RUSH 2049 Resurrection

[bobbyb13]

I had promised myself I wasn't going to start on this until I had the monitor in the one that is actually still in one piece working, but...

I have been such a good boy lately that on Saturday (after I had fixed the pressure pump for our water supply system at 6:30am) I was allowed the day I have REALLY needed for about 2 years now to clean and rearrange the workshop.

Most of the cabinet pieces from the second RUSH cabinet that magically appeared in my life have been sitting in this odd corner of the shop and I needed to shuffle things a bit for my new layout.



I wouldn't have started this (so I tell myself-) if it hadn't been for the massive allergy fit that I got for moving that pile around.
The cabinet came to me gratis because it was neglected/nonfunctional (although appeared complete) and had spent time getting wet.
Lots of mold.

So rather than continue to hold onto this lung wrecker waiting for time to appear I figured screw it.

Tossed the pieces out in the sun for the afternoon and they improved but still give me the sniffles.

Time to go to work!

Thankfully it looks like the cabinet designer knew it needed to be bomb-proof and the whole base (with great casters) can be saved- because it was actually cabinet ply.
The rest is trash.
All that particle board soaked up a lot of water (and who knows what else my lungs don't like) and swelled and is disintegrating.

One side panel was still good enough to use as a template.



If anyone knows somewhere to find art for these please let me know!
I now need two sets 

Gang cuts and patience with a decent jigsaw saves a lot of time.

The craziest part of this cabinet is the center of it that basically carries everything.
The steering assembly, base for the monitor, pedal cluster, coin door and the middle supports for the side panels all rely on this chunk of wood.



Took a few rounds of going through this thing with a tape measure and bezel square to figure I had it close enough.
The cut list was ridiculous but I believe I have pulled it off.



Having the pieces to use (and not just a picture) is making it easy to rip through this actually.
I only recently came by a decent table saw and it makes a huge difference in speed and accuracy.

Got to move so fast in fact that by 1:30am I was already gluing and tacking stuff together!



If someone could tell me the best way to catalog this whole thing to be useful to anyone in the future please let me know.
Problem is that I have NO software (or skill to use it) for any means of making meaningful files but I would happily give great detail in hand drawn stuff to anyone who could do better than I with it!
I have my black belt in pencil, graph paper and protractor.
 

Seems a shame to effectively have the detail of an entire tear-down and not be able to record it somehow.

Can't wait to toss all this nasty particle board and get going on the rest of it.

[bobbyb13]

Haven't had time to put into rebuilding this second one, but because it is motivational in regard to this thread...

Since the first of my RUSH 2049 cabinets got moved upstairs into the loft it has been unhappy.
It booted up, ran through control checks on the steering ffb, error display on the main board showed nothing, all audio sounded correct, and... she played blind.

Since I had a 'spare' monitor for the moment from this second cabinet I am rebuilding I figured why not swap it in and see what I get?
Well, after a lot of wrangling with the frame and alignment to get it squared in the cabinet again I was rewarded with...



Winning!
Maybe I WILL actually get both of these functional before Mike A makes it out here? 

And more to the point, when I previously lamented the death of the monitor in this machine, someone whose opinion I value greatly at this point said something to the effect of-

'you sure something didn't just get knocked off in moving the cabinet....?'

And once I pulled the chassis out to give it a good cleaning and see about not destroying it in trying to rebuild it, what did I find?



So... is that white wire that goes from the high voltage corner to the pin connector on the neckboard important?!
 

Am I lucky that I didn't have a fireworks show in that cabinet?

Or more importantly at this point, did firing this thing up with that wire off destroy anything before the image collapsed from a fuzzy jittery mess to a vertical line and then disappeared?

To add to the fun of getting this second machine up and running soon, is there a source for the pots on these remote boards and does anyone know what values it might be (or can I test one meaningfully with a multi-meter to buy what I need?)

The other one of these remote boards I have has a pot with the white dial broken off and needs to be replaced as I imagine that any malfunction of those adjustment pots could really cause some headaches.

Thank you anyone with wisdom to offer!

[bobbyb13]

And, oh...

Remote adjustment board



Mahalo nui loa!

