javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy

[javeryh]

No fire hazard.  If you look at many original machines they did the same thing you just did.  You are good!

That's what I thought but no harm in asking.  My wife is paranoid that I'm going to burn the house down messing with electricity like this.

Looking good javeryh! 

Thanks!  So far so good...

Awesome javeryh.  This gives me more confidence to remove the outside of my CRT monitor for my Star Wars build and not go with a 19" 4:3 flat computer monitor.

I hope my experience can help.  I obviously knew nothing going in and I know like a tiny tiny tiny bit after about 15 hours working on this over the weekend.  And I still don't know if it is going to work because I haven't turned it on yet.  I did vomit out every thought I had on this subject as you can tell if you have read this far.  I think I put it all back together properly...

I can't see any dangling wires anywhere.  The suction cup is definitely on properly and the neck PCB seems solidly in place too.  All other wires are back in their original position except for the degaussing coil, which is in the ballpark but still a few inches from where it was originally.  When I get done with work today I need to make a quick trip to Home Depot for some zip ties to help hold the coil in place.  Then I'll double check everything one last time before trying to turn everything on.  If all goes well it will be the first time seeing both monitors on at once.  Either that or time to get a new monitor...

I know you are deeply committed to the CRT you have. Kudos for diving in.

I am posting this for other people watching.

An arcade monitor is 1000x easier to mount in a cab. They are easier to fix. They are less likely to break.

Every person I have suggested this to said they are too hard to find, and then I found one in their area within minutes of searching.

That being said, I really like your cab design and I am glad you decided to go with a CRT. There is a scary learning curve, but the rewards outweigh the frustrations.

Thanks.  I'm glad I ultimately decided to dive in.  It's something I've always wanted to learn but never had the nerve.  This hasn't scared me off of CRTs (yet) but I can totally understand what lew was saying about not taking off the case being 1000x easier.  I thought about that more than once as I was working on it.  Mounting the CRT like this doesn't seem to really add anything other than I will know what I did which is reason enough to do anything in a hobby.

Had I known, I would have tried for the arcade monitor.  Initially, I wanted a VGA cable to plug into the computer because I didn't know you could get an arcade monitor to talk to a PC easily without one.  Next time...  The metal chassis on the arcade monitors would have made my life a lot easier!

 

[Mike A]

Everybody has to start somewhere. I still have a ton to learn. I started from zero. None of this was covered in my business classes or psych classes for some reason.

[jennifer]

 

[leapinlew]

I think it looks great!

I try to be efficient and take shortcuts when I'm willing to sacrifice authenticity. Everyone is different and I've had the good fortune to re-work things as my requirements for authenticity improved. My Defender phases: 

• Built a multi-williams bartop to play Defender and other williams games. Sold it once I realized I only played Defender and I wanted better controls
• Rebuilt a Defender bartop cabinet with an authentic joystick and leaf buttons
• Swapped out the PC for a 19-n-1 and removed all games but Defender
• Added a scan line generator
• Built it out to be a cabaret sized machine <---- where I'm at today

 


There is something to be said for doing it right the first time! Hopefully I don't need to do anything else. Good job on yours. You won't have any regrets.

[jdbailey1206]

javeryh does it work?  Nothing exploded?

[javeryh]

The physics behind it are deep and somewhat theoretical, most of us will spend a lifetime trying to understand but unfortunately will only get to be happy if it works at all.

Very true.  As long as it works I don't really care how it works like most things in life.

I think it looks great!

I try to be efficient and take shortcuts when I'm willing to sacrifice authenticity. Everyone is different and I've had the good fortune to re-work things as my requirements for authenticity improved.

There is something to be said for doing it right the first time! Hopefully I don't need to do anything else. Good job on yours. You won't have any regrets.

Thanks - there were more than a few times that I was cursing myself for not being able to leave well enough alone.  But I'm glad I went through with it - at least I can cross it off the arcade bucket list.  Assuming it actually works!

javeryh does it work?  Nothing exploded?

I'll see you guys in 2022 when I have the balls to turn it on.

Actually just been jammed up with work yesterday and today.  As soon as I get a few free hours I'll be back at it.  I went out and bought some thinner zip ties to hopefully let me tie down the degaussing coil.  It's just hanging down in the cabinet right now like 12" or more from the tube because without the plastic bezel from the monitor case, there is nothing really holding it in place.

