javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy

[Laythe]

Seems like this should only take an afternoon but that doesn’t count all the time spent staring at it and not moving...

Haha, yeah, I think that time is essential.  I do a lot of it too.   

Sometimes, that's when I catch something I was about to do that would be stupid.  I screw up a lot more stuff if I skip that "staring at it" step.

[Arroyo]

I know THAT feeling.

[mountain]

Came back because i need to build something, so happy to see an old friend still at it. Looks great! 

[leapinlew]

Mountain!

Dude, long time! Someone recently sold one of your jukebox’s here.

Sites changed quite a bit. Definitely not as active. I put the final touches on my arcade and have been enjoying playing and not as much building.

As much as i look forward to what you might build, what I really want to know is what have you been building since 2015?

[javeryh]

Came back because i need to build something, so happy to see an old friend still at it. Looks great! 

Hey buddy - how have you been?  Glad to see you are back - can't wait to watch you build something great.   

[javeryh]

I'm an idiot and I hate myself.  I just rounded over the front edge of the CP and the first coat of primer is drying so I started thinking about how to position the artwork exactly where I want it to go... and then it dawned on me.  I didn't print my artwork large enough to accommodate wrapping over the edges.  I have one extra inch all the way around so I will only have 1/4" of vinyl to wrap underneath the panel.  I do not think over time it will stay down.  I'm going to try though - the vinyl from gameongrafix is pretty good in that department usually but I really wish I had an extra inch or two.

 

[Laythe]

I'm an idiot and I hate myself....  I didn't print my artwork large enough to accommodate wrapping over the edges.  I have one extra inch all the way around so I will only have 1/4" of vinyl to wrap underneath the panel.  I do not think over time it will stay down.  I'm going to try though...

I made this exact mistake on Mimic. 

What I ended up doing - which has worked over the long haul so far - was to wrap it as far as I could, and then - since it's the underside where it can't be seen - extend it with aluminum ducting tape, which has a pretty fierce bond strength.  Not "duct tape" - I mean the metallic stuff, it's like thick aluminum foil with an aggressive adhesive.

You can see my tape job here - there's only about a 1/8" of vinyl artwork under my the control panel, you can see the step if you look close.  All the shiny stuff is aluminum tape to hold it down and tight.

It worked for me, anyway.

[bperkins01]

I used that aluminum tape when I decased my monitor on my LCD and mounted it to my bezel. It will work very nicely...

[jennifer]

 

[javeryh]

I made this exact mistake on Mimic. 

What I ended up doing - which has worked over the long haul so far - was to wrap it as far as I could, and then - since it's the underside where it can't be seen - extend it with aluminum ducting tape, which has a pretty fierce bond strength.  Not "duct tape" - I mean the metallic stuff, it's like thick aluminum foil with an aggressive adhesive.

You can see my tape job here - there's only about a 1/8" of vinyl artwork under my the control panel, you can see the step if you look close.  All the shiny stuff is aluminum tape to hold it down and tight.

It worked for me, anyway.

Thanks for this.

#1 - I have some of that aluminum tape on hand so I will definitely try using it.
#2 - If you made a mistake like this maybe not all is lost for me!

I used that aluminum tape when I decased my monitor on my LCD and mounted it to my bezel. It will work very nicely...

This is also good to know (for another project).  I never liked how I mounted the decased monitor in Jack Attack! and after I finish this cab I'm going back to that project next to clean up the insides, install the t-molding and hopefully getting it working like I originally envisioned (I lost a lot of steam after finding out the hard way that rare earth magnets aren't strong enough to keep the CP from moving).  I was also very frustrated with Retropie by the end there too.  Maybe console games on a bartop aren't so bad... I don't know.

You could scan it, add a few inches and have it reprinted, It is not as hard as it sounds, A good print shop probibally even do it all.

Well yeah I could just reprint it... and if I did I'd probably change some colors since it didn't come out as bright as I had hoped but it's fine.  I'll be thrilled to use what I've got and finish this project up.

