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BUTTONS! - microswitches vs leaf
GaRy:o):
BUTTONS! - microswitches vs leaf
i have 2 panels one with leaf (WICO) and one with microswitches (HAPPS) .. the microswitches are cr@p.
Defender and track and field are impossible.
is there any way of modifying HAPP/Cherry microswitches so they act like leafs? anyone got an image of what is inside a CHERRY switch.?
TIA
regards,
GaRy:o)
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1UP:
It would help if you described exactly what the problem is. I've only used microswitches, so what is the difference in feel with the leafs?
All that's inside a MS is a metal contact, and a spring. The spring is pushed by the little plastic plunger you see poking out the top of the switch. The spring is tensioned so that it normally holds the switch OPEN. When the plastic plunger is pushed down against the spring, it shifts the direction that the spring is pulling in. When there is enough tension pulling it down, it SNAPS into the CLOSED position.
If the difference in feel is the "breaking point", one possible solution (rather than breaking apart switches to modify them) would be to get some of the Happs microswitch replacements, the ones with metal actuator levers like you find on the bottoms of joysticks. If you put these into the regular Happs buttons, you might be able to set a different breaking point for the switches by bending the metal actuators until it meets your liking.
erikthecat:
i think you hit the 'nail' / problem right on the head!
it's the ...'when there is enough tension pulling it down, it SNAPS into the CLOSED position' where the problem lies.
the action is slower than a leaf (,but then again the microswitch is more positive,'swings and roundabouts' i spoze). games like Defender need a fast action otherwise the landers go through the gaps in the wall of fire.
the HAPP replacement sounds like it may work, i didn't realise there were microswitches where you could alter the tension?!.
would you be able to send me a link of the page you were looking at (www.happcontrols.com/????
is this a 'mountain out of a mole hill' thing?
yours obsessive (ly)
Regards,
GaRy:o)
Grasshopper:
According to previous posts different makes of microswitch produce different results. I can't verify this as so far I have only bought leaf buttons. However I've noticed from using arcade machines that some microswitch pushbuttons do produce much more of a click than others.
I know that Happs sell at least two different brands of miscroswitch (Cherry and Zippy). I would suggest that you buy one of each type and experiment.
If you do this, then please could you post any conclusions that you come to on this message board.
1UP:
Here's what the switches look like:
http://www.therealbobroberts.com probably has the best price for these, at 10 for $12.50. Just look for "Replacement Cherry .187 tabs w/actuators 10 for $12.50 ".
I noticed that the Happ buttons ony switch when you push them about 1/2 way down. The idea would be to bend the very end of the actuator right above the actual switch, so that the button's plunger will have more leverage and push it down sooner. That way you can set the switching point sooner.
The other (cheaper) way to do this would be to go to a hobby shop and ask for Plastruct strips, used for modifying plastic models. You want some pretty thin ones (maybe about a millimeter or 1/16" thick.) Try cutting off a small square of the stuff just about the size of the plunger feet on your button. Super glue it to the foot that hits the switch. This will make the switch trip sooner. You might have to sand down the thickness a little if it's too soon, or if the button is always pushed down.
The only problem is that now if you hammer on the buttons, the plunger will be whacking the microswitch housing, which could eventually cause problems. It's a tradeoff.