[Mike A]

Whenever I move a game I open it up and make sure everything is secure and connected BEFORE and after I move it.


If that is the original monitor. Here is the manual. It will have what you need to know for that remote board.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1009930/Neotec-Nt-2700.html#manual

If you are not already aware of them, these guys are a good source for arcade electronics:

https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/page/1/?s=pots&post_type=product

They are especially good if you are like me and electronics are relatively new to you.

You can source the stuff from other places for a few pennies less, but this site is arcade oriented. It makes it easier to find what you are looking for.

[Malenko]

Remote adjustment board

That a remote degaus button? baller.

Not sure why this was moved to restorations/repair, this is building a whole new cab right? Or are you just repairing the old one?

[bobbyb13]

Whenever I move a game I open it up and make sure everything is secure and connected BEFORE and after I move it.


If that is the original monitor. Here is the manual. It will have what you need to know for that remote board.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1009930/Neotec-Nt-2700.html#manual

If you are not already aware of them, these guys are a good source for arcade electronics:

https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/page/1/?s=pots&post_type=product

They are especially good if you are like me and electronics are relatively new to you.

You can source the stuff from other places for a few pennies less, but this site is arcade oriented. It makes it easier to find what you are looking for.

Thanks Mike.
I'll order some bits from them for sure.

Remote adjustment board

That a remote degaus button? baller.

Not sure why this was moved to restorations/repair, this is building a whole new cab right? Or are you just repairing the old one?

Right about the degauss button!
I thought that was genius too.
Not sure why all chassis don't have these things.

Even though I am having to rebuild nearly the entire cabinet from scratch (it was REALLY hammered and rotten) because I DID actually begin with an existing cabinet it seemed more appropriate for this to live in restorations, so I asked Scott what he thought.

Appreciate the replies gentlemen!
I will need help with this one along the way for sure.

Looking forward to head to head racing!

[Mike A]

A lot of people would have just parted that cab out.

Thank you for saving a game from the grim reaper.

[Zebidee]

And more to the point, when I previously lamented the death of the monitor in this machine, someone whose opinion I value greatly at this point said something to the effect of-

'you sure something didn't just get knocked off in moving the cabinet....?'

Hmmm, very wise indeed!

Thank you anyone with wisdom to offer!

Right now I'm busy basking in your wisdom, looking at the ease with which you did all those nice cuts in a very short time. Impressive work 

[bobbyb13]

A lot of people would have just parted that cab out.

Thank you for saving a game from the grim reaper.

Thank you Mike.
Wouldn't have it any other way really.

If I can find other carcasses out here to give another life I will.
It is a slippery slope, especially for one with my "I can fix that!" disposition.

Probably better for my life at home/romantic relationship that there aren't more at my disposal regularly.

And more to the point, when I previously lamented the death of the monitor in this machine, someone whose opinion I value greatly at this point said something to the effect of-

'you sure something didn't just get knocked off in moving the cabinet....?'

Hmmm, very wise indeed!

Thank you anyone with wisdom to offer!

Right now I'm busy basking in your wisdom, looking at the ease with which you did all those nice cuts in a very short time. Impressive work 

That wisdom should feel like deja vu !
Hopefully I didn't inadvertently roast something in that chassis and it works at least as well as the other one.
Hopefully we will see soon.

Those cuts would have sucked (driving cabs are a little crazy I have learned!) but my new (rather old really) table saw rocks.
I probably spent an hour scrubbing rust out of the deck, cleaning and lubing the bevel and height gears, squaring the fence, and finally burnishing some Boeshield into the thing, but it is close enough now to call it jazz- and well worth the effort.

Full sheets of ply beware!
 

Tomorrow I hope to get back to assembling the core to the base- but we'll see if I have any spare time to do so.

Still hoping for a magical source of side art to appear but that is still a long way off-
And not necessary to be able to drive it!

[bobbyb13]

AND...

The other fun thing I found (when I was blowing all the dust and mouse ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- out of the PCB cage- and boy am I glad they decided all this stuff should live in a metal cage) is that not only did the brains of this thing NOT go swimming like the rest of it appeared to have, but that this machine (like my functional one  ) has the Tournament Edition security chips and data drive- and on an SSD even!