[javeryh]

So... no progress recently because of my gross finger.  It hurts like a MFer - constant.  This year has been rough.  Started with slicing finger open and needing stitches. Then I tore the bottom of my foot and should have had stitches (couldn't run for 10 days) and then I pulled a hamstring in July that sidelined me for 2 weeks and now this.  Worst stretch of my life.  I'm falling apart!

 

[leapinlew]

2020 yo!

[DaOld Man]

but I really wish I had an extra inch or two.

I think we all have had that wish. 

[DaOld Man]

So... no progress recently because of my gross finger.  It hurts like a MFer - constant.  This year has been rough.  Started with slicing finger open and needing stitches. Then I tore the bottom of my foot and should have had stitches (couldn't run for 10 days) and then I pulled a hamstring in July that sidelined me for 2 weeks and now this.  Worst stretch of my life.  I'm falling apart!

 

Ouch! How did that happen? Hammer invade finger space?

[javeryh]

Ouch! How did that happen? Hammer invade finger space?

Infected cuticle.  It finally drained today but still hurts.  I can’t do anything for at least a few more days.  Also, it’s gross.

[jdbailey1206]

[javeryh]

Not dead (yet).  I finally applied the CPO and it looks good - pretty much exactly how I drew it up.  Going to drill out the buttons tomorrow (letting the glue cure for 24 hours) and then all that's left is to wire it all up and turn it on.  See you guys in 2023 for that.





Been a slog to get to this point.  The pandemic is really sucking the life out of me.  Been super unmotivated to do anything other than work (because I have to) and eat and sleep.

[morton]

Looking good! Glad to see you're still going.

I too am chasing the woodgrain dragon, and it's projects like yours that made me decide to finally do it. Many thanks for the inspiration.

[Arroyo]

Love this project.  Finish’er off Javery, and don’t forgot about little old Jack Attack

[Zebidee]

Too close to stop now!

[Jimbo]

Hey dude, looking good.  I agree with the other posters - get it finished me'lad!

You didn't fancy drilling the holes in the CP before applying the CPO?

I'd be scared shitless of damaging the CPO by drilling through it!

[javeryh]

Looking good! Glad to see you're still going.

I too am chasing the woodgrain dragon, and it's projects like yours that made me decide to finally do it. Many thanks for the inspiration.

Thanks.  The woodgrain is what makes this project for me as well.  It just looks good in a room and doesn't really stick out too much.

Love this project.  Finish’er off Javery, and don’t forgot about little old Jack Attack

Thanks Arroyo!  Been creeping along...  I have been thinking about Jack Attack too - I'm finishing that off before anything else.  I ordered a new USB encoder and I am going to redo the insides - there's too much going on with power bricks and stuff and I don't like that I have to kind of push the back door closed to stuff it all in.

Too close to stop now!

yeah... my wife was asking if I ever plan on finishing any projects I start so I really need to finish this up.  It's a problem.

Hey dude, looking good.  I agree with the other posters - get it finished me'lad!

You didn't fancy drilling the holes in the CP before applying the CPO?

I'd be scared shitless of damaging the CPO by drilling through it!

LOL - it's actually easier to drill through the art if you use a forstner bit.  You can align the artwork perfectly this way.  I was still scared shitless though!  So here are the results after drilling some holes today.  It took forever because I had to make sure the depth from the back was exact for the volcano buttons.











So... what are people's thoughts about NOT recessing the joystick?  I was planning on routing out about 1/4" of material so that the joystick would stick up through the panel a little more.  It seems very short to me.  But this creates some logistical difficulties because I would not only have to recess the joystick mounting plate, I'd also have to recess an area for the motor for the ServoStik.  What do you guys do to solve this issue?  Is there something obvious I'm missing like ordering a longer joystick shaft or something?

[UnclearHermit]

Hard to say with a view from above. Is it comfortable? I’m particularly interested because I’ve got a Servostik to mount soon in 5/8” MDF and am also wondering about need to recess. Presumably you’ve got full stick movement so it’s not like you’re recessing to sort that. So I can’t see what else matters other than how it feels. Out of interest, what size is that joystick hole drilled?

