Fixing My F Up

[GTchr1s]

This is the cab I bought on CL. This is the first cab I have bought or owned. I had no idea what to look for when buying a cab. I got this box home and opened it up. The whole thing looked pretty simple on further examination of the inside, and it looked like there was a lot of room for improvements.

After doing some research, this is my puch list:

1. It has a cheapo $30.00 60 in 1 board - I have a nice PC that I was not using that I got MAME and Launchbox running on. Since all the controls are running through the exisiting arcade board I'll need something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FZ6QVWO/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2W7TU6WG7J3M6 to get the controls to communicate with the PC.

2. The power strip is really cheap - I'm going to pick this up https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006PUDQK/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

3. The controls suck 

4. The monitor is a POS

5. The CP looks like ass. After getting trolled on the forum for looking at a 4 player "aircraft carrier" CP and speaking to my wife, I am going to go with a 2 player setup.

6. The power switch is in the very back

7. I am redoing all the wiring

[javeryh]

You can fix the image by changing the html tag to ["img width=384 height=512"]http://hyperlinktopicture[/img] (without the quotes).

I would get an iPac2 from Ultimarc instead of that encoder you linked from Amazon.  It's just a better quality encoder.  Everything you listed can be easily fixed/redone.  Make sure you plan it out, take lots of pictures and post here when you aren't sure what to do.

Good luck.

[Mike A]

I would post here first even if you think you are sure of what to do.

You might have to wade through some dumb jokes and general nonsense, but we are a helpful bunch.

[GTchr1s]

You can fix the image by changing the html tag to ["img width=384 height=512"]http://hyperlinktopicture[/img] (without the quotes).

The image is uploaded to the site, not hosted externally. I do not see a link when I go to edit the post.

[yamatetsu]

Your image is an attachment. You would see a link if you posted your pic in the text (menu above the emojis, 2nd row, 1st button ('Insert Image')).

[javeryh]

It should display properly if it is attached.

EDIT: I guess not lol

EDIT2: I linked it from a file hosting site and it looks better.

[leapinlew]

That cabinet has some decent elements. Someone took the time to line up the artwork on the bezel.

I had a similar speaker situation as yours. I ended up putting some Halo eyes backwards to illuminate the speakers. It turned out pretty cool.

[Laythe]

Sorry if the razzing on the Jarrett-designed 4p panel got to you.  That was mostly us entertaining ourselves, and not intended to be at your expense.

Lot of people go for a 4p panel, and most people find they only ever get maybe two people on it at a time.  If you do have a use case and want to go for a 4p panel, there are in my opinion better designs than that.  Welcome aboard, sorry for the hard time - which isn't a promise we won't give you a hard time in the future.  Cheers!

[Titchgamer]

Who puts a vertical monitor on a 6 button machine?
How odd lol

Still welcome to the forum.

As above, Get a IPAC.

This is very much a “get what ya pay for” kind of hobby.
Buy cheap buy twice, Get the good stuff first time round

[GTchr1s]

Who puts a vertical monitor on a 6 button machine?
How odd lol

Still welcome to the forum.

As above, Get a IPAC.

This is very much a “get what ya pay for” kind of hobby.
Buy cheap buy twice, Get the good stuff first time round

I totally agree with you there, you generally get what you pay for; that's why I do a lot of projects myself.

After looking inside, the monitor is a POS, its on the punch list to upgrade. I didn't even want to post about this machine, I definitely have buyers remorse after doing a lot more research. I wanted to get rid of it and build an entire new machine but, TWMBO said I have to live with this one for now. I really want to make this machine right and flip it, then build a new one.

I ordered an IPAC, new smart strip, and a on/off switch so I don't have to push it away from the wall to power it on/off.

Regarding the 4 player panel, I get it after reading through a bunch more threads. No problem about the hard time. I thought the guys on the Mustang forums were brutal, they got nothing on you all. 

[leapinlew]

I thought the guys on the Mustang forums were brutal, they got nothing on you all. 

That wasn't even a bad thread! The bad ones have been post helled. It's been a point of contention around here, as the welcome wagon long since left and what's left is a clique. It's been relatively quiet lately, and I think it's just because the site is slowing down so much.

Your machine looks like a good base to start from and we've all made questionable purchases over the years. Fix it up the way you want and share the results with us. I always enjoy a good rags to riches arcade project.