It is now clean enough really that I will resist giving it a bath and just get the cabinet built and stuff it all in to see if it all still works.

Maybe by the end of the month...?

[Zeosstud]

Having 2 connected for head to head racing will be awesome, I hope you and many others enjoy it.. I liked having mine for the few years I had one..

Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk

[bobbyb13]

Holy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- has it been too long since I had time to work on anything.
Especially this beast.

Feels good to be back in the saddle.

I have a good portion of a week here that I am stuck with not much else to do except wait for it to stop raining (so I can cut the grass that will be ass-cheek high here shortly) clean the workshop that looks like a bomb went off in it- and work on some cabinet joy!

Had forgotten how far along I was with this really.  I got really far in just part of a day here.

I had used the exploding/melting side panels to make a repro and hadn't cleaned up the profile yet.
So what better than a bunch of clamps and an ancient belt sander?!



I have zero drama doing it this way (as opposed to trying with a router) so I'm sticking with it.

Entertainingly, it wasn't until I went to run the slot cutter that I remembered that the right side panel is actually a slightly different shape than the left so that required referring to the still together and functional one of these that I have.

After measuring a bit I found where to place the core tree on the base so that hopefully it all comes out right.



Having the thrashed one to measure as I disassembled it and a good one to reference is making this all a lot faster and easier of course.

The right side panel could have been left exactly like the left side and it wouldn't have impeded play or function in any way- but it bugged me so I got out a king size protractor (i.e. surfboard outline template) and found a curve that suited and then reprofiled that panel more authentically.

After that, squaring them up and attaching them was pretty easy.



The next part was where I started to get nervouse because if I had blown it somewhere then it could be possible that either the monitor wouldn't fit in at the right angle, the PCB cage wouldn't sit in the back, or the steering assembly wouldn't hang properly either- or possibly all three of those tragedies.

I partially disassembled my functional machine to double check measurements before I went to town with glue, clamps, brads, and screws here and all appears to be close enough to call it jazz music.



Looks like tomorrow there can be painting on my schedule.
If we get something less than 90-100% humidity maybe I can get through a few coats even.

[Mike A]

Glad to see you building stuff.

[bobbyb13]

Thanks Mike.
Back to building FUN stuff may be more accurate.
I've been so busy with regular work at the Hale Komodo (building in a spa, sauna, floor to ceiling wine chiller and tequila rack, sensory deprivation chamber room, and cryogenic shower and nitrogen generator facility- not making this ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- up) that even finishing our (rather small) guest house had taken a back seat- and then I have had zero time for arcade machine action of course.

The only GOOD part of all this is that the guest house will be done in a few weeks!
Then some of you will have to make good on threats to come out here and teach me more about this hobby.
 

[Mike A]

A guest house?
You might have trouble getting rid of me.

[bobbyb13]

Based on the reponse from family and friends back on the mainland, I'm going to need a well kept calendar.

The missus will be posting it to rent for a month at a clip in between when we have freebie visitors signed on so it will take a little coordination, but she has already been warned about old friends and fellow arcade nerds.
 

Failing that, the ArcadeLoft (maybe a bit on the provincial side for some) is always available.
It's cozy with all the machines, archery stuff, surfboards and drum kit, but there is a mini fridge and queen size bed up there..
Hot shower, sink and composting toilet are outside though.

I got some paint on the cab.
Primer dried ok and then it started raining again after I put some enamel on it, so maybe I'll get lucky and it will dry before the month is over.

[Zebidee]

Nice work Bobby, looking forward to playing on that cab when I bring the missus to Hawaii

Put a heater on where your paintwork is, that will help drive the moisture away.

[bobbyb13]

Looking forwward to that Andrew!
Hopefully travel gets happier soon.

Well, the only heat we have here is that yellow ball in the sky and whatever I light in the picnic grove firepit!
 

I'm trying a dehumidifier but the space is not airtight and also fairly large so I will have to be patient I suppose.

I don't think we ever get below 60% humidity here really, but it has rained every day (and most of the day!) since we got back from Utah.

And what have I been trying to get done...?!

Drywall in the guest house and painting this cab!
 