Panel looks great, by the way.

[javeryh]

Hard to say with a view from above. Is it comfortable? I’m particularly interested because I’ve got a Servostik to mount soon in 5/8” MDF and am also wondering about need to recess. Presumably you’ve got full stick movement so it’s not like you’re recessing to sort that. So I can’t see what else matters other than how it feels. Out of interest, what size is that joystick hole drilled?

Panel looks great, by the way.

Thanks.

It's not bad... but it's a little short.  Throw is not an issue - I have full range.  I drilled a 24mm hole (same bit as I used for the black button in the top right corner).  I think I know I should recess it by 1/4" but I was hoping someone had a clever solution like a longer joystick shaft or something?

I think 5/8" would be fine for you - still a little short but that extra 1/8" is a huge deal.  If I had 5/8" thick panel I'd probably just live with it.

[UnclearHermit]

There's a longer shaft available, which would give you another 10mm without routing:

https://www.ultimarc.com/arcade-controls/joystick-accessories/ultrastik-360-long-handle-shaft/

[javeryh]

There's a longer shaft available, which would give you another 10mm without routing:

https://www.ultimarc.com/arcade-controls/joystick-accessories/ultrastik-360-long-handle-shaft/

Wow thanks.  I am ordering now.  It might make the throw a little weird since the center point will be lower than usual (by only 1/4" so not that much) but I'm sure I'll get used to it.  I was looking for an excuse to order a spinner top so I guess I'll do that too - I just wish I could get one in white.   

[morton]

That's a beauty control panel. The whole thing is minimalist whilst still packing a lot of abilities. The art is perfectly balanced with it all.

This is the third time in as many days I have read mention of the longer shafts being used on thicker control panels. I was initially torn on what to do in my situation and think I may consider the same. It definitely would ensure minimal risk in damaging the work you've already done. My only question in regard to the longer shaft it... Does the stick length really affect throw feel much in games?

[javeryh]

That's a beauty control panel. The whole thing is minimalist whilst still packing a lot of abilities. The art is perfectly balanced with it all.

This is the third time in as many days I have read mention of the longer shafts being used on thicker control panels. I was initially torn on what to do in my situation and think I may consider the same. It definitely would ensure minimal risk in damaging the work you've already done. My only question in regard to the longer shaft it... Does the stick length really affect throw feel much in games?

Thanks - really appreciate the nice comments.  So far, the whole project is coming out exactly like I see it in my head...

I have never used a longer shaft on any joystick but the more I thought about it, the more it made sense to give it a shot.  I was planning on routing out 1/4" max from behind the panel.  That isn't a lot at all but I couldn't go any deeper or else the 4 screws might not hold or they might accidentally poke through the art (which would make me nuts).  So 1/4" is all of the height I'd be gaining.  That's nothing. 

The longer shaft adds 10mm or approximately 3/8".  I don't think the throw will feel all that different.  Maybe it will but I'm giving it a shot.  Worst case scenario is that I end up routing out the material but I would really have to hate it.  I ordered from Andy this morning - I just hope it gets here soon!

[javeryh]

Longer joystick has arrived!  $32 shipped from the UK.  Pricey but whatever.  I'm hoping to install it tomorrow or over the weekend.  I'm a little worried about the throw but I think it will be fine.  I'm not too picky.  To do:

1. Install joystick
2. Wire everything
3. Figure out how to attach CP to cabinet.
4. Order and install 1/4" tinted glass
5. Turn coin return into pushbutton
6. Figure out where to put volume knob from speakers
7. Final tweaks to computer (boot up, hide windows, etc.)

I'm sure there is more I'm not thinking of but this is basically the punch list.  Anyone have any recommendations for a decent glass shop that will cut to a custom size and not charge an arm and a leg?

[leapinlew]

No suggestions for online glass since I have always used a local shop. I’m curious what your local shop vs online shop research pulls up.

