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Author Topic: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy  (Read 123586 times)

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javeryh

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #640 on: January 27, 2021, 01:01:28 pm »
Well... it works.  I rebooted this morning and it is behaving as expected.  Absolutely nothing on the screen until Hyperspin menu pops up.  Perfect.  I keep waiting for some sort of error though based on how things have been going until this point. 

This afternoon I'm finishing up the coin door wiring - I don't have clips to hold stuff while soldering so it's a huge pain.  I just read about "tinning" a connection where you add some solder to one wire and then heat that up while holding the other wire in place so I'm going to give that a try.

After I finish wiring I'm going to start messing around with HLSL for some decent scan lines. 

Anyone know why game selection in Hyperspin could be laggy?  The P1 start button instantly responds when I'm in a game but I'm getting a pretty big lag when I select a game from the main menu.

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #641 on: January 28, 2021, 04:17:54 am »

After I finish wiring I'm going to start messing around with HLSL for some decent scan lines. 


Before going crazy with HLSL, try in mame.ini --> effect scanlines

Works well on my VGA crt monitor 640x480

javeryh

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #642 on: January 28, 2021, 09:16:18 am »

After I finish wiring I'm going to start messing around with HLSL for some decent scan lines. 


Before going crazy with HLSL, try in mame.ini --> effect scanlines

Works well on my VGA crt monitor 640x480

So just change effect scanlines from 0 to 1?  That's easy enough to try. 

So here's where I'm at:



Still have a bunch of small things left to do but making progress every day:
- figure out scanlines
- mount smart strip on inside wall
- make some sort of box to cover the main outlet on the inside (would cardboard covered in duct tape work?)
- finish coin door wiring (just need to connect wires to iPAC2)
- make and install coin box
- install glass over monitor (its ordered)
- swap out yellow coin returns for red ones
- add LEDs for coin return buttons
- add Atari serial number plate (anyone know where to get these???)
- make and staple instruction sheet to inside of back door (I want a written record of how to add games, get to windows, etc.)
- (maybe) make instruction cards for each game that pop up when game is paused (long term project)

So not too bad but the last bits are always tough to get through (especially with a playable cabinet!).

 :cheers:

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #643 on: January 28, 2021, 10:12:21 am »
So just change effect scanlines from 0 to 1?  That's easy enough to try. 

Just change

#
# CORE SCREEN OPTIONS
#

effect                    none     
     

to

#
# CORE SCREEN OPTIONS
#

effect                    scanlines


lomoverde

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #644 on: January 28, 2021, 10:20:19 am »

BGFX scanlines are really easy to activate aswell,i think there less resource hungry too.

#
# OSD VIDEO OPTIONS
#
video                     bgfx

#
# BGFX POST-PROCESSING OPTIONS
#
bgfx_path                 bgfx
bgfx_backend              auto
bgfx_debug                0
bgfx_screen_chains        crt-geom   
bgfx_shadow_mask          slot-mask.png
bgfx_lut                 
bgfx_avi_name             auto

or crt-geom-deluxe.I use these on a lcd and of course you dont need to add curvature. Another option tho.

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #645 on: January 28, 2021, 10:23:33 am »
That's pretty slick -  :applaud:
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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #646 on: January 28, 2021, 02:43:51 pm »
Your cab is coming together nicely.   :cheers:


- add Atari serial number plate (anyone know where to get these???)

 :cheers:

IJoeG on KLOV was going to sell these but I didn't see where he actually put out a shingle.  Might be worth sending him a PM.

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/repro-model-number-and-warning-stickers-aluminum-vinyl.479430/#post-4246723

javeryh

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #647 on: January 28, 2021, 04:13:52 pm »
So just change effect scanlines from 0 to 1?  That's easy enough to try. 

Just change

#
# CORE SCREEN OPTIONS
#

effect                    none     
     

to

#
# CORE SCREEN OPTIONS
#

effect                    scanlines


Thanks.  I'll check it out and report back...


BGFX scanlines are really easy to activate aswell,i think there less resource hungry too.

