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GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
Rynne:
I received my GreenAntz (from Thailand to Kentucky,USA in <2weeks. FAST!
I am a novice and will report back how good things look when I get moving along with my 15khz drivers but I wanted to say it's legit for anyone reading. The pcb looks well-built with quality and nicely packed. :notworthy:
Zebidee:
--- Quote from: Rynne on March 26, 2021, 09:16:39 pm ---I received my GreenAntz (from Thailand to Kentucky,USA in <2weeks. FAST!
I am a novice and will report back how good things look when I get moving along with my 15khz drivers but I wanted to say it's legit for anyone reading. The pcb looks well-built with quality and nicely packed. :notworthy:
--- End quote ---
Thanks rynne :D
Zebidee:
Another upgrade to announce!
Slide-switch to select sync input mode, H+V or composite. Simpler, tidier, no bits to misplace. Got rid of the jumper and wire arrangement.
Have just completed another batch of these, sold some already.
Also replaced the jumper for LPF filter with a slide-switch (left side, middle, below LED). I am tempted to completely remove switch or jumper here and just leave it in the default DISABLED position. It doesn't add much benefit except if you have a dirty signal, and introduces 800ns lag, so I may just remove it in the future to make it less confusing. Does anybody have an opinion one way or the other?
Reminder: RGB SCART to component versions of GreenAntz are available now. They will work directly with your consoles etc. that output RGB via SCART cable. They have the GreenAntz improved sync tip integration with the luma signal (for a brighter, clearer picture than some other transcoders) and include left/right audio passthrough.
bobbyb13:
Can you offer any wisdom in regard to powering the GreenAntz through the USB-C port, outside of a PC box?
I'm finally ready to test out my Jrok multi Williams here and can get 5v from the power supply and dice up a usb-c cable but have no idea which wires I am tapping to power my GreenAntz board.
Any hints so I don't have to worry about blowing anything up?
:D
Zebidee:
--- Quote from: bobbyb13 on May 07, 2021, 03:34:48 am ---Can you offer any wisdom in regard to powering the GreenAntz through the USB-C port, outside of a PC box?
I'm finally ready to test out my Jrok multi Williams here and can get 5v from the power supply and dice up a usb-c cable but have no idea which wires I am tapping to power my GreenAntz board.
Any hints so I don't have to worry about blowing anything up?
:D
--- End quote ---
Thank you for the question Bobby! The answer is there are a few options.
1) use a normal USB2.0/3.0 to USB-C cable and plug it into a normal USB charge brick, like what you might use for a mobile phone.
2) hack a USB-C cable like you suggested
3) use the 5v and GND landing pads/holes provided on the board, clearly marked, and right between the USB port and the VGA jack. Using these, you can connect GreenAntz directly to the 5v from your DC power supply.
For an arcade cab with no PC, I'd suggest option (3). There is an added advantage here: you can drop in a standard pair of screw terminals here as the holes are spaced a standard 5.08mm (2/10 inch) apart. That means you don't have to solder your wires in, and can remove the GreenAntz easily as needed.
GreenAntz voltage input can be as low as 3v and up to 5.5v, recommended ~5v. It uses only about 80-90mA current with ~5v input.
I will grab a couple of pics in a minute and add it to this post.
EDIT: I added some pics and information to the FAQ post above instead