Slim Gauntlet Cabinet

[Pazza]

As requested a new thread on the slim gauntlet cabinet Im thinking of building. I have limited space so cannot use the dimensions of the original gauntlet game. So far all I have is a cabinet thats 31" W 70" tall 20" D with a 32" screen.
Im not looking to have a million games on the machine but would need a 4 player controller.

[Mike A]

You mentioned that Gauntlet was the primary game you want to play.

It would be cool to have a cab that looked and felt like an original Gauntlet cab, but streamlined to fit you needs.

You should look at the people who have mounted their widescreen vertically to get better arcade proportions.

[yotsuya]

I could have sworn someone built a slim Gauntlet here. Did you search for those terms?


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[Pazza]

I searched for slim cabinet first for plans of the actual build and then gauntlet control panel second but didt see any slim gauntlet cabinets

[Mike A]

I didn't either. If you want, I can look at the gauntlet plans after work and see if I can slim them down.

It is not really my area of expertise, but I am willing to try.

Unless you want to pursue a different approach. That is up to you.

[Pazza]

Ive seen these two slim cabinet styles, from your experience which one would be easier to cut for a beginner ?

[Mike A]

There really isn't much difference in difficulty.

The problem with those super slim designs is they don't look like an arcade cabinet. Especially when they are stretched out to 3 feet wide.

If you are older than 40 it might matter to you. If you are younger than forty it probably doesn't matter.

[Mike A]

What tools are you working with?

[Pazza]

I understand what you mean but I just dont have the space to fit anything else in. I made a mock up of one that was double the depth so 40" and no way was it going out of any door. I have to compromise on the cabinet by the space I have in my property.

[Mike A]

I understand. Arcade cabs were deep, but they were not wide. They fit through a doorway like a person, straight on. The widescreen builds with the screen horizontal are popular because it is the easiest way. If you flip the screen vertical you can make the cab more proportional. It can fit through a doorway and look like a normal cab and also not tip over.

I can search for the builds that work this way and post a couple of links for you.

There is no need to commit to a design right now. Give it some time and consider all of your options.

[Vigo]

Are you going to try to make it look like a Gauntlet, because neither of those profiles capture the feeling of the original.

Although, I think the original cab style is going to make capturing the feel challenging in a slim design. The monitor was so heavily tilted on the original and the body went straight down from the control panel, which was a very deep control panel.

I did a very rough mockup to see how it might look if I attempted. It isn't great, but considering that you would be slimming the deepest cabinet found in an arcade, it hits on the elements. I relied on jutting a the Control panel and angling the marquee more than it was to make it feel bigger than it really is. And you can't skip the signature notch in the back. 

[Pazza]

Im not to worried if it dosent look like the original machine ,Im more concerned about build difficulty as I only have hand tools.

[Mike A]

let me dig up some vertical designs after work. If you don't like those I can help you with a horizontal design that fits you needs.

[Pazza]

With the screen being vertical will some games not work on this ? As I have a list of games Id like to play Gautlet was just number 1

[yotsuya]

With the screen being vertical will some games not work on this ? As I have a list of games Id like to play Gautlet was just number 1

What’s your game list? Give us your top 10


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[Vigo]

Im not to worried if it dosent look like the original machine ,Im more concerned about build difficulty as I only have hand tools.

Understood. If you are limited to hand tools, you might want to consider a Vigolix. I designed it a few years back at random, and while it is a mini, people have made it at a larger scale and it translated well enough. I'll see if I can dig an example up of a nice bigger one. The nice thing is you only need to make single, straight cuts, (aside from the signature gauntlet jut if you want it).

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,119533.msg1267233.html#msg1267233

[Mike A]

Your cab was one of the ones I was going to dig up. 

[Vigo]

Your cab was one of the ones I was going to dig up. 

  For it's purpose, it may still be the best at what it does. Enables people without the full workshop access to build a functional cabinet. Pre 1up, it was the easiest way to get an affordable machine bigger than a bartop.

[yotsuya]

What’s interesting about gauntlet, it’s not a wide cabinet, but it’s regular-sized deep. Those ones you were previously looking at were almost twice as wide with that horrific control panel.


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[Pazza]

1.Gauntlet

2.Mortal Kombat

3.TMNT

4.Terminator 2

5.House of the dead

6.Street fighter

7.Rampage

8.Simpsons

9.Double dragon

10.1942



Mad Dog mccree was funny

[yotsuya]

1.Gauntlet

2.Mortal Kombat

3.TMNT

4.Terminator 2

5.House of the dead

6.Street fighter

7.Rampage

8.Simpsons

9.Double dragon

10.1942



Mad Dog mccree was funny

So only one game on your list is a vertical game. OK, so you want a horizonal cabinet.