[Zebidee]

We're the same - no heater anywhere on our property, unless you count water heaters. It can get cool at night this time of year, I wore a jacket last night. ooooo

Put a few of your CRTs in there and turn them on! They generate around 100-200W each. I used to dry my weed in a bowl on the back of the CRT telly, on the bit housing the neck, would take about 30 minutes. Damn flatsceen LEDs have nowhere to put it.

[bobbyb13]

We're the same - no heater anywhere on our property, unless you count water heaters. It can get cool at night this time of year, I wore a jacket last night. ooooo

Put a few of your CRTs in there and turn them on! They generate around 100-200W each. I used to dry my weed in a bowl on the back of the CRT telly, on the bit housing the neck, would take about 30 minutes. Damn flatsceen LEDs have nowhere to put it.

 

[bobbyb13]

Well, the beast dried enough to con my son into helping me get it up into the loft but I am having issues with uploading pics!



I like the idea of yin and yang here so it will stay white (even though you won't see hardly any of it if I ever get side art.)

So many of the components were rusty and nasty that I am cleaning everything up as much as I can first.



The transformer got a bit wet so figured it needed a little wire brushing and some Boeshield to see if I can slow/reverse the deterioration.

Pedal cluster got the same kind of treatment.
A bit of Kaboom on a toothbrush to spiff up the wires, wire brush and scotchbrite for rusty metal bits and then Boeshield for bare metal, lithium grease for the springs hiding inside pipes for the brake and clutch pedals and Sil-Glyde for pot gears.



Happily the harness looks pretty good.  Only a little drama on the loom that feeds the marquee stack really, but easy to mend the 2 wires that were chewed up.



Been so long since I had time to work on this that I had forgotten the state of it all really.

A little measuring and a few holes drilled and the pedal cluster went in quite nicely.



The other happy thing is that the cage and its contents look ok.
So much of the wood was damaged that I assumed that everything inside would be hammered, but rather be lucky than good.



I had forgotten also that I bought a new PSU for it (the other looked so waterlogged that I didn't dare try it) but it wasn't exactly the same one, so I created the proper harness to plug into the main loom for the machine.
I'll need to dig up the pinout and make sure I got everything in the right spot before I fire it up.

Spent some time trying to get the monitor hung but it seems like the holes that I had transferred from the old panel are off about 3/8" and it is making stuff not fit together well so tomorrow hopefully I can get time to redrill for the monitor frame mounts and have another go- for like the 7th time!

If I can sort these few things out maybe I can get it lit up tomorrow and see if it is actually still alive in there.

[Zebidee]

Kaboom... there was supposed to be an "Earth shattering" KABOOM!

I feel nervous seeing the wire brush and ISO transformer in the same shot - you know to not use that on the wire windings yes?

As always, love your work and love to see TWO SF Rush cabs, even half-built, in the same shot.

[Mike A]

This thread makes me happy.

[bobbyb13]

Fear not Andrew!
I didn't crack open the iso.  Those things freak me out.
The mounting plate and frame were all that got the wire brush treatment (and lightly at that.)

I AM still concerned that it got so completely soaked at some point that it may be dead anyway- or blow up the next time it is energized from previous water damage. 

Hopefully find out in the next day or so.
Before I see what electrical/electronic drama exists I still need to go through the seat and steering assemblies, clean up the keypad, adjust the monitor mounts, repair a bit of wire, and check voltages coming out of the psu.

I would say it is good that it stopped raining except that now I'll need to cut the ocean of grass too. 

You and me both Mike. 
Glad to contribute to global harmony!

[bobbyb13]

I'll have to take a few more pictures soon.

The steering assembly doesn't look so bad really (anybody know how to deal with the weird sticky melting habit of the coating on these wheels?) but I may need to buy a new wheel.
Two actually because the one on the other cabinet sucks too.



The shifter however is pretty messed up.
Whoever left this machine sit outside the way it did should be kicked in the jimmy.
Repeatedly.



So much paint came off with a fingernail that I got irritated and started scraping.
Remarkably, only the reverse button switch is crunchy.
The shifter state switches all appear like they are ok so they will stay for now.

I sanded it down and gave it a rattle can rebuild treatment so hopefully that paint dries fast enough I can put that back before the weekend is out.