I've also started thinking about the back door.  There are 2 pieces - one fixed at the top and the other is the actual door (with vents and a lock at the top).  I have to trim both to fit but the top piece is going to be much shorter than I originally anticipated if I ever want to be able to slide the monitor out.



As you can kind of see here, this piece will hang down past the interior blocking that the monitor shelf sits on and also the curvature of the monitor makes it even worse (also check out the degaussing coil just hanging there).  Not sure how to get a good measurement for this panel.  I'm thinking about making the entire piece removable even though I plan to fill the joint at the top and paint over it.  Worst case scenario if I had to take out the monitor would be doing a little body work at that top joint when it is all said and done...

[jennifer]

 

[Mike A]

That little pooch ain't going to give you a big electrical lighting bolt...However, if you want one...*Jenn does a evil laugh

Meth...It's not just for breakfast anymore!

[javeryh]

I took some time today to get the degaussing coil as close to the tube as possible.  I just used some zip ties to hold it in place as you can kind of see in the first picture.  It is no longer flopping around on the inside... and now there's nothing stopping me from trying to fire it up other than having to move the computer I'm working on close enough to hook it up.







Now I'm trying to figure out how to attach the monitor to the rails.  I was thinking about letting gravity do its thing - I can install a sort of stop block at the end of the rails on both sides and the monitor panel would just slide in and those blocks would stop it from going any further.  But the panel itself would be floating.  Even without the block it doesn't want to slide forward (although it doesn't take much to get it to start sliding).  I could use some screws... but I don't want to unless I have to. 

[jennifer]

 

[Zebidee]

Degaussing coil doesn't even need to be attached when you turn on the monitor. The cable's not long enough? That is a bit inconvenient but there are ways around it.

Fix the monitor block from sliding about with a few wood screws

[javeryh]

I would bolt it down, Someday somebody else may own it and they may tip it backwards into the truck...Cheap insurance.

Degaussing coil doesn't even need to be attached when you turn on the monitor. The cable's not long enough? That is a bit inconvenient but there are ways around it.

Fix the monitor block from sliding about with a few wood screws

OK so you guys both think I should use some screws through the MDF panel around the monitor and into the rails?  Not gluing this block in place + gravity:





The VGA cable from the back of the monitor is plenty long but I don't feel like unhooking the computer from where it is currently set up and plugging it all in near the monitor just to have to take it all apart.  I should though.  No loose wires and the suction cup is attached (the wire is a little tight now) and in theory it is ready to go.  I'll probably do it tomorrow when I have a 2+ hour window to mess around...

[Zebidee]

Eight (2 for each corner) self-tapping wood screws, screwed in from top.

[Zebidee]

Like this!

[javeryh]

I guess I'll screw it down.  I just have wood screws though - I've seen some people use threaded inserts and a screw, which would be ideal, but I don't have any on hand.  I need to make sure the panel is in the perfect position and it's hard to get my drill perpendicular - the collar is so fat so I can't get into tight corners.

There's also the back panels to consider.  The top one is going to be smaller than I'd like if I ever need to slide the monitor out.  Oh well.  I'm hoping by this weekend the only thing left to do will be the control panel. 

Speaking of... does anyone around here still do artwork?  I don't need anything super complicated but I do want something at a high resolution and precise dimensions...  little better than my first draft.  Try not to be blown away by my insane design skills.  I'd love some comments on the CP.  Nothing set in stone but I don't want more than 3 buttons and I think the ServoStick will work nicely.

[Zebidee]

Wood screws if sufficient length will withstand an earthquake, no need for anything fancy.

Yeah I know! Putting screws in is hard because wood is right up against inside of cab. Which is why I usually pre-drill the guide holes before putting wood pieces in place, or remove them to drill the holes, and use a long-arm screwdriver to put screws in. I also use a small right-angle socketed screwdriver for some finicky work in tight spaces. It is a PITA but you’ll work it out.

You might also get away with drill bit extension/arms that allow you to be further back with the drill

[leapinlew]

Put the wood screws in and if/when you have to take it out pickup some inserts at that time.

[javeryh]

OK... I'm coming up on the last bits of the cabinet itself.  Hopefully the only thing left to do after today will be the control panel. That said, I'm having a stupidly hard time trying to glue one of the back panels in place.

The first thing I had to do was cut the edge at a 45 degree angle so that it could meet the top panel of the cabinet.  I also couldn't make this panel too long because if I ever want to get the monitor out it will need to pass under this.  I eyeballed it and determined about 2.5" would work.  In order to make the 45 degree cut, I used some double sided tape to stick it down to a board exactly perpendicular so that I could use my compound mitre saw to cut it.



