| Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair |
| Janky Street Fighter cab restore sort of... |
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| Mike A:
I dragged a Street Fighter cab out of some dude's basement in a sketchy neighborhood in Rockford, IL awhile back. I will dig up some pics and post them here. The game worked, but I don't think it was ever a legit cab. The construction isn't consistent with commercial arcade machines. Street Fighter was definitely not the original game in the cab. Here is documentation on my recent efforts to make this ugly duckling more presentable and playable. |
| Mike A:
Here is the CP that was on the cab. I stripped off the terrible overlay that was on it. I thought about spot welding or epoxying a steel plate over the top, but I didn't trust my ability to smooth and blend everything flat afterward. So I bought a relatively cheap metal brake that can handle up to 18 gauge steel at 30 inches wide. I plan on doing a bunch more CPs for other cabs. This was a way to get my feet wet. |
| Mike A:
So the first thing I did was measure the old CP. I don't have many steel working tools yet so I ordered a piece of sheet steel to the same dimensions as the old CP. Time to start bending steel. The clamping bar is pretty wide so it limited my bend options at the end. I kind of forced it to work. One bend was not pretty, but you can't see it on the cab, and it couldn't really be avoided with the equipment I have. |
| Mike A:
I must say that is a pretty nice fit for my first steel CP. |
| Mike A:
Next I went to slagcoin.com to get the Street Fighter joystick and button layout. After that I printed it out actual size and taped it to the CP. Next I used a spring loaded punch to mark all of the hole positions. Next is simply drill the holes. When cutting steel I slow down my drill press and use oil to lubricate the cutting bit. I couldn't reach a few of the holes with my drill press so I just used a hand drill for those. |
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