Sega Nascar Racing conversion

[fablog]

I bought a Sega Nascar Racing cabinet in a good shape for a 20 years old cabinet. 400$ CAD shipped (approx 300$USD).












I will follow this exact same project on Youtube to restore mine and convert it to a PC cab.

[yellowmustard]

nice project, the one from Pascal?

[fablog]

nice project, the one from Pascal?

Yes it is. Nice guy!

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[fablog]

I tried to clean the seat today but couldn't get a good result. What product do you recommend?

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[nipsmg]

I tried a magic eraser (like everyone recommended) and had no luck on my seat for my SF Rush the Rock cabinet.

My best results (believe it or not) were with Chlorox (bleach) cleaning spray and a paper towel.  Spray on, let it sit for a minuet, then scrub.  Use a little pressure to get into the crevices.

[fablog]

No discoloration?

[Howard_Casto]

I'd try simple green or a vinyl siding cleaner.

[fablog]

OK, I will try that!

I cleaned all the cabinet except the cushion seat.











Not so bad for 20 years of dirt:



Vacumed and Power washed:



The final result:

[fablog]

Just bought a G27. I would like to keep the original arcade shifter and pedals. What do you suggest to do?

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[Howard_Casto]

Pedals are easy.... they are just pots so swap the current pots out with the ones of the correct value (I think it's 10k for logitech) and wire up a cable....you can plug them straight into your wheel.  For the shifter you'll have to probably make a stand alone interface via arduino or something similar as a logitech shifter uses analog values to determine the shift position while a sega shifter is all digital.  That being said, it's just a straight analog value being sent to the wheel, so it should be fairly easy to write an arduino program to read the switches on the joystick and send the appropriate values, so yes, with extra work, that could probably be hooked straight into the wheel as well.

[fablog]

Thanks Howard. I know not much about electricity, I'm only able to cut and connect cables 
That being said, reading this thread, it seem's I don't need to swap the pedal's pots: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=158631.0
What do you think?

[Howard_Casto]

I don't know if the logitech wheels use the pots as a voltage divider or not.  If they do then yes, it should be ok.  You should be able to find pinouts via a google search. 

[fablog]

I will follow your first advice Howard, It will be easyer to swap the pots. Anyone know what pot I should buy? (any link would be appreciated)

[PL1]

Anyone know what pot I should buy? (any link would be appreciated)

Long-life versions by Allen Bradley or Honeywell/Clarostat (RV4 series like this 5k one or this 10k one) are getting hard to find and those two don't have a flat on the shaft so you would probably want to cut one with a Dremel.



Another option is to check the manual to see if the original pots were PN 220-5373 or 220-5374 or 220-5484 -- not sure if Divemaster can special order it for you or if you'd have to order it direct from SuzoHapp.


Scott

[jennifer]

You are not kidding hard to find, them things are like gold anymore, The last ones I bought were like 50.00 apiece...A clever OP could almost buy a used part off E/pay (with the same values of course)or possibly an entire parts machine, and just rob the used pots off of it for about the same money... If you spray them (used carbon wafer) with a contact cleaner, and let dry completly before use (after spinning it back and forth to clean contact) it actually seems to bring them back into values, and prolong its life.

[fablog]

Thanks guys but it seem's I have to put a 10k pot, because the pedals will be connected to a G27 wheel.

[jennifer]

I think what he is referring to is "Heavy duty", they are a carbon disk, where the cheaper modern versions are impregnated plastic, Not as good, especially with heavy use.

[PL1]

Thanks guys but it seem's I have to put a 10k pot, because the pedals will be connected to a G27 wheel.

So . . . the 10k pot on Jameco isn't acceptable?

this 10k one

Scott

[fablog]

Scott, what's jameco? Maybe, there's something I don't understand. It seems, I need to swap my 5K pot in my Sega Nascar racing by a 10K pot, because I will connect the sega pedals to my G27 wheel. Is it right?

[baritonomarchetto]

From my personal experience I would say get those less than 1 euro potentiometers on ebay or bangood or wherever you want and live well. Those long life pots made sense in a "going to be abused for years, by anyone" arcade cabinet, but for home use you will be fine with the cheaper option

[fablog]

From my personal experience I would say get those less than 1 euro potentiometers on ebay or bangood or wherever you want and live well.

Thanks 
Other than the ohms, what specs I should look for?

[Howard_Casto]

Get linear taper and not audio taper.  It's also nice to get the same turning radius, but that can prove impossible and you can calibrate your pedals anyway so I wouldn't worry about that too much.

[baritonomarchetto]

What Howard said. Linear potentiometers are those labelled "B".

[PL1]

If the original pots are still good, use them.
- No need to replace them unless they are not working properly.

Scott, what's jameco?

Guess you missed the links.   

