Restrictor for Mingrip stick

[Roboman]

Anyone had success attaching a restrictor plate or stiffer spring to the Ultimarc minigrip stick (Night Mission mini flight stick).
After searching the forums, I found a post suggesting the green universal restrictor found on Zippy sticks.
Tried this and while the holes match up, the restrictor plate was too thick and butted against the e-clip.
Wondering if there's a solution that doesn't involve a Dremel and some custom job
I like the stick, but the throw's very long and the spring is soft.
I want to use it for things like Tron and Discs of Tron; not so much flying games.

[PL1]

Anyone had success attaching a restrictor plate or stiffer spring to the Ultimarc minigrip stick (Night Mission mini flight stick).
After searching the forums, I found a post suggesting the green universal restrictor found on Zippy sticks.
Tried this and while the holes match up, the restrictor plate was too thick and butted against the e-clip.
Wondering if there's a solution that doesn't involve a Dremel and some custom job
I like the stick, but the throw's very long and the spring is soft.
I want to use it for things like Tron and Discs of Tron; not so much flying games.

A similar question came up recently in this thread.

Looking at the bottom plate of the triggerstick and the Zippyy restrictor, there are 8 plastic nubs on the bottom plate used to align and mount a restrictor plate.

The 4 solid nubs are perfect, but the 0.5mm taller hollow ones do not fit inside the holes in the Zippyy restrictor.
- If they did, the restrictor would seat against the ridges on the bottom plate and the thickness of the Zippyy restrictor would, just barely, not be an issue.
- Looks like the only mod needed to use the Zippyy restrictor for 4-way is to drill out two holes in the restrictor so the hollow nubs fit inside.

The 4 hollow nubs aren't threaded.  You can either use #4-40 or M3 hardware (there's a bit of wiggle, but there's lots of room on the other side of the plate for a nut) or you can run a #6-32 tap through the plate for a snug fit.

The other mod you would have to do on the restrictor for 2-way use is cut away space for two of the screws holding the bottom plate to the triggerstick.




Scott

[Roboman]

Thanks but already tried this and the e-clip butts against the restrictor. See attached photo (used a screw to hold it in place as a test).
This restrictor is actually from an MCA (Australian joystick) so I wonder if the zippy restrictor is slightly thinner.
In any case, it would still be mega tight.
I think the only solution would be to dermel down the nubs so there flush with the original 8-way restrictor on the plate.
Then you would have clearance to add the additional 4-way plate.

[PL1]

Thanks but already tried this and the e-clip butts against the restrictor. See attached photo (used a screw to hold it in place as a test).

That photo clearly shows that the 2.5mm tall solid nubs aren't aligned with the holes in the restrictor so at a minimum the restrictor is 2.5mm higher than it would be if it was properly seated.

If you didn't drill out the restrictor holes for the 3mm tall hollow nubs, the restrictor is 3mm higher than it would be if it was properly seated.

As I mentioned earlier, when the restrictor is fully seated against the ridges, the e-clip just barely clears the restrictor so the extra 2.5-3mm makes all the difference.

This restrictor is actually from an MCA (Australian joystick) so I wonder if the zippy restrictor is slightly thinner.
In any case, it would still be mega tight.

The MCA restrictor could be thicker than the 3mm Zippyy restrictor.   

I think the only solution would be to dermel down the nubs so there flush with the original 8-way restrictor on the plate.
Then you would have clearance to add the additional 4-way plate.

DO NOT remove all of those nubs.
- Trying to hold the restrictor plate in place on a nub-less bottom plate using screws and nuts will definitely introduce slop and alignment problems.

You need at least the four solid ones to align and hold the restrictor in place.
- Don't mod the solid nubs or the associated restrictor plate holes in any way, shape, or form.
- A snug fit for these four nubs and holes is critical.

For the hollow nubs, the best/easiest approach is to carefully drill out the two restrictor plate holes to 5.6mm diameter.
- It's OK if there's a little bit of slop in these holes -- the solid nubs will keep the plate properly aligned.
- You can get away with trimming the hollow nubs flush, but it's harder to do than drilling out the restrictor plate holes.


Scott
P.S. One screw that should be attaching the bottom plate to the body of your stick is in the wrong hole -- it's attaching the plate to the upper right microswitch.

[Roboman]

Many thanks for all your help.
So the penny dropped after your last message (sometimes it's hard to visualise these mods with words).
Got it installed and enjoyed the light cycles for the first time in Tron in years ;-)
Installation was quite footery and I had to widen all six holes surrounding the four way, the four way itself, and also the sides (see attached photo).
Not the prettiest but it feels and plays well. I'm sure there's an easier way to do it; I'm no DIY guy.
Secured it with 3M 15mm bolts, but you could probably get away with 12mm.
Joystick feels a bit tighter, but is still quite clunky. I might try a stiffer spring next.
Games like Tron are far more enjoyable and overall the stick feels better.
This was installed on my X-Arcade, where I generally trial new sticks etc before deciding whether to install it on my proper cab.

[PL1]

Glad to assist.


Scott

[bobbyb13]

Thank you both!
More visual to work with is excellent.