Main > Monitor/Video Forum
HD 6450 with DVI-I and DisplayPort - good for PC+TV build?
Zebidee:
--- Quote from: bobbyb13 on August 06, 2021, 12:33:17 am ---As this (hopefully) remains within topic here...
Then what actually is the difference between DVI-D and DVI-I that renders DVi-D useless for our purposes here.
I have learned that there is a difference between these types of cables also (even though they look the same?) and that is problematic too.
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DVI-VGA adapters make much more sense to me now I know there is a Vsync pin.
There is a DVI-I that carries both digital and analogue signals, and all the header pins are there. For our needs we usually want DVI-I.
DVI-D only does digital, and the little cluster of analogue pins won't even be there. There is also a DVI-A which is analogue only, but have never seen it myself.
SBYT:
Thanks all for the input. Once I get all my pieces delivered I will see how it all works together!
Osirus23:
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snappleman:
FWIW I used the 5450 and a 6450 and they both work well, I've had no issues getting crt_emudriver working on any of my 5450 cards.
Instead of using converters (and since i have a couple dozen DVI-I cables that have racked up over the last 20 years) I splice a SCART connector to the end of a DVI-I cable with all the analog outputs, ground, composite sync, or if a card won't do composite sync a very simple passive combiner circuit (diode on hsync, resistor on vsync, combined into csync) and then depending on the sync voltage a 75-480ohm resistor that takes the voltage down with the sync termination in the TV. I also take the 5v from the DVI connector and run it through a 220 termination cap and resistor on the SCART connector to act as a blanking signal since my TVs don't need 12v to switch to RGB. I also solder in a 1/8" phono cable to the audio inputs on the scart connector that run through the housing to the line out on the back of the PC since I use a switcher that's routed to TV+sound amp.
The main reason I started doing this was not just to have less bulk sticking out the back, but because I don't like feeding TTL sync from the GPU right into a consumer TV. I've had one instance where TTL sync from a neo geo MVS damaged the sync input on the TVs IC, and tracking down an exact model 25+year old chroma IC is enough of a pain that I'd rather just make sure that sync voltage (and RGB voltage as well) is always correct for the circuit it's going into.
Zebidee:
Making a dedicated DVI-I to SCART cable is a creative and direct way to avoid both needing an adapter and the painful process to swap the primary video "head" on a 5450 card.
Is the diode there to prevent negative Hsync pulses during the Vsync pulse? Circled in blue, at bottom, in attached picture. Pic shows H+V sync combined by simply twisting H+V wires together and running through a resistor to a TV.
--- Quote from: snappleman on August 13, 2021, 03:44:48 pm ---FWIW I used the 5450 and a 6450 and they both work well, I've had no issues getting crt_emudriver working on any of my 5450 cards.
Instead of using converters (and since i have a couple dozen DVI-I cables that have racked up over the last 20 years) I splice a SCART connector to the end of a DVI-I cable with all the analog outputs, ground, composite sync, or if a card won't do composite sync a very simple passive combiner circuit (diode on hsync, resistor on vsync, combined into csync) and then depending on the sync voltage a 75-480ohm resistor that takes the voltage down with the sync termination in the TV. I also take the 5v from the DVI connector and run it through a 220 termination cap and resistor on the SCART connector to act as a blanking signal since my TVs don't need 12v to switch to RGB. I also solder in a 1/8" phono cable to the audio inputs on the scart connector that run through the housing to the line out on the back of the PC since I use a switcher that's routed to TV+sound amp.
The main reason I started doing this was not just to have less bulk sticking out the back, but because I don't like feeding TTL sync from the GPU right into a consumer TV. I've had one instance where TTL sync from a neo geo MVS damaged the sync input on the TVs IC, and tracking down an exact model 25+year old chroma IC is enough of a pain that I'd rather just make sure that sync voltage (and RGB voltage as well) is always correct for the circuit it's going into.
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