[Mike A]

Stick your toes in the pool at KLOV. Those guys will chew them off.

[javeryh]

I thought the guys on the Mustang forums were brutal, they got nothing on you all. 

That wasn't even a bad thread! The bad ones have been post helled. It's been a point of contention around here, as the welcome wagon long since left and what's left is a clique. It's been relatively quiet lately, and I think it's just because the site is slowing down so much.

Your machine looks like a good base to start from and we've all made questionable purchases over the years. Fix it up the way you want and share the results with us. I always enjoy a good rags to riches arcade project.

It makes no sense at all to me.  Home arcade cabinets have never been more popular.  You would think this site would be mobbed with people.

[yotsuya]

I thought the guys on the Mustang forums were brutal, they got nothing on you all. 

That wasn't even a bad thread! The bad ones have been post helled. It's been a point of contention around here, as the welcome wagon long since left and what's left is a clique. It's been relatively quiet lately, and I think it's just because the site is slowing down so much.

Your machine looks like a good base to start from and we've all made questionable purchases over the years. Fix it up the way you want and share the results with us. I always enjoy a good rags to riches arcade project.

It makes no sense at all to me.  Home arcade cabinets have never been more popular.  You would think this site would be mobbed with people.

No one wants to take the time to build when you can buy 5 toys and proudly say you have an arcade. Hell, if they had them in 2010, I mighta gone that route as well.


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[leapinlew]

I thought the guys on the Mustang forums were brutal, they got nothing on you all. 

That wasn't even a bad thread! The bad ones have been post helled. It's been a point of contention around here, as the welcome wagon long since left and what's left is a clique. It's been relatively quiet lately, and I think it's just because the site is slowing down so much.

Your machine looks like a good base to start from and we've all made questionable purchases over the years. Fix it up the way you want and share the results with us. I always enjoy a good rags to riches arcade project.

It makes no sense at all to me.  Home arcade cabinets have never been more popular.  You would think this site would be mobbed with people.

No one wants to take the time to build when you can buy 5 toys and proudly say you have an arcade. Hell, if they had them in 2010, I mighta gone that route as well.

So true. Except, I'm sure some of you authenticade folks would still be drawn to the real deal. Me though, I'm a bit of a hack. I have some preferences, but what's available today, I bet would've scratched the itch for me. I've been doing this for a decade and a half and I still much rather prefer the ease of emulation over authentic hardware.

I think this site doesn't draw folks in for a variety of reasons, but I'm wondering how GGG, ultimarc and GameonGrafix businesses are fairing. Seems the modding business is booming.

Truth is, my time is short too. It's an end of an era. I'm playing more, modding less, and just moving on. It's been a great ride.

[pbj]

Every problem has been solved.  What’s there to discuss?

You can get everything you need from Amazon delivered in 2 hours.  Why deal with ‘quirky’ vendors anymore?  I absolutely cringe at the ---That which is odiferous and causeth plants to grow--- and personalities we had to tolerate back then.  Some of them made a living despite themselves.

I’ve been in this 20 years and I 100% would have been happy with Arcade1ups when I started.  Hell, I ponder trashing it all and getting a line up of those now.  Yeah, it’s not the same but they’re like $200 and weigh 50lbs.



 

[Mike A]

I will be buried in one of my 300 pound arcade cabinets.

Fixing them is part of the draw for me.

I put on my operator shirt during my arcade parties and I help people with issues as i drink mass quantities of alcohol.

The kids think I am a wizard because I can fix minor problems. Every adult who enters my house has some comment, or memory associated with arcade games.

One of the laborers who fixed my basement remembers Vanguard because it was the only arcade game he ever saw as a kid growing up in Honduras.

I fired it up for him and I thought he was going to pee himself. He had a great time playing.

You guys can get old and buy arcade 1ups or whatever else.

I refuse to grow up.

[javeryh]

I guess I just like building stuff and learning stuff... and I also like a challenge.  The A1UP cabinets do not appeal to me at all but I am glad they exist.  Have any of you ever looked around at the reddit r/cade section?  It is hilarious... but it is a fairly active community.  Seems like there would be at least a percentage of them who would like to dive in deeper but what do I know.

[Mike A]

Those clowns did dive deeper. Too bad it was head first off the high dive into the kiddie pool.

[nipsmg]

ok so.. Here goes some suggestions.