It's an electronic supply company that currently has Clarostat/Honeywell RV4 series pots available.

https://www.jameco.com

5k pot - https://www.jameco.com/z/RV4NAYSD502A-Clarostat-Honeywell-22mm-Linear-Taper-Potentiometer-5K-Ohm-2-Watt-10-_13995.html

10K pot - https://www.jameco.com/z/RV4NAYSD103A-Clarostat-Honeywell-22mm-Linear-Taper-Potentiometer-10k-Ohm-2-Watt-10-_13952.html



There's also the option of this Sega pot from SuzoHapp. (It may be the same pot in your cab -- check the manual to verify)

https://na.suzohapp.com/products/driving_controls/220-5373

Divemaster's arcadeemulator.net site sells SuzoHapp products.  You might consider asking if he can special order them for you. (usually lower cost and lower shipping than ordering direct from SuzoHapp)

http://www.arcadeemulator.net/

It seems, I need to swap my 5K pot in my Sega Nascar racing by a 10K pot, because I will connect the sega pedals to my G27 wheel. Is it right?

That was a concern brought up in the G25 thread you linked above, but jonbenderr found that original arcade (5k) pots will work with the G25 system.

Wiring the original gas/brake pots into the g25 system works beautifully!!! 

I don't have a Logitech wheel/pedals so I can't give any specific advice concerning G25/G27 mods, but here are two basic "electronics-101" analog encoder setup options.

- If the pot is in a 3-wire (potentiometer) configuration, it acts as a voltage divider and the encoder is measuring the voltage on the center tab. (wiper)
-- From what I've seen, this is how the G25/G27 pedals are configured.
-- The pot resistance does not have to match the original in this setup.

- If the pot is in a 2-wire (variable resistor) configuration, it acts as a variable resistor and the encoder is measuring the resistance between the center tab and one of the outer tabs.
-- The pot resistance  in this setup must match the original in this setup.


Scott

[fablog]

Thanks PL1, it's crystal clear!

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[fablog]

I'm wondering how to connect my computer to the original speakers (4 speakers with a SW). The problem is I only have a stereo output jack, no spdif output and no empty PCI slot to plug a sound card. I have an old 5.1 Denon home theatre amp. I checked for an USB external sound card but I worried about the amp inside...

Any idea?

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[aevans0001]

i used this on my Cart Fury (Cruisin USA) Arcade

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KWS33LP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[fablog]

Thanks but I need a 5.1 system.

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[fablog]

I found this https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.ca/-/fr/AmazonBasics-Convertisseur-extracteur-Compatible-Blue-Ray/dp/B07KRWYN4R&ved=2ahUKEwj_j6mJw7_sAhXjQ98KHRDiAzEQFjAAegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw0_URHqi41MAHuUjh8RQhY7. Do you think it could work with an old Denon AVR. My goal is to get all the audio channels from Teknoparrot Games.

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[fablog]

I thought it would be easy to connect the Sega pedals to the G27, but no! I used a DB9 connector  and soldered pin1 with the 5v, pin2 with the accelerator, and pin6 with ground. I get nothing when I tried to test the pedal in windows. I test the break pedal after and....nothing. I'm wondering if the Sega pots are still working. Any idea how to find the problem?

Update: I just saw another G27 pinout and it seem's pin6 and pin9 must be connected together. I'll try tomorrow (fingers crossed).

[baritonomarchetto]

Testing a potentiometer is easy: set your DMM to the right ohm range accordingly to the potentiometer value, put one DMM probe on the central pot pin (wiper) the other on one of the other two and turn the potentiometer from one side to the other, slowly. If you have a smooth value increase/decrease without out of range readings, the pot is ok.
Those pots are solid products but fail from time to time.
Honestly I would suggest you to check your wirings because even a defective (not fully broken) pot would give you some reading. Another possibility is that the G27 is picky on pots values (if they are used as variable resistors, for instance, you need the exact value to have it working correctly).

[fablog]

Thanks Baritonomarchetto I did like you said and it worked, yeah!!
Maybe I have a bad diagram. Here is what I used:


Or, my wiring is bad.

[Howard_Casto]

Yeah what you'll find on both the Logitech and thrustmaster pedals is that in a two pedal setup the third pedal is just grounded out in some way. 

[fablog]

I just rewired, only the gas pedal. I can measure variation at the end of the wire when I press the pedal. I have a doubt, the diagram show the rear (where I soldered the wires) or the front of the DB9 connector?

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[Howard_Casto]

On db connectors pin 1 is pin 1 regardless of the orientation.  You should be able to read numbers printed on the connector in very fine print molded into the plastic. 

[fablog]

That's it Howard, thanks! I didn't see the fine prints so I soldered backward.

Update: it works!! Thanks guys!

[baritonomarchetto]

Being that this is asked from time to time, let me highlight one thing: in the diagram potentiometers are used as voltage dividers (in contrast to variable resistors), so it should be possible to use also 5Kohm pots, commonly used in arcade games, in any of those positions (i.e. for brake, accelerator etc).
There no need to match the values of G27 potentiometers.

[fablog]

I confirm, it works!

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[fablog]

I installed a 32" curved screen (Philips 322E1C), it fits exactly.





