A Joust restoration.. this is going to take a while

Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair

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Arroyo:
Good idea over drilling the hole size for a standard dowel :applaud:

For the adhesive, I take it an orbital sand with a high grit paper wouldn’t work?

bperkins01:

--- Quote from: Arroyo on May 21, 2020, 09:32:50 am ---For the adhesive, I take it an orbital sand with a high grit paper wouldn’t work?

--- End quote ---

Gums it up immediately.. I got about 90% of it off the front face. I need to paint strip the bottom face and scrape and then sand.. if I gum up 2-3 sheets vs 10. that works :)

bperkins01:
One more because I can:

I purposely over sized the panels replacing the shattered plywood at the bottoms of the side panels. It's possible to pre-cut them to exact size, glue them in place w/o shifting and have them perfect. But its REALLY HARD to do! If it's off a little - what do you do? cut it off and try again? Add more wood? Its a pain..

One reason to have a track saw (or equivalent) is that you can cut the panel in place - to the exact size. No thinking or planning. In fact - if you are measuring - your working too hard. Here the track is lined up on the front edge. Clamp and cut! No mistakes possible. (ok - none probable)

Perfect straight line - it will not have even the slightest hump in the T-molding.. I cut the front and back sides this way.. When I'm ready - the bottom will be cut to length too.. Almost no thinking involved.

No gaps!!

Here is a different issue: The bottom is the outside face of the cabinet side. Its perfectly flat/flush to take the side art. However - because 40 year old plywood is 3/4" thick and modern plywood is 23/32" - the new stuff is too thin on the INSIDE face. To fix this - I added two pieces of veneer to shim it up to the proper thickness.

Normally I would not care because its inside the cabinet and no one will see it.. Except...The coin door panel meets this area in the front. If I didn't shim it to the same thickness, there would be a gap where the coin door panel meets the sides. I only need to shim the front edge where the panel meets.

Two sheets of veneer, some yellow glue, plastic sheet to prevent gluing the clamping block in place and clamps. When it comes apart it just needs to be sanded to shape and filled a bit. Then I can finish the 3/8" dado's all around and prime everything for reassembly.

Mike A:

--- Quote ---No thinking or planning.
--- End quote ---

That is my specialty.

bperkins01:
Got sidetracked for a while... back at the Joust Cabinet..

Here is something I've never seen on an arcade cabinet restoration forum - So let me show you the old school way... Once the veneer was in place - there was still a hump between the old front edge and the new veneer.

Now your thinking - why not just sand it? You could.. but what happens is you end up rounding it all over and taking away too much material. The end result usually is a concave surface right at the seam.

Above is a #4 hand plane - The shavings are set to thinner than paper. The way it works is you are shaving just the high spot without cutting into the low areas. This is how boards were flattened 100 years ago before all of the modern machinery.. Flattening this transition area took about 60-90 seconds.. A hand tool is much more effective than a power tool in this instance and does a better job..

The original veneer got damaged in the old area.. You would be inclined to fill with Bondo.. I would not.. It has zero strength. Epoxy with wood filler is a much better way to repair this problem. Epoxy is stronger than the wood it is holding together. This area needed to be repaired because it would show where the coin panel meets the inside face.

A little out of sequence - Router with edge guide cutting the dado's.

Williams cabinets were pretty well constructed - here are replacement corner gussets. The original's got destroyed during removal (as they should have)..

Not a huge fan of staples - but this is the appropriate use of them - gussets, glue and staples.

Joust cabinet all glued up and clamped up... Need to cut the T-molding slots and add blocking for the feet. One thing will change from the original: The blocking/feet will protrude from the bottom at least the thickness of the foot - there is no way I'm letting the bottom of this cabinet get destroyed again. Williams originally made is so the cabinet feet recessed - which destroyed the bottom of this in the first place.

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