That was a GlobalVR PGA Tour cabinet.  I know a LOT about these cabinets. 

This is an EXCELLENT cabinet for a MAME conversion.  There's TONS of room in the bottom for whatever you need, the CP box has a great design and is so easy to service.

For a monitor, the largest screen you can fit inside this is a Dell U3014 (or 3014t) with the case removed. It's an excellent monitor.  It's pretty much the gold standard for CRT replacements in these cabinets for PGA owners.  You can find them on ebay.

For a bezel, just get a 1/8 flat plastic sheet: https://www.ebay.com/itm/142780077092   

Measure out where the opening should be.  Draw it out with a sharpie (silver, etc) or pencil/chalk.  Get a straightedge and a Xacto knife.  For each edge of the cutout put down the straighedge and score 4 or 5 times deeply and slowly with a sharp xacto.  The center will snap out.. (Be careful on the side edges (do them first) as the will be narrow.

--

For controls: Get an Ipac2 (for a 2 player cabinet), an Ipac 4 (for a 4 player cabinet), or an Ultimarc Ultimate IO (if you're doing LEDs).. these boards include optical inputs for a trackball as well, and u,d,l,r,coin,start, and (up to) 8 buttons per player plus others.

For joysticks:  I HIGHLY, HIGHLY recommend Ultimarc ServoStiks.  They are excellent 8-way joysticks that AUTOMATICALLY swtich to 4-way via a servo attached to the joystick.  Most frontends make it easy to incorporate.  I've had 4 player aircraft carrier panels, panels with separate 4 ways and spinners, etc.  Without fail, having to reach over controls/buttons to use a 4-way for pacman turned EVERYONE off, they tried to use the 8-way, couldn't and gave up.   my most recent cabinet has 2 servo stiks, 7 buttons per player + coin/start, a trackball, and 4 "admin" buttons.  This cab has gotten the most play becuase it's SIMPLE.  But most importantly it's simpler and more enjoyable FOR ME... and I play it more.

------

A cabinet like this with a HUGE back panel, tons of open room in the cabinet, and ease of access to the CP is a godsend.  This might be my 2nd favorite cabinet for mame conversions next to the Golden Tee Fore style. They're HUGE, but they're amazing. 

Or hell, you can convert it back to a PGA Team Challenge and come play online with the community

[GTchris]

The cabinet is huge, after looking around it really is big compared to others, but it fits in the space I have.

I ordered an Ipac 2. It will be here this weekend.

I was really thinking about the controllers, it currently has 8 ways and DK and Pac-Man are very hard to play. I had been looking at different ones, I was going between the sticks with servos or the sticks that can be manually switched.

The monitor, I am thinking about a flat screen LED


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[GTchr1s]

ok so.. Here goes some suggestions.

That was a GlobalVR PGA Tour cabinet.  I know a LOT about these cabinets. 

This is an EXCELLENT cabinet for a MAME conversion.  There's TONS of room in the bottom for whatever you need, the CP box has a great design and is so easy to service.

For a monitor, the largest screen you can fit inside this is a Dell U3014 (or 3014t) with the case removed. It's an excellent monitor.  It's pretty much the gold standard for CRT replacements in these cabinets for PGA owners.  You can find them on ebay.

For a bezel, just get a 1/8 flat plastic sheet: https://www.ebay.com/itm/142780077092   

Measure out where the opening should be.  Draw it out with a sharpie (silver, etc) or pencil/chalk.  Get a straightedge and a Xacto knife.  For each edge of the cutout put down the straighedge and score 4 or 5 times deeply and slowly with a sharp xacto.  The center will snap out.. (Be careful on the side edges (do them first) as the will be narrow.

--

For controls: Get an Ipac2 (for a 2 player cabinet), an Ipac 4 (for a 4 player cabinet), or an Ultimarc Ultimate IO (if you're doing LEDs).. these boards include optical inputs for a trackball as well, and u,d,l,r,coin,start, and (up to) 8 buttons per player plus others.

For joysticks:  I HIGHLY, HIGHLY recommend Ultimarc ServoStiks.  They are excellent 8-way joysticks that AUTOMATICALLY swtich to 4-way via a servo attached to the joystick.  Most frontends make it easy to incorporate.  I've had 4 player aircraft carrier panels, panels with separate 4 ways and spinners, etc.  Without fail, having to reach over controls/buttons to use a 4-way for pacman turned EVERYONE off, they tried to use the 8-way, couldn't and gave up.   my most recent cabinet has 2 servo stiks, 7 buttons per player + coin/start, a trackball, and 4 "admin" buttons.  This cab has gotten the most play becuase it's SIMPLE.  But most importantly it's simpler and more enjoyable FOR ME... and I play it more.