This was a little tricky to line up but not too bad.  It was much harder to actually cut it because I had to go 18" and my saw can only handle about 12-13" at a time.  So I cut one side with the saw tilted 45 degrees to the right, flipped it around and then set the saw to cut 45 degrees to the left and had to line everything up perfectly to complete the cut.  It worked for the most part.

This is the result after making the cut:



So now I have to glue it in place and short of standing for 2 hours holding it in place (perfectly lined up mind you) I am not sure how to clamp/glue this.  Right now I'm waiting for some glue to dry in my garage - I made a make shift clamping jig - but I am not sure it's going to hold.



The seam looks... OK - not totally perfect but it's fine.  I'm going to fill the joint and repaint this area to make it all blend in.  The most important thing is that it is level so that the back door will fit perfectly.  Assuming I can get this glued up in the exact spot I want (perpendicular to the floor but level going across the cabinet) then I have to work out some stop blocks or something so that the back door panel can stay in place.  I am not using hinges - the back dor will be completely removable.  These are all stupid details that I never think about but always take 5x as much time.

I'm really hoping that Titebond II can set up in an hour well enough to put some clamping pressure on it... I don't want to sit around all day waiting since I actually have time to work on this today...

[javeryh]

Well this didn’t work...



Clamping pressure needs to be perpendicular to the joint and this just keeps shearing up.  I’m out of idea so I guess I’m just going to stand here like an idiot for an hour and hope it holds.

[javeryh]

Well let’s see if painters tape will work here...



I’m measuring for the back door now and making some stops out of paint sticks.  It’s raining though and I was hoping to spray paint the paint sticks...

[javeryh]

The glue is holding - there was a small seam and I decided to paint the panels again.  Looks OK.



The back door is not going to be exactly square.  I’m off by 1/16” in a few spots so I have to trim the back door panel at a slight angle on the top and bottom if I want it to be a tight fit.  What a pain.

[jdbailey1206]

The back door is not going to be exactly square.  I’m off by 1/16” in a few spots so I have to trim the back door panel at a slight angle on the top and bottom if I want it to be a tight fit.  What a pain.

Yeah.  That sucks.  I always over cut and sand down when fitting.  The good thing javeryh is that the back will be up against the wall and you'll be the only one who knows its off.

[javeryh]

The back door is not going to be exactly square.  I’m off by 1/16” in a few spots so I have to trim the back door panel at a slight angle on the top and bottom if I want it to be a tight fit.  What a pain.

Yeah.  That sucks.  I always over cut and sand down when fitting.  The good thing javeryh is that the back will be up against the wall and you'll be the only one who knows its off.

I did make the back panel longer than it needs to be so I can trim it down for an exact fit.  I'm not sure I like the removable door panel but I also know I won't like a giant hinged door either.  When I'm moving the panel in and out for measurements, I'm chipping the paint so I'll have to touch up when I'm done. I guess I won't go inside the cabinet often so it probably won't be a big deal but I also don't want to have to paint every time either!

[jdbailey1206]

I completey skipped over your control panel post the last time I read through.  I feel like you could hide the volume control on the inside of the coin door and tweak it as needed.  I installed something like this next to the opening of my coin door on the inside of my FFJR cab and was able to open my coin door and adjust it as needed.  I feel like the big volume control sitting on the CP would take away from the great vintage aesthetic you have with your cabinet/control panel.

[zestyphresh]

Also, if you're using an i-pac then they have built in shift key options for controlling the master volume.

[javeryh]

I completey skipped over your control panel post the last time I read through.  I feel like you could hide the volume control on the inside of the coin door and tweak it as needed.  I installed something like this next to the opening of my coin door on the inside of my FFJR cab and was able to open my coin door and adjust it as needed.  I feel like the big volume control sitting on the CP would take away from the great vintage aesthetic you have with your cabinet/control panel.

Definitely an option.  I'm not sure how often I'd use the volume control - I have never once used it on my DK so maybe not that often.  The CP would be pretty sparse with only the joystick, 3 action buttons and 3 much smaller admin buttons.  That's OK though... I think.  Part of me wants to jam a spinner or trackball on there since I do not currently have a working spinner or trackball in my basement.  But I also don't want to clog it up just for the sake of MORE GAMES!

Also, if you're using an i-pac then they have built in shift key options for controlling the master volume.

