back. Once I put a bit of colour on the door/sides, I think they will "pop" nicely! A little bit of bling doesn't hurt.

You can see here how the door hinge will just sneak in below the T-molding! More on this in a moment.


 


Here is how the door looks before installation:

FRONT:





BACK:





For the door hinge, I used the same technique as already used on the control panel - and welded an L bracket onto one half of the piano hinge. This got a little trickier though, because I used a larger piano hinge for the door.

The large hinge, and needing to sneak it in under the T-molding, created some issues. The L-bracket came out too far from the door! Of course, this only became glaringly apparent after the welding.

Another issue was that the welded hinge was a little off a proper right angle. So I fired up the table saw, angled the blade very slightly to match the angle of the hinge, and shaved a little off the end contacting the hinge.





To pull the hinge in, I used some washers to "shim" out the hinge, at back, to the right position. You could also cut a piece of wood to size, but throwing the washers in was easy. Oh, and the carriage bolts I bought were too short now, so I had to buy longer ones! Ah well. I got to use the shorter carriage bolts for the control panel anyway.





Now this may shock you - I plan to cut a hole in that door! I want to put a mini-control panel in there, maybe about 4" x 6", which will accommodate credit/pause/admin buttons, a volume control and USB ports. Maybe headphone port too! More on that later.



The inspiration is awesome.
I won't live long enough to make what I want to!

Thanks Andrew- on numerous fronts.

CP height at 37-38" is a requirement at this point (shorter people can get a step-stool) as I build for myself.

If I make more than 2 of anything it is because I found somebody to fund an arcade/roller-rink venture out here!

You inspire me too mate. I'm particularly impressed with how quickly you can whip up a quality cab, and your work with materials like fibreglass. I'm slow, spend too much time thinking/planning, though I speed up when I get a fire in my belly.

Interestingly, even though this cab's designed for smaller folks, the control panel is still at about 36". There isn't really a lot of difference, comes down to just a few inches. Stools are great equalisers.

Ultimately, like many of us, I'd like to have a handful of cabs to cover off most of the games we like to play. Also would like some "dedicated" cabs, or at least plain JAMMA, to run my boards in. We often have guests here (we run a guesthouse) so want that available for them. Would also be great to make some extras to sell and recoup my costs!

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #25 on: June 20, 2022, 03:32:14 am »
As a tribute to yamatetsu, I got the magic marker out :D  8)




Nice! Next time, use a neon marker to give it that 80's vibe...
                  

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #26 on: June 21, 2022, 06:23:12 pm »
Hm. I guess my sneaky pic was a bit too sneaky. Or not worth a comment. Oh well.
                  

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #27 on: June 21, 2022, 08:34:28 pm »
Hm. I guess my sneaky pic was a bit too sneaky. Or not worth a comment. Oh well.

:lol I love it of course. I just hope that is a heart <3
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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #28 on: June 22, 2022, 02:42:56 am »
I was concerned about what the image on the screen might be, but was more concerned that if I said something that the real answer might give me bad dreams.
 :)
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #29 on: June 22, 2022, 03:39:45 am »
I just hope that is a heart <3

Errrm, no. I looked at the speakers and the monitor and saw a face going 'O', so I added a tongue sticking out. I guess it isn't as obvious as I thought.
                  

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #30 on: June 22, 2022, 04:27:30 am »
Cranking up the silliness a notch.

                  

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #31 on: June 22, 2022, 06:27:37 am »
Crikey! Now I get it.

I was only slightly concerned, because I thought it looked a bit like a butt. Butt (sic) then I thought a "heart" was a better interpretation.

If you look carefully at my pic of the amp, you can a faint heart there. That is because I plopped it on top of a swim lesson plan I'd done earlier (breaststroke). The heart (or is it a butt?) is to describe the shape of how you move your hands/arms for the pull. When teaching, I prefer to think of it as a heart, so that is where my mind was at :D

There you go, a bit of Freudian interpretation to enlighten your day.


