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javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy
wp34:
That CP looks fantastic javeryh! The white really pops.
--- Quote from: javeryh on December 10, 2020, 07:07:32 pm ---I'm sure there is more I'm not thinking of but this is basically the punch list. Anyone have any recommendations for a decent glass shop that will cut to a custom size and not charge an arm and a leg?
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I used onedayglass.com for my Tron cabinet. It wasn't cheap but I'm really happy with the results.
javeryh:
--- Quote from: leapinlew on December 10, 2020, 11:46:31 pm ---No suggestions for online glass since I have always used a local shop. I’m curious what your local shop vs online shop research pulls up.
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I'll let you know. I vaguely remember ordering some glass from eBay that was really cheap but I can't remember where and it's so long ago that it's not showing up in my order history.
--- Quote from: wp34 on December 11, 2020, 01:47:14 pm ---That CP looks fantastic javeryh! The white really pops.
I used onedayglass.com for my Tron cabinet. It wasn't cheap but I'm really happy with the results.
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Thanks! I'll check that place out once I have good measurements.
I've been installing the joystick and wiring stuff while I watch football today. Taking me forever because I needed to make sure the joystick was dead center. I'm down to just button/joystick wiring but I also need to figure out how to wire the LEDs in the volcano buttons. Anyone know if I can pull enough power from the iPac2 and also where run the wires?
javeryh:
Some progress... I only have solid wire laying around for this, which is a little annoying but I guess as long as the connection is made it doesn’t matter. Took me a while to get the joystick just right too. Now I need to figure out where to pull 5V from for the LEDs in the P1 and P2 start buttons. The PCB that the servo is wired to can accommodate 2 of them so maybe I can power the LEDs off off that? Hmm... need to do some research.
I think I'm going to run 2 separate ground daisy chains - the joystick and buttons are on opposite sides of the iPAC2 and it's easier to not have wires crossing all over the place. If I can get this fully wired tomorrow I should have a playable cabinet by the end of the week.
One thing that's been bugging me is how I'm going to get the control panel attached to the cabinet without moving. I do not want to drill through the top but there's less room underneath than I had initially thought - I was going to add some extra cocktail cabinet spring clips on the inside but I'm not sure there is enough room. Need to think on this some more.
javeryh:
So anyone have any idea how to wire the volcano buttons? I got them from Arcade Shop.
I am pretty sure the three thin prongs are NC, NO and GRD from left to right so I would connect NO and GRD like any other push button switch.
I am also pretty sure two flat prongs attached to the rivets are for the LED but I have no idea how to wire this up. Arcade Shop says that “Button includes a 6.8k resistor” and I do not know what that means. In my research other similar buttons (but not exact) require 2V to power and people say that if you just hook it up to 5V source you will fry the LED. If that is the case, what do I need to step down the voltage (assuming I can draw 5V from the iPAC2?
Surely someone around here has used one of these buttons before...
EDIT: here's a pic from the Arcade Shop site:
The stamp on it says 5A250V if that helps.
PL1:
--- Quote from: javeryh on December 13, 2020, 08:05:06 pm ---I am also pretty sure two flat prongs attached to the rivets are for the LED but I have no idea how to wire this up. Arcade Shop says that “Button includes a 6.8k resistor” and I do not know what that means. In my research other similar buttons (but not exact) require 2V to power and people say that if you just hook it up to 5V source you will fry the LED. If that is the case, what do I need to step down the voltage (assuming I can draw 5V from the iPAC2?
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What you need is a 220 Ohm (or 160 Ohm), 1/4 Watt (or 1/8 or 1/2 Watt -- smaller wattage ==> thinner leads) current limiting resistor between 5v and the LED+ terminal.
If you connect LED- to ground, it will be always-on.
If you connect LED- to an LED controller and run a program like LEDBlinky, it will blink.
The only thing I'm not certain about is if the LED+ and LED- are swapped in this diagram.
- If they are, LMK and I'll update the diagram accordingly.
- You can test this using the diode check function on your multimeter. When the polarity is correct, the LED will light dimly.
Scott