Main Restorations Software Audio/Jukebox/MP3 Everything Else Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements Monitor/Video GroovyMAME Merit/JVL Touchscreen Meet Up Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing Woodworking Software Support Forums Consoles Project Arcade Reviews
Automated Projects Artwork Frontend Support Forums Pinball Forum Discussion Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board controls.dat Linux Miscellaneous Arcade Wiki Discussion Old Archives
Lightguns Arcade1Up --- Bug Reports --- Site News

Unread posts | New Replies | Recent posts | Rules | Chatroom | Wiki | File Repository | RSS | Submit news

  

Author Topic: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys  (Read 42001 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7781
  • Last login:Yesterday at 09:24:34 pm
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #280 on: January 13, 2022, 04:57:21 pm »
Any ideas on how to secure the marquee place?  I routed out an area behind the marquee cutout where it will sit but it "floats" meaning when it is in the recessed area there is like 1/4"-1/2" all the way around that the marquee does not fill.  What can I do to keep it in place?  When it is correctly positioned, I also have to fight gravity because it will want to slide down 1/4"-1/2" to sit on the bottom lip of the cutout.



I have 2 pieces of plexiglas and the marquee print sandwiched in between. I am thinking of using packing/scotch tape to keep these 3 pieces together (just slightly covering the edge that will not be seen and then using double-sided tape along that same edge to attach it to the MDF.  This will hold short-term but I think as the MDF soaks up the glue it will eventually fail.  Any ideas on how to keep it in place (not permanently)?

Also, would you scuff the back piece of plexiglas with sandpaper to diffuse the LED light evenly?   :cheers:

Zebidee

  • Trade Count: (+8)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2397
  • Last login:Today at 06:23:28 am
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #281 on: January 13, 2022, 06:03:27 pm »
You can get translucent white plexi designed to diffuse light, I've used it before for marquees, works well. I've also used plain white paper, works ok-ish.
Check out my completed projects!


javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7781
  • Last login:Yesterday at 09:24:34 pm
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #282 on: January 14, 2022, 10:56:44 am »
You can get translucent white plexi designed to diffuse light, I've used it before for marquees, works well. I've also used plain white paper, works ok-ish.

I am not putting one more dollar into these LOL so I think I'm just going to scuff up the plexi I already have cut for behind the marquee.  Going to hopefully get to this today if I can figure out how to hold the marque securely in place.   :cheers:

10yard

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Online Online
  • Posts: 107
  • Last login:Today at 11:50:27 am
  • L BREAK into program
    • DKAFE Frontend
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #283 on: January 14, 2022, 11:52:20 am »
Any ideas on how to secure the marquee place?  I routed out an area behind the marquee cutout where it will sit but it "floats" meaning when it is in the recessed area there is like 1/4"-1/2" all the way around that the marquee does not fill.  What can I do to keep it in place?  When it is correctly positioned, I also have to fight gravity because it will want to slide down 1/4"-1/2" to sit on the bottom lip of the cutout.



I have 2 pieces of plexiglas and the marquee print sandwiched in between. I am thinking of using packing/scotch tape to keep these 3 pieces together (just slightly covering the edge that will not be seen and then using double-sided tape along that same edge to attach it to the MDF.  This will hold short-term but I think as the MDF soaks up the glue it will eventually fail.  Any ideas on how to keep it in place (not permanently)?


You could use "J" brackets (or adapt what brackets you have available) to fix/push the marquee in place within the recess.  I'm thinking something along these lines. 

« Last Edit: January 14, 2022, 11:55:05 am by 10yard »
Check out my Donkey Kong Arcade Frontend at https://github.com/10yard/dkafe#readme

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7781
  • Last login:Yesterday at 09:24:34 pm
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #284 on: January 14, 2022, 12:41:53 pm »
This is giving me an idea.  I think I’m going to tape everything together around the edge so the plexiglas/marquee/plexiglas “sandwich” stays together as one piece making sure the tape won't be visible through the cutout on the front panel and then put a very very thin strip of double sided tape around the edge so I can stick it in place.

Then maybe I can use weatherstripping instead of the J brackets but same idea of wedging it in place.  Then I can add some cleats along the top and bottom to create some pressure against the panel to make sure it doesn’t move because the glue will absorb into the MDF over time.

