Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair

Sega Driving cabinet restoration/conversion -- DAAAATTOOONAAAAAAAaaaaa!

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--- Quote from: Howard_Casto on March 25, 2021, 07:17:42 pm ---If you can't find them in the usual places try automotive stores.... everything will be 12v so it's just a matter of finding the right size.

--- End quote ---
Good tip. I'll do that if I get into a jam.  :cheers:


So tonight's stream was fun! It also forced me to organize the garage/workshop so i could set-up the cameras.  I plan on doing it more often, probably every week I'll jump on for 1.5 hours and do a bit of work live. But during the week I plan on keeping up a steady pace.

Anyone wanting to watch the recording, it's available here:

So I was able to disassemble most of the control panel and assess the work involved. I didn't breakdown the Shifter or the Force Feedback section, I think those are going to be concentrated efforts alone.

The metal dash plate just has a little bit of rust at the top. Not too bad, and can be cleaned up easily.

The panel underbracket is fine, just a little rust here and there, but in good nick.
There are small 8 ohm speakers (tweeters) that installed within the panel. I'm certain this is where the majority of the radio chatter comes out of while playing the game.  These speakers are in bad shape, and there are several holes and cracks in the speaker's themselves.  These will need to be replaced.

The shifter is in rough shape.  The top cover is scratched up, the silver numbers and logo are faded, and a burn mark is present.

The mech is missing the connector, it seems to have been snipped off. The rubbers are disintegrating and need to be replaced. I've already found a site that deals in these replacement parts, I'll order a set.

The Steering and Force Feedback parts need a lot of cleaning. but they all look good, except the drive belts are looking dry and starting to crack.

Cleaning this up and regreasing should be fine. I'll have to test the pot to see if it's still good.

After the stream, I was able to take apart the VR panel.  Man, this thing is rrrrrrrough!

I was able to at least remove the busted buttons, some of the securing rings were really stuck to the metal, so I had to take needle nose vice-grips to them, in the process damaging a couple. No matter I have spares now.

The bulb sockets are done. They were stuffed with crud, and what looks like a jewelry bead in one of them. I don't think they are salvageable, but i can desolder these from the board and use the replacements I picked up.

The PCB is in good shape.

In the next few days I'll work on getting everything cleaned, and the VR panel restored.
I'll post my plans for the plastics next time.

The abuse those buttons have boggles my mind.   I mean it's nigh impossible to crack those clear button caps but then to leave them exposed and let the customers stick their grubby hands in exposed sockets.... I just can't wrap my head around it. 

Let's get this thread up-to-date.

I mentioned this before, there are so many parts in this cab that I have to divide it all up in mini-projects. I decided to start with the Control Panel, which was in rough shape.

First up, the VR Panel:
So this panel was trashed!  Buttons caps missing, gum stuck in the sockets, gross and dirty. 

I was able to desolder the switches, and take it all apart. This was a straight-forward fix. Just clean, replace the switches and button housings, clean the metal and put everything back together.  Voila:

It cleaned up really nice.

Next was to tackle the plastic CP itself.  As I showed you above, the plastics were really beat-up. Tons of scratches, people etching their initials into the top, cracks present... just rough.

After removing all the decals and metal plate, giving it a wash down, I ended up taking multiple grits of sandpaper to the plastic. Smoothed out all the scratches, made sure the surface was rough enough for new paint to adhere to.

All scratches smooooooothed:

Cracks were filled in with epoxy and sanded:

After that I threw it up on a makeshift pedestal for painting.  Hit it with fill-primer first:

Then a few coats of semi-gloss black, with wet sanding in-between the surface came out really nice. Scratches gone!:

Put it all back together to see how it all looks.  I can't decide if i want to go with my (cleaned up) metal plate, or the dashboard looking one:

(the picture with the metal plate has the smoothest wet sand pass on the paint job, and clear coat applied)

Next is the gear shift cover.  Same deal as the dash CP, vandalized scratches. I sanded down the surface so the scratches are smoothed out. Since they weren't too deep i didn't feel the need for fill-in primer, so I hit it with a few coats of metallic black, similar to the original finish.