#
# OSD VIDEO OPTIONS
#
video                     bgfx

#
# BGFX POST-PROCESSING OPTIONS
#
bgfx_path                 bgfx
bgfx_backend              auto
bgfx_debug                0
bgfx_screen_chains        crt-geom   
bgfx_shadow_mask          slot-mask.png
bgfx_lut                 
bgfx_avi_name             auto

or crt-geom-deluxe.I use these on a lcd and of course you dont need to add curvature. Another option tho.

Thanks - I will also check this out and report back.

That's pretty slick -  :applaud:

Ha!  Thanks - I think so anyway (no one else in the house seems to care...)  :(

Your cab is coming together nicely.   :cheers:


- add Atari serial number plate (anyone know where to get these???)

 :cheers:

IJoeG on KLOV was going to sell these but I didn't see where he actually put out a shingle.  Might be worth sending him a PM.

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/repro-model-number-and-warning-stickers-aluminum-vinyl.479430/#post-4246723

Thanks - I just posted in his thread over there.  Hopefully he will respond.  His stickers look very cool.

So... I had always thought I could wire 2 buttons to one input on the iPAC2 but this doesn't seem to be the case.  For my coin door I wired both switches on the coin mechs to COIN1 and COIN2 on the iPAC2.  I also added two additional switches that you can press using the coin return.  I wired these directly to COIN1 and COIN2 on the iPAC2 as well.  So each of COIN1 and COIN2 have 2 wires coming out of the screw terminal.  All 4 buttons share GROUND.  The switches in the mechs work fine but the switches behind the coin returns do not work at all.  Is this because they are sharing GROUND?  Should I just wire these to some unused screw terminals and change the behavior in MAME?  Any idea why this isn't working?

Thanks.   :cheers:

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #648 on: January 28, 2021, 05:30:00 pm »
So... I had always thought I could wire 2 buttons to one input on the iPAC2 but this doesn't seem to be the case.  For my coin door I wired both switches on the coin mechs to COIN1 and COIN2 on the iPAC2.  I also added two additional switches that you can press using the coin return.  I wired these directly to COIN1 and COIN2 on the iPAC2 as well.  So each of COIN1 and COIN2 have 2 wires coming out of the screw terminal.  All 4 buttons share GROUND.  The switches in the mechs work fine but the switches behind the coin returns do not work at all.  Is this because they are sharing GROUND?  Should I just wire these to some unused screw terminals and change the behavior in MAME?  Any idea why this isn't working?
You can wire an unlimited number of shared-ground switches in parallel to IPac inputs.

                    _____/____
                    |                 |
Ground ____|____/____|____Coin 1

As long as Ground and Coin1 are connected to the microswitch COM and NO tabs, it will work.

If you had bought a multimeter last month, you could easily troubleshoot this problem now. [/KiddingOnTheSquare]   :P   >:D


Scott

javeryh

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #649 on: January 28, 2021, 06:03:15 pm »
So... I had always thought I could wire 2 buttons to one input on the iPAC2 but this doesn't seem to be the case.  For my coin door I wired both switches on the coin mechs to COIN1 and COIN2 on the iPAC2.  I also added two additional switches that you can press using the coin return.  I wired these directly to COIN1 and COIN2 on the iPAC2 as well.  So each of COIN1 and COIN2 have 2 wires coming out of the screw terminal.  All 4 buttons share GROUND.  The switches in the mechs work fine but the switches behind the coin returns do not work at all.  Is this because they are sharing GROUND?  Should I just wire these to some unused screw terminals and change the behavior in MAME?  Any idea why this isn't working?
You can wire an unlimited number of shared-ground switches in parallel to IPac inputs.

                    _____/____
                    |                 |
Ground ____|____/____|____Coin 1

As long as Ground and Coin1 are connected to the microswitch COM and NO tabs, it will work.

If you had bought a multimeter last month, you could easily troubleshoot this problem now. [/KiddingOnTheSquare]   :P   >:D


Scott

Thanks.  This is what I thought but it makes no sense that 2 buttons work and 2 do not.  This is what I did:

NO on P1 Coin Mech switch to COIN1 on iPAC2
NO on P1 Coin Return switch to COIN1 on iPAC2

NO on P1 Coin Mech switch to COIN2 on iPAC2
NO on P1 Coin Return switch to COIN2 on iPAC2

GND on P2 Coin Mech switch to GND on P2 Coin Return switch to GND on P1 Coin Mech switch to GND on P1 Coin Return switch to GND on Button 3 on CP to GND, etc. all the way to GND on iPAC2.