------

A cabinet like this with a HUGE back panel, tons of open room in the cabinet, and ease of access to the CP is a godsend.  This might be my 2nd favorite cabinet for mame conversions next to the Golden Tee Fore style. They're HUGE, but they're amazing. 

Or hell, you can convert it back to a PGA Team Challenge and come play online with the community

Thanks for the suggestion for the monitor on the golden tee cabinet. I was looking for a 30" as suggested. That looks like an off size monitor, although it would fill up the space really nice. My wife will not let me spend any/much more money on this cabinet at the moment. I have a 27" that I am not doing anything with, would you suggest mounting it horizontally for now until I can get my hands on a 30"?

All the parts I ordered have shown up, (besides the mounting hardware for the speaker covers) and I have the PC I am putting in this ready to go.

I am going to need to address the CP at some point, the previous owner mounted the joysticks too close to the buttons, I cannot squeeze a 7th button for the thumb position in there.

[nipsmg]

So.. that mounting decision is likely due to the size of the panel vs the size of the box underneath.  If moved more left, you’d probably have to cut away some of the sidewall of the box.

I’d highly suggest looking at ServoStiks and mounting the joystick with the servo motor closest to the monitor.

I love the 6+ 1 offset for MK and NeoGeo (the bottom offset + 3 are pretty much a standard now geo layout.

If you properly cut/counter sink the joystick from the bottom with a ServoStik I am PRETTY sure you can get that layout to fit but not 100% sure. (The mounting bracket may be “outside” the box dimensions but it’ll be counter sunk so it won’t matter.)

On the 27” monitor mounted horizontally  it’ll be perfectly fine. Just make sure of the following:

You mount the TV / monitor so the LCD is at the same angle and the front is exactly in line with the bezel retaining strips on the left and right (so the screen will be right up against the Polycarbonate bezel).

You buy that polycarbonate sheet and cut it properly.  Buy a few, the sheets are cheap and the shipping is not, it’s cheaper to buy more than one in case you screw it up.  Hell, buy 3 so you can replace it if you do the 30” later on.

I’d be happy to give you the total height/width measurement off mine when you need it so you can just concentrate on placement of the screen cutout.

If you do decide to go with the u3014/u3014t, check ebay/Facebook marketplace often.  I was able to grab one for $199 refurbished w/2 month warranty.  Works amazing. (I ended up selling it to my uncle who uses it as his daily driver and LOVES it).

The next best option would be a Visio e291/a1 or a e291i/a1 if you can somehow miraculously come across one.  They fit like a glove. However max res is 720p on the Visio.

[nipsmg]

Also if you don’t want that card reader let me know.  I know some people who will want that.

[GTchr1s]

So.. that mounting decision is likely due to the size of the panel vs the size of the box underneath.  If moved more left, you’d probably have to cut away some of the sidewall of the box.

I’d highly suggest looking at ServoStiks and mounting the joystick with the servo motor closest to the monitor.

I love the 6+ 1 offset for MK and NeoGeo (the bottom offset + 3 are pretty much a standard now geo layout.

If you properly cut/counter sink the joystick from the bottom with a ServoStik I am PRETTY sure you can get that layout to fit but not 100% sure. (The mounting bracket may be “outside” the box dimensions but it’ll be counter sunk so it won’t matter.)

Thanks for the reply. I sent you a PM about the card reader.

I have the servo sticks to install.

Regarding the CP, I would really like to replace this one. On the CP I have been a bit conflicted on a layout. I know that Street Fighter and Killer Instinct use pretty much the same 6 button layout, which also seems to work well for most other games; but I am more of a Mortal Kombat fan. Is the only solution here to build another box with a Mortal Kombat CP layout? The 5 button layout of MK looks to be pretty unique. I hear what you are saying about the 7th "thumb" button being used for MK, but that is really the "run" button position on MK3 and the block was in the middle position for these older arcades, correct?

[leapinlew]

So.. that mounting decision is likely due to the size of the panel vs the size of the box underneath.  If moved more left, you’d probably have to cut away some of the sidewall of the box.