All that is left now for the reassembling portion of this exercise is to go through the seat assembly.
The artwork on it is peeling and shrinking but I think the box may hold up (so that I don't need to remake that thing too.)

Then it will be time for checking electrical stuff.

[Mike A]

I have a Turbo steering wheel I need to fix up. I am not sure what I am going to do yet.

[nitrogen_widget]

it looks like the rubber degraded like an old auto steering wheel.

a quick google search shows multiple methods to make the sticky go away depending on how bad it is.

[Zebidee]

I get similar problems, with other things, in a humid climate.

I was wondering if you could buy something standard from an auto pro parts shop to suit. Get as best as you can find, 2x and it will match.

[bobbyb13]

it looks like the rubber degraded like an old auto steering wheel.

a quick google search shows multiple methods to make the sticky go away depending on how bad it is.

I've tried a bunch of home remedies I found on the internets out of desperation and although a few help a bit, things are still gooey.
Funny, all our really fancy kitchen utensils have exactly the same issue!

I think replacement is the only real option.
On the first cab the rubber stuff is completely peeled off, which isn't horrible to drive actually.

Second wheel may get the same peel treatment until I buy a replacement.
I saw them somewhere once for $50 a pop so that may be the only real fix.

[nitrogen_widget]

if the rubber is peeled off, what about plasti dipping it?
IDK if that would actually work .

or one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Leather-Steering-Needles-Thread/dp/B07L6Z6JTK/ref=asc_df_B07L6Z6JTK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=343272646452&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8375821278968287919&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005498&hvtargid=pla-781372347262&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=74758335971&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=343272646452&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8375821278968287919&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005498&hvtargid=pla-781372347262

[bobbyb13]

Hadn't thought about the dip concept!
Might work just fine really.
I'll give that a shot on the peeled one when I get some goo.

Your other suggestion will be my first try on the still rubberized and sticky one.

I had time to make some progress today.
I'll post some pics here soon.

[bobbyb13]

Well, one of the biggest dramas was getting the screen back in so that the bezel shroud fit so that the steering assembly would still mount properly.



I'm not sure if it was a consequence of the old cabinet having expanded a bunch with soaking up so much water, but it was a recurring theme throughout that things were off 5/16" in areas- and I measured rather closely when I was setting up to recreate this cabinet.

Came to be an issue with getting the monitor in (since I had to take it out and put it back 7 times to get it right) but when I first saw that things were a bit awry I checked to make sure this was all going to work.
Thankfully it does (although I needed the oscillating saw in a number of places!)

After I had put the other parts together I saw that there was a piece blow up/broken off of where it meets the main cab floor so that required making yet another panel.



At least that was easy!

And so I finally got the entire cabinet put back together as it is supposed to go.



I checked all the voltages coming out of the PSU and dialed in 5V, double checked all the grounds here there and everywhere and then fired it up.

Main board went through all of it's checks and came up with the little scrolling red line like it is supposed to (with no error codes) but I heard nothing from the steering assembly (which always runs a check you can here with it bumping the FFB motor) and saw no neck glow at all from the monitor. 

The latter is especially frustrating since I bench tested that thing (granted, a year ago) and the chassis I got for the original tube ran it just fine back then.
Now, nothing.

Checked main fuse, dead, and thought yes!
Swapped that out for a new 4 amp one and next boot up...

Fans and board woke up, brief happy sound of high voltage snap in the monitor and then - dead.
Cooked something.
Lovely roasting smell.
So good it even tripped the breaker in the main load center for the building (I thought I had killed the new PSU for a few minutes.)

Nice 'I got kinda warm' type color on the board near what I imagine is the HOT and some weird looking diode next to it that looks like a wedding ring for a 3rd grader.

---steaming pile of meadow muffin----

Back to the drawing board on monitor.

I'll need to see if I can find diagnostic stuff for the controls too.
I know I have a PDF of an original manual here somewhere.

Rrrrr.....

I disconnected the AC feeding the monitor chassis and tried again and at least all the boards in the cage seemed to boot up ok again.

Still a lot to learn.
 

[Zebidee]

Checked main fuse, dead, and thought yes!
Swapped that out for a new 4 amp one and next boot up...