Both Coin Mech switches work but the switches I installed behind the Coin Returns do not.  I even tried another switch thinking that maybe I had a bad one (two, actually) and it didn't work either.  All the of wiring seems correct.  Makes no sense!

Yeah... it's about time I sprung for a multimeter - would it be able to detect a signal that faint?

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #650 on: January 28, 2021, 07:28:53 pm »
That video looks sweet Javery, you must be pumped to see that thing scrolling through those marquees.

Regarding the scanlines, the two I mentioned HLSL & GLSL are highly useful for LCD’s to mimic the geometry, scan lines, phosphor bloom, and curvature of an original CRT.  Since you actually have a CRT, you probably just need the scan lines as your CRT has a higher resolution than a standard 240p arcade monitor.  Both of the solutions above would work and BGFX is the engine for HLSL.  You can also checkout GLSL as well and just focus on the scanlines for any of the above solutions.  I have tutorials to post if interested.

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #651 on: January 28, 2021, 07:43:51 pm »
All the of wiring seems correct.  Makes no sense!
Agreed.  This is where the meter will help you figure out what is actually happening.

If you aren't sure which meter to get, we'll help you find one with the features you want/need.
- Digital meter instead of analog.  There are some tests where you need an analog meter, but they are few and far between.
- Auto-ranging.
- Diode check.

Yeah... it's about time I sprung for a multimeter - would it be able to detect a signal that faint?
Yes.

You're not testing for a signal, you're testing for a path from ground to the input port.
- When the switch is not pressed, there is no path for the electrons to flow so the voltage (think water pressure) on the input port is at a logic high.
- When the switch is pressed, there is a path for the electrons to flow so the voltage on the input port is pulled to a logic low. (think someone flushes the toilet while you're taking a shower and the lower cold water pressure causes the shower to get really hot)

How to test the switches and wiring:
- Remove power so you don't fry the meter.

- Set meter to continuity/ohms.

- Touch the red lead to the black lead.  The meter should indicate continuity (beep)/short. (<2 ohms)

- Connect the black lead to your ground daisy-chain and the red lead to the IPac input you want to test.

- When no button connected to the red lead IPac input is pressed, the meter should indicate no continuity (no beep)/open.
-- If it shows continuity, you might be on the NC terminal instead of the NO or there might be a short to ground somewhere on the IPac input line.

- When a button connected to the red lead IPac input is pressed, the meter should indicate continuity (beep)/short. (<2 ohms)
-- You should get continuity when you press the coin mech switch (currently working) and you should get continuity when you press the switch behind the coin return. (currently not working)
-- You can also test the switch by putting the meter leads on COM and NC.  There should be continuity when the switch is not pressed and no continuity when the switch is pressed.  This should confirm that the microswitch nub is being pushed far enough to move the pole from the NC contact to the NO contact.


Scott

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #652 on: January 28, 2021, 11:48:30 pm »
- When a button connected to the red lead IPac input is pressed, the meter should indicate continuity (beep)/short. (<2 ohms)

Make sure you get a multimeter that goes "BEEP" when you test continuity. It saves you a lot of time if checking a lot of connections.

My $10 hardware special DMM doesn't do that, that alone is worth paying $50 for.

Also if you can get one that does milliamps (mA), and capacitance function would be nice too.
Check out my completed projects!


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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #653 on: January 29, 2021, 06:50:14 am »
Looking really nice!

My last multimeter was about £9 and replaced an old analogue one.  It beeps for a continuity test, which I'd agree is absolutely vital.  The thought of trying to troubleshoot wiring without it...! :(

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #654 on: January 29, 2021, 09:53:28 am »
That video looks sweet Javery, you must be pumped to see that thing scrolling through those marquees.

Regarding the scanlines, the two I mentioned HLSL & GLSL are highly useful for LCD’s to mimic the geometry, scan lines, phosphor bloom, and curvature of an original CRT.  Since you actually have a CRT, you probably just need the scan lines as your CRT has a higher resolution than a standard 240p arcade monitor.  Both of the solutions above would work and BGFX is the engine for HLSL.  You can also checkout GLSL as well and just focus on the scanlines for any of the above solutions.  I have tutorials to post if interested.