I’d highly suggest looking at ServoStiks and mounting the joystick with the servo motor closest to the monitor.

I love the 6+ 1 offset for MK and NeoGeo (the bottom offset + 3 are pretty much a standard now geo layout.

If you properly cut/counter sink the joystick from the bottom with a ServoStik I am PRETTY sure you can get that layout to fit but not 100% sure. (The mounting bracket may be “outside” the box dimensions but it’ll be counter sunk so it won’t matter.)

Thanks for the reply. I sent you a PM about the card reader.

I have the servo sticks to install.

Regarding the CP, I would really like to replace this one. On the CP I have been a bit conflicted on a layout. I know that Street Fighter and Killer Instinct use pretty much the same 6 button layout, which also seems to work well for most other games; but I am more of a Mortal Kombat fan. Is the only solution here to build another box with a Mortal Kombat CP layout? The 5 button layout of MK looks to be pretty unique. I hear what you are saying about the 7th "thumb" button being used for MK, but that is really the "run" button position on MK3 and the block was in the middle position for these older arcades, correct?

I tried to use my 6 button SF layout for MK and it didn't work for me. Everyone is different, but MK isn't MK unless you are using the correct button layout.

[GTchris]

I have the arcade somewhat respectable atm. I wired a remote switch to the pc I installed, then hooked that to a smart strip. That powers up / down everything.

Got the ipac2 controller installed, works pretty good. One of the default mapped keys for Big Box is “x” for exit. One of the default buttons for the iPac2 is “x” for I believe button 6. That was a fun one to figure out.

Installed t nuts and mounted the joysticks from the underside so there are no longer screw heads on the top of the CP.

Have an issue with a few random games, like Mortal Kombat 1. When I start the game it runs perfect, but when it comes time to continue game the counter races to zero as if someone is holding down a button. Then it automatically selects a player, for player one the cursor is default Kano

I installed a 27” monitor. I made a ghetto bezel for now using some heavy black cardboard I had on hand. When it comes time to do a proper bezel I have a decent templet now. The corner the arcade is in is dark, it does not look too bad.

Set up the PC so it launches right into Big Box after startup. It’s a pretty cool front end.

I’m glad I spent time setting up the software and got the games working before installation of all the hardware. Sitting in front of the box hunched over a keyboard kind of sucks.

Still have to figure out the trackball. The connection does not match up with the Ipac2. I am probably going to have to do some testing to find out which pins I’ll need line up. I’ll put a pic here if anyone has any ideas that would save me some time.

Still to do, eventually a different CP and bezel, set up servo sticks to change from 8/4 for appropriate games, get Daphne working with Launch Box, add USB ports to the front.


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[GTchris]

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[GTchris]

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[GTchris]

Here is the connector for the trackball



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[PL1]

Installed t nuts and mounted the joysticks from the underside so there are no longer screw heads on the top of the CP.

Please tell me that you didn't install t-nuts like these on the underside of the panel where the forces applied to the joystick can work them loose.   



They should be countersunk into the top of the panel.



Since you've already got the art applied to the control panel, you should use either carriage bolts or threaded inserts.


Scott

[GTchris]

They are installed as you have pictured. The top of the tnut is sandwiched between the wood and the plastic cp cover. The holes were already drilled into the top of the CP, there were pan head bolts poking through the top when I bought it.

I pulled off the plastic cover, took a spade bit and drilled down about 1/8” so the tops of the tnuts sit flush under the plastic.

They way you were assuming I installed them definitely does not sound correct to me.

I think the art in the CP sucks, the cabinet came that way. It is actually imprinted on the underside of the plastic. So I would need to get a new piece of plastic to sandwich new art there.

I don’t like the layout of the current cp, so I’ll be addressing that later.

Really, after going through this process I would like to sell this box and build an entirely different cabinet.


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[PL1]

They are installed as you have pictured. The top of the tnut is sandwiched between the wood and the plastic cp cover.

Good.   

I think the art in the CP sucks, the cabinet came that way. It is actually imprinted on the underside of the plastic.

That's what I missed.  The art is usually attached to the panel, not the plexi.

They way you were assuming I installed them definitely does not sound correct to me.

Somebody installed them that way a few years ago.  It was a self-critiquing error.   

IIRC the prongs/brads worked loose and the joystick dropped down.    


Scott