There is a lot of discussion going on here. He doesn't even have a 3D printer yet.
There is a lot of discussion going on here. He doesn't even have a 3D printer yet.
He definitely can't say he didn't know what to expect at least.
lol no I don't but Im definitely getting one buttons or not cause there's other stuff I want to do with it
I've been wanting one for years just waiting for the quality of the printers to come up and the price to come down and I think that time has come.
I'll definitely be asking for advise when I get around to trying to design and print a button.
I've got some electric ice on order and if I can mode those it will eliminate the need to print buttons.. but I still want to try at some point
The reason I asked before I have one is because I needed to know if it was viable alternative.. as there are not many options on the market..
near as I can tel you have Randy's Electric ICE which are on their last run and apparently turned out a little sub par on color.
the IL translucent which do not diffuse the light on their own so that's a problem..
and the IL Milky White RGB which apparently sold ove rat ultimarc as the classic RGB
but those things are $8 a pop.. and you don't seem to e able to buy them without the LED already installed.. so that gets mighty expensive.
and instead of using something like a neopixel (a ws2812b on a small PCB) you have to go with something else like a WS2811 if you want to make it addressable, which i do.. cause im using an aldruino and addressable LED's are the easiest to wire needing only a single dataline.
There aren't a lot of options on the market for a concave happy style button sadly.
I mean you can get the light up convex ones dirt cheap but they're built like jap buttons which i hate the feel, even the sanwa buttons feel like garbage both in form and quality, I grew up on concave and that's all i'll accept.
3D printing is just silly for a mundane object like an arcade pushbutton.
It might seem silly.. except there aren't any good options on the market..
You said your self the last production run came out subpar on electric ice and aren't going to have more made.
the IL translucents have no diffusion properties so something needs to be modified there.
the IL milky white rgb buttons look perfect but are almost $9 a pop and dispite the included rgb still requires a chip to maek the existing rgp addressable (for my purpose)
not alot of concave options out there for LED buttons.
im going to retrofit the electric ice buttons which I have a pretty good idea of how I'll do it but if I had to design the button from scratch I might do it a different way. even your Helios solution is not addressable out of the box, would require modification there.
I don't know what everyone is using for their lighting solution but the addressable and cheap ws2812b seems perfect for using with a $2 adrudino which is actually going to be the brain-"Stem" of the operation.. it's going to do FAR more than just cover led control.
You missed the quick-and-dirty 3d model render "MAME_M_mask.jpg" attachment on my earlier post?
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You can do that or you can use LED strips to light the rest of the marquee around the logo.
You don't want to superglue the logo to the plexi.
- The glue will be visible and it will look bad.
ah I understand now.. ya that's something like I might use for a button insert or something.
So not quite as wide, shrink the walls around the "M" down to just say 3mm , but ya we're basically on the same page as to how im going to do it.
as for the glue you're right, I was thinking of using hot glue on the back side after the plexi is painted.. I don't think it would show.. I would glue the exterior walls of the letters leaving the letters facing the viewer untouched.. might take some testing.
nothing really set down in stone just yet, I'm sure I'll have to make adjustments nothing ever seems to work perfect the first time