I don't think I'll ever get tired of scrolling through the marquees.  I've even let it dictate the games on the cabinet - if I can't find good marquee art it's out LOL.  The one game that is currently breaking that rule is Teeter Totter.  It's a stupid spinner game that I had never even played before setting this up but it is stupidly addictive for some reason.  Game looks like it must have been made 5 minutes after video games were invented!  I wish someone would make a sweet marquee for it.

I would LOVE for you to post your tutorials on getting the scanlines just right.  I tried enabling them yesterday and the games looked much better than without them but it wasn't perfect.  I'm sure there is some combo of settings that gets it very close though and I'd love a walkthrough.   :cheers:

All the of wiring seems correct.  Makes no sense!
Agreed.  This is where the meter will help you figure out what is actually happening.

If you aren't sure which meter to get, we'll help you find one with the features you want/need.
- Digital meter instead of analog.  There are some tests where you need an analog meter, but they are few and far between.
- Auto-ranging.
- Diode check.

Yeah... it's about time I sprung for a multimeter - would it be able to detect a signal that faint?
Yes.

You're not testing for a signal, you're testing for a path from ground to the input port.
- When the switch is not pressed, there is no path for the electrons to flow so the voltage (think water pressure) on the input port is at a logic high.
- When the switch is pressed, there is a path for the electrons to flow so the voltage on the input port is pulled to a logic low. (think someone flushes the toilet while you're taking a shower and the lower cold water pressure causes the shower to get really hot)

How to test the switches and wiring:
- Remove power so you don't fry the meter.

- Set meter to continuity/ohms.

- Touch the red lead to the black lead.  The meter should indicate continuity (beep)/short. (<2 ohms)

- Connect the black lead to your ground daisy-chain and the red lead to the IPac input you want to test.

- When no button connected to the red lead IPac input is pressed, the meter should indicate no continuity (no beep)/open.
-- If it shows continuity, you might be on the NC terminal instead of the NO or there might be a short to ground somewhere on the IPac input line.

- When a button connected to the red lead IPac input is pressed, the meter should indicate continuity (beep)/short. (<2 ohms)
-- You should get continuity when you press the coin mech switch (currently working) and you should get continuity when you press the switch behind the coin return. (currently not working)
-- You can also test the switch by putting the meter leads on COM and NC.  There should be continuity when the switch is not pressed and no continuity when the switch is pressed.  This should confirm that the microswitch nub is being pushed far enough to move the pole from the NC contact to the NO contact.

OK I'm sold.  I just need to figure out which one to buy.  I don't want to break the bank - just want something that will do the job.  The only thing I can think of that could be "bad" is the molex connector I soldered wires to in order to be able to take out the CP.  Maybe something is going on there that is shorting out the signal.  If you look at this pic you can see that I have connected 1/2 of the molex connector:



This was in my computer parts bin so I cut it in half because one side was male and the other side was female so I thought I could use it.  There was another 2 wires coming out of it that had another connection (to connect to pins on a motherboard for power, I think) but I just snipped them.  Maybe that's where the signal is getting lost?  Anyway, I ordered a set of male/female quick disconnects that should arrive tonight.  I'll cut out the molex connector and just connect all 5 wires with the quick disconnects.  If that doesn't work... I don't even know.

Make sure you get a multimeter that goes "BEEP" when you test continuity. It saves you a lot of time if checking a lot of connections.

I will make sure!  I need this to be simple for my simple brain to comprehend.  One of my goals with this project was to push myself and learn new stuff and so far I think I'm getting there.

Looking really nice!

My last multimeter was about £9 and replaced an old analogue one.  It beeps for a continuity test, which I'd agree is absolutely vital.  The thought of trying to troubleshoot wiring without it...! :(

Thanks!  This is all new to me but hopefully I'll be able to use a lot of what I'm learning on the next cabinet... assuming I survive after my wife finds out.   ;D

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #655 on: January 29, 2021, 11:35:17 am »
OK... something is DEFINITELY wrong with my coin door wiring.  I just tried going into Windows and when I went to Task Manager and tried running a new task by typing "explorer" into the box it just kept typing 56565656565656565656565656565 over and over until I disconnected the coin door.  All of the switches are wired to NO and none of them were pressed so I don't know what is happening.