Fans and board woke up, brief happy sound of high voltage snap in the monitor and then - dead.
Cooked something.
Lovely roasting smell.
So good it even tripped the breaker in the main load center for the building (I thought I had killed the new PSU for a few minutes.)

Nice 'I got kinda warm' type color on the board near what I imagine is the HOT and some weird looking diode next to it that looks like a wedding ring for a 3rd grader.

---steaming pile of meadow muffin----

Funny you write this just as I'm busy fixing a few dead TVs that have come into my care. Actually, sorry, it is not funny at all because dead monitors suck

In my repair adventures, mostly I'm having to understand how the power supplies work as that is the main cause of most problems.

Fuses always blow for a reason! Very rare they are the only problem present, they blow to protect other stuff. Ah well. 

That "third-grader's ring" is probably a balun inductor and mostly they don't fail.

HOT is normally the large transistor, nearest the flyback, with 3 legs. There's usually a pretty big one between the primary output transformer and AC power in that can look pretty similar and is also prone to failure if there is a power surge.

In any case, there are a few other components around these things that are prone to failure at the same time. Bridge rectifier and the DC power rail diodes to start with, and possibly the auto shutdown circuit transistor, associated current limiting diodes and even the optocoupler. Mostly these are pretty easy to check once you know what to look for, and can be replaced with "jellybean" parts.

Anyways, you can guess where my mind is at the moment.  But it is all fluff without more details or pics.

Rather than me giving you half-baked advice, unless you really want to get into monitor repair, you'd probably be best off packing up the chassis and sending it to someone in USA familiar with that model.

[Zebidee]

Is this the same Sharp Image monitor that had the main voltage wire from the flyback to the CRT neck hanging loose 6 months ago?

[bobbyb13]

Same tube but different chassis.

It's a Hong Eun that worked fine on the bench.

After I thought about it, it occurred to me that maybe the SI has a SMPS and this one needs a transformer and I have inadvertantly roasted it by running it with straight line voltage.

I need to start learning this stuff anyway I suppose.
Pretty demoralizing in this case though!

[Zebidee]

An iso is always nice for safety, but strictly speaking you don't need one for any monitor (or TV) with an SMPS.

The first thing to look for is a bridge rectifier - this is a cluster of 4 diodes near the main AC input and line filter. The bridge rectifier takes your AC and gives you noisy DC. Sometimes they are separate diodes,  but sometimes they come together as a chip about one inch long, maybe 1/2 inch high, and with 4 legs. Bridge rectifier can look different again in other contexts (for example, pinball machines usually have a square bridge rectifier with chunky legs that can be easily plugged in/out).

The SI monitors do indeed come with an SMPS.

Anyway, don't bust yourself trying to fix the monitor yourself unless you are a glutton for punishment with a burning desire to learn about repairing monitors. Pack the chassis in a box and send it to someone, get it back a month or so later looking shiny again.

[bobbyb13]

The masochism of it all...

I really DO want to learn how to repair these things, but I am going to be really short on time again for a while.

Maybe this one will get sent off!
It'll be a month before I could work on it anyway I bet.

I have functional parts to put together for another 2 cabs
 

[Zebidee]

Yeah mate, you have plenty to keep you busy already. Your Big Trouble in Little China monitor has most likely blown multiple bits, and by the time it comes back you'll still be working on the SF Rush cabs. Monitor repair is like a rabbit hole, need to invest time and effort to get good. In the meantime, practice with replacing caps and other easy stuff first. Try some modding?

Last night I successfully component-modded another cheap 20$ 21" TCL flatscreen CRT TV. Can't believe how good it looks, or how simple the mod was. I only spent one evening on it, including research & planning. All I had to do was add 4 resistors (holes were already there!) and a gang of 3xRCA jacks. Will do another write-up soon. So I'm pretty sure there will be no shortage of monitors, so long as I can keep making GreenAntz for uz.

[bobbyb13]

I like it!
Someday I'll have some time
I hope
 

[Mike A]

You can buy an original chassis for that monitor. I saw some on ebay. But I can't remember the exact model you have.

You shouldn't resort to the Chinese ones. You are asking for trouble.