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7781
  • Last login:Yesterday at 09:24:34 pm
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #285 on: January 14, 2022, 03:38:47 pm »
Alright, I think I have this sorted.  I found some clips in a drawer that seem to be working:



These might have come with a frame or something and I’m sure I’ll be cursing if I ever actually need them but whatever.  I found 8 of them which should be enough for both cabs.

The red you see in the pic is double sided foam tape that I added to the end of each clip to not scratch the plexiglas and also let me tighten the screw down pretty good.

Here’s how it came out:





All that’s left is to sort out the lighting and install the CPs.  :cheers:

bobbyb13

  • Trade Count: (+2)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1360
  • Last login:Yesterday at 07:30:22 pm
  • I believe I may need an intervention
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #286 on: January 14, 2022, 08:19:49 pm »
Removable.
Adjustable.
Inexpensive.
Simple.

Elegant!
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

Zebidee

  • Trade Count: (+8)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2397
  • Last login:Today at 06:23:28 am
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #287 on: January 14, 2022, 08:45:02 pm »
Lol, in my experience most arcade operators would do similar, just use 2 pieces of Perspex/plexi and put the uglier, more scratched one, at the back. Less cost, more convenience.

Having said that, a translucent piece at back really does make a marquee shine, so long as you have some good art/print to put there, and the budget of course :%
Check out my completed projects!


vertexguy

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 311
  • Last login:Today at 12:43:41 am
  • ...but this one goes to 11.
    • forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,161694.0.html
    • V E R T E X G U Y - The Online Portfolio of Chris Kline
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #288 on: January 14, 2022, 11:18:24 pm »
Javery I'm curious what you're planning to light the marquee?  A LED strip?  A simple 1 inch deep cardboard box behind it with the inside painted white and a led strip around the back wall should light that up easily enough.  White surface reflection works wonders

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7781
  • Last login:Yesterday at 09:24:34 pm
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #289 on: January 15, 2022, 12:11:11 pm »
Removable.
Adjustable.
Inexpensive.
Simple.

Elegant!

LOL - thanks.  Inexpensive and elegant are my 2 favorite things although I often fail on the inexpensive part.   :laugh:

Lol, in my experience most arcade operators would do similar, just use 2 pieces of Perspex/plexi and put the uglier, more scratched one, at the back. Less cost, more convenience.

Having said that, a translucent piece at back really does make a marquee shine, so long as you have some good art/print to put there, and the budget of course :%

So I should scuff up the back piece, right?  As it stands now, it is transparent and I think roughing the surface with some sandpaper will help diffuse the light.

Javery I'm curious what you're planning to light the marquee?  A LED strip?  A simple 1 inch deep cardboard box behind it with the inside painted white and a led strip around the back wall should light that up easily enough.  White surface reflection works wonders

I made a cardboard box but lined it with aluminum foil.  Zeb also said I should have covered it in white paper instead so I might do that.  I bought a USB powered LED strip for $8 from Amazon (the kind with the peel off backing to stick it to a surface) but it's not long enough.  At only 18" I can only span the marquee width one time.  I should have bought a longer strip but the 36" strips are only in soft white (not cool white like I wanted).  I am returning them and might take a drive to home depot today to see if I can get something there.

It's the little details like this that always slow me down at the ned because I didn't think it trough and just thought I'd wing it when the time comes...

Zebidee

  • Trade Count: (+8)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2397
  • Last login:Today at 06:23:28 am
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #290 on: January 15, 2022, 06:37:33 pm »
So I should scuff up the back piece, right?  As it stands now, it is transparent and I think roughing the surface with some sandpaper will help diffuse the light.

Honestly, I think roughing up the surface of the back piece is a mistake. It will block more than diffuse the light, and introduce colours that aren't in your art. What you want to see when you look at the marquee is light, filtered through the colours on your marquee art. I rather like your art a lot, like a Monet it is an outdoor scene full of natural light, colour and activity. You don't want to be putting a grey wash through that.

I once did a few Mortal Kombat themed cabs and got some very nice marquee art printed, designed to be backlit. I then experimented with clear perspex, paper, and that translucent white diffuser I mentioned. Then, because I didn't quite trust my own eyes and objectivity, I took photos of the results so I could compare them side-by-side. The translucent white perspex backing won the competition easily, then colours were clear and bright with the lamp itself not visible at all. Done right, the white paper behind looked acceptable in 2nd place, lamp not visible but light/colour was dulled a little. Plain clear perspex didn't diffuse the light at all, uneven bright spots obscured the details in the art, lamp was essentially "visible" and, to my eyes, looked barely acceptable. I didn't try scratching but refer my comments above for why.

