Unnamed SF Rush the Rock to Mame Racer Conversion

Main > Project Announcements

<< < (6/10) > >>

nipsmg:
-- deleted -- --- Reserved for the next tutorial update maybe.

nipsmg:
So, I completed wiring up all the controls last night.

I got in a jamma breakout board and mapped wires to the reverse button, abort button, and view buttons. Got in my 2nd 24v power supply as well. Yesterday I brought the whole board outside on my patio and wired the JAMMA breakout to an old Ipac4.

I bring it into the garage where the cabinet is, bring out the pc, and connect all the wires to the wiring harnesses and the jamma breakout to the jamma connector.. I boot the PC, plug in the Logitech board's USB, and hear the USB "ding" sound.. so far so good.

I open up logitech profiler and it can't detect the controller.

I open device manager: "Windows stopped this device" "Cannot read device descriptor." .... I go to look at the board, and there is liquid pooled up on the top of the primary IC on the circuit board. Turns out, because it was like 97% humidity yesterday, either while working on it or while carrying it into the garage, I dripped sweat onto the main IC. --- I unplugged everything, let it all dry out, cleaned it all up with rubbing alcohol, let it all dry, and turned on the PC again this morning. I connected the USB to the computer and ...... nothing. No ding, no sound, nothing detected, nothing. I think I fried the Logitech board that I ripped out of the wheel.

So now.... I have to find ANOTHER donor wheel. :(

bobbyb13:
Of course this continues to be awesome.

Bummer about that wheel board- sorry to hear.

I really need to do this to one of my 2049s.

nipsmg:
So, I haven't really posted in a while because I've been very busy and troubleshooting some issues.

I built some L2Happ boards for force feebdack based on an old design on the gamoover.net forums...

They worked for a while (with some weird issues where "left" pulls were stronger/worked better than "right" pulls), and then broke down.

Eventually the first transistor overloads and gets so hot it burns off the annodized black covering on the heatsink, and "left" pulls stop working entirely for the FFB.

--- so after a bunch of sunk costs trying to go the "cheaper" way (which ended up being more expensive), I literally JUST ordered a PWM2Happ from Aganyte in the gamoover.net forums. This is a custom board with an arduino that runs one of two FFB solutions on it that emulates a wheel and all of the inputs and the FFB in one board.

Expensive at $130 ish (110 euro shipped to the US), but compeltely worth it to me... considering after sourcing and killing multiple donor logitech wheels, and dealing with the issues that come from having to marry joystick + keyboard support because the buttons go through an IPAC and not the wheel, etc..

So this is going to be on hold a bit, besides maybe setting up a bunch of games until I get the FFB board back in, then I'll have to re-do all the wiring.. (yay).

-----

this project is by no means dead.

bobbyb13:
Well, I certainly appreciate your efforts anyway.

Hard to stay tough while engineering on the fly but you already know it isn't for the cowardly.

Really stoked for you getting this working the way you want it to!

Navigation

 Message Index

Go to full version