This is a good idea.  I don't have an iPac (yet) though.  I have one of those cheap Chinese encoders from Amazon that was like $8 and I thought since I didn't have that many controls I could get away with it.  But I don't mind spending some extra money if there is a better solution.

I've been out of commission for the last week because of old man nonsense - I exercise a lot and ended up pulling a muscle.  I couldn't even walk until yesterday.  So today I finally worked on the cab a little bit and got to cut the back door to size.  I had to sand it at least 10 times until I git a snug fit.  I also had to take 3/32" off of one side because that little top rear panel wasn't cut 100% straight.  No one will notice.  Heck, I can barely notice and I know it is there. 

I have to say though - this was a HUGE pain.  I wanted a snug fit so I had to sneak up on the line but I also chipped the hell out of my paint job in the process.  It is so bad that tomorrow I'm going to add another (light) top coat to hopefully make it look better.  I just hope the new layer of paint doesn't mess with the snug fit.  Since I decided to paint, I also took some spackle and gently filled the seam where the top panel meets that short back panel.  It was barely noticeable but with a fresh coat of paint on top it will be completely invisible.  I have spent way too much time on the back of this cabinet!

Once I paint and get the door into final position tomorrow, I'll be able to slide the monitor as far back as possible and secure it in place with some screws.  Then, I'll be able to take the final measurement of the control panel height.  My rough estimate is 6-3/4" so not too bad.  The control panel overlay is the last unknown...

[Arroyo]

I have spent way too much time on the back of this cabinet!

Oh yeah? 

You are inspiring me with your posts Javery.  I gotta get back on schedule.  Well done, keep it up!

[javeryh]

I have spent way too much time on the back of this cabinet!

Oh yeah? 

You are inspiring me with your posts Javery.  I gotta get back on schedule.  Well done, keep it up!

Ha - I want to be able to say I accomplished something during quarantine.  You need to get back to it!

I just hope the control panel doesn’t slow me down too much.  I can’t decide if I want to keep it black and white or if this is the place for a splash of color.  And I also need to figure out what controls to use!

[javeryh]

Words are boring. Here are some pics after painting and installing the back door hardware (airflow bezels and lock).

This is a finished shot of the back door.  The textured paint is super cool.  It's rough but it feels like plastic - much nicer than standard black paint, IMO.  Although, I'm starting to realize that the iPhone sucks for pics but it's all I've got soooo...



You can't see it from the first pic but I added some guide rails to the bottom that keep the panel from popping out.  Here is a close-up:



There is a third guide rail on the cabinet itself that prevents the bottom of the door panel from being pushed into the cabinet.  It also helps align everything for a tight fit in the same plane.  You can see it on top of the bottom back panel here:



And finally, after many hours, the finished rear of the cabinet. 



I'm quite pleased how this all worked out.  I cannot even tell that there is a 3/32" alignment error back there. 

Eventually I want to replace the keys with something flatter so I can push this up against the wall with the keys back there.  Next I'll be screwing the monitor in place and measuring and cutting the blank for the control panel.  Starting to feel like the end is near...

 

[PL1]

Eventually I want to replace the keys with something flatter so I can push this up against the wall with the keys back there.

Something like this keyless lock?

http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/1614/keyless-video-game-pinball-lock-7-8.htm




Scott

[jdbailey1206]

Eventually I want to replace the keys with something flatter so I can push this up against the wall with the keys back there.

Something like this keyless lock?

http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/1614/keyless-video-game-pinball-lock-7-8.htm

Scott

All sorts of fun options:

Thumb Operated
Lock Combination
Screw Operated

Show us the front bro.

[javeryh]

yeah that's what I had in mind... I definitely have to order something because the lock I have is way too big.  I cannot slide the monitor back because it is in the way!  Nothing is easy.  So for now I removed the back door and I'll figure that out later.  I really want to cut the blank for the CP so I can start to get an idea what to expect for the final look.

Here's a shot of the front with my legs showing - nothing has really changed in a while.





The "CP" that is shown is just some scrap about 1/8" thick so it doesn't represent the final look.  I am going to use a 3/4" thick piece of MDF for the CP with a rounded over front edge.  The whole thing will be wrapped in vinyl.  I cut it 6-3/4" tall but may need to scale it back to 6-1/2" or 6-1/4".  The full screen is viewable as is but I would do this to make it more proportional.  Not sure yet.

I guess I can start making a "punch list" since I am nearing the end...

