A Joust restoration.. this is going to take a while

Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair

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bperkins01:

--- Quote from: Mike A on November 20, 2020, 11:51:08 am ---You do know that is ridiculously good...right?

--- End quote ---

Yes - on this one I agree - its really ridiculously good. :)

two colors to go... ::)

Arroyo:
:notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:

Off. The. Charts.

nexusmtz:
Took a detour to the source images to take in all the detail. Excellent job and process documentation!

bperkins01:
Thanks guys - the hard part is being patient..

bperkins01:

The paint was rock solid in 2 days, I waited 4. Lining up the second color stencil is simple and tricky at the same time. We left the little triangles behind previously to line up the next stencils. They are easy to locate on color 2 stencil . The way I did this was to cut away the back and the front VERY CAREFULLY with the Exacto to reveal just the triangle part. Its easy to cut through all of it – you need to go with the most delicate of touch. When you reveal the ‘sticky side’, use a piece of scrap backing to stick to it until you are ready to hang it..

Backlight and a marker makes it easy to locate the area to cut.

Stick it right to the existing triangle and line it up.

Get the lower one lined up as best you can. Here it will be ok to unstick and restick the stencil to get it as close as possible. I had to stretch it a bit because it never really lays 100% flat. You can get them both very accurate however. Clamp the sides in place near the top – Then roll back the first few inches – trim – stick and spread exactly like the first stencil. You will need to unstick the bottom again to roll the backer off – of course..

Stencil#2 has more intricate detail. When removing the face sheet, follow closely behind with the spreader and stick down the stencil material. I also used my fingers for parts of this – I’ll be re-cleaning it with alcohol right before painting to remove any oils.

Once its off, make sure all the openings are as tight as you can get them with a spreader or your finger – wipe with a lint free rag, alcohol, and clean the areas around the openings. I used compressed air to clean out any little dust and lint right at the seam.
One more IMPORTANT detail: Double check the stencil for any areas that were missed in the ‘weeding’ process. Weeding is where the peel off all of the parts that will get painted. A couple of these little tiny dots were not ‘weeded’. I would have been ‘missing’ the color in the final result. Use a photo of the finished art and check to be sure every little spot has been weeded. You will see the tiny cut line and be able to pluck it right out. I can see this being a big issue on more complicated designs and I get how they can be missed. Everything is really hard to see with white on white and a nearly clear stencil layer.

Its very clear where the yellow layer is going!

Thin wash coat of the base color to seal the stencil and prevent bleeding of the yellow.

I’ve been using my HVLP sprayer and Sherwin Williams oil based paint. The yellow was much thinner than the cream or brown so I only used a small amount of mineral spirits to reduce it a bit. Always strain paint before spraying – one little clot and it spits all over your work. A strainer costs about $.25 – worth it..

Yellow on – it’s much more nerve wracking than the base coat. I could sand and try again on the base and only lose time. These color coats I have to get right SIX TIMES! on the first try. Make sure you cover the alignment triangles again – going to need them one more time.

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