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javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
javeryh:
--- Quote from: bperkins01 on January 29, 2021, 09:00:04 pm ---so - if you had a meter you would have saved a day or two of figuring out a wiring issue? :)
For all the great work you have done - add a meter to your toolkit.
Great looking cab...
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Yup seems like that would be the case but never underestimate the depths of my stupidity. I got so frustrated so I ended up cutting out all of the coin door wiring because I was convinced something had to be wrong even though I couldn't see it... aaaaaand I'm out of wire. So I'm off to Home Depot knowing full well they don't even sell the correct gauge wire but they do sell some "bell wire" which is 2 strands of red and white 20 gauge wire wrapped together so I'll get some of that. I do not feel like waiting another 2 days for Amazon to deliver.
If I had just checked the switches before tearing it all apart I'd be done! This is right in line with my every day life though - if there is a hard way to do something I will definitely find it.
--- Quote from: PL1 on January 29, 2021, 11:38:02 pm ---Consider the Fluke 106. Review here.
- Best mix of features, reliability, and price IMHO.
If you want a backlit display (I wish mine had one) and a magnetic hanger strap, step up to the Fluke 107. Review here.
The Fluke 101 is less expensive than the 106 and 107, but it doesn't allow you to measure current. :(
The only other downside to the Fluke 101/106/107 is that they don't have a "kickstand".
Another option is the Klein MM400. Review here.
- One feature that you may find annoying is that unlike the Fluke meters that have separate switch settings for VDC and VAC, the Klein has only one switch setting for VAC/VDC. It defaults to VAC so every time you turn the knob to VAC/VDC to measure DC voltage, you have to remember to press the select button. :banghead:
There are some other options mentioned here, but one of the four meters mentioned above with a lead accessory kit like this one, a carry case (to protect the meter and organize/store spare leads), and/or a magnetic hanger strap should cover pretty much everything.
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Thanks! I will start reading and look at these models. I have another project in mind after this one that will involve some more wiring so at some point I'm going to have to bite the bullet...
javeryh:
Incredible.
Arroyo:
Yay! Now get a meter .
Seriously though, way to persevere, the hard way. One more box checked, off to the next one.
javeryh:
--- Quote from: Arroyo on January 30, 2021, 08:50:04 pm ---Yay! Now get a meter .
Seriously though, way to persevere, the hard way. One more box checked, off to the next one.
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Thanks bud. Today I'll be putting the SmartStrip in the cabinet so the back door can be closed and also making the coin box. Just waiting on the monitor glass now and construction will be finished.
I do have some software nonsense going on right now (of course):
* Games suddenly have audio glitches. The audio glitches were definitely not present when I was testing things at my desk with my 1080p LCD so maybe it has something to do with the CRT? Or maybe because of enabling the bgfx settings?
* This leads into the next issue - the CRT is not displaying things at "full screen" and I cannot fix this because the settings board where you can move the picture around, increase horizontal and vertical lengths, etc. is non-responsive. I am reasonably certain I damaged it when taking apart the monitor. There was a green LED indicator on the board that no longer comes on and pressing the buttons does not make the OSD pop up. Honestly, there is a 75% chance I am going to replace the monitor with a LCD if I can find a 4:3 the right size. This CRT was not worth the trouble - I still need to emulate scanlines because the resolution (1024x768) is too high and with all the stuff I've seen others do with scanlines and rounding the corners, mimicking the CRT "bubble", etc. is plenty good enough for me for a MAME project.
* I'm only getting audio out of the left speaker. It's not a huge deal because it still sounds OK but obviously I'd like to get the right speaker working. When I tore apart the PC speakers, the pins came off completely on one side so I'm guessing it is related? I plugged it all back in but maybe the connection isn't being made.
Overall I'm quite pleased with the cabinet so far - it looks great in person - but I'd really like to sort these things out so it works how I originally envisioned it.
:cheers:
Zebidee:
--- Quote from: javeryh on January 31, 2021, 01:20:21 pm ---Honestly, there is a 75% chance I am going to replace the monitor with a LCD if I can find a 4:3 the right size. This CRT was not worth the trouble
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Can you find a standard component-input TV locally?
Your core2duo E8500 + cheap low-profile ATI/AMD video card + CRT_emulator driver + GreenAntz RGB/VGA to component transcoder = authentic 15khz CRT monitor for your cab
It would be easy to mount in your cab (easier than your current monitor was anyway). Your CPU would handle the games better, you could use Groovymame if you want to (you want!) in real arcade modes and match refresh rates with no (or almost no) CPU performance hit, no more need for fake scanlines, artifacts, blurring, etc.
On the other hand, you might be able to fix the settings board on your VGA monitor, maybe is just a loose connection or something simple like that?