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Wg k7000? Bad focus, or dim picture (solved)
abispac:
--- Quote from: Zebidee on October 29, 2021, 06:44:30 pm ---Give it a bit of a clean maybe. However, you want to inspect closely for stuff like leaky caps first. You don't want to wash away the evidence before you've seen it.
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I saw a couple of leaked caps and i know wich ones they are, but im gonna replace as much caps as i can, do you think its a good practice to replacerts even though they dont need to be replaced? like ive seen some burned looking resistors. Also ive seen the ic1 and ic3 can cause a problem similar to the one i saw in this monitor, like partially collapsed, also this model does not have the 50/60 pot, so i guess ill have to get me a groovymame pc with emudrivers in order to have a test machine and start posting some real pictures, but before that ill try to replace the caps.
Zebidee:
--- Quote from: abispac on October 30, 2021, 02:32:23 pm ---
--- Quote from: Zebidee on October 29, 2021, 06:44:30 pm ---Give it a bit of a clean maybe. However, you want to inspect closely for stuff like leaky caps first. You don't want to wash away the evidence before you've seen it.
--- End quote ---
I saw a couple of leaked caps and i know wich ones they are, but im gonna replace as much caps as i can, do you think its a good practice to replacerts even though they dont need to be replaced?
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Many people will simply "shotgun" replace all the electrolytic caps every 5-10 years. Leaky caps should definitely be replaced, but replacing all the caps just in case one is a little wonky. I personally don't, because it is unnecessary and wasteful. In most cases the caps will be perfectly fine for 30 years or more.
Instead, I use a Dick Smith ESR (equivalent series resistance) meter to check caps instead - With it, you can check capacitors without even removing them from the chassis/PCB. An ESR meter will detect bad electro caps about 99% of the time. The ESR meters are not terribly expensive and usage is similar to a standard digital multimeter. Recommended for anybody that wants to be serious about electronics repair, especially CRTs. If you think you may be recapping more than one CRT in your lifetime, consider getting an ESR meter instead.
--- Quote ---like ive seen some burned looking resistors. Also ive seen the ic1 and ic3 can cause a problem similar to the one i saw in this monitor, like partially collapsed, also this model does not have the 50/60 pot, so i guess ill have to get me a groovymame pc with emudrivers in order to have a test machine and start posting some real pictures, but before that ill try to replace the caps.
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Although heat scarring can indicate a failure there (or nearby), it is not always a problem as resistors can get a bit hot normally. So test the resistors with your DMM (you should be able to get away without lifting a leg, typically common metal or carbon film resistors fail in OPEN state, though there are exceptions like solid carbon resistors that just slowly get worse).
abispac:
So today on my wg k7000 19" ,after buying a cap kit, i did most of the bigger caps and let the small ones for tomorrow. I checked most of the stuff Michael Jensen checks on his videos (thanks master for all the great info on your repair videos). Hooked my monitor to my ISO transformer, and the monitor turned on, still with the same problem, as you can see in the picture, the screen seems twisted, this is just the monitor with nothing plugged in, tomorrow ill set up a groovyma… See more
lilshawn:
probably just a simple as turning your flyback screen control adjustment and/or brightness down. it looks like its turned up too high showing the retrace.
it does not appear to have a neck board transistor issue judged by the color I'm seeing, but it could just be the way you took the picture or how the camera interprets the color... but it is a possibility. Once you have a proper signal fed into it, it should be pretty obvious what the issue is.
get a good CRT test pattern with an SMPTE test pattern or one with some RGB sections on it and see what it looks like. it should become pretty obvious where your issue is and if you have a stuck or missing color.
abispac:
--- Quote from: lilshawn on November 02, 2021, 10:47:06 am ---probably just a simple as turning your flyback screen control adjustment and/or brightness down. it looks like its turned up too high showing the retrace.
it does not appear to have a neck board transistor issue judged by the color I'm seeing, but it could just be the way you took the picture or how the camera interprets the color... but it is a possibility. Once you have a proper signal fed into it, it should be pretty obvious what the issue is.
get a good CRT test pattern with an SMPTE test pattern or one with some RGB sections on it and see what it looks like. it should become pretty obvious where your issue is and if you have a stuck or missing color.
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Thanks for the advice, ive been getting alot of help from a facebook group especialy from a guy named Michael Jensen, the twisted problem was the neck being loosed, and the colors was a purity problem, moving the neck solved both problems, then after some adjustments i got nearly perfect picture ,ecept i misiing some focus, so ima finish caping this thing, and if the focus does not get any better i might buy the flyback to get this bad boy back to new.