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Universal Replacement Monitor Chassis for Wells-Gardner 25K7191
MKFan4Life:
Like nipsmg said, you can do it yourself man. I was really afraid over 10 years ago when I did my first one (and to a Hantarex Polo chassis, which people said were a nightmare). I was just careful, did the caps one at a time, and made sure the polarity was correct. Your chassis is one of the best models, and they don't really have as many capacitors as a lot I have seen.
Just buy a good cap kit, and the supplies nipsmg listed, and you can definitely do it. When you come to a problem cap, just chime in here for some help. People here can help you determine if you're using the right value cap, have to perform or rework a repair (for a bad trace, etc.), or just any question you have during the process.
The only other thing to know about really, is how to unhook the wiring and discharge the CRT (which you can learn about on YouTube, too). Except for the 2nd anode (suction cup on CRT), you really just unplug wires and make sure to plug them back up in the exact same way.
Nothing better than that first time you do a successful cap kit and see the great results!
:cheers:
matth2812:
You guys have convinced me to give it a try! Thanks for the encouragement!
The only other problem I have is that I successfully discharged my monitor and removed the chassis, ands every plug came out except for one which would not budge and the wires came out of the plug itself. So mad at myself. Is this is easy fix? (picture attached)
nipsmg:
Oof.. now that sucks.
Easiest way would probably be to try to strip those wires and get a solder tack to those pins, but you really should get a new connector and pins and recrimp them.
princess prin prin:
Those wires are disconnectable on the neckboard but not on the mainboard. The other group of wires is disconnectable on the mainboard but not on the neckboard. They did this so they cannot be mismatched as they are the same connector type. You could use a disconnectable connector of your choice with a 2.5/2.54mm pitch that will not fit the header next to it or even a non-disconnectable one like JST SCN series.
BTW, that's a K7000A chassis (the one made by Zenith). On some of these the polarity of C20 is silk screened incorrectly.
jennifer:
That seems bad, but probably good it happend, judging from that tease pic that board looks tough and is going to need more than just a cap kit...You are going to need parts, headers, connectors, pins, and a crimper (so far) it is all cheap stuff, although the crimpers can be all over the map, I personally would buy moderate quality and would refrain from cheap on the tooling...And a bath wouldn't hurt that board, water, simple green, nylon brush (Toothbrush) and after you are done soldering everything, an alcohol bath to remove Flux residue...Those universal boards you started this thread with are not as bad as most people think, the biggest issue being cap qualities and the difficulty of adjustments, But They do work as advertised. I buy them by the case for television tubes.