I wish I could produce the photos from that test here and now, but it was many years ago now and was only done for myself to understand. Even if I could find the photos, I couldn't be sure of the right captions/descriptions after all these years, so you'll just have to believe me  ;)

Javery I'm curious what you're planning to light the marquee?  A LED strip?  A simple 1 inch deep cardboard box behind it with the inside painted white and a led strip around the back wall should light that up easily enough.  White surface reflection works wonders

I made a cardboard box but lined it with aluminum foil.  Zeb also said I should have covered it in white paper instead so I might do that.  I bought a USB powered LED strip for $8 from Amazon (the kind with the peel off backing to stick it to a surface) but it's not long enough.  At only 18" I can only span the marquee width one time.  I should have bought a longer strip but the 36" strips are only in soft white (not cool white like I wanted).  I am returning them and might take a drive to home depot today to see if I can get something there.

IIRC, what I actually suggested was painting the inside of the box with some plain white paint. This will reflect just the visible light. "Ceiling white" is ideal if you have it, but otherwise (and thinking $$$) whatever leftover cans you might have from painting the house or something will look fine, so long as it is at least mostly white (most wall paints are actually off-white, which is why I recommended ceiling white above). Remove the foil, because it will look too harsh (shiny, reflects images, not just light) and will reflect pretty much everything except gamma rays back at your balls, and don't use paper (feels like a fire hazard).

As for the LED colours - cool white includes more of the light spectrum and will highlight the sky part (blues, violets) of your marquee more. A warmer light will highlight the beach parts (reds, orange, yellow) more. Whatever works for you!

I do love your work on these cabs. The marquee is a standout, a unique part that you want to emphasise for that feeling of an Avery family beach holiday that you want to capture.

Check out my completed projects!


javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7781
  • Last login:Yesterday at 09:24:34 pm
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #291 on: January 16, 2022, 09:44:58 am »
Honestly, I think roughing up the surface of the back piece is a mistake. It will block more than diffuse the light, and introduce colours that aren't in your art. What you want to see when you look at the marquee is light, filtered through the colours on your marquee art. I rather like your art a lot, like a Monet it is an outdoor scene full of natural light, colour and activity. You don't want to be putting a grey wash through that.

I once did a few Mortal Kombat themed cabs and got some very nice marquee art printed, designed to be backlit. I then experimented with clear perspex, paper, and that translucent white diffuser I mentioned. Then, because I didn't quite trust my own eyes and objectivity, I took photos of the results so I could compare them side-by-side. The translucent white perspex backing won the competition easily, then colours were clear and bright with the lamp itself not visible at all. Done right, the white paper behind looked acceptable in 2nd place, lamp not visible but light/colour was dulled a little. Plain clear perspex didn't diffuse the light at all, uneven bright spots obscured the details in the art, lamp was essentially "visible" and, to my eyes, looked barely acceptable. I didn't try scratching but refer my comments above for why.

This is my worry with a completely transparent piece of plexiglas as the backer.  I am afraid the light will not be distributed evenly and I'll see the hot spots behind the marquee.  I'm going to experiment a bit and I might just bite the bullet and get something like THIS but I really don't want to.

IIRC, what I actually suggested was painting the inside of the box with some plain white paint. This will reflect just the visible light. "Ceiling white" is ideal if you have it, but otherwise (and thinking $$$) whatever leftover cans you might have from painting the house or something will look fine, so long as it is at least mostly white (most wall paints are actually off-white, which is why I recommended ceiling white above). Remove the foil, because it will look too harsh (shiny, reflects images, not just light) and will reflect pretty much everything except gamma rays back at your balls, and don't use paper (feels like a fire hazard).

Oh yeah - white paint.  I've got tons of it (I am slowly using up a 5 gallon tub of Bin Zissner) so it should be easy to remove the foil and paint the inside of the box... although painting cardboard seems kind of weird to me but no reason why it shouldn't work.

As for the LED colours - cool white includes more of the light spectrum and will highlight the sky part (blues, violets) of your marquee more. A warmer light will highlight the beach parts (reds, orange, yellow) more. Whatever works for you!

This is good to know - I won't sweat too much over it since these will not be in my house anyway.

I do love your work on these cabs. The marquee is a standout, a unique part that you want to emphasise for that feeling of an Avery family beach holiday that you want to capture.

