Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair |
A Joust restoration.. this is going to take a while |
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bperkins01:
--- Quote from: Arroyo on August 04, 2020, 09:07:07 am ---Lookin good buddy. Thanks for posting the details, it’ll be valuable for future me. --- End quote --- --- Quote from: J_K_M_A_N on August 04, 2020, 10:46:31 am ---I love this one. Joust is an awesome game. This thing is going to look phenomenal the way you are taking care of it. J_K_M_A_N --- End quote --- Thanks guys - I'll keep them coming ;) |
bperkins01:
Quick update: Sandblasting fresh paint is WAY easier than sand blasting 40 year old paint. It took me longer to drag the air hose and sand blasting stuff outside/inside than to remove that crappy hammered finish paint. Maybe 10 minutes for 4 pieces. Here is the completed door - its still wet so the gloss still has to tone down a bit. I used Rustoleum Satin Black paint. Spray in the base coat smooth as you normally would and wait 30 min or so for it to set up.. To get the texture - you have to spray a second coat - but EVER SO LIGHTLY press the button so the can barely spits out paint. The little spitting gives the exact texture. Holding it just right requires a little practice. I got the info from this video: Bryan Kelly Coin Door Restoration He did it with two different paints. I just used Satin Black and it looks great. All my surface metals that were textured get this going forward. Well worth the rework. |
Mike A:
:applaud: |
bperkins01:
:banghead: 4th times a charm if you include the crappy hammer finish paint. Because no build thread is complete without sharing mistakes.. this cash box door put up a fight. It was the first part I painted with the spatter/texture technique. When you are barely pressing the nozzle and its spitting paint dots, a little puddle of paint builds up just below the nozzle on the rim of the can.. and then a big blob of paint falls on the part. I waited for it to dry and re-sand blasted it.. Then made the same exact mistake.. again.. Re-sand blasted it.. Have to make sure the paint can is never OVER the part.. spray from around the perimeter.. Since everything else was getting some touch-up. These coin slot bezels got a quick hit of paint too.. The primer took some work to get smooth - this is before sanding. I used 80g with the power sander to knock down the high spots, then 120g to smooth it a bit more. Finished with a soft sanding block and 180g by hand to make a perfectly smooth surface. In total it took about 3 hours for both sides. Best to sand in 'layers' to sneak up on the final finish vs. trying to get there all at once. Here are the paint codes that I used. The base color I was able to take from the original (which was under some other paint) and from someone else who did a restore. It should be accurate. First coat went on nice. The HVLP gun worked well. However I've done finish work for years and it still puts up a fight sometimes.. There were some thin spots, but there should have been since its supposed to go on thin and I planned on at least two coats. I'm pretty sure the originals had a very smooth base coat so that the stencils would lay flat for the additional artwork. The second coat.. not so much.. it orange-peeled on me. I'll be hand sanding both sides with 120g to re-smooth it and likely 180g to remove the scratches. I probably needed a little more mineral spirits in the paint. Thought I had the mix right.. The upside is 3 coats of paint. |
Arroyo:
From the pictures all that paint work looks fantastic! Nice work. |
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