Seimitsu S.L.-40 01 help, windows MAME new cab build

[Danzio]

Hi.

Building a new cabinet using 2x seimitsu ls-40 01 joysticks. Got one hooked up to the pc running mame through a usb encoder using the 5 pin cable, works fine, configured in windows fine and this translates to use in my front end and games.

Problem I’m having is that the second stick won’t calibrate reliably. When plugged in to a second encoder board the windows calibration tool either doesn’t detect the stick and when flipping the 5 pin around detects it but it’s as if the crosshairs for the axis calibration is stuck in the right where it only moves when 2 of the direction microswitches are pressed (holding joystick in a diagonal manner) this again, translates to in game and is completely unusable. I’ve tried swapping out boards and using different cables both one way and another and nothing. The stick looks fine, no damage and was brand new. Trace/pcb look fine and microswitches look ok as far as I can tell. Just don’t understand why it won’t calibrate.

I’ve got in touch with the retailer but was wondering if maybe it’s something I’m doing wrong here? As the first stick was just plug and play. I’ve tried even removing all other buttons from that sides encoder board to just have the joystick but to no avail.

Any help would be appreciated, I’m pretty new to this!

I’ve tried searching the forum but can’t see anything close to what my problem is, and I’m at a complete loss!

Thanks for your time in reading this, appreciate any replies.

Dan.

[PL1]

the second stick won’t calibrate reliably. When plugged in to a second encoder board the windows calibration tool either doesn’t detect the stick and when flipping the 5 pin around detects it but it’s as if the crosshairs for the axis calibration is stuck in the right where it only moves when 2 of the direction microswitches are pressed (holding joystick in a diagonal manner) this again, translates to in game and is completely unusable. I’ve tried swapping out boards and using different cables both one way and another and nothing. The stick looks fine, no damage and was brand new. Trace/pcb look fine and microswitches look ok as far as I can tell. Just don’t understand why it won’t calibrate.

Are you sure that nothing's shorting to the joystick PCB and that you've got the connections right?
-  Sanwa and Seimitsu harnesses use different wire colors.
Related thread: https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156710.0.html

If those two possibilities are not it, it's time to troubleshoot.

In this case, an easy first approach is referred to as "swap-tronics".

You have a known good system (Joy1 + Encoder1) and a known bad system (Joy2 + Encoder2)

Try swapping the Joy1 and Joy2 connections so Joy1 is on Encoder2 and Joy2 is on Encoder1.
- If Joy1+Encoder2 is good, the problem is probably with Joy2 or the wiring/connections.
- If Joy2 +Encoder1 is good, the problem is probably with Encoder2 or the wiring/connections.
- If both are good (or both are bad), there was (or currently is) probably an error in the wiring/connections.

Another approach is often referred to as "divide and conquer" -- you take measurements or break the circuit in the middle so you can test part of the circuit.

In your setup, you have 3 parts to the circuit.  A is the joystick.  B is the wiring.  C is the Encoder.

    A--B--C

Try unplugging the joystick from the wiring harness so you can use a jumper or piece of wire to test if the wiring and encoder are good.
- Bring up the encoder in Control Panel -- Devices and Printers.
- Touch one end of the jumper to the harness ground wire and the other to the Up, Down. Left, and Right wires in turn.
- if the encoder test window shows Up, Down. Left, and Right as you ground each input wire, you know that the wiring and encoder are probably good and the problem is either with the joystick or the order of the wires.

You can test the joystick microswitches using a multimeter set to continuity.
- Black lead on ground.  Red lead on the Up, Down. Left, and Right pins in turn.
- The meter should indicate open when the joystick handle is centered and continuity when the actuator presses the microswitch that the red lead is connected to.


Scott