In other news, the bgfx setting looks pretty good so far.

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #656 on: January 29, 2021, 12:37:07 pm »
its wired wrong..  5 and 6 are coin1 and coin2 when you map them to the standard mame keyboard
you you are inserting coins at lightning speed
the wires for the switches are grounded someplace.
« Last Edit: January 29, 2021, 12:39:41 pm by bperkins01 »
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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #657 on: January 29, 2021, 01:10:48 pm »
its wired wrong..  5 and 6 are coin1 and coin2 when you map them to the standard mame keyboard
you you are inserting coins at lightning speed
the wires for the switches are grounded someplace.

yeah, I knew 5 and 6 were P1 and P2 coin... but when I'm in MAME no coins were being added unless the keypresses were happening too fast.  Maybe I screwed up my ground when I added the coin switches?  I went to the "last" button on the CP (the one that only had one ground connection because of the daisy chain) and added a second ground wire to it to run to the 4 coin switches (to continue the ground chain).  I'm pretty sure that's correct because if I had a 4th "action button" on the CP, the daisy chain would have continued to there - continuing to the coin door switches should work just fine.

Could the issue be that I'm using cherry switches for the coin door and Gold Leaf buttons from Ultimarc as the CP buttons?  Those do not care which pin you use for ground and what you use to connect to the iPAC but the cherry switches are specific.  Maybe the ground connection gets lost there?

 :dunno

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #658 on: January 29, 2021, 01:15:39 pm »
1 common ground for all of the switches is fine..  if you disconnect the coin door and it stops..  then you have a wire that is supposed to be connected to the ipac somehow shorting to ground..  the switches (unless they are broken) have nothing to do with it.
unless...
On the switches - there are 3 tabs

You could have the wires connected to the 'normally closed' tabs vs. the 'normally open' ones
maybe its that?
My Arcade Cabinet Build and other projects here:
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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #659 on: January 29, 2021, 01:39:04 pm »
1 common ground for all of the switches is fine..  if you disconnect the coin door and it stops..  then you have a wire that is supposed to be connected to the ipac somehow shorting to ground..  the switches (unless they are broken) have nothing to do with it.
unless...
On the switches - there are 3 tabs

You could have the wires connected to the 'normally closed' tabs vs. the 'normally open' ones
maybe its that?

I disconnected the coin door and it stopped.  So something is definitely happening there.  I do not think it is the switches because yesterday both coin mechs functioned properly and both switches I installed behind the coin return did not.  I then tested a couple more loose switches and none worked.  I think it's statistically unlikely that all of my cherry switches are malfunctioning.  I also tried connecting to NC like you suggested and nothing.

I think it has to be my rigged up Molex connection behaving weirdly.  I am expecting male/female quick disconnects to arrive tonight from Amazon so tomorrow I will be able to wire directly to each switch and test them out one by one.  I'm actually out of wire and quick disconnects or I'd just do it now.  I was down to green solid core wiring in my supply bin so now I can't even tell the wires apart... of course!   :cheers:

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #660 on: January 29, 2021, 05:14:01 pm »
Finding the shorts in your switches will be easy once you have a multimeter that goes "BEEP"!

Make sure you don't get a machine that goes "BING" - those are very expensive and usually only used in hospitals to impress administrators!

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javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #661 on: January 29, 2021, 05:30:46 pm »
Finding the shorts in your switches will be easy once you have a multimeter that goes "BEEP"!
Make sure you don't get a machine that goes "BING" - those are very expensive and usually only used in hospitals to impress administrators

 ;D

Could I be having a MAME/RocketLauncher issue that would somehow make these buttons not work properly?  When I go into the MAME settings (Tab -> Input (general) -> Other Controls) both Coin 1 and Coin2 are greyed out.  None of the other controls are like this.




I just rewired everything very carefully and now none of the 4 switches are working.  Maybe something got messed up on the software side?  I've never had an issue with wiring buttons like this before.

