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| Hacking my own mouse |
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| G@M3FR3@K:
--- Quote ---First off, the way it works is you de-solder the optics on the mouse and run wires from the trackball's optics to the place where the mouse's orignal optics were. Am I correct on that? --- End quote --- I agree with SP, it's better to first remove the mouse optics(usually this consists of 2 LEDs & 2 receivers) before soldering the TB up to the mouse. Take a look at Wiring an Arcade Trackball into a PC (Mouse Hack). --- Quote ---Second, is there a particular brand of mouse that works best? --- End quote --- I would have to say NO. If you read the above tutorial, I would say the best mouse you could use would be one that falls in the same tracking range as the particular Track Ball you are using. What I mean by range is you need to find a mouse thats optical encoding disk (vanes) have similar teeth to the ones on your TB's encoder wheel. The more they are alike (spacing in between teeth) the more accurate your TB will perform. I would completely stay away from using Optical mice. --- Quote ---And lastly, will this work with the 2 --- End quote --- |
| GamingGreg:
You also need to be aware if the optics on the trackball are Active High or Active Low, and which type the mouse board is using. Most likely the mouse is using one that is active high. The Ultimarc trackball only has the optics (no USB or other interface), and the optics are active low. I have one of these and I used one of Oscar's mouse boards for the interface, but because it is active low, I had to add four 1 K pull up resisters to the board, in order to get it to work. If you have some old mice kicking around, then go ahead and try the mouse hack route. However, if you are going to be buying a mouse, I suggest getting one of Oscar's boards instead. They cost nearly the same as a mouse ($9 or $12.50 if you need left and right buttons), and they are cleaner to work with. Also be aware that if you need several mice, you'll be needing USB mice, which again might mean buying them. |
| Edgedamage:
Besides Oscars mouse. All the other mouse hacks I have done have used micro$oft ps2 mice. I have used these mice hacks on happ trackballs and even a original Tempest spinner. Go to a used comp store and they have them in bins for less than $5 each. |
| GamingGreg:
--- Quote from: Minwah on February 24, 2004, 12:02:59 pm --- --- Quote from: crashwg on February 24, 2004, 06:16:27 am ---At $28, I'm pretty sure it doesn't have an interface. Also, there are two versions listed, one has a "modification which allows use with the Mini-PAC board" Hmmm, wonder what that could be? I thought the Mini-PAC worked the same way as the opti-pac when it came to handling optical input devices. --- End quote --- I expect it comes with the optics but no interface - I would do as SirP said and use the trackball's optics if possible. Pure speculation but perhaps the 'modification' has something to do with buffered (Happ) and unbuffered (Wico) types of trackballs? Maybe the Mini-Pac by default expects the Happ type (?) --- End quote --- I noticed that there are several types of Mini-Pacs listed on Andy's site here. One stated it was for Happ trackballs and the other for Ultimarc trackballs (same as Wicos from what I understand). I don't know about the buffering stuff, but my guess is that is has more to deal with whether the optics are active high or active low. (Happs are active high and Wicos/Ultimarcs are active low). Although, the Optipac had a jumper for this, maybe the Mini-Pac does too? I'm just speculating here. |
| G@M3FR3@K:
Does anyone now if the Betson's Imperial TB (used in Golden Tee's) are active high or active low? Are they unbuffered or buffered? ??? Does anyone now where I can find info that explains the meaning of active high/active low? What about unbuffered/buffered (of course I mean in relationship to a Track Ball)? |
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