Thanks - I wanted to make something unique and the art was the only way to do it.  In hindsight I don't think I would have painted the front black knowing how the marquee would turn out but it's only straight on where it's bugging me.  When taken together with the woodgrain side panels it looks really nice.  Also, the bright colors on the CPO should also help liven it up a bit.  Live and learn!   :cheers:

vertexguy

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 311
  • Last login:Today at 12:43:41 am
  • ...but this one goes to 11.
    • forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,161694.0.html
    • V E R T E X G U Y - The Online Portfolio of Chris Kline
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #292 on: January 16, 2022, 08:34:04 pm »
This is my worry with a completely transparent piece of plexiglas as the backer.  I am afraid the light will not be distributed evenly and I'll see the hot spots behind the marquee.  I'm going to experiment a bit and I might just bite the bullet and get something like THIS but I really don't want to.

You are correct in your thinking.  Clear plexi will not diffuse a light source at all.  The thing is, it doesn't need to.  Think of the white box inner walls like giant light sources.  You want to shine your LEDs sideways to illuminate the back white walls, not the art. It's about reflective light.  You might even experiment with white paper on the back of the marquee.  The goal is for the light to bounce around like crazy behind the marquee before finally escaping through it.

Now to be fair my only experience with this approach is on the control and decorative lighting tests from my thread, but its working great so far.  I was going to try the same approach on my marquee when it's time.
« Last Edit: January 16, 2022, 11:57:19 pm by vertexguy »

Zebidee

  • Trade Count: (+8)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2397
  • Last login:Today at 06:23:28 am
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #293 on: January 17, 2022, 07:12:12 am »
I Googled up "light diffuser", very interesting.

If you can't afford a few dollars and the time to go down to your local plastics shop for a light diffuser backing piece for your marquee, try some baking paper. Baking paper is just the right translucency and comes in a roll, so easy to cut to size. If one piece isn't enough, just a second piece and add it in. Even better, it won't burn easily so no added fire risk :D
Check out my completed projects!


javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7781
  • Last login:Yesterday at 09:24:34 pm
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #294 on: January 18, 2022, 02:10:54 pm »
You are correct in your thinking.  Clear plexi will not diffuse a light source at all.  The thing is, it doesn't need to.  Think of the white box inner walls like giant light sources.  You want to shine your LEDs sideways to illuminate the back white walls, not the art. It's about reflective light.  You might even experiment with white paper on the back of the marquee.  The goal is for the light to bounce around like crazy behind the marquee before finally escaping through it.

Now to be fair my only experience with this approach is on the control and decorative lighting tests from my thread, but its working great so far.  I was going to try the same approach on my marquee when it's time.

Well I'm one step closer... just finished painting my cardboard boxes with some Kilz white primer/sealer.  Total slop job but I think it will work.  Ended up painting over layers of blue painter's tape and black cardboard.  It's... white.

I Googled up "light diffuser", very interesting.

If you can't afford a few dollars and the time to go down to your local plastics shop for a light diffuser backing piece for your marquee, try some baking paper. Baking paper is just the right translucency and comes in a roll, so easy to cut to size. If one piece isn't enough, just a second piece and add it in. Even better, it won't burn easily so no added fire risk :D

There has to be some tracing paper in my daughter's art supplies.  I could easily attach a piece to the back of the marquee plexiglas but maybe I won't have to.  The GameOnGrafix marque diffuses the light really well.  I'll know more once I set it all up hopefully this afternoon if I can get off these conference calls...

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7781
  • Last login:Yesterday at 09:24:34 pm
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #295 on: January 23, 2022, 04:02:24 pm »
CPO is applied.  What a pain!





Am I doing this right?  I try to measure on the CP where the two buttons go and then poke holes with a pin through the center points of the buttons on the CPO and then line them up with my measurements, which are always off by a hair. 

Once I align the two holes I clamp the CPO in place and then peel half, stick it down, peel the other half, stick it down and then trim the excess with a razor.  Seems like this shouldn’t take 90 minutes but whatever.

bobbyb13

  • Trade Count: (+2)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1360
  • Last login:Yesterday at 07:30:22 pm
  • I believe I may need an intervention
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #296 on: January 23, 2022, 05:12:40 pm »
Looks awesome.
Not sure there is any other way than what you did?