 :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

EDIT: I think there’s a break in the ground wire.  I unplugged everything and just tested each wire from the iPac plus ground from the CP with a spare switch and it worked on all 4 wires.  So something has to be wrong on the coin door wiring side of things.  More testing...
« Last Edit: January 29, 2021, 05:46:15 pm by javeryh »

javeryh

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javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #662 on: January 29, 2021, 05:55:47 pm »
OK what is going on????



I’m tweaking the ground wire and the only switch that is connected is the coin mech switch that came with the coin door.  This should not be able to be activated unless the switch is pressed but it just keeps adding quarters without touching it.

EDIT: holy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- I’m so stupid. The bottom switches have ground and NO reversed.  Of course I learned this AFTER cutting all the wiring out and testing each one using the wires from the iPAC.  So now I need to rewire it again but I actually think it will work.  2 days of this nonsense LOL.
« Last Edit: January 29, 2021, 06:40:17 pm by javeryh »

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #663 on: January 29, 2021, 09:00:04 pm »
so  - if you had a meter you would have saved a day or two of figuring out a wiring issue?  :)
For all the great work you have done - add a meter to your toolkit.
Great looking cab...
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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #664 on: January 29, 2021, 11:38:02 pm »
OK I'm sold.  I just need to figure out which one to buy.  I don't want to break the bank - just want something that will do the job.
Consider the Fluke 106.  Review here.
- Best mix of features, reliability, and price IMHO.

If you want a backlit display (I wish mine had one) and a magnetic hanger strap, step up to the Fluke 107.  Review here.

The Fluke 101 is less expensive than the 106 and 107, but it doesn't allow you to measure current.   :(

The only other downside to the Fluke 101/106/107 is that they don't have a "kickstand".

Another option is the Klein MM400.  Review here.
- One feature that you may find annoying is that unlike the Fluke meters that have separate switch settings for VDC and VAC, the Klein has only one switch setting for VAC/VDC.  It defaults to VAC so every time you turn the knob to VAC/VDC to measure DC voltage, you have to remember to press the select button.   :banghead:

There are some other options mentioned here, but one of the four meters mentioned above with a lead accessory kit like this one, a carry case (to protect the meter and organize/store spare leads), and/or a magnetic hanger strap should cover pretty much everything.


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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #665 on: January 30, 2021, 01:30:44 pm »
so  - if you had a meter you would have saved a day or two of figuring out a wiring issue?  :)
For all the great work you have done - add a meter to your toolkit.
Great looking cab...

Yup seems like that would be the case but never underestimate the depths of my stupidity.  I got so frustrated so I ended up cutting out all of the coin door wiring because I was convinced something had to be wrong even though I couldn't see it... aaaaaand I'm out of wire.  So I'm off to Home Depot knowing full well they don't even sell the correct gauge wire but they do sell some "bell wire" which is 2 strands of red and white 20 gauge wire wrapped together so I'll get some of that.  I do not feel like waiting another 2 days for Amazon to deliver. 

If I had just checked the switches before tearing it all apart I'd be done! This is right in line with my every day life though - if there is a hard way to do something I will definitely find it.

Consider the Fluke 106.  Review here.
- Best mix of features, reliability, and price IMHO.

If you want a backlit display (I wish mine had one) and a magnetic hanger strap, step up to the Fluke 107.  Review here.

The Fluke 101 is less expensive than the 106 and 107, but it doesn't allow you to measure current.   :(

The only other downside to the Fluke 101/106/107 is that they don't have a "kickstand".

Another option is the Klein MM400.  Review here.
- One feature that you may find annoying is that unlike the Fluke meters that have separate switch settings for VDC and VAC, the Klein has only one switch setting for VAC/VDC.  It defaults to VAC so every time you turn the knob to VAC/VDC to measure DC voltage, you have to remember to press the select button.   :banghead:

There are some other options mentioned here, but one of the four meters mentioned above with a lead accessory kit like this one, a carry case (to protect the meter and organize/store spare leads), and/or a magnetic hanger strap should cover pretty much everything.

Thanks! I will start reading and look at these models.  I have another project in mind after this one that will involve some more wiring so at some point I'm going to have to bite the bullet...

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #666 on: January 30, 2021, 02:42:56 pm »


Incredible.