Then I taped off the numbers and sega logo to apply the metallic shiny silver:

The outcome? Spectacular!

Closely matches the bottle cover:

That's about it for the CP plastics. Next let's tackle the gear shifter.
Disassembled the entire shifter, removed the grime and rust:

I got NOS bumpers for the bottom guides:

The screws for fastening the top plates were stripped to hell, so I had to drill the originals out.  But I ended up buying replacements, unfortunately they didn't have the short ones I needed, so I figured to buy longer ones and just trim 'em:

After all the clean-up was done, I reassembled it all together and re-greased it:

The shifter feels like butter now! The grooves for each position are nice and smooth.

That's about it for now, next up will be the steering and force feedback mechanics. I gotta pull the parts out and give it all a cleaning, as well as confirm the FFB motor is working well.

Stay tuned.

I lied. there's still more.

I wanted to get the monitor sorted out because it was a point of worry. I have multiple spares in my stash, and the monitor that i was originally going to use was only a dual-res Nanao MS9. A spare for my New Astro City.  If I used that one I would have to use a downscaler to get some of the 31khz boards to work nicely with it (like Outrun 2 SP). That would have been a hassle.
But, I did have a spare tri-sync tube without a chassis that I got in a package deal with a couple other monitors.

(the front one here):

This tube was taken out of a PGA Tour Golf Team Challenge cabinet, which uses a WG 9200. The seller told me it was working before he pulled it but he didn't give me the chassis with it, so I figured I'd keep an eye out for a spare.

After months of searching, a WG 9400 chassis appeared on ebay for cheap. "untested" yadda-yadda... aka not working. So I threw a minimum bid of $25 on it, and won!  After shipping it turned out to be just over $40 to my door.
Of course as soon as I got it I wanted to see if it worked.  NOPE.  nothing on screen, chassis kept clicking in a reset loop. So I started looking up repair logs and found there aren't many out there. I know nothing about tri-sync monitors. never repaired one before, and figured instead of going down that rabbit hole right now I'll just pay a pro to fix it. So I got it repaired by PNL , which is well known in SoCal for arcade monitor repairs. 
They fixed it!  But, they didn't do a full recap, or calibrated it for me...which would have costed more.

So, on the bench for new caps!

66 caps! Including the 2 big B+ filter caps.

Here's some comparisons of the before and after new caps and calibration.

Before - colours were off, red was weak, geometry distorted:

After - I was able to get the Red back a bit, and the geometry was a hellava lot better:

For game tests I connected a Sega Lindbergh and ran Outrun 2 SP through 31khz VGA:



Definitely an improvement!  :applaud:

With the monitor sorted out, I relax a bit on the hardware front. But I still got lots of wiring to sort out, here are two piles, Daytona 1 and Daytona 2 full wiring:


--- Quote from: opt2not on March 25, 2021, 04:18:01 pm ---I don't think I mentioned it, but there is a french developer on the Gamoover forums that has been developing special interface boards to make Sega driving cabs more universal. He has developed these interface PCB's that can allow you to use multiple types of racing games in one cabinet, without the need to rewire. They are signal conversion boards that have already been proven with multiple games, as well as condensing settings for PC emulation as well. I know BadMouth and Howard would probably be interested in hearing more about this. Here's the thread:
It's in French, but google or chrome translator can get you by.  I've already ordered boards to support running model 2, model 3, Naomi, and Cruisin’ games.
I hope to be able to support Chihiro in the future, as this project keeps developing and firmware updates are released.

--- End quote ---
Here's a look of  those universal interface boards I got from France:

These boards are going to make hooking up games to the one set of wiring and controls a piece of cake!


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