Some of those adhesives are meant to be 'floated' into place with a light dose of soapy water on the panel and a light squegee treatment.

That scenario buys you a bit of leeway in positioning that the straight drop on method does not, since you have a shot or two at repositioning if you blow it.

There must be a zillion youtube blurbs on it by now.
Which adhesive you are dealing with may be a critical element but I know the Scotchcal stuff I have seen is meant for the float application.
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7781
  • Last login:Yesterday at 09:24:34 pm
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #297 on: January 23, 2022, 05:53:11 pm »
Not sure there is any other way than what you did?

This is what I think as well.  I've watched tutorials on YouTube but they always start off with "get your artwork positioned" which is the part I am not sure I'm doing correctly!

 :dunno

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7781
  • Last login:Yesterday at 09:24:34 pm
javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #298 on: January 25, 2022, 01:39:22 pm »
Buttons and stick installed.  It looks OK.  In my rush to get things done for Christmas, I bought buttons thinking I’d have a black and white CP but it changed to color to match the marquee last minute.  So I have black buttons… which definitely goes with the rest of the cab (black accents, black front panel, coin door, speaker grill, t-molding, etc.) but it looks a little off to me.



I have to keep telling myself this isn’t t mine so I really shouldn’t care…. It looks a lot better in place:



Getting close.  Just need to attach the CP, figure out the marquee light and wire everything, not in that order.
« Last Edit: January 25, 2022, 01:43:00 pm by javeryh »

bobbyb13

  • Trade Count: (+2)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1360
  • Last login:Yesterday at 07:30:22 pm
  • I believe I may need an intervention
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #299 on: January 25, 2022, 04:42:28 pm »
Looks great.

Could always try a white one in the upper right just to see.

If you could find (make?) a white dust washer that would help too I bet.
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

Zebidee

  • Trade Count: (+8)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2397
  • Last login:Today at 06:23:28 am
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #300 on: January 25, 2022, 06:26:49 pm »
Looks great Javeryh!

Good thing is black matches everything, and there is plenty of black on the cab already so it works.

Otherwise a soft pastel light blue or pink for the buttons, maybe with a slight purple/magenta tinge, would work wonderfully. Hard to get good button colours by online order though. Harder again to get P1 and P2 buttons in colours other than black/white.
Check out my completed projects!


PL1

  • Global Moderator
  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Online Online
  • Posts: 8892
  • Last login:Today at 11:59:06 am
  • Designated spam hunter
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #301 on: January 25, 2022, 07:52:48 pm »
Otherwise a soft pastel light blue or pink for the buttons, maybe with a slight purple/magenta tinge, would work wonderfully. Hard to get good button colours by online order though. Harder again to get P1 and P2 buttons in colours other than black/white.
How about doing those custom colors using white player buttons/white start buttons/a white dust washer and Rit Dye?
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135095.msg1422168.html#msg1422168

Note: Rit Dye does not work with translucent buttons.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,151050.msg1578692.html#msg1578692


Scott

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7781
  • Last login:Yesterday at 09:24:34 pm
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #302 on: January 26, 2022, 11:33:08 am »
Looks great.

Could always try a white one in the upper right just to see.

If you could find (make?) a white dust washer that would help too I bet.

Good eye.  I am virtually certain I will replace the dust washer with something smaller and probably white.  It's huge and really stands out.  I think it might actually be the entire reason the CP looks a little off to me.  The black buttons look fine if you isolate them with your eye.

Looks great Javeryh!

Good thing is black matches everything, and there is plenty of black on the cab already so it works.

Otherwise a soft pastel light blue or pink for the buttons, maybe with a slight purple/magenta tinge, would work wonderfully. Hard to get good button colours by online order though. Harder again to get P1 and P2 buttons in colours other than black/white.

Thanks.  Yup, black matches everything and after sleeping on it I'm not as bothered by the look as I was when I popped in the buttons for the first time.  I did buy some white buttons but not enough for an entire CP plus I'd have to order white P1 and P2 start buttons to complete the look.