 
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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #32 on: June 30, 2022, 12:31:09 am »
I installed speakers and a chassis for the CRT, and tested the sound system.

Sounds bloody awesome! The speakers benefit a lot from being in the cab, it gives them some resonance.

Now, two key things.

First, I need to paint. So I need to pull stuff apart again and prep surfaces.

Second, I've been thinking to put a mini-control panel into the front door. USB ports, volume control, buttons for pause/credit/admin. I've done these plenty of times before on other cabs (some low-res examples are in my sig), mounting them behind the coin door hole of rennovated old cabs. A little bit fiddly, will take me some time. Think of it as a replacement for a coin door.

That means routing out a hole in the door. I'm kinda doing this is the wrong order, probably should have done the door hole before mounting the hinge but oh well, here we are.

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #33 on: June 30, 2022, 01:52:08 am »
Are you talking about hanging a bracket inside that door to keep the look outside so clean?

If you are essentially gutting it for paint then you can always tip it on its back to make the cutting process easier.

What size/ shape hole and will it too be hinged?
I love these little re-engineering/solution based bits.

Since the Paperboy I have been making my kickpanels removable (screwed onto 1" thick braces carrying the panel from the inside) so that at any point in the future I can change my mind about coin door- or not.
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #34 on: June 30, 2022, 06:46:36 am »
I mean cutting a hole into the door, and mounting a mini-control panel in there.

I've done this many times, though it has been when rennovating old cabs for home use. However, in all those cases, the hole has already been there in the door - I just removed the coin mech and installed a custom control panel.

What is new this time is that I will have to cut the hole! I haven't done these kinds of cuts with a router before. Still, nothing too complicated, should be straightforward.

I'm going to follow up by attaching a bunch of pics of old work that I've done. Hopefully they are self-explanatory.

To start with, here is one of my cabs, with a small front door (loved the woodgrain on that one):









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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #35 on: June 30, 2022, 06:51:26 am »
Moar mini-control panel porn for your enjoyment
« Last Edit: June 30, 2022, 06:56:53 am by Zebidee »
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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #36 on: June 30, 2022, 07:01:03 am »
This one has a DVD player built in!

I case you are wondering, no glue and the whole thing comes apart easily. However, when assembled, you can lean your entire body weight on the DVD cage and it won't move!

You can tell I did this a long time ago, back when people still cared about DVDs!

I used an old dinner place mat for the face piece.
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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #37 on: June 30, 2022, 07:03:23 am »
On this one (Mortal Kombat themed), it already had a door. So I installed the DVD player inside!



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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #38 on: June 30, 2022, 01:48:21 pm »
I get it now!
Hadn't realized there was that much going on in those.

I need to rethink my concept of admin stuff now.
 :)
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Re: Aussie lowboy with hinged metal control panel
« Reply #39 on: June 30, 2022, 03:05:55 pm »
I get it now!
Hadn't realized there was that much going on in those.

I need to rethink my concept of admin stuff now.
 :)

Thanks!

I haven't seen anybody else do admin or mini-control panels like this! Most people seem to be happy with a coin door. That's great for replica arcade cabs, but for a true home "games system" cab you don't need a coin door. But you do need some extra control panel space for those "admin" functions.

As the mini-control panel is mounted BEHIND the hole, recessed, you won't really bang it with your knees either (I try!). I paint the exposed insides of the hole with multiple coats of Japan Black stain, until the wood won't take any more, then sand it smooth and give it a little more.

The black face plates I fashioned with 5mm high-density MDF craft wood, but the final look and feel is more like light steel or hard plastic, like a control panel should be. There are about a dozen layers of paint! Would also not be hard to fashion them out of cut sheet steel. I may try that this time.

In most cases I mounted the USB/audio PCB (often removed from the PC front panel) by taking some scrap plywood and carefully making a slot by removing one or more ply layers. The the PCB just slides in neatly.
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