[wp34]

That CP looks fantastic javeryh!  The white really pops.

I'm sure there is more I'm not thinking of but this is basically the punch list.  Anyone have any recommendations for a decent glass shop that will cut to a custom size and not charge an arm and a leg?

I used onedayglass.com for my Tron cabinet.  It wasn't cheap but I'm really happy with the results.

[javeryh]

No suggestions for online glass since I have always used a local shop. I’m curious what your local shop vs online shop research pulls up.

I'll let you know.  I vaguely remember ordering some glass from eBay that was really cheap but I can't remember where and it's so long ago that it's not showing up in my order history.

That CP looks fantastic javeryh!  The white really pops.

I used onedayglass.com for my Tron cabinet.  It wasn't cheap but I'm really happy with the results.

Thanks!  I'll check that place out once I have good measurements. 

I've been installing the joystick and wiring stuff while I watch football today.  Taking me forever because I needed to make sure the joystick was dead center.  I'm down to just button/joystick wiring but I also need to figure out how to wire the LEDs in the volcano buttons.  Anyone know if I can pull enough power from the iPac2 and also where run the wires?

[javeryh]

Some progress...  I only have solid wire laying around for this, which is a little annoying but I guess as long as the connection is made it doesn’t matter.  Took me a while to get the joystick just right too.  Now I need to figure out where to pull 5V from for the LEDs in the P1 and P2 start buttons.  The PCB that the servo is wired to can accommodate 2 of them so maybe I can power the LEDs off off that?  Hmm... need to do some research.



I think I'm going to run 2 separate ground daisy chains - the joystick and buttons are on opposite sides of the iPAC2 and it's easier to not have wires crossing all over the place.  If I can get this fully wired tomorrow I should have a playable cabinet by the end of the week. 

One thing that's been bugging me is how I'm going to get the control panel attached to the cabinet without moving.  I do not want to drill through the top but there's less room underneath than I had initially thought - I was going to add some extra cocktail cabinet spring clips on the inside but I'm not sure there is enough room.  Need to think on this some more.

[javeryh]

So anyone have any idea how to wire the volcano buttons?  I got them from Arcade Shop. 



I am pretty sure the three thin prongs are NC, NO and GRD from left to right so I would connect NO and GRD like any other push button switch. 

I am also pretty sure two flat prongs attached to the rivets are for the LED but I have no idea how to wire this up.  Arcade Shop says that “Button includes a 6.8k resistor” and I do not know what that means.  In my research other similar buttons (but not exact) require 2V to power and people say that if you just hook it up to 5V source you will fry the LED.  If that is the case, what do I need to step down the voltage (assuming I can draw 5V from the iPAC2?

Surely someone around here has used one of these buttons before...

EDIT: here's a pic from the Arcade Shop site:




The stamp on it says 5A250V if that helps.

[PL1]

I am also pretty sure two flat prongs attached to the rivets are for the LED but I have no idea how to wire this up.  Arcade Shop says that “Button includes a 6.8k resistor” and I do not know what that means.  In my research other similar buttons (but not exact) require 2V to power and people say that if you just hook it up to 5V source you will fry the LED.  If that is the case, what do I need to step down the voltage (assuming I can draw 5V from the iPAC2?

What you need is a 220 Ohm (or 160 Ohm), 1/4 Watt (or 1/8 or 1/2 Watt -- smaller wattage ==> thinner leads) current limiting resistor between 5v and the LED+ terminal.

If you connect LED- to ground, it will be always-on.

If you connect LED- to an LED controller and run a program like LEDBlinky, it will blink.

The only thing I'm not certain about is if the LED+ and LED- are swapped in this diagram.
- If they are, LMK and I'll update the diagram accordingly.
- You can test this using the diode check function on your multimeter.  When the polarity is correct, the LED will light dimly.


