A schematic would help a lot. However, there is a lot you can do, even without a schematic. There is also a lot you can simply check without removing parts.
First, check the ABL pot for ohms with DMM to make sure it is OK. Reset it to original position (I hope you marked it before moving). You don't normally want to adjust this. It is probably set with reference to a service manual and a multimeter or even an oscilloscope. It may have taken a little while for the circuit to fail after you adjusted this, so the good news is it may have had nothing to do with your screwdriver. Except for when you used it to turn the pot
Problem is going to be the SMPS power supply. So, mostly the areas you showed in your pics plus a bit more around the flyback etc. Then, if you can find the optocoupler (which sits across the hot/cold sides, provides isolated feedback and initiates shutdown if needed), that and the parts in between would be most of the power supply apart from some local DC voltage regulators.
So, check all the diodes in that power supply area with your DMM (diode setting ofc). Black on cathode, red on anode ends. Mostly you get 300-900mV. Swap leads you should get OL or high resistance, maybe similar to first reading if there are other diodes/paths in the circuit. If you get dead shorts or low resistances/OL both ways then it may be blown (when in circuit you can get weird readings, remove a leg to double-check). Diodes can blow with no apparent damage.
Start with the big power diodes near the primary transformer, the big yellow one, on the COLD side. You can blow the main B+ power diode and still have standby power (the LED lights). Check the smaller diodes glass too, especially around the flyback and the optocoupler and even the opto itself, as it provides power feedback/shutdown and is connected to the B+. Some diodes may be designed to blow to protect the circuit.
Check resistors, ohms. Again, some may be designed to blow and protect the circuit, and if you are lucky that is all. Resistor failure may be obvious, burn marks, heat scarring on PCB, something to look for. Mostly you are looking for dead shorts or values that are way off. Be aware that some large high-wattage resistors in power supply may have very low ohms.
Check all transistors in the area, big and small. Use diode setting on DMM. Check HOT. What the YT videos usually won't tell you is that it is normal to see a dead short between base and emitter while in circuit, but you should have normal B-C and C-E readings. A failed HOT may mean you get false negatives when checking the main power diodes, and vice-versa, but for double-checking it is easier to remove a diode leg than to remove the HOT
Always remember that some very high voltages are used in these areas, Always exercise extreme caution, especially live, even if you know what you are doing. Consider avoiding otherwise. Understand where the grounds are so you don't get zapped. Isolation transformer recommended for safety.
See, simple