| Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair |
| RUSH 2049 Resurrection |
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| bobbyb13:
Hadn't thought about the dip concept! Might work just fine really. I'll give that a shot on the peeled one when I get some goo. Your other suggestion will be my first try on the still rubberized and sticky one. I had time to make some progress today. I'll post some pics here soon. |
| bobbyb13:
Well, one of the biggest dramas was getting the screen back in so that the bezel shroud fit so that the steering assembly would still mount properly. I'm not sure if it was a consequence of the old cabinet having expanded a bunch with soaking up so much water, but it was a recurring theme throughout that things were off 5/16" in areas- and I measured rather closely when I was setting up to recreate this cabinet. Came to be an issue with getting the monitor in (since I had to take it out and put it back 7 times to get it right) but when I first saw that things were a bit awry I checked to make sure this was all going to work. Thankfully it does (although I needed the oscillating saw in a number of places!) After I had put the other parts together I saw that there was a piece blow up/broken off of where it meets the main cab floor so that required making yet another panel. At least that was easy! And so I finally got the entire cabinet put back together as it is supposed to go. I checked all the voltages coming out of the PSU and dialed in 5V, double checked all the grounds here there and everywhere and then fired it up. Main board went through all of it's checks and came up with the little scrolling red line like it is supposed to (with no error codes) but I heard nothing from the steering assembly (which always runs a check you can here with it bumping the FFB motor) and saw no neck glow at all from the monitor. :hissy: The latter is especially frustrating since I bench tested that thing (granted, a year ago) and the chassis I got for the original tube ran it just fine back then. Now, nothing. Checked main fuse, dead, and thought yes! Swapped that out for a new 4 amp one and next boot up... Fans and board woke up, brief happy sound of high voltage snap in the monitor and then - dead. Cooked something. Lovely roasting smell. So good it even tripped the breaker in the main load center for the building (I thought I had killed the new PSU for a few minutes.) Nice 'I got kinda warm' type color on the board near what I imagine is the HOT and some weird looking diode next to it that looks like a wedding ring for a 3rd grader. ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---- Back to the drawing board on monitor. I'll need to see if I can find diagnostic stuff for the controls too. I know I have a PDF of an original manual here somewhere. Rrrrr..... I disconnected the AC feeding the monitor chassis and tried again and at least all the boards in the cage seemed to boot up ok again. Still a lot to learn. :dunno |
| Zebidee:
--- Quote from: bobbyb13 on January 12, 2022, 02:43:00 am ---Checked main fuse, dead, and thought yes! Swapped that out for a new 4 amp one and next boot up... Fans and board woke up, brief happy sound of high voltage snap in the monitor and then - dead. Cooked something. Lovely roasting smell. So good it even tripped the breaker in the main load center for the building (I thought I had killed the new PSU for a few minutes.) Nice 'I got kinda warm' type color on the board near what I imagine is the HOT and some weird looking diode next to it that looks like a wedding ring for a 3rd grader. ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---- --- End quote --- Funny you write this just as I'm busy fixing a few dead TVs that have come into my care. Actually, sorry, it is not funny at all because dead monitors suck :'( In my repair adventures, mostly I'm having to understand how the power supplies work as that is the main cause of most problems. Fuses always blow for a reason! Very rare they are the only problem present, they blow to protect other stuff. Ah well. :dunno That "third-grader's ring" is probably a balun inductor and mostly they don't fail. HOT is normally the large transistor, nearest the flyback, with 3 legs. There's usually a pretty big one between the primary output transformer and AC power in that can look pretty similar and is also prone to failure if there is a power surge. In any case, there are a few other components around these things that are prone to failure at the same time. Bridge rectifier and the DC power rail diodes to start with, and possibly the auto shutdown circuit transistor, associated current limiting diodes and even the optocoupler. Mostly these are pretty easy to check once you know what to look for, and can be replaced with "jellybean" parts. Anyways, you can guess where my mind is at the moment. But it is all fluff without more details or pics. Rather than me giving you half-baked advice, unless you really want to get into monitor repair, you'd probably be best off packing up the chassis and sending it to someone in USA familiar with that model. |
| Zebidee:
Is this the same Sharp Image monitor that had the main voltage wire from the flyback to the CRT neck hanging loose 6 months ago? |
| bobbyb13:
Same tube but different chassis. It's a Hong Eun that worked fine on the bench. After I thought about it, it occurred to me that maybe the SI has a SMPS and this one needs a transformer and I have inadvertantly roasted it by running it with straight line voltage. I need to start learning this stuff anyway I suppose. Pretty demoralizing in this case though! |
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