• Cut CP blank
• Secure Monitor panel in place
• Design CP layout and art
• Order 1/4" tempered glass (gray)
• Order controls
• Install cleats for glass to rest on
• Cut black matte board for monitor bezel
• Install computer, wire CP and configure everything

I'm sure I'm forgetting a lot of little stuff.  I should also finally man up and check to make sure the monitor works - I still haven't done that but it's a pain to move the computer and everything...

[wp34]

Looking great javeryh!  I agree that textured paint looks great on that back door.

[Arroyo]

That paint looks really nice Javery.  Do you think if you had your pick you would choose it over the laminate?

[javeryh]

Looking great javeryh!  I agree that textured paint looks great on that back door.

That paint looks really nice Javery.  Do you think if you had your pick you would choose it over the laminate?

Thanks guys.  I really like the paint but it is very different from the smooth laminate.  I'm not sure I'd want to cover an entire cabinet in it but for the top and back it's fine.  It is super expensive ($70 for 1/2 gallon if I remember correctly) but it lasts.  It is made for speakers - if you have ever felt a guitar amp up close that is what it is like.  Very rough to the touch but it reflects light in all different directions.  It wouldn't be possible to add artwork on top but if you wanted an all black cab, it would work and look great.  You have to pre-paint before assembly though - the texture comes out way different using a brush vs. the roller.

[javeryh]

Alright... I started down the rabbit hole of learning Inkscape in order to make the control panel.  I don't know what I'm thinking.  I really like the simplicity of the Blip control panel so I am starting from there.  It's not coming out so great and nothing here is set in stone but I wanted to try something just to get moving.  Click on the pic to see the right resolution.



The background will be black and the lettering will be white and the gray won't be seen at all except for the crosses in the middle where I'd have to drill.  Start 1 and Start 2 are Atari Volcano buttons.  The others are regular Happ buttons for now (although I'm going to order 3 true-leaf buttons soon but they should be the same size).  The left most circle is for a spinner.  Not sold on it yet but I don't have a spinner anywhere in my house so I thought it would be cool.  I'd rather try for a trackball but I don't think I have the room.  The font is called "Data 70" which I think looks pretty cool and it matches the font I used on the Hyperspin theme.

I want something that pops - I'm adding splashes of red because of the volcano button LEDs and I might try adding some bold white stripes through the 3 action buttons or something just so there isn't too much black.  I'm sure I'll be posting a ton of different concepts as I work through this...

 

[javeryh]

Alright... v2 (click on the image).



I think the rings around the buttons are too thick but they were a huge pain to make so I'll probably fix that tomorrow.  I was originally going to go with white buttons on the black background but now I might go black buttons with the white buffer there.  I'm slowly getting the hang of how to do stuff but it is not intuitive to me at all. 

So is the spinner worth it?  I think my wife likes break-out games but I’m not sure it’s worth it for just that.

This layout will probably change 20 more times...

[wp34]

I like your menu a lot. The font and colors are great.  If you are going for Blip that is a great start.   

So is the spinner worth it?  I think my wife likes break-out games but I’m not sure it’s worth it for just that.

I think a spinner is nice to have.  Cameltry is a lot of fun to play with a spinner.  And like to play a few racing games on mine.  It isn't as good as a dedicated wheel of course but it scratches that itch for me.

[javeryh]

I like your menu a lot. The font and colors are great.  If you are going for Blip that is a great start.   

Thanks.  It is slowly coming together.  I have a few simple ideas that I'm going to try out today.  It's funny that my cab is an amalgamation of Blip and Cube - both designed by markc74!  I guess if you are going to rip someone off might as well be one of the best.

I think a spinner is nice to have.  Cameltry is a lot of fun to play with a spinner.  And like to play a few racing games on mine.  It isn't as good as a dedicated wheel of course but it scratches that itch for me.

Cameltry is one of those games that I've always wanted to try but never have.  The only spinner games I've ever played in the arcade are Arkanoid and Tron.  I'm going to keep it for now - seems like there are at least 5-10 games worth having, which is plenty for this cabinet.

[yamatetsu]

The 'menu' text is mostly redundant as you have that already on your screen menu. I would make that wall of text an instruction card at the bottom of the bezel as you look mostly at the screen, not at the CP. For the CP, 'just' do a simple black/white design, maybe something like this:



As for that difficult-to-create pattern around the buttons: You can just order some black and some white buttons and switch the plungers so that you get 3 black buttons with white rings. That way you can axe that pattern and save yourself some fun trying to align the buttons and the pattern.