Otherwise a soft pastel light blue or pink for the buttons, maybe with a slight purple/magenta tinge, would work wonderfully. Hard to get good button colours by online order though. Harder again to get P1 and P2 buttons in colours other than black/white.
How about doing those custom colors using white player buttons/white start buttons/a white dust washer and Rit Dye?
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135095.msg1422168.html#msg1422168

Note: Rit Dye does not work with translucent buttons.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,151050.msg1578692.html#msg1578692

This is something I would totally try but not for this project as much as I want to.  I need to finish these up and not sink any more money into them.  I'm in too deep already!   :cheers:

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7781
  • Last login:Yesterday at 09:24:34 pm
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #303 on: January 26, 2022, 02:39:04 pm »
How the crap do people use these cheap chinese encoders that come with 8" wires??  They don't reach 1/2 the controls!  Now I have to spend a couple hours splicing them together because I ned the weird whit tab that plugs into the encoder itself for each button.

 :banghead: :banghead:

Gilrock

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1021
  • Last login:Today at 10:51:59 am
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #304 on: January 26, 2022, 04:11:15 pm »
Yep.  I only do one splice per wire and then crimp a new blade connector on the other end.  It does allow you to make the wire the correct length.  After doing hundreds of crimps with heat shrink butt connectors for my Christmas show I'm pretty fast at it.

firedance

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 274
  • Last login:Today at 11:22:55 am
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #305 on: January 27, 2022, 06:53:56 am »
How the crap do people use these cheap chinese encoders that come with 8" wires??  They don't reach 1/2 the controls!  Now I have to spend a couple hours splicing them together because I ned the weird whit tab that plugs into the encoder itself for each button.

 :banghead: :banghead:

The bartops i build use these encoders, most of the wires don't need extending, the ones that do i just use spare wires (if any) that come with the kit or cut a wire in half then use similar gauge wire to extend it to the desired length then solder together, hope that makes sense  :)

Mike A

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 5590
  • Last login:Today at 11:39:29 am
  • This plan is foolproof
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #306 on: January 27, 2022, 07:54:25 am »
When you buy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---, expect it to stink.

Gilrock

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1021
  • Last login:Today at 10:51:59 am
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #307 on: January 27, 2022, 08:29:52 am »
I've used a couple of the zero delay encoders and never seen a problem with them.  I didn't know they were shunned here before I bought them...lol.  I also have an old IPAC that I can no longer program.  And yes I know they supposedly have an older program you can use but it don't work.  Not sure if its because of Windows 10 but I'm a software engineer and I couldn't figure it out so I ended up just having to make my programs work with the last way the buttons had been set.

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7781
  • Last login:Yesterday at 09:24:34 pm
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #308 on: January 27, 2022, 09:13:02 am »
Yep.  I only do one splice per wire and then crimp a new blade connector on the other end.  It does allow you to make the wire the correct length.  After doing hundreds of crimps with heat shrink butt connectors for my Christmas show I'm pretty fast at it.

The bartops i build use these encoders, most of the wires don't need extending, the ones that do i just use spare wires (if any) that come with the kit or cut a wire in half then use similar gauge wire to extend it to the desired length then solder together, hope that makes sense  :)

How do you guys do the extending/crimping/soldering?  These have to be like 24 gauge wires - they are so tiny and wilt under any heat.  Should I just make a hook on each end, twist them together and use some heat shrink tubing if I even have some that small?  I might be forced to use electrical tape... ugh I hate this.

When you buy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---, expect it to stink.

True.  I knew these were cheap but looking online I don't see anyone complaining about something so obvious and I also don't see these connectors sold in longer lengths.

Gilrock

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1021
  • Last login:Today at 10:51:59 am
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #309 on: January 27, 2022, 09:24:41 am »
I like using heat shrink butt connectors but I already have a nice crimp tool and a heat gun.  If the wire is thin then I strip it extra long and fold it in half before inserting in the connector for crimping.  I get the pink ones off of Amazon which are good down to 22 awg so folding a 24 awg wire in half will work.  When you heat up the connector it shrinks the plastic and makes the connection strong even though the wire was kinda weak.

Gilrock

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1021
  • Last login:Today at 10:51:59 am
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #310 on: January 27, 2022, 09:26:43 am »
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNFJK0A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just so you know what I'm talking about.  $10 for 240 of them.

Zebidee

  • Trade Count: (+8)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2397
  • Last login:Today at 06:23:28 am
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #311 on: January 27, 2022, 09:46:54 am »
After wiring many cabs I came to the conclusion that you were better off sticking with JAMMA, if possible.

You can buy JAMMA harnesses online cheaply, and they usually come with crimps already attached and labelling so you know which wire for what button etc. Also get yourself a pack of 28 pin JAMMA fingerboards, the male bits that go into the harnesses.