So, of those games, only three of them need for player sticks. I’m pretty sure all of them have two player versions as well. So then, do you really NEED a 4 player cab?


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[Pazza]

What’s interesting about gauntlet, it’s not a wide cabinet, but it’s regular-sized deep. Those ones you were previously looking at were almost twice as wide with that horrific control panel.

I have room width wise but not depth wise, hence why I was looking at the previous cabinets. Ive never said I was going for a particular control panel style lol!!!

[Pazza]

1.Gauntlet

2.Mortal Kombat

3.TMNT

4.Terminator 2

5.House of the dead

6.Street fighter

7.Rampage

8.Simpsons

9.Double dragon

10.1942



Mad Dog mccree was funny

So only one game on your list is a vertical game. OK, so you want a horizonal cabinet.

No, of those games, only three of them need for player sticks. I’m pretty sure all of them have two player versions as well. So then, do you really NEED a 4 player cab?

Yes I need a 4 player cab as Id like myself and 3 others to all be able to play the game at the same time

[Vigo]

How often, though? I am not assuming, but many people experience that they thought they needed 4 players before their build, only to find that 95% of their time, they only really have 1-2 people playing. A compromise I have seen done is have a couple wireless controllers that can be switched on for player 3 and 4. Your know what is best for your needs, but my suggestion is to build for the scenario that will fit your need for 80% of the time.

[yotsuya]

OK, so the next question is, if you absolutely want three and four players, would it be fine if they just gamepads instead of dedicated controls? That’s what some people of done.

Also, are you opposed to a pedestal build? You could wall mount the TV and put the pedestal under it, then pull it out when you’re ready to play. Plenty of people have done those to very satisfying results.


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[Pazza]

Controllers maybe an option instead of 4 sticks but the cabinet as a whole would`t change much would it if I was to either go for 2 0r 4 sticks ? Wouldt the control panel be the only thing that would need changing the cabinet would be the same ?

Id prefer a straight up cabinet to a pedestal

[yotsuya]

Controllers maybe an option instead of 4 sticks but the cabinet as a whole would`t change much would it if I was to either go for 2 0r 4 sticks ? Wouldt the control panel be the only thing that would need changing the cabinet would be the same ?

Id prefer a straight up cabinet to a pedestal

Well, you would need a wider control panel to accommodate four players. Maybe a slim cabinet with a Midway-style control panel (that’s not 4 feet wide).

To me, the main benefit of the Midway is that you don’t have to cut those ridiculous notches in the panel or build them into the control panel box. Simplicity.


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[Pazza]

Shaped like this ? Im not sure what notches you mean

[yotsuya]

I was referring to the aircraft carrier you initially inquired on. But even that one has notches you really don’t need.

Let me find you a good Midway control panel pic...


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[yotsuya]

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[Pazza]

Ok I see what you mean

[Pazza]

This maybe a stupid question but do you make the angle for the controls on the side panels and make the control panel flat or angle the control panel itself when building ?

[yotsuya]

Nothing fancy, a tried and true authentic arcade design. You could build the box regular size, then the cab behind it could be slimmer.


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[yotsuya]

This maybe a stupid question but do you make the angle for the controls on the side panels and make the control panel flat or angle the control panel itself when building ?

On the midway, the part where the control panel rests is flat and the top part of the panel itself slopes a bit. Think of like an L shape, with the control panel resting in the corner where the two meet.


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[Pazza]

Ok so the control panel itself has the angle to it rather than the side panels Im with you. Is that the easiest method

[yotsuya]

Here’s a good read to study, this guy built a slim cab using the Midway profile as an inspiration. You could just do the four player control panel for it.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,114774.msg1217060.html?PHPSESSID=cuq019ujbbud8m8rob358935sn#msg1217060


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[Pazza]

Ok Ill have a look cheers

[yotsuya]

No problem, my friend. We’re here to help you!


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[Gilrock]

One of the first things I do is pick the display I plan to use then design around that.  In this old thread below I bought a 50" TV and mounted it vertically.  You could build something similar and just trim down the width.  I created a custom nVidia profile that displays a 1080x1080 area.  I will say the main downside is most of the Mame artwork libraries these days are for widescreen formats so I've had to create a lot of my own bezels when I've wanted them to look nice.  My SketchUp plans are linked in reply #21.  My control will be removeable.  There was much waffling on artwork along the way.  I'm still actively working the art and spent many hours this weekend on it.  The control panel I made is a 2 player and it does stick out a few inches on the side but I placed the controls so that when I was playing 1 player mode I wasn't too far over to the left.  You can see the control panel completed on page 4 of the thread.  As soon as I finalize the artwork I'll cut the side and finish this thing off.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,141437.0.html

[Mike A]

Thanks Gilrock. This is what I meant by mounting the display vertically. It helps you avoid the stretched out look of widescreen cabs.