I used this monitor holder: https://www.amazon.ca/-/fr/gp/product/B088G28B9R/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3IHYQHCQEL74D&psc=1

I tried the pedals and the G27 register a false clutch signal when I press the gas pedal. Do I need to wire the clutch pin with the ground wire?

[fablog]

 I grounded the clutch, problem solved!

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[PL1]

I tried the pedals and the G27 register a false clutch signal when I press the gas pedal. Do I need to wire the clutch pin with the ground wire?

That can happen when you leave an analog input "floating" with no input connected to an input wire.

The wire acts like an antenna and picks up signals and expanding/collapsing magnetic fields.

I grounded the clutch, problem solved!

That's one good way to fix it.   

If the clutch is on the Z-axis, it may cause a runaway scrolling issue in some front ends.

The un-centered Z-axis (a.k.a. mouse scroll wheel) causes the MAMEUIFX menu (and probably many others) to constantly scroll.

You can avoid that issue by using a pot that isn't attached to a pedal or two *equal value* resistors to make a voltage divider that provides 2.5v on the clutch wiper wire to the encoder so the axis is always centered.
- 1/4W or 1/8W resistors between 2.5k and 50k will be perfect substitutes for pedal pots between 5k and 100k.

     5v ---- resistor 1 ---- clutch wiper ---- resistor 2 ---- ground


Scott

[fablog]

Thanks Scott, I'll check that with my Launchox setup.
I would like to use the 5 arcade  speakers.  I think the input is only 2.0 but the cabinet sound amp output 4.1 channels. Do you think It could be possible to connect it to a computer and get the same result?

[fablog]

Well, a miracle happened, I got the wife approval to put the cabinet in my basement 
When you got the green light, don't wait! You never know what could happen the next day. So I immediately moved it and reconnected everything. The location in my basement is perfect as you can see in the pictures below.





I changed the wires to connect the original pedals to the G27, I went with a phone cable. It's the perfect size to position it below the G27.



The speakers are in working conditions. I need to amplify them, but I'm still looking for a solution to get a 4.1 sound with emulated games. Do you know if it's possible to connect an original sega amp to a PC and get 4.1 channels?

[fablog]

Bye bye Pop rivet:


A friend of mine helped me to cut the plastic part of the dashboard with a rotary tool:



We did the same with the metal part with and angle grinder:




I used an old computer with an I5 CPU (3rd generation), 8GB, and a GTX 960. It only have a stereo output so I bought a used Sound Blaster USB X-finity pro. I bought a used creative labs 7.1 sound system (Inspire P7800) and connected the stock speakers to it. The sub is inside the metal box, right under the seat:


I fixed the G27 to MDF with M10 screws:


Here how it feets inside the dashboard. The rear will be fixed to the metal structure inside the cab.


I bought a VR buttons panel for 25$ (CAD):


To connect the stock shifter to a Zerodelay, I ordered a 3 wire shifter to IPAC to a nice guy in https://www.aussiearcade.com/


To be continued...

[Rockstead]

Good price for the VR buttons, did you find them local or online? I managed to find some local but I paid double what you paid.

Can you tell me what you did to connect the buttons, did you leave the original circuit board or did you remove it and wire each light?

[fablog]

The same guy who sold me the cabinet has that in stock. It wasn't a normal price
It's still not connected, it's not a priority right now. I need to buy a PAC drive and itshould work with a Zero delay, the same I will use for the shifter.

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[fablog]

Howard, Is it possible to use an Arduino with Mamehooker to control the lamps?

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[Howard_Casto]

Yeah, others have done it via the serial interface.   I don't have a good example to post unfortunately.   

[fablog]

OK thanks Howard!

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[baritonomarchetto]

I wrote a full guide about Mame outputs, arduino and cheap driver boards. There are also step-by-step instructions on how to use mamehooker and arduino. It's in Italian, but maybe google translate is good enought to let you understand now 

Here is the link (it's another forum, feel free to delete the link on this post if it's a problem)

https://coinoparena.forumfree.it/m/?t=77556101

[fablog]

Thanks Barito. My knowledge in electronic is very limited. After reading your tutorial I'm wondering if it would be easier to buy a Pac-drive instead. It seems I have to use transistors. What do you think?

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[baritonomarchetto]

Well, if this is your conclusion, then I failed! 

In the link above you have an almost step-by-step guide to solve your problem, so it's only a matter of spending the due time on it.
If you start a project a little more complex than installing a jpac and seting up a PC (like your project) you should take your time and study a little. Almost everithing has just written, as you can see... and for questions, forums like this are goldmines.

Anyway the pac drive is not enought to control your lamps (for sure is not enought for leader lamps, not only because the current rating, but also because those are likely AC and not DC): if I am correct, it can control no more than 500 mA total, so you have to rely on some driver board antway. Looks like it's based on simple Darlinghton arrays.
It could be sufficient for view lamps, but only because they play one at a time...

[fablog]

I was just wondering, I don't have any opinion on the subject I don't have enough spare time recently, so I weight my options. I don't have leader lamps in my cab, so I'm looking for the easiest solution. Thanks for your help, it's very appreciated.

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