09/25/21
Thanks guys for your concerns, but I addressed that problem last year, please see below:
02/17/2020
Good morning all. Scott, thanks for all the technical details of the two types of rectifiers. I had no idea that there would be a voltage difference. So, if I'm understanding this correctly, by using the bridge rectifier instead of the full wave rectifier configuration, the circuit is drawing twice the current. Thus, blowing the fuses across the secondary winding of the transformer. This sounds like why both F2 and F3 fuses are blowing when power is turned on. I'm glad I saved the full rectifier board. I pulled the brick out of the unit again and I'll reinstall the full wave rectifier circuit board tonight.
02/28/2020
TGIF, Good morning all, Happy to report that the above Problem 2 and Problem 3 have been resolved. The MR750 diodes have been re-soldered to the original full wave rectifier board. See Pic below. I retested all the J5 secondary winding output voltages with a load again and all is still good.
Additionally, I hooked the brick back up in the cabinet and removed the J2 jumpers that were in place to bypass the interlock switch and the bottom switch. I plugged in the J2 connection instead and turned the game on. No fuses blew. Now I feel we’re making progress. I currently have the bottom switch hooked up, but I have the top interlock switch still removed from the circuit.
Moving forward – Tonight, I’ll reconnect that top interlock switch in place and start re-connecting the additional boards. I’ll start with the PCB board. If no fuses blow, I’ll continue to connect the ARII. At that point I’m hoping to see the red power light on the PCB. With the new Transistor and voltage regulator now replaced, I’m anxious to retest the ARII for those missing 5 volt readings. If all goes well, I’ll report back tomorrow with additional more promising news. Have a good weekend!
To bring everyone up to date, No fuses are blowing, the top interlock has been reconnected, the red power light on the PCB board is now lit and all “appears” to be working properly. I’m now getting an image on the screen and I can now play a game “blindly”. By that I mean that I have no “cursor”. When I roll the ball, nothing appears to move. I took apart the entire roller ball assembly and cleaned all the parts and reassembled.
Additionally, When I’m playing, I’m getting a low pulsating hum from the speaker. I thought I might want to tackle that problem first. So I took the Regulator/Audio II PCB out of the cabinet and checked all the voltages. It appears that all the voltages are within range except the voltages at C9 and C10. Those voltages should be 36VAC. Instead, I’m showing a voltage of 18.19 and 18.24VAC. So, I ordered those 3300uf caps in hopes that the rumbling sound out of the speakers will turn into a normal game sound. Please see attached pics.