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #667 on: January 30, 2021, 08:50:04 pm »
Yay!  Now get a meter .

Seriously though, way to persevere, the hard way.  One more box checked, off to the next one.

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #668 on: January 31, 2021, 01:20:21 pm »
Yay!  Now get a meter .

Seriously though, way to persevere, the hard way.  One more box checked, off to the next one.

Thanks bud.  Today I'll be putting the SmartStrip in the cabinet so the back door can be closed and also making the coin box.  Just waiting on the monitor glass now and construction will be finished.

I do have some software nonsense going on right now (of course):
  • Games suddenly have audio glitches.  The audio glitches were definitely not present when I was testing things at my desk with my 1080p LCD so maybe it has something to do with the CRT?  Or maybe because of enabling the bgfx settings?
  • This leads into the next issue - the CRT is not displaying things at "full screen" and I cannot fix this because the settings board where you can move the picture around, increase horizontal and vertical lengths, etc. is non-responsive.  I am reasonably certain I damaged it when taking apart the monitor.  There was a green LED indicator on the board that no longer comes on and pressing the buttons does not make the OSD pop up.  Honestly, there is a 75% chance I am going to replace the monitor with a LCD if I can find a 4:3 the right size.  This CRT was not worth the trouble - I still need to emulate scanlines because the resolution (1024x768) is too high and with all the stuff I've seen others do with scanlines and rounding the corners, mimicking the CRT "bubble", etc. is plenty good enough for me for a MAME project.
  • I'm only getting audio out of the left speaker.  It's not a huge deal because it still sounds OK but obviously I'd like to get the right speaker working.  When I tore apart the PC speakers, the pins came off completely on one side so I'm guessing it is related?  I plugged it all back in but maybe the connection isn't being made.

Overall I'm quite pleased with the cabinet so far - it looks great in person - but I'd really like to sort these things out so it works how I originally envisioned it.

 :cheers:
« Last Edit: January 31, 2021, 02:46:19 pm by javeryh »

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #669 on: January 31, 2021, 11:05:47 pm »
Honestly, there is a 75% chance I am going to replace the monitor with a LCD if I can find a 4:3 the right size.  This CRT was not worth the trouble

Can you find a standard component-input TV locally?

Your core2duo E8500 + cheap low-profile ATI/AMD video card + CRT_emulator driver + GreenAntz RGB/VGA to component transcoder = authentic 15khz CRT monitor for your cab

It would be easy to mount in your cab (easier than your current monitor was anyway). Your CPU would handle the games better, you could use Groovymame if you want to (you want!) in real arcade modes and match refresh rates with no (or almost no) CPU performance hit, no more need for fake scanlines, artifacts, blurring, etc.

On the other hand, you might be able to fix the settings board on your VGA monitor, maybe is just a loose connection or something simple like that?
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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #670 on: February 01, 2021, 09:11:53 am »
Honestly, there is a 75% chance I am going to replace the monitor with a LCD if I can find a 4:3 the right size.  This CRT was not worth the trouble

Can you find a standard component-input TV locally?

Your core2duo E8500 + cheap low-profile ATI/AMD video card + CRT_emulator driver + GreenAntz RGB/VGA to component transcoder = authentic 15khz CRT monitor for your cab

It would be easy to mount in your cab (easier than your current monitor was anyway). Your CPU would handle the games better, you could use Groovymame if you want to (you want!) in real arcade modes and match refresh rates with no (or almost no) CPU performance hit, no more need for fake scanlines, artifacts, blurring, etc.

On the other hand, you might be able to fix the settings board on your VGA monitor, maybe is just a loose connection or something simple like that?

I could probably find a TV.  Not sure about the size though - 17" wasn't too popular.  13", 19" and 20" were common.  13" would be too small and 19" would be too big.  Can't hurt to look though.  How would I turn it on?  Most TVs don't automatically wake like a monitor when it senses the signal.

I tried fixing the connection the last time I had the monitor out of the cab but couldn't actually figure out what was going on.  It is connected via 4 pins on the CRT's PCB and the connection seemed secure but it's obviously not getting any power.  There was no break in the wires anywhere that I could see on either end. 