Scott

[Arroyo]

I believe that Javery is correct and these are 2V LED’s.  At least the originals were.  I discussed building a voltage divider for the ones I used on the flight stick in my thread to bring the 5V down to 2V:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156267.msg1644624.html#msg1644624

[PL1]

I believe that Javery is correct and these are 2V LED’s.  At least the originals were.  I discussed building a voltage divider for the ones I used on the flight stick in my thread to bring the 5V down to 2V:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156267.msg1644624.html#msg1644624

The 220 ohm resistor acts like R1 and the LED acts like R2 in your voltage divider diagram.



How did I know that a 220 Ohm resistor would work for this application?

How I do it:

Wire in a 220 resistor on the line going to 5v. Crimp on a quick disconnect.
Attach the QD to the + end of the Atari button LED terminal.
Hook up the other end to ground.
Turn the machine on, see the red lit button.
No worries.

Never burned out a LED button with the resistor connected.

Scott

[javeryh]

What you need is a 220 Ohm (or 160 Ohm), 1/4 Watt (or 1/8 or 1/2 Watt -- smaller wattage ==> thinner leads) current limiting resistor between 5v and the LED+ terminal.

I believe that Javery is correct and these are 2V LED’s.  At least the originals were.  I discussed building a voltage divider for the ones I used on the flight stick in my thread to bring the 5V down to 2V:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156267.msg1644624.html#msg1644624

Thanks guys.  So if I buy THESE (100 LOL - I only need 2 max) I should be OK?

I would like to somehow pull the power from the iPAC2 - there are two trackball connections that I will not be using and there are pins labeled 5V.  Could I use those for the LEDs?



I would run a wire from iPAC2 5V pin to the resistor and then the resistor to the positive side of the volcano button LED leads.  I would run a separate wire from the negative side of the volcano button LED leads to the player 2 GND terminal on the iPAC2 (for ground).  I realize this would mean as long as there is power to the iPAC2 the LED lights will be on.  Would this work?



Also, which side of the resistor goes where?  I assume it matters how it gets connected as it will be stepping down the voltage.

Sorry if this is ridiculously basic stuff...   

[PL1]

So if I buy THESE (100 LOL - I only need 2 max) I should be OK?

They are a bit of overkill, but those will work fine.

Each LED and resistor pair are only going to draw a total of about 20 mA so that's 100mW -- around 60mW for the resistor and around 40 mW for the LED.
(Watts = V * A ==> W = 5v * 20mA ==> 100mW)

Same resistor in a 1/4 W size:
https://www.amazon.com/EDGELEC-Resistor-Tolerance-Multiple-Resistance/dp/B07QK9ZBVZ/

An assortment pack will cover many future projects as well:
https://www.amazon.com/McIgIcM-resistor-Electronics-resistors-assortment/dp/B06WRQS97C/
https://www.amazon.com/Resistors-Assortment-Tolerance-Excellently-Breadboards/dp/B07D2Z45CG/

I would like to somehow pull the power from the iPAC2 - there are two trackball connections that I will not be using and there are pins labeled 5V.  Could I use those for the LEDs?

Yes.  Those pins are designed to power the two LEDs of a trackball/spinner axis so they are perfect for this application.

I would run a wire from iPAC2 5V pin to the resistor and then the resistor to the positive side of the volcano button LED leads.  I would run a separate wire from the negative side of the volcano button LED leads to the player 2 GND terminal on the iPAC2 (for ground).  I realize this would mean as long as there is power to the iPAC2 the LED lights will be on.  Would this work?

Yes, you can either do it that way or you can connect one 5v line to the left side of both resistors in your diagram.

Also, which side of the resistor goes where?  I assume it matters how it gets connected as it will be stepping down the voltage.

There's no +/- polarity to a resistor so you can't install it backward.   

You may also want to use heat shrink like steps 1-3 here . . .



. . . and QDs like smalltownguy did here.




Scott

[javeryh]

Scott - thank you for taking the time to provide such a detailed response.  I just ordered the resistors and I'm looking forward to making this work!  I have some shrink tubing so I will also try to make it as neat as possible.  I should be able to finish the wiring this weekend.  I'd love to have this playable but Christmas!