That design could easily be tweaked for four players.

[Pazza]

For the number of buttons P1 & P2 6 buttons each but do I need P3 & P4 to have 4 buttons each or would 2 work ?

[yotsuya]

For the number of buttons P1 & P2 6 buttons each but do I need P3 & P4 to have 4 buttons each or would 2 work ?

I think two are fine, unless you’re planning to play some obscure Dungeons & Dragons games


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[Pazza]

Im thinking of leaving the trackball off as not sure how much Ill use that. If Im using a 32inch screen and the width of the screen is 29" is a 31" cabinet width ok ?

[Gilrock]

Measure your doorways that you'll use to move it into the house or wherever its going.  Either the width or the depth needs to fit through there.

[javeryh]

Im thinking of leaving the trackball off as not sure how much Ill use that. If Im using a 32inch screen and the width of the screen is 29" is a 31" cabinet width ok ?

This seems kind of big to me but maybe you are building a widescreen cabinet?  Have you given any thought to mounting it vertically and designating a 4:3 and 3:4 viewable area to maximize screen size for both types of games?

[Mike A]

That is what I recommended earlier.

A vertically mounted display would allow for a better proportioned cab.

[Dread In The Shed]

Measure your doorways that you'll use to move it into the house or wherever its going.  Either the width or the depth needs to fit through there.

That is the best advice I did a large cabinet for a client recently they wanted a 32in monitor inside their cab I told him to check and make sure that it will fit through their door but also down the stairs as they were bringing it into the basement.. long story short I watched her and her next door neighbour punch some serious holes into the wall attempting to bring it down.. no I didn't help them sorry no entering the basement during covid deliveries   

[vertexguy]

Pazza, I would recommend you check out some of the other 4 player build threads to get a lot of good ideas, advice, and lessons learned that will help you decide what's the best solution for YOU.  Everyone has opinions and will offer thoughts, but remember its ultimately your build and what makes you happy and fits your needs.

If you think your 4 player cabinet is worth having even if you only play with 4 people twice a year, then go for it.  But the point is, think about the games you enjoy and realistic number of players that will use it on average to decide if it's worth it for you.  You definitely could make player 3 and 4 be modular additions or use game pads for rare occasional play.

As far as number of buttons, again very game dependent and how future proof you want it.   I would go with 4 to cover everything out there so far.  If you anticipate bringing on new PC games from steam (ie they have a new Ninja Turtles coming out) then you might regret only having 2 buttons on the outer players later on.  Hard to say but most 4 player games tend to use between 2 and 4 buttons.

As far as size, there are ways to help get it around.  For example, the 4 player build I'm currently doing uses threaded inserts so it can be completely disassembled and reassembled to fit through any area needed.  You could theoretically have any size you want that way as long as it fits in your final resting place and you don't mind assembly.  Sure beats trying to lug around a 300+ lb monster.  Regarding the screen orientation, if you're mostly sticking to classics, I agree with Mike that a vertical orientation solution is a pretty cool trick to keep the over all screen size closer to the correct aspect ratios for the games, but still have a decent sized screen.  I almost went that route and am hoping I don't regret my choice later.  One plus to using a wide screen is you can have digital bezel graphics displayed if desired.  Vertical may help make the 4 player design slightly thinner on the main cab but only from the cab perspective.  You still need proper spacing of the players which will make your CP big no matter what.  If your players are all crammed up and hitting each other as they interact with the controls, you probably won't have many enjoyable 4 player sessions.

[zestyphresh]

The problem with those super slim designs is they don't look like an arcade cabinet. Especially when they are stretched out to 3 feet wide.

Agree with this, and that's as someone who built a slimline cabinet. When sketching out designs I found, to my eyes at least, that the narrow plinth was the main problem. If you take that away it then it does seem to help with the visual 'heft' of the machine, assuming it's still a reasonable size of course. Keeping a good sized (or even oversized) marquee/speaker panel seems to help, as does a standard depth control panel. I've got a thread on here (Prong) but you can see a load of my sketches at the bottom of this link - https://imgur.com/gallery/1liQLz8

The MvSC2 and Mimic projects (both on here) were a massive inspiration, especially if you also want to check out the vertical screen, which has already been mentioned in this thread.