Silver Strike Bowling not booting

[MrMatt]

I've got a complete Silver Strike Bowling PC, IO Board and Security chip but it will not boot.  The HDD is version 1.01.03. Dated 04-22-05.

I get this on the system checks page:



And then it always goes to this Error 12 page, indicating that there is something wrong with the I/O board:



I've tried all combinations of the USB cables and ports to the I/O board and the security chip.  I've tried using a powered USB hub, and a USB header straight onto the PC motherboard, but no matter what I try the status of the 3 LEDs on the board are the same every time.  2 LEDs are constantly on and the middle LED labelled D102 flashes.  If the USB cable is not connected then this does flash at a different rate once it gets past that system check page, so the USB connection to the I/O board seems OK.

If this a faulty I/O board?

Could this be a HDD issue from the FAIL message on the system check screen?

Is there anything else I can test?

TIA

[lilshawn]

i would say maybe a bad drive is causing it. but i wouldn't put it past something with the io board.

check it has all it's power connections connected. it looks like you are outside of a cabinet... so i don't know what you got going on there. IO board needs 5v from the usb as well as a separate 12/5v 2x2 molex plug to power everything else up.

if it is not the io power, the next easiest thing to do is seeing if you can find a drive image and cloning a new drive.

[MrMatt]

Hi,

Thanks for the reply.  I do have the PC and the IO boards on a bench for testing.  Nothing is connected to the JAMMA edge.

I did try to flash a different HDD last night using CHDMAN and the procedure from this site https://www.thekillerinstinctproject.com/kiproject/chdman.html but I get this screen with the new HDD as if there is no HDD connected.  If I go into the BIOS it does see the new HDD.

I have the MOLEX cable from the PC connected, and the IO board is powered, the 3 LEDs are lit.  I bought a new USB-B cable for the IO board to PC but it didn't change anything.  The security chip board is also connected to the PC via a USB-B cable.

Am I missing a step or is there a different method to flashing a SSB HDD?  I used diskpart to clean the disk so it was unknown and uninitialised when I started.

If I connect the original SSB HDD to a PC as a secondary drive then my Windows will not boot Win10 off of my normal primary drive.  The new drive causing Windows to hang on loading up.

[MrMatt]

i would say maybe a bad drive is causing it. but i wouldn't put it past something with the io board.

check it has all it's power connections connected. it looks like you are outside of a cabinet... so i don't know what you got going on there. IO board needs 5v from the usb as well as a separate 12/5v 2x2 molex plug to power everything else up.

if it is not the io power, the next easiest thing to do is seeing if you can find a drive image and cloning a new drive.

Btw, I dont know if it matters but I was using CHDMAN v106 and ssb2007.chd.

[lilshawn]

if your chdman is 0.106, you are going to want to find a newer one. i use 0.146 and don't have hardly any issues. i'm sure it's updated since then and is probably 0.200 something.

make sure your machine was originally a 2007 (you can't mix and match software and security keys) if you are putting 2007 software in there. there is 2007, 2009, and "X" versions, and they are not interchangeable.

[MrMatt]

if your chdman is 0.106, you are going to want to find a newer one. i use 0.146 and don't have hardly any issues. i'm sure it's updated since then and is probably 0.200 something.

make sure your machine was originally a 2007 (you can't mix and match software and security keys) if you are putting 2007 software in there. there is 2007, 2009, and "X" versions, and they are not interchangeable.

Hi.

I'll try to burn another image with a newer CHDMAN.

At this stage I'm just trying to prove the original HDD is the fault, so if I can get any image to give me a different fault, even getting past the system checks and getting to the security key check and then fail, then it will be progress.

[lilshawn]

if it's the original drive that came with the system, it's not even worth seeing if the drive is salvageable. it's going to have hundreds of thousands of hours on it by now and it won't be reliable anyway.

look at it this way, it failed once... it's only a matter of time before it does it again , even if it appears to be working.

for what it's worth, pick yourself up the cheapest NEW harddrive you can get (ssd's can be had for like 30 bucks) and start again from there.

[MrMatt]

if it's the original drive that came with the system, it's not even worth seeing if the drive is salvageable. it's going to have hundreds of thousands of hours on it by now and it won't be reliable anyway.

look at it this way, it failed once... it's only a matter of time before it does it again , even if it appears to be working.

for what it's worth, pick yourself up the cheapest NEW harddrive you can get (ssd's can be had for like 30 bucks) and start again from there.

The new drive I'm trying to burn to isnt the original SSB drive.  It's an 80GB SATA drive I had lying around.  I think the original SSB HDD is faulty because I couldn't even boot into windows with that drive connected to he PC as another drive.  It made Win10 hang if it was also connected.

I'm now burning to it using CHDMAN v146.  I had to use the CHS figures which I took from the label of the original SSB hard drive.  Hopefully that is correct?

I'll test it in 2 hours when it finishing burning the drive.

[MrMatt]

if it's the original drive that came with the system, it's not even worth seeing if the drive is salvageable. it's going to have hundreds of thousands of hours on it by now and it won't be reliable anyway.

look at it this way, it failed once... it's only a matter of time before it does it again , even if it appears to be working.

for what it's worth, pick yourself up the cheapest NEW harddrive you can get (ssd's can be had for like 30 bucks) and start again from there.

So again the drive doesnt boot when I burned he image using CHDMAN v146 and the following settings.

Attached is a photo of the original SSB HDD where I took the CHS values from for the cmd prompt argument.

Did I make a mistake with CHDMAN?

[MrMatt]

Just seen that I messed up the command and ripped the HDD, not flashed it!  Just done a LLF and will do it again properly!!

[MrMatt]

if it's the original drive that came with the system, it's not even worth seeing if the drive is salvageable. it's going to have hundreds of thousands of hours on it by now and it won't be reliable anyway.

look at it this way, it failed once... it's only a matter of time before it does it again , even if it appears to be working.

for what it's worth, pick yourself up the cheapest NEW harddrive you can get (ssd's can be had for like 30 bucks) and start again from there.

Do know why I'm getting this "check disk space" error after chdman has extracted the file?

I've formatted it using LLF and tried another burn after a disk part clean but both times I get this error.

[MrMatt]

I figured it out.  The image unpacked to 95GB and I was using an 80GB HDD!

[MrMatt]

So it was a bad HDD.

Which version is 1.01.03 and where could I find that CHD so I could replace the original HDD?

I think it's SSB 2005, right?

[MrMatt]

WooHoo!!

[nipsmg]

Nice

[MrMatt]

Nice

I never thought this would be working again!  Now I need to change the marquee back thr the original SSB one!

[MrMatt]

I've got the IO board set the 25kHz Medium Res, and my chassis is an auto switching 15/25 board.

When the game is starting up, the IT splash, system checks and everything until the CID screen is scrambled and looks like it's the wrong frequency.  When it was set to 15kHz it displayed everything from the splash screen onwards.

Is this normal for the game when it's set to 25kHz?

[lilshawn]

yeah, the default res of the bios and os is 640x480, not normally an issue with most computer monitors. it' isn't until the io board diver is loaded and the IO board queried to see what the resolution should be (set by the dip switches.) that it changes and your screen becomes readable.

25khz is a weird resolution that does weird things.