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GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
Zebidee:
--- Quote from: PL1 on June 05, 2024, 08:14:58 pm ---EDIT: Forgot to mention that another case variant to consider is for the SCART version with audio jacks mentioned here.
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Thanks so much for the suggestions Scott. Yes, SCART... and console users are more likely to want SCART, therefore more likely to want a box (as it will likely be going near a TV in a games room, not inside a cab).
BYOACers almost all want VGA versions, I haven't even built any V1.94 units in SCART form yet. I haven't promoted the latest versions past BYOAC. But once I include the everyone else (y'know, non-members), overall maybe 20-25% of people want SCART, so important to include them.
FYI, the installed SCART jack measures 16mm high x 47mm wide (top); 44.5mm wide (bottom). Those width measurements are taken from the outsides of the curved corners. The white lines marked on PCB show the correct footprint and precisely line up with where the SCART jack goes.
The extra audio passthrough RCA jacks (red & white) are the same height and same diameter as the YPbPr jacks (you can hold a ruler up and it goes through the middle of all five jacks). They are all spaced apart by approximately the same amount too (~14mm). The only difference is the audio jacks don't stick out quite as far, are about 2mm shorter than the YPbPr jacks. Again, the white lines marked on the PCB footprint show the correct placement.
Those measurements are taken with a metal ruler & eyeballs, not calipers of any kind, but I took them many times.
Holes for LEDs might not work, as much of the light would be dispersed before even reaching the holes. Extending the LED legs is not a very practical option. One way to do it would be with optic fibre tubing, which would capture the light and direct it (mostly) toward the hole. Sounds fussy and expensive, but maybe not, I really don't know.
EDIT: a little online searching reveals fibre optic tubes are actually not very expensive. Even so, I'm not sure how well they'd work, some testing would be required. The GreenAntz 3mm "bright" LEDs run much dimmer than their actual ratings, drawing less than 1mA each - they only need to be bright enough to see, not to see by, and not bright enough to make you squint or distract from gaming. Generally speaking, green power LED uses a 50K current limiting resistor, and the blue sync LED uses a 10K resistor (these values are only indicative - actual colours and resistor values may vary).
Transparent case may just be easier.
Thanks again naponic, looking very good.
variaprime:
Thank you for all the hard work and updates you've put into this project! Also loving the enclosures I'm seeing above. Sent a PM on purchasing a unit if there are still any spots available. Cheers :cheers:
PL1:
--- Quote from: Zebidee on June 05, 2024, 11:10:43 pm ---FYI, the installed SCART jack measures 16mm high x 47mm wide (top); 44.5mm wide (bottom). Those width measurements are taken from the outsides of the curved corners. The white lines marked on PCB show the correct footprint and precisely line up with where the SCART jack goes.
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If the datasheet for the connector doesn't show the radius of the curved corner, the tool you need to measure the curve is called a fillet gauge.
- There are lots of 3d printable models of them on Thingiverse or you can make custom ones like I did here.
--- Quote from: Zebidee on June 05, 2024, 11:10:43 pm ---Holes for LEDs might not work, as much of the light would be dispersed before even reaching the holes. Extending the LED legs is not a very practical option. One way to do it would be with optic fibre tubing, which would capture the light and direct it (mostly) toward the hole. Sounds fussy and expensive, but maybe not, I really don't know.
--- End quote ---
"Transparent" 3d print filament is usually just somewhat translucent so dim LEDs might be hard to see unless the case is so thin that it it will be too weak.
- My 3d printer came with a sample of translucent PLA. Printed some parts for PBJ with it. They turned out OK for his setup, but it was far from transparent.
If I was modding a case like Naponic's for LED holes, I'd put in 45 degree funnel-like holes (6mm i.d. hole at the bottom) that stopped just a bit above the 3mm LEDs.
- This gives you fairly good viewing angles, almost all printers should be handle a 45 degree overhang, and you don't have to worry about special filaments or light pipes.
- Bonus points for the holes looking like the entrance to an ant hill. :lol
--- Quote from: Zebidee on June 05, 2024, 11:10:43 pm ---Transparent case may just be easier.
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Many people won't want to buy a 1000g roll of specialized filament just to print a single 100g(?) case.
Probably better to design a case that works with any type of filament. ;D
Scott
Zebidee:
All good point Scott. I really don't know 3D printing, and I'm sure what you say about transparent stuff is true. Not sure I'd like funnel-holes for the LEDs though. Am worried that they would have to be pretty long funnels, around 1cm or longer, to get down to the LEDs. On the other hand, maybe that would look fine.
I'm thinking some 3mm optic fibre tube, or maybe a bit wider, and a bit of removable white heat-shrink over the LED end, and the other end glued into a custom hole in the case. When installing into the case, you'd need to slip the heat-shrink caps over the LEDs. I've seen similar in PC case designs for power/HDD LEDs, even some pretty old ones.
Anyway, the point of 3D custom printing is that people can modify to their own tastes. A good basic shell is a great place to start. No need to get caught up in the fiddly details too much (yet).
Naturally, I'm also thinking ahead to the next stage where I'm getting making cases made in quantities and sold as an optional extra.
bobbyb13:
I'm still failing to make time for this fun stuff but I'm stoked to see this continue while I only have time to watch occassionally!