Then all you have to do is solder your keyboard encoder wires to the fingerboard pads, easy stuff, and 8" may be enough. Doing it like this there is probably little need for soldering wire extensions or heat shrink. Saves you a lot of time. Most of your soldering wires together will just be daisy chaining grounds and such, which you'd have to do anyway.

JAMMA is standard so it makes it easier for you to swap things around later. Modular design is better design.

If you can get some 22 AWG wire that will work better. 24 is OK but yeah fragile.
Check out my completed projects!


JDFan

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3448
  • Last login:March 18, 2022, 01:51:44 pm
  • I want to build my own arcade controls!
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #312 on: January 27, 2022, 09:48:28 am »
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNFJK0A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just so you know what I'm talking about.  $10 for 240 of them.

Those and these ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/224099893831 ) and some extra wire makes it simple to lengthen as many as you need quickly ( usually only a couple need the extra length if locating the encoder board on the control panel.

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7781
  • Last login:Yesterday at 09:24:34 pm
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #313 on: January 27, 2022, 11:56:47 am »
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNFJK0A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just so you know what I'm talking about.  $10 for 240 of them.

OK I'm in.  I'l use these for other projects eventually and it will save me the headache of electrical tape or cutting shrink tubing.  The encoder came with more wire than I need so I'll cannibalize the extras for additional wire.

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7781
  • Last login:Yesterday at 09:24:34 pm
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #314 on: January 27, 2022, 03:44:49 pm »
Can’t reach 4 switches!



I also had to angle the encoder so the cables would fit.  It should work and I’ll clean it up with some zip ties but it’s a hot mess.  Things are much tighter than I though they would be. 

Now I wait until those butt connectors arrive tomorrow.  By Sunday night I hope to be playing Pac-Man on at least one of these things.

Gilrock

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1021
  • Last login:Today at 10:51:59 am
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #315 on: January 27, 2022, 04:09:51 pm »
In this other thread you can see where I posted a photo of where I extended some wiring.  I even cutoff most the ends of all the wires so that I could reduce the wires to the exact lengths I needed.  I think a jamma connector would be overkill for this application the only thing I had entering this control panel area was a USB cable and mine was a bartop not a full up arcade.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,165008.msg1740071.html#msg1740071

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7781
  • Last login:Yesterday at 09:24:34 pm
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #316 on: January 27, 2022, 04:33:06 pm »
In this other thread you can see where I posted a photo of where I extended some wiring.  I even cutoff most the ends of all the wires so that I could reduce the wires to the exact lengths I needed.  I think a jamma connector would be overkill for this application the only thing I had entering this control panel area was a USB cable and mine was a bartop not a full up arcade.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,165008.msg1740071.html#msg1740071

Damn that's pretty.  Leaf switches too.  Looks like you didn't even use the UDLR connections on the encoder and just plugged them into buttons labeled K1-K12 and remapped them in MAME?  Did the encoder work with MAME out of the box or did you have to tell MAME it was a joypad and not a keyboard?

Zebidee

  • Trade Count: (+8)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2397
  • Last login:Today at 06:23:28 am
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #317 on: January 28, 2022, 06:12:20 am »
In this other thread you can see where I posted a photo of where I extended some wiring.  I even cutoff most the ends of all the wires so that I could reduce the wires to the exact lengths I needed.  I think a jamma connector would be overkill for this application the only thing I had entering this control panel area was a USB cable and mine was a bartop not a full up arcade.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,165008.msg1740071.html#msg1740071

Well, I like doing JAMMA but have to agree for your bartop it would be overkill. Considering how short the wires are, the way you installed is really the only way to do it. Neat work.

Butt connectors sound terribly kinky :D
Check out my completed projects!


bobbyb13

  • Trade Count: (+2)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1360
  • Last login:Yesterday at 07:30:22 pm
  • I believe I may need an intervention
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #318 on: January 28, 2022, 12:46:28 pm »
Kinky?!
Do you know the difference between erotic and kinky...?

Erotic is when you use a feather.

For kinky you use the whole chicken.
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

Zebidee

  • Trade Count: (+8)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2397
  • Last login:Today at 06:23:28 am
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #319 on: January 28, 2022, 03:16:44 pm »
Kinky?!
Do you know the difference between erotic and kinky...?

Erotic is when you use a feather.

For kinky you use the whole chicken.

We have a great many chickens here   :laugh2:
Check out my completed projects!