 :dunno

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #671 on: February 01, 2021, 10:12:15 am »
I could probably find a TV.  Not sure about the size though - 17" wasn't too popular.  13", 19" and 20" were common.  13" would be too small and 19" would be too big.  Can't hurt to look though.  How would I turn it on?  Most TVs don't automatically wake like a monitor when it senses the signal.

Forgot yours was as small as 17" - less common size for TVs. But yeah if you can find it.

I'm using 20-21" cheap Chinese CRT TVs and component-modding them for cabs. There are smaller versions like 17" around here. A 17" might not have external component inputs, but often the jungle chip will have pins/inputs anyway. If so, probably all you need a a few capacitors and resistors and you're good to go.

I know a couple of tricks for getting TVs to come on once power is applied. Usually there are service menu options if you have an original remote and dig around, and the trick is googling out how to enter the hidden "service menu". Another trick is to simulate a button-press on power-up with a capacitor (for TVs that demand a power-button press to start). A similar trick can even be used to simulate a remote power button, but you might need a schematic or datasheet for that.

Quote
I tried fixing the connection the last time I had the monitor out of the cab but couldn't actually figure out what was going on.  It is connected via 4 pins on the CRT's PCB and the connection seemed secure but it's obviously not getting any power.  There was no break in the wires anywhere that I could see on either end. 

 :dunno

Diagnosing stuff like this will be easier with a multimeter. With that you can check for connectivity and voltages to narrow down the issue. Having said that, it often comes down to some simple oversight, so visually check and check again cables (in right way around?) and connectivity and if anything looks wrong.
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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #672 on: February 01, 2021, 10:20:41 am »
How about a 13" or 14" arcade monitor?  That size was common in the cabaret cabinets.  I have an asteroids with that size in, and a robotron mini.  You think it'll be too small, but personally I think it looks great.  Will be much easier to find a monitor of that size than a 17" too.  And like said before, waaay easier to mount!

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« Reply #673 on: February 11, 2021, 07:35:11 am »
Glass arrived yesterday and I finally got around to installing it.  I had to cut a bezel out of black matte board to go around the monitor, which was a pain to get just right.  Came out pretty nice though.  You really only see/notice the lit part of the screen - the surrounding area is pretty dark.



Only thing left to do is fix the right speaker (I ordered a $10 amp instead of trying to fix the pcb I mangled) and figure out how to catch coins on the inside but it is otherwise finished.

I guess I’m also going to tweak the game list eventually.  It’s been up and running for a few weeks and I’ve been playing it but there are some games that I doubt I’ll ever really play and I won’t miss them if they aren’t there.  I’m sure I’m also missing a bunch that I don’t know about or just overlooked.  I need to start looking at “hidden gem” lists and stuff like that...

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #674 on: February 11, 2021, 08:02:13 am »
Very nice looking machine - well executed   :applaud:
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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #675 on: February 11, 2021, 08:21:39 am »
Looks great Javery, very professional.  I think you will end up enjoying this one a lot for many years.  :applaud:

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #676 on: February 11, 2021, 10:01:29 am »
Very nice looking machine - well executed   :applaud:

Looks great Javery, very professional.  I think you will end up enjoying this one a lot for many years.  :applaud:

Thanks guys.  I am happy enough to just get to 75% of the bar that the two of you have set around here with your cabs.  :notworthy:

Now what?  I need another project or I'm going to go crazy and I can't get into the garage for a couple of months most likely due to the 20 degree weather and 2ft. of snow.  I'll probably try and shoot a video walkthrough on my phone as well as finish up the odds and ends but motivation is low... maybe I'll start preliminary research on the next cab, which honestly might be "bperkins inspired".  I don't actually own a standard 2P cabinet.... hmm...

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #677 on: February 11, 2021, 11:50:21 am »
That looks amazing.After following this thread closely,it seems even for someone as experienced as you,building a new cab can be a real adventure. :applaud:

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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #678 on: February 11, 2021, 12:56:57 pm »
Cab looks very cool javeryh well done  :applaud:

I may need to mine your thread for ideas later :D
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Re: javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
« Reply #679 on: February 11, 2021, 01:48:22 pm »
Well done mate :)  Looks really good.  Can't wait for the video!   :cheers: