| Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair |
| Sega Aero City |
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| opt2not:
Let’s keep the momentum going! I hit the sides with some gloss white krylon, mostly on the blemishes and bottom edges. Also bent the bottom edge to get it more straight. And of course, the coin box frame looks a hellava lot better: Didn’t bother painting the footrest area because that gets covered by a bracket and rubber mat. I popped out the coin door hardware and threw it in my drill chuck, spun it up and pressed it on some 120 grit sandpaper to shine them up. I think it turned out well! It’s not a perfect match, the krylon is a slight shade brighter, but you can’t really tell unless you’re up really close. Also, the krylon is not as glossy as the original surface so I plan on hitting this thing with some Novus polish and see if I can get it to look more consistent. All’s done, I’m happy with this. The monitor bezel needs the same treatment, that should be tomorrow. |
| AstroPanthera:
These are going to be gorgeous. Awesome pickup! |
| opt2not:
Thank you, AstroPanthera. :cheers: Last night I took the cleaned-up chassis and started mapping out the caps. All the caps pulled. The previous owner told me he did a cap replacement within the last 5 years, but that was only half true. He replaced maybe 6 caps, but the rest were stock! :( AND those caps he replaced were cheap low-end ones like Jamicon and Elna. Here's the mapping. Sorry I didn't sort the list on the right by number, should have done that...oh well. I found 2 damaged pads when I desoldered those caps. I for sure didn't damage them, as you can see one of them looks like a cold joint, but that's because that one side of the pad is gone. The previous owner must of torched them. Continuity still checks out, but they're hanging on by a thread! I might have to jump these connections for peace-of-mind. Another annoyance is there's a whole lot of silicone glue/paste holding caps down. Some of the glue is holding caps that have no business needing to be held, like the bigger 100uF caps that have thick legs and solder. Those things ain't going anywhere, no point in gluing them down. It's like someone spunked all over this chassis. I haven't nailed down what variant of the MS8-26 this is, because there are a lot of information out there that isn't clear. There are a few known variants, MS8-26A, 26SU, 26SG, and 26SE? I speculated that I have the 26SG due to the monitor model sheet inside the cabinet, but I wasn't 100% sure. When cabs changes hands in it's history, you never know what was left stock and what was replaced. So I wanted to varify what monitor chassis this actually is. After talking to Peter from arcadepartsandrepair.com he sent me a cap list of his kit for the 26SG. I compared it to the caps I pulled from the chassis and neckboard and noticed there are some differences: 2 of the caps are at different values, and 1 of the caps is missing on my chassis. I am not sure if the previous owner just put in the incorrect values on those caps that don't match, but what's weird is that my chassis is missing a C579. The serial numbers on my chassis and the neckboard both match what arcadepartsandrepair have listed on their 26SG kit page. So I'm confused as to why these 3 caps are not consistent with that cap kit list. Anyone have any information you can share so I can lock down this variant? I'm waiting to hear back from Peter at arcadepartsandrepair. Hope he might know what's up. It's so weird. Later today I'm going to tackle touch-up paint on the monitor bezel. This train keeps rollin'! |
| opt2not:
I heard back from ArcadePartsAndRepair about the SG kit and the discrepancies between the 3 caps: --- Quote from: 'Peter @ www.arcadepartsandrepair.com' ---That kit is probably correct for your chassis because that 22uf was upgraded to the 33uf and the cap that is missing isn’t uncommon to find and I would leave it out if the solder looks like it never had one installed plus if it was working. Just add a note to your order to upgrade two of the 33uf caps to 250v just to be safe and someone here will change them in the kit for you. --- End quote --- I’m going to trust Peter and say this is an MS8-26SG. Cap kit ordered. I can’t recommend arcadepartsandrepair.com enough, lots of stock for our needs, and great communication and service. In the meantime, there’s still more bodywork to do. The monitor bezel was a bit rusty, so I took sandpaper to it then repainted it right at sundown, just before it got dark outside: Turned out really nice. While the bezel is drying I went back to the craft store and picked up a darker blue enamel that closer matches the side art. The blue is definitely a closer match, if not just a hair darker, but you can’t really tell unless you were up close: Tried to blend it as best I could: The other side is a bit harder to hide. Lots more damage to the side art: Tonight I’ve got to prep for tomorrow’s stream, so I’m probably only going to clean the dirty wiring I pulled from the cab. |
| morton:
Wish I had seen this before I stripped my Versus City. Lots of good tips. This is one hell of a restore. Wondering if leaving mine in "survivor" condition is worth it after seeing this. I knew when I saw who OP was that this would be quality posting and you did not disappoint! Loving this thread! |
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